Category Archives: Maine 2021

Norfolk – Not the same anymore!

Posted on May 17, 2021 | Comments Off

Waterside Marina – Norfolk, VA – Saturday, 5/15

The day began with a run for Denise, happy to have some place that allowed her to get in 5 miles without running out of town. She made it part of her mission to locate the Church of the Sacred Heart for mass; a possible alternative to the Basilica that we learned yesterday was not open for non-parishioners (thanks to limited seating because of Covid restrictions). She embarked on the streets of Norfolk not sure what she would find. Her adventures took her through the quaint downtown and into the Ghent neighborhood, designated as a National Historic District. She found Sacred Heart Church, found out the information she was looking for, and then headed back to the boat. Along the way back she rerouted to visit the Japanese Garden she has run past before near Freemason Harbor, and past the Nauticus (maritime museum). She returned to the marina under beautiful skies and perfect weather on the Elizabeth River.

Selfie after run – overlooking Hospital Point

After eating breakfast we then spent some time on the phone talking with family members and getting some information about areas of interest to us. From that we began planning our next two weeks itinerary. We juggled some venues because they are not good to visit on Mondays (like Cape Charles) and shuffled our schedule so we could see Denise’s family once her brother John returns from an out-of-town fishing trip. We also wanted to be someplace where we could celebrate Mark’s upcoming birthday (5/21). We made reservations at marinas further north, knowing some may have to be altered should we encounter any bad weather. Right now the next week looks pretty good and we are hoping to be able to capitalize on it. This literally took up our whole morning and we know it will have to be redone in about 3 days; we have learned that you can’t really plan that far out when travel is dependent on the weather and we are on a large body of water like the Chesapeake Bay.

After lunch we hung out around the boat. Mark tackled a few boat chores like oil and engine checks, and cleaning out the shower sump pump. Denise published the last blog update and did some other chores. We also socialized with a few of the other Loopers in the marina, and spent some time talking with the Angela and Mike; a couple we met yesterday on a 65’ Endurance Yacht (“Viscaya”) who are from Clearwater, FL and are also on their way to Maine.

During the day a boat called “Life with E’s” arrived in the slip next to ours. It was a “Regal” brand and was carrying a family of 5 kids full of energy and fun. We spent some time talking to them and learned they lived locally and make outings as a family on the boat. They took off to enjoy some of the area around Waterside and we went back to our boat chores and hanging out.

In the afternoon Dave (“Painkillers”) came over to talk to us about Maine. We had spoken with him earlier in the day and he and his wife want to also go there and wanted to pick our brain. We spent quite a bit of time sharing information and before we knew it time was up and he had to leave; we had barely scratched the surface of where to go and what to see.

Sharing Maine info with Dave “Painkillers”

We also got to witness one more wedding party; a popular thing around the water in May. This one was quite a bit different as the entire party came to the waterfront and did a big dance routine while the photographer, videographer, and us recorded it all.

Just before dinner, the family on “Life with E’s” returned to their boat and we had a chance to talk with them some more. The reason for their boat name is that all of the children have names that begin with “E” (Erich, Ethan, Eli, Ella and Eva) and we learned they range in age from 12 years to 4 months old. Alex and Sarah (mom & dad) shared a little about their family and how the kids were home-schooled. We talked for a while getting to know each other, then we went back to our mutual boats for cooking dinner on board.

Mark cooked fajitas for us and they turned out delicious. We cleaned up the galley and shortly thereafter ended up in conversation once again with our new friends on “Life with E’s”, including the oldest two boys. We learned Erich has his own YouTube channel (“Epikkids”) and that they both are very skilled about boat handling already. During this time they asked to see our boat and Denise gave them a tour. Then they wanted to show off their boat to us, so over we went. We ended talking with the whole family for the rest of the evening, and Mark even helped Alex out with some things on his VHF. It was a wonderful evening and we delighted in getting to know this really special family.

Waterside Marina – Norfolk, VA – Sunday, 5/16

Today was Sunday which meant going to church first thing. This time we took an Uber to Church of the Sacred Heart in the lovely Ghent neighborhood. After mass we walked one block north to the Harris Teeters to buy some groceries for the week. We then used Uber to take us the 2 miles back to the marina and put everything away.

The “Life with E’s” family was preparing for an outing and we stopped to chat for a while. We said good bye as we were going on a walk and not sure they would be there when we returned; they were leaving before lunch.

Then we went on a walk along the waterfront and around the park near the Nauticus. We wanted to check out a marina on the grounds of Nauticus, and near the (currently non-working) cruise terminal. However, once we saw it we decided it would not be anything we would stay at. It was very small with a narrow entry and few slips. Plus, it had no amenities. So we continued walking all around the area and the park, then through some of the downtown.

There is a place a few blocks from the Nauticus that is called the Selden Market and is a retail location housing numerous small up-and-coming entrepreneurial businesses. There were only a few of the places open including a coffee shops and small to go eatery. In under 5 minutes we walked the entire length of the place, exiting at the next block right near the library. Here the architecture was most interesting as the original part of the library is an old building but its expansion is in a very modern building that opened in 2015.

From there we continued walking back towards the marina through downtown and arrived back at the boat in time for lunch. Sadly, our “Life with E’s” family had left and other boaters started arriving into the marina.

We spent the rest of the afternoon on the boat. The sky turned from overcast to partly cloudy, then back to overcast. More new boats came into the marina and Mark talked to one couple on a Marlow (yacht) from Vero Beach. But most of the time we spent reading and catching up on home-front things.

For dinner we ordered salads and sandwiches from one of the bar-restaurants at Waterside called the Tap Room. We feel sorry for these establishments as they all have been seriously hurt and especially in this somewhat touristy area, they are struggling. In fact two of the restaurants have shut down and are not coming back. We have also noticed that the number of people at Waterside is significantly reduced and the clientele is not the same as it was two years ago. Even with the perfect weather of the last few days, there have been few people at the adult “playground” that is part of the Tap Room. It is sad to see an area that had been revitalized and doing so well, take such a down turn. We probably will not come back here on the return trip.

Tomorrow we are leaving Norfolk and heading up the Chesapeake Bay. We are headed up the western side to the town of Urbana on the Rappahannock River and will (hopefully) have good cruising conditions.

Comments Off on Norfolk – Not the same anymore!

Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Norfolk

Waterside Once Again!

Posted on May 15, 2021 | Comments Off

Waterside Marina – Norfolk, VA – Friday, 5/14

Although we thought yesterday was cold, we had no idea how could it could get. At the GBB free dock, we had no electrical connection, which meant no heat. At 2:00 in the morning Mark got up and turned on the generator so he could put on some heat as he was freezing. When Denise got up at 4:30 in the morning she was grateful for the warmth, although she had been toasty all night under the 2 blankets and a bedspread.

Although cool, it was a beautiful and peaceful morning. Denise went for a quick walk around the GBB Museum Park and grounds, and then came back to the pristine ICW for a cup of coffee.

Just before 7:00 am we watched the boat in front of us (“Cracker Jack”) leave the free dock and queue for the first hour opening of the Great Bridge Bridge.

We finished our breakfast and getting the boat ready, then left the dock just before the 8:00 opening. We made our way through to the GB Lock with 2 other power boats and a sailboat. In years past we have gone through the lock when it was so crowded we wondered if we would all fit. But, Mark reminded Denise that usually we are coming through in the afternoon (after a stopover in Coinjock) and this year we were arriving so early in the day.

In 20 minutes we were through the lock and on our way to Norfolk. In a very short distance we watched the ICW fade from residential to industrial and with only one small area of natural topography left.

We passed by the area where southbound boaters turn off for the Dismal Swamp (northbound cruisers merge with the Virginia Cut cruisers like us.

From here there are a lot of slow (no-wake) zones, and the handful of bridges (mostly railroads) that will need to be opened for us to pass successfully. Because of this, the time it will take to cover the 10 miles is somewhat unpredictable, and we have waited as much as an hour for a single one of these bridges in the past. But today, was our (mostly) lucky day. As we approached the Norfolk-Southern #7 Bridge (known for being closed for long periods of time), we noticed “Cracker Jack” was in queue, along with another sailboat. He had been in a hold position for 45 minutes waiting on the numerous railcars to clear the tracks. It was within 10 minutes of our arrival that the bridge opened allowing us and 3 other boats to make it through before it shut down again. The other two railroad bridges were open when we approached and we were able to get through them without issue.

As we approached the Norfolk Naval Shipyard, we encountered a tug pushing a barge. He was running up the middle of the channel and was going just fast enough that we could not pass him in the no-wake zone. Finally, Captain Mark was able to negotiate his way around him and cruise us safely the rest of the way into Norfolk.

We entered the Waterside Marina where we had reservations until Sunday, and docked successfully with the assistance of the marina’s dockhand “Danny”. It was a beautiful day and we enjoyed our short time on the water, but were happy to be in a full service marina with good cell and Wi-Fi signal.

We went and checked into the marina, then for a short walk around Waterside but since it was early nothing was opened. We had a chance to meet a few Loopers who were in the marina when we arrived and started the conversation about having docktails on our boat in the late afternoon.

Once back on the boat Mark got to work rinsing off the cockpit while Denise vacuumed and cleaned up the galley. We ate some lunch and then both of us got to work on some business-related work and calls. During that time, we watched several boats come into the marina, including a few Looper Boats and invited them to join us for docktails as well.

Finally, we completed the work day on our Island Office, finishing just in time for our 5:00 pm “docktails”. Unfortunately, only two of the couples could make it and we spent most of the time talking about Maine as that is where one of them is headed. The other boat is trying to find a way to salvage their Loop because it doesn’t look like Canada is going to open this summer. We had a chance to meet some new people, and as we have learned, our paths may cross again someday.

For dinner we wanted to eat a nice meal at a restaurant and had been looking for a place within walking distance of the marina. Although Waterside (the waterfront area at the marina) usually has a plethora to choose from, two of the places are shuttered, including Guy Fieri’s Smokehouse where we ate in 2019. The others did not appeal to us and so early in the day we asked the marina staff for a recommendation. He suggested “Todd Jurich’s Bistro”, located near the Nautilus.

So we walked there for our 6:30 reservation, expecting to find the place crowded. This is in a popular part of town and it was a highly-rated restaurant. The bar areas (inside and outside) were packed with people, but the restaurant was empty. We were seated in a booth that sunk Denise so far down she almost asked for a kids’ booster chair to be able to eat. Their service was great and the meal was delicious, but the ambience of the place was a huge disappointment. The music was awful (can you say hip/hop) and was not conducive to having a nice meal with good conversation. Knowing what we now know, we should have ordered the meal “to go”; the new normal for even high-end restaurants during this post-Covid time.

Once back at the marina, we stopped to talk to a few of the boaters near us. We learned they were leaving tomorrow morning and taking the ocean route to Chincoteague, before heading to Cape May, NJ. One day maybe we will take that route. But for now we still have lots more to explore on the Chesapeake and have family we hope to see while making our way north.

Comments Off on Waterside Once Again!

Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Norfolk

Adiós Albemarle Plantation!

Posted on May 14, 2021 | Comments Off

Great Bridge Bridge Free Dock – Chesapeake, VA – Thursday, 5/13

It was cold when we woke up this morning…..way too cold for a mid-May day in the South.

We were up early and off the docks by 6:30 am. We had checked the weather update when we got up to confirm what we saw last night: the wind would be at its best for us until about 9:00, then it would shift, making for chop. We wanted to be ahead of this and knew we could run close to shore if it stayed out of the north and became stronger.

Once we left the docks and secured all the lines and fenders, we headed out the narrow channel into the Albemarle Sound which was easier to do than it was coming in on Sunday.

Initially we had the generator going to keep our heat on, but as the sun came up and warmed the boat we turned it off; it ended up being a nice day on the water. Once leaving the AP channel, we headed southeast in order to get around the restricted zone of Harvey Point. This is a Department of Defense Military testing and training area, and we learned while at AP that it was where they rehearsed the actions for the takedown of Osama Bin Laden.

Once around these marks we headed in a northeastern direction and although we could have run closer to the coast to block the winds, the waves were not bad so we made a direct course for the entrance to the North River. At 8:05 we rejoined the ICW and turned due north. For the next 5 miles we were in somewhat protected waters with low lying bushes and trees, and lots of shallow open water. Soon we entered the narrow canal that took us past Veterans Memorial Park, the Coinjock Marina (where we have stayed before), and the old Midway Marina (now owned by Coinjock Marina but no improvements made).

As we entered the area of Coinjock, we noticed another Back Cove ahead of us and wondered if we would catch up to it, as it was going slower than we were. Shortly after leaving the Coinjock area and as we were entering the Currituck Sound we noticed it had come to a stop. Then we heard out his call on the vhf radio to the Coast Guard that he had run aground and was piloting the boat without crew. It was clear he was out of the channel, and here it gets very shallow. Having heard the way he conversed with the CG, we knew he was an inexperienced boater and clearly needed to take a safe boating class. We passed by him slowly and would have offered assistance if needed, but the CG gets paid to deal with such individuals and we do not.

We moved on and entered the very shallow and narrow channel of the Currituck Sound. The north wind that had brought the cold front also pushed the water to the south end of the Sound, thereby making the channel a little shallower (10 feet) than normal (12’ – 14’). There were almost no other boats on the water here and we were making great time, so we were relaxed and enjoyed the beautiful day it had become.

And at 9:30 we entered the state of Virginia and (finally) left the state of North Carolina behind us….at least until October. Then we once again were in the narrow waters of the North Landing River and now had to deal with the timing of the bridges. Each one opens only on the hour and half hour, and are spaced just far enough apart that boaters sometimes miss the opening of the subsequent bridges. For this reason we like to be in the lead since we go faster than most of the trawlers and all the sailboats. But today we got lucky and were able to pass the slower boats right after the North Landing (first) Bridge, and easily make the opening for the Centerville (second) Bridge.

Normally, we would be then pushing to make the opening of the Great Bridge Bridge that opens only on the hour to coincide with the opening of the Great Bridge Lock to its north. However, today we were not going any further. We were going to stop at the free dock near the Great Bridge Bridge (GBB). There are actually 2 free docks here; one on the south side of the GBB, and one between the GBB and the Great Bridge Lock. We chose the one on the south side near the Great Bridge Battlefield Museum and tied up to the south end of the dock. There was one other boat already there (a sailboat) and we wanted to leave space for at least 2 – 3 more boats. It was 11:30 and we had already covered 70 miles today. We could have continued on and easily made Norfolk, Hampton or other parts of the Chesapeake Bay. But, we are not in a hurry and it is still too cold for us Floridians.

After we settled the boat we ate our lunch, and then decided on an outing. We had read the reviews about the area and knew there was a Kroger grocery store on the other side of the bridge, about a mile away. We garnered the backpack and headed out to go get a few things. This required us to walk through the Memorial Park near the museum and across the GBB. Here are some pictures we took along the way:

On our way to Kroger we noticed that the three gas stations were out of gasoline. We are grateful our boat takes diesel and hopeful this issue is resolved in the next week before we need more fuel. We also saw that there are many other stores (Dollar Tree, Hallmark Cards), restaurants (Chili’s, Panera Bread, Chinese, etc.), and a laundromat in the shopping plaza near Kroger. This is a great stopover spot for any cruiser coming up the ICW and needing supplies as well as dining out options.

We returned to the boat to get some work done for our clients. It ended up being a busier than expected afternoon with phone calls. As a result we missed our opportunity of visiting the museum as they closed at 4:00 pm.

Throughout the rest of the afternoon and evening we were entertained by the boats that came up and queued for the GBB opening at the top of every hour, including the Back Cove we had seen run a ground just outside of Coinjock. We also got to see all kinds of other activities including rowers in the ICW, boats docking at Atlantic Yacht Basin (across from us), numerous Canada Geese and their chicks, and the people hanging out at the GBB Museum Park. Also two other boats came into the free dock, filling up the open spaces. We were glad we got here early.

As the sun went down the weather started to get colder and we decided not to venture back out for dinner. We had considered going to one of the restaurants we had walked passed earlier in the day, but changed our minds and ate dinner on board. We spent the rest of the evening talking on the phone with family and friends, and doing some reading.

Tomorrow we will leave and go the 20 miles to Norfolk were we will spend the weekend.

Comments Off on Adiós Albemarle Plantation!

Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Chesapeake, Great Bridge Bridge

Groundhog Day at AP!

Posted on May 13, 2021 | Comments Off

Albemarle Plantation – Hertford, NC – Wednesday, 5/12

There was no sun to be seen this morning as we woke up; it was cold and very cloudy. There was some light rain forecasted in the morning and the high temperature for the day was as expected at 58°. We can honestly say the weatherman got it 100% right today. And so here it is we stay at the AP one more day.

Right after breakfast, Mark headed to the Yacht Club to do work. Denise chose to stay on the boat for some personal time and to finish up the last blog. Once that was published, there were some business calls to make including returning a call to a past Orlando-based client who has a new project; this always seems to happen when we leave town on our Island Office.

At lunchtime Mark came back to the boat for his usual turkey sandwich and reported that he had company in the Yacht Club in the morning. There were several people who were participating in NOAA research regarding the quality of the water in the sound and creek. More specifically they were taking water samples and checking for nitrogen content in the water, to assess the threat of algae bloom. They were all volunteers, but one was a former NOAA research scientist. After they had taken samples (yes out in the rain), they came back to the Yacht Club and put the samples under their microscopes and recorded all things scientific, before submitting them to NOAA. Fortunately, all was good with no sign of the algae.

While Mark was doing this, Denise finished a few boat chores, processed many low-important emails out of her “in-basket”, and even did some reading. She also made reservations at the Clubhouse for dinner, and confirmed their casual dress code requirement.

All day long there was constant activity down our dock, as it leads to the fuel dock. With the shortage of gasoline right now, everyone was taking their 5-gallon cans in their golf carts down to the fuel dock to get them filled up. It appears that many people need the gas just to get out of the Plantation and get them to the closest gas station that may have fuel. JE (Dockmaster) said he got a better workout than the gym because he had to lift so many containers; he sold at least 200 gallons of gasoline, in 5-gallon increments.

Mark arrived back at the boat around 4:00 pm when most of the rain had subsided. There was still a slight drizzle, but it was intermittent and looked like it was finally going to clear up. By the time we headed to dinner (at 6:15) it had pretty much stopped. It was a good thing as the golf cart has no side curtains.

We arrived at the Clubhouse for dinner and found it lightly filled, but not empty. During our delicious meal of crab cakes (Denise) and Shrimp (Mark), another two couples also came in. But clearly there was room for more. Mimi (see yesterday’s post) had told us that the big night was on Thursday’s when they have Taco Thursdays. Hopefully for the financial benefit of the club this is true as there is no way they could make money with the light turnout we saw.

After dinner we immediately drove back to the boat, freezing to death the whole way, and barely making it back to capture our last sunset in AP.

Tomorrow we intend to leave AP, but only if the weather forecast holds. We will confirm when we get up early as we are looking for a 6:30 am departure. We have about 90 minutes on the Albemarle Sound before turning north (yes finally again) up the North River towards Virginia, and that should give us time before the changing wind direction creates an uncomfortable chop on the AS.

Comments Off on Groundhog Day at AP!

Posted in Maine 2021

Another Day on the Plantation!

Posted on May 12, 2021 | Comments Off

Albemarle Plantation – Hertford, NC – Tuesday, 5/11

This morning was very calm and there was almost no wind, which was refreshing. Throughout most of the night it rained intermittently, getting everything outside was wet, including our golf cart. And with the dampness came another attack of midges on the cockpit of our boat.

As predicted, the temperature dropped into the low 50’s making it a perfect morning for Denise to get in a run. With all the residential streets, it was easy to find a safe place to run without going on any of the golf paths as they are off limits to runners and walkers after 7:30 am.

She did see more of the beautiful homes and landscaping in this area, including one house that looked exactly like her sister’s old Killearn house in Tallahassee.

After Denise’s run, our showers and breakfast, we went up to the Dockside café and threw in another load of laundry. Mark also wanted to check out the Yacht Club building to see if it would again be available today. But there was a Yacht Club Board meeting scheduled, so that would not be an option for at least this morning. Off we went back to the boat to take care of a few work emails and other business-related affairs.

Denise went back to pick up the clothes from the dryer and met one of the yacht club members who informed her that on Tuesdays they have sailboat races in the early afternoon and if interested he could find someone who would take us on their boat if we wanted. Once back on the boat she told Mark about the races, but he said he was not interested and he had work to do. It also didn’t help that it was very cloudy, overcast and looked like it was going to rain.

Still frustrated with the slow internet in the marina, we decided to go exploring and see if the library they have at the pool might have better access. The pool is about a half a mile from the marina and overlooks the Albemarle Sound, so we took the golf cart over there to see what we could find. Once there we were surprised to see a very well stocked library; not the typical book exchange found in many marinas. Unfortunately, we also discovered there was no internet service (and poor cell service) at the pool area as well.

Across the hall from the library is a game room, and it was there that we met “Mimi”. She and several other women usually have a prayer group there every Tuesday, but for some reason today she was the only one who showed up. We ended up talking to her for quite a while and discovered she and her prayer group all attend St. Anne’s Catholic Church in Edenton. We mentioned about the two women we had met at the Dockside Café on Sunday night, and wondered if they were her prayer group members, but we could not remember their names. We went on to talk with her and learn about her life, coming to AP from New York, and how her husband would be on the race committee boat for today’s races. She was very gracious offering a ride to the store, and invited us to stop by her house if we needed anything.

We returned from our outing resigned that it would be a day of working on the boat, and we were ok with that. Around lunch time we noticed a lot of people heading down to the marina (in golf carts of course) and getting on their boats. For the most part they were all sailors, but the owner (Charlie) of the power boat next to ours was getting ready to go out as well. Come to find out he was the race committee boat and soon filled with a handful of people to assist in the race duties. Just before noon they left, trailing the other boats that had left much earlier.

We sat down and ate our lunch, then decided to go on an outing in the golf cart. We headed to the golf pro shop as we would like to buy something with the AP logo on it. The shirts for sale in the Dockside Café were just basic generic t-shirts and we were looking for something a little nicer. We did find some at the pro shop, but they all either had the golf logo on them or no logo at all. Slightly disappointed, we left the pro shop and cruised around the Clubhouse property; here there is a beautiful view that overlooks the AS.

We headed back to the boat and Denise started working on the blog for the day. Eventually the sailors and race committee boat came back. We inquired which of the occupants was Mimi’s husband and it was exactly who we guessed it might be. Funny! We exchanged pleasantries and small talk and then they all left to go participate in the usual post-race celebrations at the Yacht Club/Dockside Café.

We spent the rest of the afternoon and evening on the boat. Denise made chicken enchiladas for dinner and Mark did a few minor repairs, hopefully fixing the small leak in the front windshield wiper. The skies cleared in the evening for the first time in days and we were able to capture this wonderful sunset.

Here are some other pictures taken from our adventures around the Albemarle Plantation:

Comments Off on Another Day on the Plantation!

Posted in Maine 2021

Awesome Albemarle Plantation!

Posted on May 11, 2021 | Comments Off

Albemarle Plantation – Hertford, NC – Sunday, 5/9

Last night was a beautiful sunset and calm remained throughout the night and into the morning around Edenton Bay. Our new friends Ann & Steve (“Hallelujah”) had told us they would be leaving early as they had a long way to go (past Elizabeth City) and travel slower than we do. So it was no surprise that they were pulling out at 7:00 am and Denise went out to say good-bye. We hope to see them again up on the Chesapeake Bay, or some other time cruising.

Once they left, Denise went for a short walk around the marina. For the first time in 2 days she had a chance to go to the restored Roanoke River Lighthouse without anyone else being there.

We knew the wind would be picking up as the morning went on, however our journey today was going to be short; it is only 20 miles to the Albemarle Plantation (AP), our next stop on the Albemarle Loop. Since this should take only about an hour and the marina there does not open until 9:00 am, Captain Mark was in no hurry to get underway.

Finally, just after 8:00 we left the town of Edenton and headed out into the bay. It was mostly calm, but we had noticed the wind had actually picked up a little in the last hour. We turned into the Albemarle Sound (AS) and headed east, with the wind and waves on our nose. The forecast called for 1 foot waves, but we noticed they were already 1 to 2 feet and were thankful that we didn’t have far to go. By the time we got to the Albemarle Sound Bridge, we were seeing waves of 2 feet consistently and Denise was wishing we would have left at 7:00 with “Hallelujah”. After all we could have tied up to the fuel dock at AP if we arrived before they opened; we were going there anyway.

Once we got through the AS Bridge we tried to head directly to the entrance of the Yeopim Creek, but that put the waves on the side of the boat, causing a rolling action. This was most uncomfortable and so we headed in a slightly more eastern direction hoping the piece of land that jets out into the Sound at Harvey Point would help block the waves. However, it was too far off and so we had to slow the boat down a bit. We were seeing some waves as big as 3 feet before we could actually make a left turn into the creek and the very narrow channel. The Captain did an awesome job of driving through this slim entrance without hitting either mark, all the while getting pummeled by waves which wanted to take the boat in a different direction. We were very happy when we arrived at the fuel dock and we were greeted by JE Darnell, the Dockmaster. Here we filled up our tank with the cheapest diesel around, and pumped out our holding tank before moving to our slip.

All the while this was going on this morning, Denise was in contact with Karen, new friends on “Island Girl” whom we met in Beaufort, NC. They were leaving the AP and were trying to decide which route to take north: Dismal Swamp or Virginia Cut. Their biggest concern was Monday’s weather if they took the VA cut as you have to cross Currituck Sound; another large and shallow body of water that causes big choppy waves. During the text messages back and forth they reported getting rocked by significant waves and chop, and they were further east than we were, not having to deal with the stack up as the waves build heading west across the Sound. We were grateful we were now in port and not trying to go all the way to the North River (another 2 hours).

Once we settled the boat, JE (Dockmaster) showed us the golf cart we get to use while here. He then gave us a short tour of where things were located (restrooms, laundry, ice machine, barbeque grill, etc.). He also gave us a welcome packet that included the 2021 Albemarle Loop Brochure (we had an outdated one), a map of the area, menu for the dockside restaurant, discount card, disposable wet wipes, a travel kit, and other brochures about things to do in the area. We truly felt welcome! We then took the cart and drove around to some of the key places in the Plantation so we could get our bearings.

The AP is a large development area that has single family homes, town homes, condominiums and a golf course that runs throughout. In many ways it reminds us of the Deercreek Country Club where we lived when in Jacksonville, or Killearn Estates in Tallahassee where Denise’s sister lived.

We drove by the pool area and Clubhouse, both of which overlook the Albemarle Sound. There are lots of established trees and nicely landscaped areas, as well as natural habitats for wildlife, especially various types of birds.

Also near the marina is the Dockside Café, a casual eating establishment with a wood fire oven, and has indoor and outdoor dining on either the deck or screened porch. Next door is the Osprey Yacht Club, a small but nicely decorated club with comfortable seating and a small kitchen area.

After our quick tour of this small part of the grounds, we went back to the boat to do a few chores. The most important one was trying to figure out the source of dripping water from the front windshield. Although not a big leak, it is a nuisance and we need to figure it out sooner rather than later. After about 10 minutes we were able to deduce it is coming from the windshield wiper washer and Mark felt it was easily fixed. It is now on his “honey-do” list.

After lunch Mark washed the boat which was very filthy. This was the first real chance he has had to remove the salt and remaining bugs since before Belhaven. Denise worked on cataloging pictures and started working on the last blog, but quickly got frustrated with the slow internet. Karen on “Island Girl” had warned us about this, but usually we can use our hotspot if a marina does not have a good Wi-Fi signal. However, the AP is in a pretty remote part of NC and even the AT&T cell signal is not strong here.

We also made several short and intermittent cell calls to family and friends. It was Mother’s Day and although we talk to Mark’s mom almost every day, we wanted to let her know we love her, appreciate her, and miss her. Denise did find the picnic table by the fuel dock was a good location to talk, but it was in the sun and she got a bit of a sunburn while chatting with her sister. Eventually she moved to sit in the golf cart on the dock near the boat so she could have some shade. While sitting there she was approached by a couple in a golf cart who looked vaguely familiar. They saw our boat, recognized us, and re-introduced themselves: Sherri & “Sax” (“Red Eagle”).

We first met Sherri & Sax in Norfolk in 2015 during our Great Loop adventure, then saw them again in Green Turtle Bay, KY that fall. Sherri and Denise were doing laundry together then, but as this location was a very popular spot on the Loop, and we met many people the week we were there, she forgot their first encounter. Fast forward to 2017 when we were at White House Cove Marina in Poquoson, VA, we saw their boat in the covered docks, but did not see them. In 2019 when we did the Down East Loop we saw their frequent Active Captain reviews in places along the way as they had done it (DE Loop) the prior year. On our return south down the Chesapeake we again stayed in Poquoson and saw their boat, but this time we left a note on it hoping to connect while we were there. Unfortunately, we missed them and had lost touch…..until today. And here they were on a short Albemarle Loop trip themselves, staying on “B” dock (we are on “C”). It never ceases to amaze us how small the cruising community really is.

We chatted awhile and discussed plans, including a must-stay in Edenton and how they have guests arriving tomorrow to join them for a few days. We had decided to get a pizza at the Dockside Café and asked if they wanted to join us for dinner there, but they had eaten there for lunch and declined. We agreed to touch base tomorrow, depending on weather and discuss our future travel plans then.

The wind began picking up and now shifted from the southwest; this was the worst possible exposure for us as it meant coming right up the Yeopim Creek, rocking all the boats around us. Our only salvation was that there was a very large Nordhavn yacht that was blocking the majority of the wind for us. However, the waves and churned up water still made it quite bouncy.

We took the cart to the Dockside café and ordered pizza for dinner. But this small café is growing in popularity and they were getting more orders (pick-up) and dine-in then they could handle. We had to wait a good 45 minutes for our meal and but it was good and we were not in a hurry to get back to the bouncy boat. While we were waiting, two women approached us to say hello. They had seen us in Edenton on Saturday night at St. Anne’s Catholic Church and they wanted to welcome us to the Plantation. They were very friendly and we chatted for a bit before our dinner arrived. Afterwards, we headed back to the boat with leftovers in the smallest possible container; it is not easy to do this with pizza but we were successful.

Once back on the boat Mark added another line to keep the boat off the dock; the winds were really blowing and we were so thankful we were in protected waters. It continued to blow strong all night long and we even got a little rain. However, the big thunderstorms are due tomorrow afternoon when the temperature will once again go from the low 70’s at night, to back down to the low 50’s – all within 24 hours.

Albemarle Plantation – Hertford, NC – Monday, 5/10

There was the slight pitter patter of rain on the hatch in our main stateroom this morning, so there was no hurry to get out of bed. It did not last, so Denise was up and working on emails and reading things she had set aside yesterday when things got busy. The day stayed mostly overcast with some areas of the sky clearing for brief periods of time. It was warm and muggy with a high 77° expected, and enough humidity to make Denise’s hair curl. This brought out the “midges” who love to make a mess of the boat. Fortunately, they were not as bad as in Belhaven, but they still made a mess. When they find their way inside the boat (almost impossible to avoid as we come and go), Mark breaks out the vacuum to kill them. If we try to squish them they leave a stain that is hard to get out.

After breakfast we saw “Raleigh”, an assistant dockmaster who was covering for JE today. We mentioned about our difficulty getting good internet and cell service where we were. Being the customer-service oriented person, he immediately got on it as best as he could. Meanwhile he gave Mark access to the Osprey Yacht Club room where he was able to get a good connection and make phone calls. This was a very nice thing as Mark had a lot of work to do and he was busy all day.

In the morning Denise went on an adventure in the golf cart. We needed milk and as there are no markets on the property she thought she would venture to the Dollar General (DG) located not far from the main entrance of the AP. According to Google, it was only 1.1 miles away by car, and with the golf cart she could take a few short cuts. But, we are not allowed off-property with the carts. We were told that the Dollar General was directly across from the “construction entrance”, and if she could find her way to it, she could leave the cart, walk across the street and get some milk there. And that is precisely what she planned to do.

With the Plantation map in hand she set out in the golf cart. Soon she realized that the map had only the names of the different housing sections of the Plantation, and no street names. But, with her keen sense of direction she was able to find her way all the way through to “Plantation Estates” where the road was for the construction entrance. However, once arriving she realized there was no way this was going to work. There was a gate with a chain and lock, and the road was gravel. There was no way to take the cart down it, even if there was no gate. Denise contemplated leaving the cart and walking it, but the threatening rain and the fact that milk may get warm made her nix the whole idea. She drove around a bit to see the new “estate” houses under construction, and then returned to boat. Right after she told Mark about her adventure, he ran into Raleigh (Asst. Dockmaster) and told him about us wanting to get some milk. It just so happens his wife was headed to DG and agreed to pick up a half-gallon for us. Here are some pictures from her adventures around the AP:

While Mark was still working in the yacht club, Denise made a big salad that would last for a few days’ lunches. She also completed two loads of laundry, and did some picture cataloging in prep for writing this blog. During that time Raleigh showed up with the milk and refused to take any payment for it. Now this is real southern hospitality!

In the evening we were invited aboard “Red Eagle” to have drinks with Sherri & Sax, as they had guests on board who had arrived earlier in the day. We spent quite a bit of time talking with them about the airlines (Sax is a retired American Airlines pilot), about our mutual cruise experiences, and about their living in Virginia. We also had a chance to meet Sharon & Dwight, friends of theirs since the days when their kids grew up together. We spent some time with them (and yes, we forgot to take pictures), then went back to the boat for a dinner of leftovers (steak and pizza). We also were able to use our hotspot and stream a movie (barely) while working on this blog.

We also discussed our plans for leaving, or staying here a few more days. We are in no hurry and we really want to take a few days somewhere to get caught up on work items. Since the amenities here are so nice and the people are so friendly, we decided this was the place to hang out. It also helps that the dockage rate is free (we pay only a daily rate for electric), the laundry and ice are free, the golf cart rate is only $25 for the whole stay, and they have two good restaurants to visit. There are far worse and more expensive places to get stuck!

Comments Off on Awesome Albemarle Plantation!

Posted in Maine 2021

Enjoying Edenton!

Posted on May 9, 2021 | Comments Off

**Route from Alligator River Marina to Edenton**, NC

Edenton, NC – Friday, 5/7

In the morning we left Alligator River marina after all the other boats had left. Several were headed north either via the Dismal Swamp or the Virginia cut, and one headed South to Florida; yes we thought he was going in the wrong direction too. But we were headed west on the Albemarle Sound to the town of Edenton and were hopeful for calmer seas as we headed that way.

Once we left the Alligator River and headed onto the Sound we had to turn into the waves and wind. It was a bit choppy and the waves were splashing over the bow, but it was not too bad. Eventually we were able to turn to a more westerly direction and the wind and waves ended up behind us. This made it perfectly comfortable and Denise was able to relax more. There were almost no other boats on the water and the coastline on both sides of the Sound is mostly rural, with nice homes interspersed along the way. The only real hazard out here were the numerous crab pots that are so prevalent on the Sound. But Captain Mark did a good job of navigating around them all.

Eventually we came to the Albemarle Sound Bridge, the only roadway that cuts across the 50+-mile long Albemarle Sound. We could see it for miles, where first it looked like a structure on an island. But as we got closer the ends that connected it to land became more visible and it wasn’t long before we went under its center arch.

Shortly thereafter, we turned into the Edenton Bay and headed towards the town of Edenton. There are nice homes along the eastern shore of the bay, and as we approached the town breakwater we could see the Roanoke Lighthouse museum that is near the entrance. We entered the breakwater and slowly cruised to our preassigned slip; it was easy to find as the slips are clearly marked and there were no other boats in the marina. The Dockmaster informed us that they are not permitted to assist in the docking and tie-up, but for us to go to the office whenever we were ready to check in.

Once we got the boat settled and power hooked up, we ate lunch. We figured if it was our lunch time, it probably would be for the city dockmaster as well. Afterwards we started to walk up to the dockmaster’s office, but he met us at the foot of the dock, near the park that overlooks the marina. He was in a golf cart and was patrolling the park grounds. He had a form on a clipboard and asked us to fill it out right there, which we did. But when Mark mentioned that we were doing the Albemarle Loop and requested the restroom codes, he said we would have to go to back to the office. So we followed him the 100+ yards to the facilities building located by the playground; this also houses the public as well as the security-controlled restrooms for marina guests.

Due to the China Flu, the office was off-limits to us, so Dockmaster “Valentine” met us outside and finished the check in process, including providing the restroom code. We chatted with him for a bit and learned that this is his “retirement” job. He has had several jobs over the years (some at the same time), including serving for 20 years as a state prison guard, and another 20 years as an NCAA Division 2 football official. He also brought us a gift bag (courtesy of the town) with a town map, historic information brochures, and a few goodies. Not bad for a marina who charges nothing for the first 2 night’s dockage and we only had to pay for the power at $3 per day.

After checking in, we went back to the boat to get some work done (it was still a workday), and just in the nick of time. It began to rain but it didn’t last long. Denise did some research about what to do during our stay, and discovered that this week was “National Tourism Week” (who knew?) and the town had a slew of activities planned for visitors over the weekend. Included in this is that most all of the historic sites, tours, and museums would be open at no charge.

Mark decided to take a nap, and it was while he was napping that another boat came in and Denise went to assist with the tie-up. She introduced herself to Ann and Steve (“Hallelujah”), who are from Colorado and are doing the Great Loop. They started their Loop adventure from Ft. Myers. But today they came from the town of Columbia as they are also doing the Albemarle Loop, which they started in Manteo near the Outer Banks. Denise shared some information with them about where to go to check in, and we agreed to get caught up later.

When Mark woke up, Denise mentioned about the town’s weekend activities and the desire to take the 1-hour trolley tour around the historic area. So she went to the Welcome Center which is located across the parking lot from the marina in the historic Penelope Barker House. Here she made reservations for the trolley for tomorrow, and got a brief tour from the very nice docent. She learned about Penelope Barker (a strong woman who outlasted 3 husbands and most of her children), and who led the Edenton Tea Party, which became the first political activity by women in America. You can learn more about her here.

While Denise was getting a tour of the house Mark sent her a text message that a big storm was approaching in less than 10 minutes. So she finished up in the Barker house and made her way back to the boat. We could see the storm coming across the Bay and hunkered down for the inevitable rain and wind. Fortunately, it didn’t last long, but was long enough to keep us from having “docktails” with Ann and Steve.

Once the rain let up, we walked to dinner at one of three local restaurants on Broad Street; the main street in the historic section of Edenton. After doing reconnaissance on the menus of each, we chose “Bistro 309” and felt fortunate to get a table without a wait. The food was good and the place filled up right after we arrived. But it was clear that they too are suffering from a shortage of workers like every small business we are seeing on this trip. It appears that no one wants to work when they get a bigger check from the government and can sit home and do nothing. We waited a long time for Mark’s side salad, and our appetizer never showed up until after we had received our entrées. Nevertheless, when we left there was a line waiting to get in, and overall we were pleased with our choice.

Back at the boat, we made some chocolate chip cookies and watched a little TV before going to bed.

Edenton, NC – Saturday, 5/8

Today was a very fun day! For Denise it started with a run through town around all the historic homes and sites, including many which have been here since the mid-to-late 1700’s. Here are some pictures from her run:

When Denise got back to the boat, Mark was just waking up, so we ate some breakfast and discussed our plans for the day. We had also considered dinner reservations and were going to ask Ann and Steve to join us. But, our first order of business was to go to the Farmer’s Market. It just so happens that Ann and Steve were headed there too, so we walked up through town together, allowing us a chance to get to know each other a bit. We learned that they both came from manufacturing backgrounds and actually could understand what it is that we do.

Once we arrived at the farmer’s market, we could see (and did) everything in about 15 minutes. But this is the first time we have been to one where they were actually selling baby chickens. There were also a few baby goats, but they were not for sale; they were here to amuse the young children. Denise bought some Kale lettuce, and then we all walked back to the marina.

As we walked, we discussed our thoughts about dining together in the evening. Ann mentioned they were going to a barbeque place they had heard about for lunch, and probably would not be hungry for dinner afterwards. They invited us to join them for lunch, but mentioned it was over a mile away on the outskirts of town and they would be riding their bikes. As we don’t have bikes with us, this meant a hefty walk. But at the mention of barbeque the Captain was hooked and agreed to the hike. Our only afternoon obligation was that we had to be back by 1:30 pm as we had a reservation for the trolley tour at that time. We made plans to meet at 11:30 at the Old Colony Smokehouse.

So at 11:00 we set out from the marina to meet our new friends at the Old Colony Smokehouse. Along the way we passed by some small business, a small residential area, and a large farm before coming to a small boat marina where the restaurant was located.

We arrived at 11:30 just as Ann and Steve pulled up in their bicycles. We got in line, which was already out the door, but it seemed to move quickly. While in line we asked the guy in front of us for what to order. “Everett”, was a regular and gave us some suggestions. We ended up conversing about where we were from, and where he was from. Come to find out he had lived in FL and flew planes as a crop duster for a living. But he has his own plane and had just come back from flying a special person from Florida to Virginia; that person was General Michael Flynn. Needless to say we had lots to talk about. He was very kind and had a very pleasant demeanor; a real southern gentleman. Without realizing it we had been waiting in line for nearly 30 minutes. And it was worth the wait as it was delicious.

Here is the story about this place that we learned while experiencing it:
It is owned by Elizabeth and Adam Hughes and it is all about good old southern cooking with a twist. Adam is a Food Network’s CHOPPED! Champion, and international multi-award winning “Pitmaster”. They open at 11:00 am every day except Sunday & Monday, and they stay open until the food is gone (in essence). People come from miles to eat here, it is that good! Check out their website here and stop in if you are in the area. You will love it and we did too!

Then we walked all the way back to the marina, arriving in time to catch our reserved 1:30 trolley tour. This was a terrific tour that lasted around 1 hour and gave us the history and fun-facts of Edenton and many of the historic homes along the route. The most interesting part of all these homes is that real people renovate and live in them. It is quite fun to see a basketball hoop in the driveway of a home that has a plaque that tells you it was established in the 1700 or 1800’s.

After our trolley tour we went to do a little shopping in the downtown area. First to the hardware store where we purchased nothing, then to the outfitters store, where we also purchased nothing. Finally, we went to the used book store where Denise bought a Nicholas Spark book “The Rescue” as she learned the setting for this novel takes place in Edenton. This will be added to the other pile of books she has on the boat, waiting for her attention. After shopping for a bit, we came back to the boat where Mark took a nap and Denise read her emails.

After shopping for a bit, we came back to the boat where Mark took a nap and Denise read her emails. Then it was time for church, so back up Broad Street we went for the 5:00 pm mass at St. Anne’s. Unfortunately, we had to attend mass in the hall instead of the historic church as they had had an electrical issue in the church and were not able to have mass in it until it gets resolved (sometime next week). The church community was very welcoming and we enjoyed the half-mile walk up to the church and back to the marina.

After mass we went back to the boat and looked at the afternoon weather updates. It still looked good for our departure to Albemarle Plantation (approximately 20 miles) tomorrow. We know we will have to be there at least 2 days due to another weather front, but the latest forecast looks more favorable to possibly leave on Tuesday and head to Virginia. We will know more in the next 24 hours.

In the evening we ate a light dinner of leftover (fried) chicken pieces and watched a wedding couple come to the marina to take photos at sunset. We too captured a great sunset over the Edenton Bay; what a great way to end our stay in this wonderful town.

Here are some other pictures of scenes around this town that is a living museum and known as the “Prettiest Small Town in the South”…..and we can agree!

Comments Off on Enjoying Edenton!

Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Edenton

Altered plans for the Albemarle!

Posted on May 7, 2021 | Comments Off

Alligator River Marina – ICW, NC – Thursday, 5/6

During the night it rained quite a bit, and the wind was blowing the boat all around. Since there was no longer any boat in front of us on the dock, there was nothing to block the waves which slammed against the hull making it very loud. At one point this woke us both up and Denise moved to the main salon in order to (finally) get some sleep. When Denise got up at dawn, she awoke to much cooler weather. The previous few days had temperatures in the high 80’s and it was really humid. But today, it was back in the mid-50’s and was a welcome relief. Unfortunately, the boat still had a bunch of bugs all over the cockpit, but there was far fewer than in the previous few days

Denise got a chance to get in a run and chose the residential section of town. Here she passed by some beautiful homes; some new, some older and restored, and some just old!

She also ran down towards the River Forrest Marina and Manor house; a colonial inn that entertained celebrities and the rich in its day. Recently it was restored to how it was in its heyday, and serves as an inn, marina, and a wedding venue as well as for other activities.

Our plans were to leave today and we had decided a later departure was better than early so we could get to the Albemarle Sound around noon when the wind was supposed to subside for a few hours. This should give us time to go west and into the town of Columbia, NC. Since Mark was ready to leave shortly after 9:00, we pulled away from the dock and headed out of the marina a bit earlier than planned. It was breezy on the Pungo River as we passed the breakwater and said good-bye to the town of Belhaven.

We made our way back to the ICW and had smooth cruising for several miles without issue on the Pungo River. We passed a few of the boats that had left the marina ahead of us, including friends on “Ginger Gale”. Shortly thereafter the ICW enters the Pungo Canal. Here is a little bit of information about this area of the ICW:

The Pungo River is a river in eastern North Carolina, which originally began in the Great Dismal Swamp in Washington County, North Carolina; the upper part of the river has since been supplanted by the Pungo River Canal. The Pungo River Canal is a 21-mile canal that connects the Pungo River with the Alligator River to its east. It was dug in the 1950s to improve drainage of local farmland. The river flows southeast and forms part of the boundary between Beaufort County and Hyde County. The river then widens dramatically, turns west, and flows past Belhaven, North Carolina before joining the Pamlico River near Pamlico Sound.

We had few boats or docks to pass along this canal area, so we were able to maintain a good speed through this remote area and make good time. Once through the Pungo Canal (also called the Pungo-Alligator Canal) we entered the Alligator River where the north wind was blowing enough to cause whitecaps on the short 1’- 2’ waves. It was bumpy but tolerable. But, we knew it would be worse once we got out onto the Albemarle Sound, which was at least 45 minutes away. About half-way through the Alligator River, we decided it was just not going to be a good day on the Albemarle, even though we would be going west until the Scuppermong River where Columbia was; a distance of less than 20 miles. Instead we called the Alligator Marina located just before the Albemarle Sound, to see if they could take us for the night. Thankfully, they could, so we adjusted our itinerary and pulled in there for the night.

As we went under the Alligator River Bridge the wind was whipping on our nose and when we turned into the channel to take us to the marina. The winds and waves were now abeam and they were pushing us to the left (towards the bridge) and outside the channel. Since there are rocks that make up the breakwater entrance into the marina, this takes a bit of concentration, but Capt. Mark did a great job and kept the boat from crashing into the rocks. Denise waited inside to prepare the boat for docking until after we were through the breakwater, as it wasn’t worth the risk of a wave knocking her down, or worse – overboard.

Once we had the boat docked and settled, we went to the marina office (the gas station) to check in.

The Alligator River Marina is really like an outpost in the days of the Wild West; people only stop here on their way to and/or from somewhere else. The good news is that this “outpost” is undergoing some nice improvements. They are in the process of rebuilding the boardwalk around the entire marina, adding a walkway where previously you were forced into the gravel road or grass. There are amenities (laundry, restrooms, cruiser’s lounge, fresh water, etc.) which make it a good stopover before going out or coming from the Albemarle. But there is nothing else here. Road travelers stop at the gas station because it is on the main highway to the Outer Banks, so it has the requisite souvenirs and touristy t-shirts. But the cruiser’s all know it as a safe haven, and for their famous fried chicken in the deli.

In the afternoon, we had work to do and Mark had a scheduled conference call. Denise also started work on the previous blog. We talked with a few other cruisers who were in the marina, two of whom had tried to cross the Albemarle earlier, but came back because it was too rough. It seemed like we made the correct decision.

And then the wind died down as planned, albeit 3 hours later than originally forecasted. This had us doubting ourselves for an early departure from Belhaven and for too early an arrival to the Albemarle. It was now flat out there and we could have made it to Columbia. We had been tracking our friends Evelyn & Clark (“Sunset Delight”) who had been hours behind us, hoping to eventually connect with them. Using Nebo (a marine tracking app) we saw that they were now passing us and heading out into the Albemarle. Denise sent them a text and they reported back over the course of the next hour that it was flat and calm. Oh well!

Since we were here, we had to indulge in the famous fried chicken dinner, which was good but not as good as it used to be when the previous owners of the marina cooked it. We also both agreed that the fried chicken at Publix was still much better!

After dinner we talked with family members, then completed and published the latest blog. We also looked at the weather for tomorrow and for the next coming days and altered our travel plans one more time. We will have maybe 2 good days of the next 5 to travel the Albemarle, so we changed our itinerary again: we are not going to Columbia, but on to Edenton for 2 nights, then to the Albemarle Plantation for 2, or possibly 3 nights. Then we will head out of NC and into Virginia towards Norfolk. Of course, all this is dependent on the weather (mostly wind speed and direction) as we are not in any hurry to get any where.

Comments Off on Altered plans for the Albemarle!

Posted in Maine 2021

Reunion in Belhaven!

Posted on May 6, 2021 | Comments Off

Belhaven, NC – Tuesday, 5/4

Knowing today would be a day of “no-travel”, we started out just like we would at home. After breakfast it was work, emails and phone calls. But before all that, Denise hosed-off the cockpit of the boat that was covered with these tiny flying bugs called mayflies or “midges”. These pesky creatures are a nuisance and their excrement is a green substance that can leave an ugly stain on the boat. Many of the cruising forums we follow all have opinions on the best remedies to get rid of the stains, but we feel the best thing is to get them off your boat ASAP. They really are quite disgusting and are found in marinas and anchorages all over. We have encountered them before, but only this bad one other time and that was in Harbor Springs, MI, when we were on the Great Loop in 2015.

Later in the morning, Denise spent time working on cataloging pictures and writing the last blog. Shortly after lunch she published it and within 15 minutes she got a phone call that would alter (in a fun way) the plans for the next two days. Her Ohio-based cousin Elizabeth, called to say she had just read the blog update and wanted to come for a visit. She has been in Fayetteville, NC visiting her father and saw our location. She calculated the 3-hour drive was something she was willing to do, and since she was without husband and son, we suggested she stay overnight instead of doing it all in one day. So, she headed out of Fayetteville and started her journey to us.

In the afternoon, Mark had a long conference call/training session with a client that seemed to last forever. Meanwhile, Denise went for a long walk. She walked downtown and on the outskirts of downtown in the mostly non-residential section. Here are some pictures she took along the way:

Prior to Elizabeth’s call, we had made plans to get together with Nick & Ginger (“Ginger Gale”) and Don & Joan (“Panacea”) for docktails. There was a little miscommunication initially, but once worked out we settled on a 6:30 pm gathering in the Gazebo at the marina. We also had decided to grill hamburgers for when Elizabeth arrived. All these plans were interrupted when a strong thunderstorm rolled in and had everyone scurrying back to their boats for safe cover, and aborting our socializing.

The storm didn’t last long, and once we knew Elizabeth was a short distance away, Mark threw the burgers on the grill, finishing just as our overnight guest arrived. It was wonderful to see her! It had been two years since our last rendezvous in New Bern, NC; that time she had her son and husband with her.

After we ate dinner and consumed adult beverages, Mark cleaned up the galley and the cousins stayed up past midnight talking and getting caught up. The Captain had long since retired for the night without knowing what the plans would be for the next day.

Belhaven, NC – Wednesday, 5/5

With as late as we stayed up, you would think we would have slept in until at least 7:00. However, Denise and Elizabeth were up early and started to plan out the day. Once Mark woke up and got breakfast, we decided to go on an adventure. Elizabeth really wanted to see a “beach”, but the Outer Banks from this location was still hours away and we were sensitive to her still having to drive the 3 hours back to Fayetteville later in the day. Instead, we opted to see the “Albemarle Beach” and headed out on the very rural roads of North Carolina. Along the way Elizabeth educated us on all things NC, which we did not know. Since she had grown up here, she had memorized all the fun facts and recited them to us as we traveled past corn fields and other farmlands. Once we had arrived at our destination, we realized that it was nothing more than a group of homes that aligned the shores of the Albemarle Sound, and was not a beach at all. We were bummed, but happy to just enjoy each other’s company.

By this time it was almost lunch and we began seeking nearby locations for a place to eat. We were 15 minutes from the town of Plymouth, and seeing they had a Mexican restaurant, we headed there; after all it was Cinco de Mayo! We easily found Casa Garcia and had a delicious meal and also consumed a few baskets of the multi-colored corn chips.

Plymouth is on the Roanoke River, which is a finger off the Albemarle Sound. It is one of the towns that is on the Albemarle Loop and we were considering visiting here in the coming days. After lunch, we drove around the downtown area and the docks along the waterway. The town is somewhat depressed and has lost a lot of its vigor since a bypass to the Outer Banks had been built; people no longer stop here along their way to the beach. We were glad we got to see it, but it did reinforce our decision that it may not be worth taking the boat all the way here for one-night.

We got in the car and headed directly back to the marina, which took a lot less time than our morning adventure. We took a few pictures with Elizabeth, then sent her on her way as we wanted her to get back to Fayetteville before it got dark. We were so excited to see her and we were so grateful for her taking time to come visit us.

After Elizabeth left, we did a few boat chores and spent some time talking with the dockmaster Gregg and our new (Back Cove) friend Wally, who came aboard our boat and shared a drink with us. We had a chance to get to know each other a little bit more and enjoyed our new friendship. We hope to see him again; maybe when we get to Long Island in NY.

After Wally left, we had a light dinner and got confirmation that Elizabeth made it back to her dad’s home safely. We then looked at the weather update for tomorrow and planned out the next few days. Our plans are to leave Belhaven tomorrow and head to the town of Columbia. We scheduled a departure time for mid-morning, anticipating the winds to die-down by the time we reached the Albemarle Sound. Without realizing it we had passed Looper midnight, so we went to bed; cherishing the fun day and new memories we had made with Denise’s cousin Elizabeth.

Comments Off on Reunion in Belhaven!

Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Belhaven, Plymouth

Sleepy Belhaven!

Posted on May 4, 2021 | Comments Off

Belhaven, NC – Monday, 5/3

We began the day early and got underway just before 7:00 am, after Denise got back from a short run. Our plans had changed slightly and we decided not to go to Manteo to start the Albemarle Loop (AL) from there. The weather (mostly wind) was going to be good for only a short time today, but over the next several days was not conducive to crossing large open and shallow waters. We decided to go to Belhaven instead, and then make the decision of when to leave there after the updates in the afternoon weather forecasts.

Once underway we found the Neuse River to be perfectly fine and it was a nice day to be on the water, albeit overcast. It took just over an hour to make our way east, retracing most of the same course on our way into New Bern. We saw the ferry boat crossing from the north shore to Cherry Point, and only a few other boats on the water.

Eventually the Neuse dumps into the Pamlico Sound where it acts like fingers through the low lying areas. We turned north into the Bay River, which then turns into Goose Creek and caught a familiar structure that sits on the point – letting us know we are on the correct course.

On both sides of the ICW are low-lying wildlife areas with small finger creeks. There is not much here except a few “outposts”. First is “RE Mayo” where many cruisers stop to pick up fresh seafood from the local fishing boats. Just beyond that is the Hobucken Bridge and then the Coast Guard Station Hobucken.

Shortly beyond this area the creek widens into Goose Creek Inlet and we made a right turn back into the Pamlico Sound.

This area can get really rough if the wind picks up, but today we found it to be very calm, thankfully. If we had stuck with the plan to go to Manteo we would have stayed on the Pamlico heading east, then eventually north for the next 3 hours. However, since we changed itinerary we only had to stay on the sound 5 miles until we hit the Pango River and turned left. Here the water was almost “pancake flat” and it turned out to be a very nice day.

Before long we came to the Pantego Creek and the town of Belhaven. We made a left turn off of the ICW into the channel, and once past the breakwater we docked side-tie at the Belhaven Marina (BM). It was 10:35 am and it took us just over 3.5 hours to go 62 miles.

We have been to this area in 2017, but stayed north of the town at Dowry Creek Marina (see our post about that here). The BM is steps from the small downtown and we wanted to be able to explore this a little more on this trip. Additionally, we had hoped to dine at the Spoon River restaurant in town; one that is highly spoken of in cruising circles. Unfortunately, during this time of year they are only open Thursdays through Sunday so we will once again miss the opportunity for this experience.

Once the boat was settled and we checked into the marina, we ate lunch and got on with our afternoon activities. Mark had work to do and a very long conference call planned. Meanwhile, Denise took advantage of the free laundry service and managed complete two loads. With only one washer and dryer, this simple task took some time, but fortunately only one other boater was in queue and she sandwiched her loads in between him.

Early in the afternoon, several other boats came into the marina and a few others pulled into the free city docks right next door. One of the boats in our marina was a Back Cove 29 whom Mark had a chance to talk with briefly. They hailed from Beaufort and were originally just getting fuel, but ended up staying overnight as the winds had picked up quite a bit; they were not going anywhere. Other boats started to show up including two Looper boats, who arrived right in the middle of a thunderstorm and pouring rain. We were so thankful we had left New Bern early!

While Mark was on his call and Denise was awaiting on towels to dry, she struck up a conversation with “Wally”. He owns a unit in the neighboring condominiums and also has a Back Cove ’37 on Long Island, NY where he is originally from. They compared notes about the boat and she learned he also has property in the Raleigh Durham area, and he and his wife have been married 50+ years. He is a retired marine and was last stationed at Cherry Point, NC. Denise learned he has completed the Albemarle Loop (AL) and offered suggestions of stops worth seeing and those to avoid or are not worth the time to get to.

When Mark was finally done his conference call, we looked at the updated weather and confirmed that it would not be worth leaving Belhaven before Thursday. If we had to be stuck somewhere between here and Columbia (first stop on the AL), here was the best possible place. It is about 80 miles to Columbia and we can certainly make that in one day. We confirmed with Greg the dockmaster that we would be able to stay on without issue and made plans accordingly.

By this time the rain had stopped and all the boaters were out socializing. We had a chance to meet the Looper boaters who had been buddy-boating together for some time now. Don & Joan (“Panacea”) were from Idaho, but started their loop in Fort Myers, FL. Ginger & Nick (“Ginger Gale”) are from Alabama and started their loop on the Tennessee River. Neither had been boating in these parts, so we shared some information about the immediate area with them. We also promised to get together over the next few days and share more places to visit on the Chesapeake and points north.

Since this is a small town and it is Monday, none of the restaurants are open for dinner, so it was another night of left-overs from the freezer; uneventful, but perfectly satisfying. Afterwards, we went for a walk through downtown, around the block, and by the town’s free docks. It didn’t take long and we were back in time to see a great sunset and get inside before the bugs carried us away.

A few comments about this marina and it surrounds are in order: It is by far the quirkiest of places, decorated with everything nautical. The infrastructure is very antiquated, with undulating fixed docks, poor internet (Wi-Fi) connections away from the marina office, and old (but very clean) facilities. We had a slight electrical issue when we first arrived, but eventually the dockmaster got it all worked out. However, for such a small place the amenities and the super-customer service (they have 7 “suggestion” jars) make it a stop worth visiting. In addition to lots of areas outside to socialize, there is a nice bar-b-que, volleyball & basketball courts, lawn bowling, croquet, a putting green, and a marina shop that sells all things, including beer & wine at affordable prices. There are two rest-rooms with shower facilities that are fully stocked with everything you could possibly want, including fresh towels, and they are decorated with everything nautical or US Navy themed. Near the laundry facilities is a “cruisers retreat” with chairs, a book exchange, and an Amazon “Alexa” that is available for questions, but almost always is playing music. Denise enjoyed changing the music to something that was easier on the ears than the head-banging heavy metal that was playing when we arrived. Here are some pictures: