Island Office

BBB – Back to Belhaven & Beaufort!

Posted on October 8, 2021 | Comments Off

Friday (9/17) – Belhaven, NC

Today we started out not knowing where we would end up, but we had hopes of making it to Belhaven, NC, with possible stops at the Alligator River Marina, or even Coinjock. The reason we could not be certain was due to the bridges, a lock, and a fuel stop that we would have to get through. With a little luck, we would not have to wait long for any of the openings (bridges & locks) or for fuel dock space. Also of consideration was how many sailboats we would get behind and have to pass in the narrow canal. Lastly, we were not certain that the conditions on the Albemarle Sound would be conducive to crossing by the time we arrived.

With all this in mind, we left Norfolk just before 8:00 am and made our way slowly through the no-wake zone and passed the first 3 bridges that were high in clearance, or were in the “usually up” position. Our biggest concern was the next bridge, the #7 Norfolk-Southern Railway Bridge which was undergoing maintenance and had a close schedule we had been working around. Fortunately for us, the bridge maintenance was not scheduled for today, and we confirmed its opening just before we left Norfolk. We cruised through it without issue, but had to pass a few sailboats who had to wait on an opening for the Gilmerton Highway Bridge; a bridge immediately before the NS#7, but one we can fit under if it is closed.

Norfolk Southern #7 Bridge – Gilmberton Bridge

Our next challenge was stopping for fuel at Top Rack Marina, a place we have stopped numerous times before. Luckily we were the only boat getting fuel and we were only delayed 20 minutes for our fill-up.

Our timing for the Great Bridge Lock (GBL) was about as good as it gets; we only had to wait 15 minutes for its once-per-hour opening. Since they have to coordinate with the Great Bridge Bridge (GBB) opening, the schedule is very tight and we had to be ready to go when they open. There was little traffic on the ICW at this point, so there were only a handful of boats in the lock with us. However, as the gates were closing we could see several large southbound yachts that were racing to make the opening. Unfortunately, they did not arrive in time and were forced to wait for the next opening. We kind of snickered when we noticed that one of them was “Serendipity II” – the yacht with the condescending Captain in Norfolk.

Once through the GB Lock and the GBB, we were able to get back up to our usual cruising speed, except for passing other boats, or when transiting the remaining bridges. Finally, we made our way to the North Landing Swing Bridge, arriving in time for the 11:00 am opening. It had taken us 3 hours to go 20 miles and it was one of the more efficient passages through these waters we have ever had.

We continued heading south and made our way south on the ICW through the North Landing River, and out into the Currituck Sound. It was windy and choppy, but not sufficient to keep us from stopping as the passage here was about 10 miles before we were back in protected waters. We then cruised through Coinjock, a place we have stayed several times while awaiting weather or northbound bridges to be fixed. We were happy that it was early enough in the day that we would not be stopping here this trip.

After a fairly easy crossing of the Currituck Sound, we were optimistic that we would be able to get across the Albemarle Sound, so we proceeded south. The ICW leaves Coinjock and soon thereafter broadens into the North River, where there is no land protection from the south. However, the wind was from the north-northeast and the low-lying land was just enough to block most of it. We cruised another 8 miles and then entered the Albemarle Sound to bumpy waves and some whitecaps. There was no land to block the now increasing wind.

We plotted a direct straight-line course towards the Alligator River on the southern shore, and again here the crossing was not long (10 miles). It was a bit rougher than the Currituck, but the wind and waves were from behind so it was much more comfortable than if it was crashing over the bow; we were glad we were not trying to go north.

During the crossing we calculated the remaining mileage to Belhaven and realized we would be able to make it there for the evening. Denise was happy we would not be staying over at the Alligator River Marina, although Mark was disappointed that he would miss this gas-station marina’s fried chicken.

Just after 2:00 pm we made our way through the Alligator River Bridge and continued south, still with wind and waves bumping us along from behind. At one point we got buzzed by a military jet (F35) that was so low and loud Denise thought it was something wrong with the boat. It wasn’t until it hit the afterburners that the sound was recognizable and we could breathe a sigh of relief. Meanwhile, Mark called the Belhaven Marina and secured a reservation for us for the night.

An hour later we left the Alligator River and entered the Alligator-Pungo Canal, a 20-mile stretch of the ICW where we had no cell signal. There were no other boats on the water and the canal is lined mostly with state parkland and a few remote home sites. Eventually, we came up to the Wilkerson Bridge, and soon thereafter left the canal and entered the Pungo River.

Alligator-Pungo Canal – Wilkerson Bridge

Finally, five miles later we left the ICW and took the channel into the Belhaven Marina where we docked on a side-tie in almost the same spot as when we were here in early May. We had traveled 120 nautical miles and it took us 9 hours to get here. But we were very happy to have the bridges, locks and sounds behind us.

Once we secured the boat and checked in with the marina, we called and secured dinner reservations at Spoon River Artworks and Market. We have unsuccessfully tried to get into this farm-to-table restaurant on two other occasions, but they were closed on the days we were here. We were delighted that they could take us, and after quick showers and well-deserved cocktail, we made our way to the restaurant for a delicious meal.

In May, Denise had talked on the phone with the owner (Theresa) about the challenges with staying open during Covid, and trying to keep their staff. While we were dining, she stopped by our table and we reminded her of our conversation. She was so apologetic for not being open then, and was delighted we came back. Then she took us back to the ‘wine room’ and gave us a free bottle of wine. It was a nice touch and we really felt appreciated. We highly recommend this restaurant to anyone who finds themselves in this great little town in NC. Even if you don’t want to eat there, the place is decorated very eclectically and you can buy anything hanging from the ceiling or off the walls. To learn more about this place you can click here.

We returned to the boat after dinner and spent time on the phone with family members, and a neighbor who was looking after our home. We had two very long hot days on the water and we would be moving again tomorrow, so we went to bed early and fell fast asleep.

Saturday (9/18) – Beaufort, NC

Today’s journey was short compared to the last few days; it was only 60 miles to Homer Smith Marina in Beaufort, NC. It was nice to sleep in and not be in a hurry to get off the dock. We even managed to get some emails done before heading out of the Belhaven Marina at 8:45 am.

We made our way past the Belhaven Breakwater and headed back into the ICW and the Pungo River. It was a little windy, but like yesterday it was from behind, and once again it was hot. In past years we were not this far south in Mid-September and it was much cooler; luckily, we have not had to face lightening or thunderstorms. Unlike yesterday, it was a beautiful cloudless day and made for a nice day on the water.

We made our way through the Pungo River and eventually we came to the Pamlico River. The 5-mile crossing was uneventful and we were soon in the protected waters of Goose Creek. Here we encountered lots of boats and it was slow going. We were passed by several sport fishing boats, and we overtook a few other boaters who were enjoying this beautiful Saturday on the water. Eventually, we cruised passed the USCG Station Hobucken and the fishing boats at RE Mayo Seafood stop; a known landmark for all ICW cruisers.

Not long afterwards the ICW opens up into the Bay River and the areas on both sides of the ICW are more populated, although the houses are still far apart from one another. We always know we are close the Neuse River when we spot on such house on the northwestern shore that sticks out from all the others.

House on point near Bay River – Pamlico Sound

We entered the Neuse River and headed west, then southwest on a diagonal crossing to Adams Creek. It was a little breezy and there were lots of sailboats enjoying the day on this large body of water. We cruised the 20 miles in relative comfort with the wind and waves behind us. At 11:00 am we entered Adams Creek and headed south. Here it starts out with a few homes along the shores, but eventually it becomes quite populated with many more houses and boat docks It was slow-going through this area now known as Core Creek, until the ICW widens and it becomes part of the Newport River.

Houses on Adams Creek – crossed the Neuse River

We then continued south a few short miles and pulled into Homer Smith Marina, located in Town Creek on the northern end of Beaufort. Our 60 mile cruise took 3.5 hours and it was still early in the day.

Once we settled the boat we checked in with the marina for our three-night stay; relishing the fact that we would be staying somewhere more than just one night. We especially like Homer Smith Marina for many reasons including: Free laundry; free ice from the “ice house”; loaner car we can use to go to church; great restaurants in walking distance to the marina; and a great place for Denise to get in some runs. One thing we do miss is their shrimp processing they used to do, but discontinued due to Covid. The marina is now in the process of building a new Cruisers building (with laundry, showers and captains/cruisers lounge) where it used to stand. They also have plans to add 70 more slips in the marina.

In the afternoon our first chore was to install the newly repaired blind we had received from Ocean Air. Unfortunately, they had also damaged it in the process of stuffing it into the shipping container, but Mark was pretty sure they could send us the parts to fix the piece that was broken.

We then spent the rest of the afternoon planning our itinerary for the days after Beaufort, and made marina reservations for 3 stops in Wrightsville Beach, Bald Head, and Georgetown, SC. We then used the marina loaner car to go to mass at St. Egberts Catholic Church for the Saturday evening vigil.

After mass, we went to Chick-Fil-A for dinner. It had been months since we had a chance to eat at this fine dining establishment, and we had a craving. Plus, it was fast and we could press on with our other tasks. We made a run to Walmart and were reminded why one should NEVER shop there on a Saturday evening; there is nothing left on the shelves. They were even out of the oil Mark wanted for the boat engine. Feeling frustrated we returned back to the marina with half our shopping list complete and with plans to return here and to Harris Teeters (grocery store) before leaving Beaufort.

Sunday (9/19) – Beaufort, NC

This is a great town for Denise to run in, with many paved residential streets not far from the marina and little to no traffic early in the morning. Her out-and-back run took her to the downtown area and the waterfront where she checked out the handful of yachts at Beaufort Docks (marina) and at the anchorage. She continued along Front Street, all the way to the Boathouse at Front Street Village, checking out the homes that overlooked Taylor Creek along the way. She returned back along the same path, and arrived back at the boat in time for breakfast with Captain Mark. Here are some pictures from her run:

Today was laundry day, and Denise was able to get several loads done before others in the marina tried to do the same. With only one washer and dryer it took all morning and a bit of the afternoon to get it all done. Meanwhile, Mark had work to do as his team has a project for a client that can only be done on the weekends (when the clients don’t have anyone on their computer systems). Later in the day, we used the loaner car and went to AutoZone to get the engine oil we could not get at Walmart yesterday. We also went to Rose Seafood, a 7^th generation family-owned market that had purchased some of the processing equipment from the owners of Homer Smith Marina when they shut down their shrimp processing in December 2020. We met Mr. Rose, one of the owners who waited on us when we purchased some fresh shrimp for dinner, and another portion we put in the freezer for a future meal.

Once back at the marina, Mark changed the engine oil while Denise did some mending, read some articles, and then prepared a shrimp and pasta dish for dinner. In the evening we spoke with family on the phone, and then spent the rest of the evening relaxing and streaming a few shows on TV.

Monday (9/20) – Beaufort, NC

Today was not very adventurous and there is little to write about. In the morning, Denise took the loaner van to the grocery store and picked up a few perishable items to get us to Charleston. While she was away, Mark had a series of conference calls with clients. We spent the rest of the morning handling business issues, working on the blog, and talking with people on the telephone.

In the afternoon, we spent time working with Denise’s sister on re-planning our trip to Corning, New York the first weekend of October (10/1 – 10/4); Denise & Claire were running in the Wineglass Half Marathon on Sunday (10/3). Our original plan was to try and reach the top of the Chesapeake Bay by the end of September. Claire and her husband John were going to drive to meet us somewhere along Chesapeake and we would ride in the car with them to and from Corning. However, we have had a few issues that have developed since our original plan, and we needed to be closer to home for after the run weekend. This has also been one of the reasons we have been pushing to get south faster than originally planned. Our revised itinerary now had us arriving in Charleston, SC the last week in September. With this new schedule and destination, we now were within driving distance of home. So, we decided to leave the boat in Charleston, rent a car and drive home, and fly to NY out of Orlando. Since we had soon-to-be-expiring companion tickets, we were able to do so more affordably, and save Claire and John a very long car ride. Once Mark was able to secure us a rental car in Charleston (not as bad an issue in SC as in Maine), we were able to then book our flights. Everything seemed to fall in place, so now all we had to do was get the boat to Charleston.

Also in the afternoon, Denise contacted the Marine Corps Base at Camp Lejeune to inquire about live-fire exercises for tomorrow. Some of you may know from our previous blogs, that if there are live-fire exercises, the ICW is closed through the base for extended periods of time. They also put up restricted areas off-shore, making it very undesirable for an off-shore passage down the NC coast in this area. If there were going to be exercises we would have to time our departure to arrive at the Onslow Beach Bridge for the 1:00 pm opening; the only one that day. This would significantly impact our ability to get to our intended destination of Wrightsville Beach tomorrow. Luckily, there were no exercises planned, so now all we had to do was time the bridge opening for the half-hour openings. We considered going offshore, but the wind out of the east and rain possibilities made us stick to the ICW for the day.

During the day, the wind picked up considerably and things were really blowing hard. This was as forecasted and one of the reasons we chose to stay in Beaufort for the additional day. It didn’t keep a local sailing fleet from enjoying time on the water, and we watched them as we enjoyed our happy hour at the end of the day.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Beaufort NC, Belhaven, Great Bridge

Another Long Day!

Posted on September 27, 2021 | Comments Off

Thursday (9/16) – Norfolk, VA

Denise started the day with a quick run through downtown Annapolis and then through the neighborhood around the marina in Eastport. It was near dark when she started, but captured a few pictures of downtown Annapolis at dawn.

We left Spa Creek just before 8:00 am when the tide was low enough for us to once again squeak under the Spa Creek Bridge without requiring it to open.

We cruised out of Annapolis Harbor and into the Severn River, finally turning right at the buoy and headed south on the Chesapeake Bay. Less than 30 minutes later we were passing the Thomas Point Shoal Light. This is one of the most photographed lighthouses on the Chesapeake, and we are always thrilled when we pass by it.

It was a nice calm day on the Chesapeake, although overcast. We made as straight a course heading as possible for Cape Charles on the Southeastern shore for the first few hours. However, it was not long into the journey that Captain Mark suggested a change in plan. The window for a comfortable passage from Cape Charles to Wormley Creek on Friday afternoon had shut, and now we were rethinking our overall plans. After much discussion, we changed our plans for Cape Charles and Wormley Creek in order to get into safe harbor for the evening. Friday through Monday was going to be really rough on the Chesapeake and the best option for us was to go all the way into Norfolk tonight. However, we needed to see Denise’s brother as he had several packages for us, including the main salon window shade we had repaired. We had discussed going to Norfolk, renting a car and driving up to see him, but after several scenarios we chose to just take the boat up the York River to Wormley Creek for a quick stop over on the way to Norfolk.

With this in mind, we altered our course to hug the western shore and ran close to the LNG facility at Cove Point, near Solomons. For the first time here we actually saw a ship docked at the pipeline. And right after that we passed the Cove Point Lighthouse.

Ship at Dominion Cove Point LNG facility near Solomons

As we continued south, the water continued to get calmer and we made pretty good time. We ate lunch along the way and around 12:30 we passed the Smith Point Lighthouse.

It remained calm as we continued cruising; at one point we could see the eastern shore of the Chesapeake near where we would have gone in if we were going to Cape Charles.

Just after 2:00 pm we passed by the New Point Comfort Light house and shortly thereafter we turned right to go up the York River.

The wind had picked up a small bit, but it was at our back and we were fine. We were a little concerned with what we may face on our way to Norfolk, but so far it all still looked good. Meanwhile, we had been in constant communication with John (Denise’s brother) who agreed that a meet-up at Wormley Creek Marina was the best alternative all around. So we made our way back to the place we stayed in the spring, and he met us for a quick hello and package exchange.

In less than an hour, we left Wormley Creek and headed back out on the York River. It was a little bumpy as we were now facing the wind from the east, and the current was also against us. But it was certainly tolerable and we knew that we only had 1.5 hours left to go before arriving in Norfolk. Along the way down the Bay today we had cancelled our reservations at Cape Charles and Wormley Creek (all without penalty), and made a reservation at Waterside in Norfolk.

We entered the Chesapeake and immediately were faced with increasing chop. It was not very comfortable for the first 30 minutes or so, until we rounded the Poquoson Flats. But, as we neared Ft. Monroe we were able to change to a more southern (less easterly) course and that made it a little better.

Old Point Comfort lighthouse – At Ft. Monroe

We then crossed over to the eastern shore of the main channel heading into Norfolk where the land blocked the wind and things finally settled down. As usual, there was lots of boat and barge traffic that required Captain Mark to keep a sharp eye and steady hand on the wheel. It was here that we passed the USCG sailing vessel “Eagle”. It was a thrill to see this beautiful ship up close.

We entered Norfolk harbor and the US Naval Shipyard where we were amazed at how many boats were in port at the same time. Wasn’t this not supposed to ever happen again after Pearl Harbor?

As we moved up the channel to the “no wake” zone, we approached a large yacht (“Serendipity II”) trying to pass a barge and attempting to raise him on the VHF. After several miscommunications between the two vessels, the yacht made their way around the barge without issue, as we did too. We then both approached the Waterside Marina about the same time, but we were requested to hold outside until the yacht was docked. Once it was tied-up and settled at the outermost dock, we were instructed to come into our assigned slip in the marina’s basin. As we entered, Captain Mark had to make a tight left turn near this large vessel, and our stern turned towards the yacht. The Captain was on the deck of the boat looking down and gave Denise (standing in the stern) an awful scowl. What he couldn’t see from his vantage point was that we cleared the hull of his boat by at least 10 feet. He had nothing to worry about and just minutes later Mark successfully docked our boat around another yacht in even tighter quarters.

Finally, we arrived in our slip and secured our boat for the night. It was 5:15 pm and we had traveled a total of 156 miles, including a side trip up and back down a part of the York River. We checked in with the marina to get the usual information, and poured ourselves a celebratory cocktail. We were disappointed that we would once again miss Cape Charles, but we were glad that we would now be able to head south before the NS #7 railroad bridge was locked down.

When we arrived at Waterside there were several other yachts in the marina, including a Berger Yacht we saw in Portland, ME (“Wrigley”). Then we watched another handful of boats pull into the marina, including a 60 foot “Downeast” boat from Key West called “Indigo”. We did not have a chance to talk with them, but we did like the lines of this older but beautiful boat. Unlike in the spring when the marina if full of “Loopers”, the majority of the boats here were larger yachts who were like us, trying to get south.

Before it got too late, Mark hosed the salt off the boat and Denise prepared a dinner on board. We took a short walk around the marina, then retired for the night. Like in the spring, the handful of restaurants remaining at Waterside were blaring music quite loudly and it barely faded us. It had been another long day!

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Annapolis, Chesapeake Bay, Norfolk, Wormley Creek

Enamored with Eastport – and Annapolis!

Posted on September 26, 2021 | Comments Off

Wednesday (9/15) – Southern Annapolis Yacht Center (SAYC) – Eastport, MD

After yesterday’s long day, sleeping in was what we had in mind. However, Denise woke up at the usual time and so she decided to go to the early mass at St. Mary’s Catholic Church in downtown Annapolis. Since our boat is actually in the town of Eastport, this meant a one-mile walk first to, then across the Spa Creek Bridge, then a quick left turn up a side street to the church. It is a beautiful church with a K-12 school also on the grounds, located right in the heart of the city.

After mass and on her walk back to the boat, she encountered several groups of students on their way to school. A few were willing to stop and chat with her about the school, and they were all very engaging and personable. Once back on the Eastport side of the bridge, she discovered the older kids would park their cars along the residential section of Eastport and then walk over the bridge to class. This is smart, and if you ever drive to here by car, this is the thing to do as there is almost no place to park in downtown Annapolis.

Once back on the boat, we settled into a day of work, boat chores, cataloging pictures and blog writing. Throughout the day we got to witness all sorts of usual and unusual watercraft that made their way up into Spa Creek.

In the afternoon, we sat down and planned out the next few days of travel, taking us down the Chesapeake to Cape Charles on the eastern shore, then back to Wormley Creek on the York River for a quick visit with Denise’s brother, John and his wife Cathy. One of the things we were having to consider in this scheduling is the planned closure of the Norfolk-Southern railroad bridge (#7) south of Norfolk on the ICW. It was scheduled to be locked down for 25 hours early next week, when we would otherwise cruise through there and need it opened. Without losing days for this, we were trying to get through it on Saturday or Sunday if at all possible. That of course had to be coordinated with a stop where we can attend mass on Saturday evening or Sunday morning. This is why it took us nearly 2 hours to come up with our eventual plan.

When we were with them in Maine, our friends Mark & Jenay (“Ravello”) had recommended we visit “Lewnes”, an old established steakhouse in the Annapolis area. We were able to get last minute reservations for the evening, but only an early seating (5:45 pm) was available. That was ok with us as we generally don’t like to eat too late anyway. Since it is located in Eastport we did not have far to walk for the dinner, and enjoyed seeing all the locals out walking during this time of day. It really is a lovely community with some small and some gorgeously large homes. We had a fabulous meal (probably the best steak ever) and we were glad we chose to eat here. We had hoped to make it back to the Davis Pub this trip, but we will have to put that on the agenda for our next visit.

After dinner we walked along the northern shore of Eastport, overlooking the harbor towards the Naval Academy. Then we meandered back to SAYC and walked all around the docks, and the new townhomes being constructed adjacent to the marina. We have been very happy with our choice of this marina, both from a location and amenities standpoint. It is so convenient to everything, but quiet and away from the crazy touristy areas in Annapolis. We would highly recommend it to other cruisers, however in so doing we risk the fact that it will become so popular that we might never be able to get a slip in the future.

Before retiring for the evening, we checked the latest marine forecasts for the Chesapeake Bay. It still looked good for us to head south tomorrow, but we may have to limit our stay in Cape Charles to one night; Saturday and Sunday were not going to be good days to be in the lower Chesapeake, let alone crossing it.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Annapolis, Eastport

A Long, Long Day!

Posted on September 24, 2021 | Comments Off

Tuesday (9/14) – Annapolis, M

Before heading out this morning, Denise had managed to get a speed run in around the casino and park grounds, including a few loops around the parking lot at the adjacent park. And when she returned to the boat we noticed that fog had appeared.

Just yesterday we had been talking about how the weather conditions would be conducive to it, and that we had not had to deal with this since leaving Maine. We spoke too soon. But fortunately, it dissipated rapidly and by the time we wanted to leave, it was all but gone.

Our intention was to get from Atlantic City, through Cape May and up the Delaware Bay as conditions there looked good as well. We had identified several stopping points for the night, including possible anchorages if necessary. Our hope was to be able to make it to Annapolis, but we were not going to make any overnight arrangements until we were sure we could make it that far.

With fingers crossed for a forecast to hold, we left Farley State Marina at The Golden Nugget in Atlantic City just before 8:00 am. Although there was a lingering haze, it did look to be a nice day and the Atlantic Ocean had certainly calmed down.

We found the Atlantic Ocean to be quiet calm with less than 1’ swells and no wind or chop on the water. It was a pleasant change from yesterday and we have never seen it so calm. Denise prays for days like this here.

Just after 9:00 am we passed a trawler that looked familiar; it was “Grump Stump” whom we met at Somes Sound in Maine in July. Unfortunately, he was too far away to get a good picture. Just like yesterday, we hugged the coastline and shortly after seeing “Grump Stump” we passed by the numerous amusement parks at Wildwood.

With the calm seas we were able to cruise at 20 kts and make good time. At 9:45 we entered the Cape May Inlet and headed through the very familiar harbor, passing the USCG Station and turning right, then left to enter the Cape May Canal.

But first we had to make a fuel stop. We turned up the Cape Island Creek and stopped at Miss Chris Fishing Center for a fill-up. Forty minutes later we left and headed back through the Cape May Canal on our way to the Delaware Bay.

Soon we passed by the ferry terminal and at 11:00 am we entered the Delaware Bay, greeted by an entire school of frolicking bottlenose dolphins.

We were also pleased to see the marine forecast had held and we had calm seas in this body of water as well. Additionally, we had the current in our favor as we made our way up the Delaware and we were able to make good time. By 12:30 we had passed the “Ship Jack” (aka Ship John) Light and we were looking good to make it to the Chesapeake Bay today.

Before long we rounded the point where the Salem Nuclear Power Plant is located, and made our way across the channel to position for entry into the C&D Canal. We were now out of New Jersey and entered the state of Delaware. Here Captain Mark negotiated around a fuel ship and took a left turn into the Canal Entrance. It had taken us 2 hours instead of the usual 2.5 hours to get up the Delaware Bay.

We cruised the C&D Canal with relative ease, although now we faced a 2 kt current against us. Along the way we left Delaware (it really is a small state) and entered into the state of Maryland. We passed by Chesapeake City (a possible stop for the night), and continued under the Chesapeake City Bridge into Back Creek (one of many in these parts). It was 2:00 and although we had already traveled a long way, we were pretty sure we would make it to Annapolis, another 2.5 hours away.

We exited Back Creek and entered the Elk River to very calm and flat water. Here the western coastline is hilly with nice houses, then the Elk Neck State Park, then more houses, until the park that leads to the Turkey Point Lighthouse. On the eastern shore we pass the Buttonwood RV Park, a landmark we use and think it has to be the most expensive RV Park in the country, with its spectacular view. You can learn more about this place here.

Near Elk Neck State Park – Homes on Elk River

About this time we heard the boom, boom, boom, over the boats engine and remembered we were not far from the Maryland Proving Ground, a U.S. Army facility on the western shore of the Chesapeake Bay. We were finally on the Chesapeake Bay!

We were now pretty sure that we could make it to Annapolis and Mark called the Southern Annapolis Yachting Center (SAYC) and secured a two-night reservation. We had been told of this place by several of our cruising friends. It is located on Spa Creek, but on the Eastport side of the creek, and past the downtown moorings. We had to go under the Spa Creek Bridge with its limited opening schedule, but if our timing was good we would be able to sneak under at a lower tide and not require it to be opened.

But first we must get there. We still had 2 hours of cruising on the Chesapeake Bay and it was very calm. We did pass by several tugs pushing barges, but it was the USCG Cutter that we passed that was the most exciting. We always play the “guess that boat type” game when in these situations, and Captain Mark scored 100% when he suggested that it was a buoy tender.

Eventually we passed the intersection with the Patapsco River (to Baltimore) to our west, and Rock Hall on the eastern shore, where we have stayed many times. Here the wave action kicked up a bit as it is known to do. The windy breeze was a welcome relief in some ways as it had been hot all day and we were really missing the tinting on our old (but leaky) windows in the main salon. However, we knew that we did not have long to go so we endured and pressed on. Finally, we passed under the Chesapeake Bay Bridge and we could see the numerous container ships at anchor just south of it.

We took a right turn through the channel to the Severn River and saw several groups of sailboats in racing or evening sailing classes near the US Naval Academy.

We cruised through the harbor and made our way under the Spa Creek Bridge and into Spa Creek. We pulled into the slip at the Southern Annapolis Yachting Center and was greeted by live-aboard resident Dave, who helped us with the tie up. It was just after 5:00 pm and we had cruised 117 miles in 9 hours. We were tired, but so very happy with the progress we made today.

After getting settled, taking showers, and having a cocktail, we walked the half mile to Boatyard Bar and Grill in Eastport for dinner. Not wanting to wait the 45 minutes for a table, we chose to immediately sit at the bar and ate a terrific meal. We had been here before, as have several family members, and it did not disappoint this time either.

After dinner we walked back to the marina and settled in for the night. We were both totally exhausted and could not stay awake. Finally, at 8:30 pm, like a couple of old folks, we went to bed – it had been a long, long, day!

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Absecon Inlet, Annapolis, Atlantic City, C&D Canal, Cape May, Chesapeake Bay, Chesapeake City, Delaware River

Oh No – NOT AC Again!

Posted on September 24, 2021 | Comments Off

Monday (9/13) – Atlantic City, NJ

At 7:00 am this morning we watched our friends Bill and Barb (“High Spirits”) leave GKYC and head out of the harbor. We had shared contact information and they had agreed to let us know how the Atlantic Ocean was once they rounded Sandy Hook and settled into a course that would run down the NJ shoreline. In the meantime we ate breakfast and readied our boat for our departure, confirming the forecast and current buoy observations were as expected.

At 8:00 am Bill called and said the seas were 1 -2’ as forecasted and things were going well. This was encouraging and with that information we said goodbye to our friends at GKYC one more time. Our hope was to make it at least to Cape May, but we knew if it got rough we could pull in at Manasquan inlet and run the inside portion of the ICW down to Atlantic City, adding about 1 hour to our expected 6 hour trip. The forecast did call for waves to be a little bigger around Manasquan (2’-3’), but from there south they were forecasted to flatten at Barnegat Inlet, be back at 2’ south of Atlantic City, and even more calm as we got closer to Cape May.

The Raritan Bay was pretty calm and we were through it in no time, rounding Sandy Hook in 45 minutes and had a nice view of the lighthouse.

We ran close-in to the shore, using the land to block the winds and keep the seas a little calmer. Around 9:30 am we passed by Asbury Park with things going well, and soon thereafter passed Bill & Barb (“High Spirits”). There were many boats on the water, including a few we have seen in our travels this summer. We communicated via VHF with one (“Course Change”) whom we saw in Bucks Harbor, ME.

Before long we passed Barnegat light and things started to get a little bumpy, as expected. By the time we got to Manasquan, things were not great, but tolerable. Remembering they were supposed to get better, we decided to press on. But it stayed bouncy, and then it started to get worse, not better. At one point we slowed our speed because the waves were now bigger and more frequently spaced apart. Instead of 2’ waves 6 seconds apart, we had 4’ waves 2 seconds apart and it was not fun.

As we approached Atlantic City, we had to decide to continue on to Cape May and expect the same conditions for another 2 hours (even though the forecast was supposed to be better), or call it a day at 85 miles and go south tomorrow. We quickly checked the forecast for tomorrow which looked even better than today’s forecast, so we decided to take our chances and call it a day; even though it was only 12:30 pm.

At the very last minute, Captain Mark made a quick right turn and we entered Absecon Inlet (Atlantic City). We called Farley State Marina at the Golden Nugget and secured a slip for the night. We have been here before and this is the one place we really did not want to get stuck. Aside from the crowd that comes to gamble at the casino, the area outside of the marina and casino grounds are not too safe (as told to us in 2019 by a security guard). But the main reason we do not want to get stuck in this state is because it is a bad place to be if a hurricane comes, and there is no easy access to an airport. We were pushing to get to the Chesapeake Bay should we have to worry about either of these things. Plus, by getting to Cape May, it completes one more large-body of water crossing, relieving Denise’s anxiety level and allowing her to better enjoy the rest of the trip. We were now counting on the fact that tomorrow’s forecast would be more accurate than the one for today, and that we would have calm enough water to get out of New Jersey.

Once we got our slip assignment, we secured our boat, ate lunch, and attempted to check in at the marina office. But the dockmaster was fueling another boat and we ended up doing it all virtually (via the Dockwa app and text messages). Although we were disappointed we did not get to Cape May, we used this opportunity to get some chores done. The boat was covered in salt, so Mark washed the boat. Meanwhile, Denise did some laundry. She did not mind the fact the laundry building was a quarter mile away in this very large marina, it was that it was so bloody hot, with no clouds or shade. After 2.5 hours and 6 trips back and forth, it was finally complete and it was time to cool off and relax.

Meanwhile, one by one other boats started coming into the marina. One was a Sabre 42 (“Surf Rider”) that ended up in the slip to our right, and another was a sport fisher (“Electric Bill”) that docked to our left. Other cruisers we had passed during the day also came in and we heard from Bill & Barb (“High Spirits”) that they too pulled in and anchored at the nearby anchorage. Every crew on these boats all said the same thing: It was much rougher than expected and we were tired of being out in that mess. We no longer felt bad for changing our plans.

We spent some time talking with Jay & Sherri (“Surf Rider”) about our Sabre/Back Cove boats, as well as some other boaters and people on the docks. During this time, “Rob”, the first mate of “Electric Bill” came and brought us each a huge piece of fresh Yellowtail Tuna they had recently caught. We had already planned to eat dinner on the boat, but our entrée choice was now changed to enjoy this great gift. We cut up the fish for dinner and the remainder went into the freezer for 2 more meals in the future. Then, with some rice and a salad, we had a delicious meal of seared sesame tuna to enjoy.

After dinner we ended up talking with Jay & Sherri (“Surf Rider”) about their intended plans, our plans for tomorrow and overall cruising the east coast. Like us, they intend to leave tomorrow but at a later start time. We bid them safe travels and went in for the night.

A final check before bed of the marine forecasts for tomorrow looked good, so we set plans to leave no later than 8:00 am in the morning.

A side note: I failed to include in the last post (GKYC) that Mark was able to deduce and repair the dinghy fuel issue we experienced in Essex. His theory that it was the fuel pickup tube in the gas can proved to be correct. Within 15 minutes he had repaired it and put in a fix to prevent it from happening again. It is so nice to have a captain who can repair things when we are cruising.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Absecon Inlet, Atlantic City, Great Kills Yacht Club

Great Friends at Great Kills!

Posted on September 22, 2021 | Comments Off

Thursday (9/9) – Great Kills Yacht Club, Staten Island, NY

As expected the winds continued through the night and the forecasted rains joined in on the fun. The slap of waves on the hull of our boat was so loud Denise moved to the settee in the main salon to try and sleep. It was only after putting on a movie (“Sleepless in Seattle”) that she was finally able to nod off and get some rest. Mark too was a bit restless, but managed to get some shuteye still in the main stateroom.

In the morning, the rain subsided for a bit, but it continued off and on for most of the day. We stayed pretty close to the boat doing work for clients, catching up on emails, cataloging pictures, and writing for the blog. Mark also was able to schedule a diver to come and install the zinc on the boat shaft. “Larry” showed up in the afternoon when the rain had abated and was able to complete the task as well as inspect the prop. We had another successful year of dodging lobster pots in Maine and once again came through without any issues.

For the last few months, John C has been working to upgrade the WIFI system and when we checked in yesterday was happy to report that it was nearly complete. But we still had a few issues with it and the boat’s WIFI catcher, so when the installation guys showed up today, Mark was able to talk “techie” with them and get it resolved. We ended up having the best connection we have ever had here, making it an even better place to visit.

Today, was the 32^nd anniversary of the day we said “I Do”, but since we were not really sure until yesterday where we would be, we had not made any big plans. However, once we knew we would be in Staten Island, we made reservations for a nice dinner at Fiore Di Mare, a local restaurant on Mansion St., not far from GKYC. We have never eaten here before, but some cruising friends who did so in the spring, highly recommended the place to us. We dodged the raindrops and walked up Mansion Street to the restaurant, wondering why we even needed a reservation; the place was nearly empty.

It was very nice and we had a mini celebration that we kept to ourselves, while enjoying some delicious food. However, we noticed that the whole neighborhood was remarkably quiet compared to the crowds that are here in the early days of summer. When we were here in June, even on a Thursday, these streets were very crowded and all the neighborhood is buzzing with cars and people. That was not the scene tonight, and the restaurant was hardly busy.

After dinner we walked back to the boat and ended up streaming the movie “A Rainy Day in NY”. This was a quirky Woody Allen movie with multiple subplots, and we enjoyed it enough to stay up past our normal bedtime to see the ending.

Friday (9/10) – Great Kills Yacht Club, Staten Island, NY

Today was a beautiful day with warm temperatures but not too hot. However, it was very windy as the remnants of Hurricane Larry stirred up the waters off shore (6’ seas) and sent winds our way. We were not going anywhere for a few more days, so we decided to make use of the time and get some things done.

John C was kind enough to lend us his car, and we were able to go to the grocery store and get a few items. A trip to any grocery store in this part of the country is an experience. No matter the time of day, they are always crowded, and with “Help Wanted” signs everywhere, there is insufficient help. Every time we shop somewhere else, it has us longing for our favorite supermarket: Publix – where shopping really is a pleasure.

Once back on the boat, we got busy with work, cataloging pictures, writing on the blog, and handling a few personal items. During the early afternoon the boat “High Spirit” pulled in behind us, and we met Bill and Barbara. They too are headed south, but will be leaving their boat at Atlantic Yacht Basin in Chesapeake, VA for the winter.

In the evening, we decided to patronize our host club (GKYC) and go to the bar for socialization, postponing our usual happy hour. The drinks here are very reasonably priced ($2 and $3 each) and they come with quite the punch. We went with Bill and Barb, and ended up meeting another local couple, Kevin & Cheryl (“Our Holiday”), whom we had spoken with on the dock as their boat is near ours. We ended up spending a lot of time talking with them about cruising, which they would like to do now that they are empty nesters. The club was packed because tonight there was a “members meeting”: at 7:00 pm all the men (except Mark & Bill) left the bar and headed to the meeting room while all the women stayed behind. This is an old school club, but still warm and welcoming to all.

With the party now broken up, we headed back to the boat for the night and took a look at the weather forecasts. It still looked good for us to leave on Monday and run down the NJ coast, but the window was closing and we were starting to wonder if we would be able to leave as planned.

Saturday (9/11) – Great Kills Yacht Club, Staten Island, NY

This morning Denise went for a long run to a part of the Great Kills area that we have not yet explored; the state park that forms the north and east side of Great Kills Harbor. To do so, she had to first run along Hyland Ave. for about a mile, a busy main road with sidewalks. She took this to the park’s main entrance, then ran paths the rest of the way. It was an out-and-back run to the end, passing the Great Kills Marina and a beach that overlooks Raritan Bay. Here are some pictures from her running adventure:

The weather today was pretty spectacular and we were wondering if we should have left today. However, once we checked the actual “observations” offshore, the forecast of high winds and waves were proven to be accurate due to the effects of hurricane Larry; now downgraded but still a factor for Atlantic marine interests. We were then happy we had stuck with our previously agreed to schedule of leaving Monday morning. Looking forward a few days out, we did see the window to leave slowly closing, and that if we didn’t leave on Monday, we may be stuck here for 4 or 5 more days. John C informed us that he did have another boat coming south, and we would have to give up our dock for a mooring in the harbor if we did not leave as planned. We were ok with that as a backup, but set our sights on heading south as planned if the forecast held.

It was a slightly laid back day with Mark doing some engine maintenance while Denise did some food prep for the week. We also found time to work on the blog and do some reading. Mark attempted to finish another book (without Denise interrupting him every 5 minutes) while Denise processed a series of articles that were in her reading queue.

We also had a chance to chat with several of the locals in the club about where they were on 9-11-2001. Few people want to go to any of the local remembrances, and everyone knew someone killed that day. Their stories are compelling as this club has many retired members of FDNY, NYPD, and the various trades (plumbers, electricians, carpenters, etc.) who were in Manhattan on that day.

In the evening, Mark’s sister was hosting a birthday dinner at her home in Oviedo for his mother, who celebrates her 92^nd birthday tomorrow (12^th). As we were unable to be there, we had scheduled a surprise Facetime chat with her. It was a lot of fun and we were grateful for niece Kaitlyn to be present on their end to help those who were more technically-challenged with this great feature. We laughed and had a great time celebrating virtually, and his mom loved our joint gift: a new backup camera for her car – a terrific help for this very independent woman who still drives.

Sunday (9/12) – Great Kills Yacht Club, Staten Island, NY

Our day started with a one mile walk to St. Clair Catholic Church for the 8:00 am mass. We have visited this church before, and love this parish the community. It is also a beautiful church and they still had a memorial up inside the church, for those from their parish that died as a result of the events on 9-11.

Flag of Honor – 911 tribute flags
Saw lots of these on way home from church

After mass we stopped by ““Frank & Sal’s on our way back to the boat. This is a terrific Italian Deli that we have shopped at in the past. They have a small produce section, a large meat counter, shelves with imported Italian food items (think pasta, olive oil, etc.) and a small bakery case with delicious cookies & pastry. However, their deli is terrific with lots of precooked entrées, sides and every day specialties. We came for tonight’s dinner and managed to leave with a few Italian cookies in the basket as well. (Note: we wrote about our visit here in the spring, which you can read about here).

Once back at the boat and after storing our purchases, we spent time on the phone with family and friends that we had not connected with in awhile. It was great to hear what was going on with them, especially since we did not fly home for a weekend this summer as we have in year’s past. However, this still did not dispel Denise’s homesickness and readiness to be in her own home.

In the afternoon, Mark had some engine and other boat maintenance tasks which required him to lift the main salon floor. Rather than being inconvenienced by this, Denise took her computer and went up to the GKYC Clubhouse to work where it was quiet. While she was there Bill (“High Spirits”) came by and said Mark had sent him for help with setting up PredictWind and AquaMaps on his iPhone. These are apps we use for weather forecasts and boat navigation. He is a very low-tech kind of guy and needed hand-holding through all the steps, as well as a tutorial on how to use the apps. For the next hour or so, Denise helped him and got to know him a little better. This is where we learned that he had never been married and that Barb has been his partner for the last 20+ years. They went boating on their first date and have been boating together ever since.

During this time the bar at the clubhouse was getting a little busy, and Bill offered to buy Denise a drink for all her efforts. Mark was called to come up and join us, and when he arrived we all discussed the weather forecast and outlook for tomorrow’s departure. Bill and Barb have a trawler and will cruise slower than us, but are only expecting to get to Cape May. On the other hand, we are looking to take advantage of the predicted flat afternoon on the Delaware River and go as far as Delaware City. However, we must first get down the New Jersey shore which will be the first 6 hours of our trip. Our mutual departure times were discussed (they would leave earlier by an hour) and then we walked back to our respective boats.

In the evening, we warmed up our “Frank & Sal’s” dinner and had a delicious meal on our boat. We then spent time working (and finally) publishing a blog update, and for the first time in a long time we actually tuned in to watch the news of the world. Remarkably we were seeing an abomination unfolding in the Middle East, and 20 years later wondering if this will lead to another attack like those on 9-11. We went to bed heartsick for the lives lost or forever changed because of this evil, and grateful for the warmth and generosity of the wonderful people at GKYC whom we consider friends.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Great Kills Yacht Club, Staten Island

Straight line through Long Island Sound!

Posted on September 20, 2021 | Comments Off

Wednesday (9/8) – Great Kills Yacht Club, Staten Island, NY

We left Essex, CT and headed down the Connecticut River at 6:30 am in order to get as far down the Long Island Sound as possible, before the expected south east winds kicked in. Our hope was to be able to get all the way to Staten Island today, but we knew if it got too rough we could bail out at Port Washington for a free overnight.

Thirty minutes later we past the Old Lyme Bridge, then, the Lynde Point Light, and the Saybrook Breakwater Lighthouse. It was a beautiful morning on Long Island Sound, and we were hopeful it would last as long as possible.

Lynde Point Light at Saybrook – CT River

We ran down the Connecticut side of the Sound for a while, and there was some chop, but not too uncomfortable. After the first hour we noticed the waves were developing a “freshening”, indicating that the wind was picking up and decided to take our chances running on the Long Island side of the Sound for more protection. However, instead of crossing it directly, we made our way on a more diagonal track to meet the encroaching coastline, as the Sound narrows as we headed south. This had us in the middle of the Sound for about 2 hours of our journey, passing only a barge or two, and a few fishing boats. While the waves did not really settle down, they also did not get worse, and for this Denise was grateful. By the time we got to Execution Rocks Light, we knew we could make it to Great Kills Yacht Club (GKYC) where we had already secured our dockage for 4 nights to wait out weather.

By the time we got to the Port Washington area, the waves were pretty flat and we easily cruised around SUNY Maritime, LaGuardia airport, and Riker’s Island Prison.

From there we took turned into the East River, this time hugging the eastern shore of Roosevelt Island in order to avoid the NY Ferries on the western side. We were fighting a current against us, but it wasn’t as strong as it could have been. However, it did have us longing for the 3 knots in our favor we had when heading home in 2019.

Before we knew it we were in NY Harbor with the Manhattan skyline behind us; a sight we never get tired of seeing from the water.

Captain Mark maneuvered through the numerous ships anchored or under way in NY Harbor, and of course the Staten Island Ferries that zoom by at rapid speed. We crossed under the Verrazano Narrows Bridge and turned right into Raritan Bay. Here we expected really rough water as the forecast called for 3 foot waves and chop. Fortunately, we had arrived early enough in the day that we did not face this and made our way into Great Kills Harbor and the GKYC without issue. By 12:30 pm had traveled 108 miles, and had the boat tied up to the dock. We were greeted with hugs by our friend John Calascibetta (aka “John C”) – our Looper Harbor Host, and another friend (Tony) whom we are always happy to see. After socializing for a bit, Mark washed the salt off the boat, while Denise cleaned up the inside.

In the afternoon the winds did pick up as expected, with some strong gusts. Unlike in past visits, this time the assigned slip was on the t-head at the end of the dock, with our bow facing out towards the harbor entrance. As the wind blew in from Raritan Bay it really rocked our boat and slapped the water against the boat hull. Despite this, we stayed on board for the rest of the day as we both had lots of work to do. We also planned a tentative itinerary for the next week that would take us down the NJ coast, and hopefully up the Delaware River in calm seas.

With bad weather forecasted for the evening, we decided not to go out to eat even though there are a plethora of choices (albeit mostly Italian). But we didn’t feel like cooking either. Instead, we ordered a take-out dinner (salads with protein) from Marina Café; one of the local restaurants up the street from GKYC. The food was good and we were happy to stay hunkered down for the rest of the night.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Great Kills Yacht Club, Long Island Sound, Staten Island

Passing the Narragansett – On to Essex!

Posted on September 15, 2021 | Comments Off

Tuesday (9/7) – Essex, CT

As soon as it was light and we ate a quick breakfast, we left the Acushnet River Safe Boating Club (ARSBC), rounding Crow Island and leaving the New Bedford-Fairhaven harbor behind. We made it through the hurricane barrier, passed the Butler Flats Lighthouse and Fort Rodman and cruised into Buzzards Bay. Unlike 2 days ago, it was a beautiful day on the water.

Because of our stopover in Fairhaven, we no longer needed an interim stop in Stonington before reaching our desired destination of Essex, CT. This is a place we have wanted to go to for a while now, and with a beautiful day like today we should have no issues in getting there. Of course we still had to cross the Rhode Island Sound, the Narragansett Bay and Block Island Sound; all three are open bodies of water that are notorious for being unruly in certain conditions. Denise’s main goal was to get past the Narragansett without having to go up it to outrun a hurricane. In our last two adventures coming back from Maine (2017 & 2019), we ended up in Wickford, RI for extended periods of time which lengthened the journey home. Today we are hoping to break that pattern.

Given the open water and so few boats in our way, we were able to cruise at 20 knots on a course heading mostly south, making our way through Buzzards Bay. We slowly turned southwest and scooted through the channel at Dumpling Rocks spotting the beautiful Round Hill Mansion on to our right.

Afterwards we turned on a more west-southwest course, crossing the state line into Rhode Island and saying good-bye to Massachusetts. We were now in the Rhode Island Sound and started to feel the swells coming in from the Atlantic Ocean. These however, were not the predicted swells from the remnants of Hurricane Larry, expected to be felt on the eastern seaboard on Thursday. As we approached the Sakonnet River, just east of Newport, things got a little bumpy but tolerable. Still, a bit too bouncy for picture taking.

As we approached Newport and the Narragansett Bay, things got a little more bouncy and uncomfortable, but nowhere near as bad as Sunday on Buzzards Bay. We kept going, knowing that we only 15 miles to cross the Bay. Finally, just before 9:00 am we approached Point Judith and its beautiful lighthouse.

It was in this area that we could also see the outline of Block Island to our left. However, with our distance from it and the direction of the sun, we were not able to get a good picture. We had 17 miles to go before we would hit our next milestone, Watch Hill and the Fisher Island Sound. Remarkably, things settled down as we entered the Block Island Sound and continued to improve as we headed west. Finally, we could see Watch Hill and the landmark Ocean House Resort to our right, and Fishers Island to our left.

We entered state of Connecticut and skirted the NY state line to our left as we made our way through Fishers Island Sound. We continued west until just before New London, CT where we pulled into the Shennecossett Yacht Club (SYC) for a fuel stop. Captain Mark had shopped this and determined that if we got fuel here we should not need any more until we got to Cape May, NJ. The channel into SYC is easy to spot because the UConn Marine Sciences center sits out on Avery Point and you can see it for a few miles.

After we finished with the fuel up, we headed back out the channel and into the Fishers Island Sound until it ends by merging into the Long Island Sound. We cruised close to the Connecticut side of Long Island Sound, passing the landmarks of Seaside Sanatorium – a Connecticut State Park, and Dominion Millstone Power Station.

Seaside Sanatorium – a Connecticut State Park

After another hour of calm seas and easy cruising, we turned right into the Connecticut River. The breakwater is marked by the very visible Saybrook Breakwater Light, and followed by the Lynde Point Light. Over the years we have seen boats with a Saybrook hailing port, but did not know exactly where that was. We now could see the nice houses that surrounded the entrance here to the river.

We continued north up the River, going under the Old Lyme Draw Bridge and the I-95 Bridge, and passing several marinas along the way.

Eventually, we came to the town of Essex on the western shore, but we were headed 2 more miles up the river to a mooring in nearby Hamburg Cove for the evening. We entered the cove and picked up one of the “rental” moorings. It was a beautiful cove surrounded by lovely houses and was very well protected.

We had traveled 84 miles arriving at 12:30 pm and happy to have made such great progress. It was a beautiful day on the water and if we had not wanted to visit Essex, we would have stayed on the calm waters of Long Island Sound as far as possible. However, we had reservations for dinner at the Griswold Inn and definitely had to visit this much talked-about town.

The Griswold Inn goes back to the American Revolution and has a rich history, including its use in movies, TV shows and books, which you can read about here. But it is the connection (perhaps in name only) to it by one of our business associates (Bob Griswold), that really made us want to come. Bob’s ancestry dates back to Windsor, CT in 1638 when “Edward”, came over from England with his half-brother, Matthew. Edward was a solicitor for the colony and later moved to Killingworth, CT; named for his English hometown Kenelworth. Killingworth is now Clinton, CT. Matthew moved to Old Lyme area and one of his descendants later became governor of the colony, and later established the town of Griswold near Jewett City. However, Bob is not sure if the Inn was ever owned by a Griswold from his direct heritage, but he certainly came from the ancestry.

As the afternoon wore on it got hotter on the boat, and the well-protected cove offered no breeze for relief. It also got a little buggy, and we were contemplating turning on the generator to run the ac. We also learned the mooring ball rental was not $25 but $40. As we considered the distance from the town and how we will have to take our dinghy back from dinner in the dark, we started to wonder if we made the right call in choosing this location. After a few phone call inquiries, we located an available mooring at the Essex Yacht Club (EYC) back in town, and left Hamburg Cove to move the 2 miles back into the Connecticut River.

Once at the EYC, we were directed to mooring about 200 yards from shore, and were informed the launch service would end at 6:00 pm. We would have to use our dinghy to come and go for our town visit and post-dinner transportation back to the mooring. That was fine with us, so we launched the dinghy, went to the dockmaster’s office at EYC and checked in. Here are some pictures of this lovely yacht club.

After checking in with the dockmaster and getting the requisite information, we walked the quarter mile into the downtown area. It was later than we would have wanted and because of that we missed visiting the Connecticut River Museum which closes at 4:00 pm. However, we still discovered a lovely town with buildings from the late 1700’s and 1800’; many still lived in by local residents. We walked around for a bit and went into a few of the stores that were still remaining open (most closed at 5:00 pm), and then went to the inn for our 6:00 pm reservation.

We were a little early, but they were able to accommodate us so we got seated right away. The dining room is filled with some very old original paintings of all things nautical, and because of this it is dimly lit. However, it was so fascinating to eat around all the rich history, and to learn a little bit more about the inn. Along with the guest rooms upstairs, there is the dining room, an outdoor eating area, and a bar (called the Tap Room) with its own rich history. It is truly an interesting place to visit and we were glad we came.

After dinner we walked by a few other marinas, and the small ferry (think boat launch) that takes people the 100 yards away to Essex Island, where there is also a marina and a restaurant. Here we saw the beautiful classic yacht “Annie Laurie”.

We then went to the public dock and the museum for a nice view of the moored boats in the harbor, including ours – in the middle of all those sailboats.

Finally, we headed back to EYC and launched the dinghy to head back to the boat. And that’s when the dinghy engine stopped, as if it had run out of gas. We were 100 yards from our boat and after several attempts to restart it, began troubleshooting the problem. We had gas, but it seemed the engine was not getting it. There were no leaks in the line, but no fuel either. Finally, as the sun was getting lower in the sky, we broke out the oars and rowed the remaining way to our Island Office, then stowed the dinghy for the night. We were resigned to the fact that we will have to solve this issue when we are back in a marina and have some daylight.

All of this played out while we watched the sailing club send out launches to rescue their sailboats that got stranded when the wind died, wondering if they could also rescue us. And about the same time we watched as another classic yacht (“Black Knight”) pulled up to the dock at EYC. It was a beauty and nice sight to stare at until the sun completely set on our adventure in Essex.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Connecticut River, Essex, Fairhaven, Fisher Island, Narragansett

Favorite Friends in Fairhaven!

Posted on September 12, 2021 | Comments Off

Sunday (9/5) – Fairhaven, MA

We were up early and left Constitution Marina just before 7:30 am as we had a long day planned. Although it was overcast skies, the wind was fairly light and we were hoping it would stay that way so we could go a long distance today. Our ultimate goal was to reach Stonington, Connecticut, but that was quite aggressive and we would be happy to even get to Newport, RI if that was as far as we could make it.

We headed out of Boston Harbor, leaving this ever-growing skyline behind and made our way through the south channel to the Bay of Massachusetts. This route took us around several rock islands and not far from the Boston light. It was a little bumpy on the Bay, but very tolerable at this point. We had bailouts planned for the entire route, including at Situate, a place we have wanted to stay, but not on Labor Day weekend. It was only 1 hour out of Boston and we were comfortable enough to continue with our journey.

We ran somewhat along the shoreline, but only because we had to stop for fuel. Around 9:30 we pulled into Green Harbor near the town of Marshfield and pulled into Taylor Marine to fill up our tank with diesel. This is the cheapest fuel in all of Massachusetts and they go through about a 1000 gallons a week supporting the local fishing fleet and other cruising boats. One of the Taylor family members assisted us with the fuel up and shared the history of this multi-generation marina and fuel stop. He also told us how the area was used in many movie shoots including “The Finest Hours” – a terrific movie about a daring Coast Guard rescue off of Cape Cod during a blizzard in 1952.

Entering Green Harbor River – Marshfield

After our fuel stop we headed back out to the Bay, and soon afterwards we passed Plymouth Lighthouse and the town of Plymouth.

Just 20+ miles later we approached the Cape Cod Canal. It is easy for us to know where it is as just inside of the canal is the large power plant that is visible for miles offshore.

We entered the canal and although we had tried to time it so we would have the current in our favor all the way to the western end, it didn’t work out that way. It was neither slack nor outflowing, but more like conflicting currents that moved our boat around a bit. We had to cruise at a slow speed because of our large wake (the canal has a speed limit too), which made fighting the cross currents a bit more challenging than if we could have powered through it. But Captain Mark handled it well and we cruised along under all the bridges and past the Massachusetts Maritime Academy.

And as we headed south, so did the water conditions. We went from a bit bumpy due to conflicting currents (expected) to full blown unexpected rough seas in no time. We were now on Buzzards Bay but still within the breakwater, and the conflicting currents against the west wind bounced against the breakwater and really stirred things up. Add to that the boats that passed us throwing huge wakes, and we were looking at 4 foot waves with whitecaps and chop coming at us from all sides. Mark had to slow the boat down and Denise had to sit in her helm chair to keep from falling. We decided we would not stay on Buzzards Bay, and immediately considered our bailout options, knowing wherever we ended up would be a two-night stay due to impending weather.

Of immediate consideration was Marion, where we stayed in 2017. It is not a well-protected harbor but it was only 2 miles away. Mark suggested we at least press on to the New Bedford-Fairhaven area, but it meant 8 more miles in the sloppy waters. Denise agreed and thankfully, the new course put us into a somewhat more comfortable ride so we could speed up the boat to 20 kts again. However, it was still a miserable 8 miles until we could turn into the channel and be protected by the land to our south.

In the meantime we had called Brian (“Pennywise”) the TowBoatUS operator and our friend at the ARSBC who told us when we left in July that we would always have a slip when we wanted one. He put us in touch with PJ, the dockmaster there, who confirmed they had a spot for us on their guest dock.

By the time we got to the breakwater, we had been in communication with Jean, who was at the dock to meet us, along with her husband Marsby and another of our friends (Anthony) to help us with the tie up. They gave us a great “welcome back” greeting, set us up with key fob for entry into the clubhouse, and Wi-Fi pass code.

It was just before 1:00 pm and although we had already gone 77 miles, we were disappointed we did not get further. However, this is part of the adventure, and in 2 days we would continue our journey further south, hopefully getting past the Narragansett Bay. For now, we will wait out the coming bad weather and enjoy our time with our old friends at ARSBC.

Once we settled the boat, we were now hungry for lunch, but today we felt like we deserved a bit of a celebration with our usual fare.

Brian came by to say hello once he got home from his (TowBoatUS) tow, and advised us that Penny was out of town for the long weekend; sadly we will miss her. We chatted for a while and once again he offered his generous hospitality. Mark requested information about a diver who could put the zinc on our shaft as the one in Boston was unable to do so before we left. Brian said he did, but the guy had a commitment for tomorrow and since we would be leaving the next day it wasn’t going to work out. This will have to wait until we are in a location for more than a day or two.

All afternoon it was very windy and it remained overcast, eventually the rain came but it was just drizzle and not the heavy rain that was expected. We spent the rest of the day hunkered down: Mark had some catchup emails to work on and Denise worked on a blog posting. We chose to eat dinner on the boat, in part because we had learned that nothing is open in the area on a Sunday.

Monday (9/6) – Labor Day, – Fairhaven, MA

We woke up this morning and it was still overcast, although it was forecasted to clear up. Because it was still windy and the boat was bouncing a lot, we chose to go up to the clubhouse to do some work. Yes, it was a holiday, but we had work to do and wanted to take advantage of the WIFI which was much stronger at the clubhouse then on the dock.

The clubhouse was quiet and comfortable, we had the whole place to ourselves, and we were able to get a lot of things accomplished. We left only for lunch, then returned back afterwards for a good bit of the afternoon, enabling us to even get a blog posting done. It was really weird how the ARSBC was so quiet now compared to how it was when we were here over the July 4^th holiday.

Since the weather cleared up during the afternoon and it was nice and sunny, we decided to grill out for dinner. Mark cooked us steaks on the club grill while Denise roasted some potatoes and made a salad. We then confirmed our plans for departure tomorrow and settled in for the night. Mark had his nose in a Tom Clancy novel (there was actually one he had not yet read) while Denise organized and cataloged pictures until we went to bed.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Fairhaven

Boston Again!

Posted on September 11, 2021 | Comments Off

Tuesday (8/31) – Boston, MA

Tuesday (8/31) – Boston, MA

Denise was up very early this morning, craving a cup of coffee, but with the generator not working, she was not going to get one. She would have to tough it out, even though she was sleepy; she had a restless night as she was anxious about the open water passage of today, hoping not to get seasick and concerned about encountering big waves.

The Snow Island anchorage area was as still as it could be and was breathtakingly beautiful. There was no wind and the water was so peaceful. At 5:30 am the large yacht (“Sattori”) at the north end Snow’s Island pulled up its anchor and soon thereafter headed out of Quahog Bay. About 5 minutes later its wake met our boat and created the only ripple on the water.

Mark was up early too, and at 7:00 am we disconnected from the mooring, and headed out into Quahog Bay. We made our way down the bay and into the Gulf of Maine. We had plotted a direct course that would take us right by the Twin Lighthouses of Thatcher Island, just off the coast of Gloucester, before turning towards Boston harbor. This meant we would be running up to 15+ miles offshore in some places, just like when we headed north a short 7 weeks ago.

It was an overcast morning with some salt spray in the air, but no fog, rain or high winds. Thankfully, we had flat seas and it was smooth going. Our course had us bypassing some places we have already been (Portland & Kittery) and missing places we have wanted to go to, but once again cannot make it into our itinerary (York, Isle of Shoals, Gloucester). There were many boats out on the water today, but most of them were sport or commercial fishing vessels. However, about 2 hours into our trip we passed “Satori”, who was cruising along at 13 knots heading south.

Just before 11:00 am we could see the windmills on the shoreline of Rockport, MA, and then we bypassed the Twin Lighthouses of Thatcher Island.

We then changed our course heading more west-southwest and picked up the channel to enter Boston Harbor. It was here that we faced the roughest water all day, and most of it was caused by the traffic in the harbor. We passed a large ship at anchor, but the wakes from the barges in tow, the dredge boat, the high-speed tour boat, and other watercraft had us bouncing around a bit.

Finally, we approached the Charles River and the Constitution Marina, where once again we were able to secure transient dockage for the next week, hoping to leave right after Labor Day. It was just before 1:00 pm and we had traveled 106 miles without issue; for this we were very grateful.

Unlike in past visits where we were tucked further into the marina, this time our slip assignment was on the outer dock facing downtown. At first we were not too happy with the assignment as it meant we would take the brunt of all the passing boats (mostly recreational) all day long. We would also have the new (Washington Street) Bridge construction right off the bow of the boat. We were told, however, that after the weekend we would be able to move to another slip.

After settling the boat and checking into the marina, we went back to the boat to get some work done. We had emails and calls to make, and we made contact with our Back Cove cruising friends Chuck & Victoria (“Argento”), hoping to be able to see them while here. We spent the entire afternoon cocooned to the boat, only leaving for brief breaks to talk with some of the locals, as well as a cruising couple from Pensacola. We also watched the motor yacht “Sattori” whom we had passed earlier in the day, pull into the marina on the long dock.

We were tired, and as much as we wanted to venture to the North-end for dinner, we decided to stay in the Charlestown neighborhood where the marina is located. We walked the half mile to Monument Tavern, a place where Victoria & Chuck took us in 2019 and had a terrific meal there (again). On the way home, we went for a walk through the marina, checking out “Sattori” and the Fleming boat that was docked by them. Come to find out it was “End Game”, whom we met here in July, and saw again in Southwest Harbor Maine. However, the owners were not on the boat and it looks like they were away for the weekend.

Once back on the boat we attempted to stream a movie (“Suicide Squad”), but we didn’t get very far into it before Denise was falling asleep. It had been a long day after a short night’s sleep and so we went to bed to get a good night’s rest.

Wednesday (9/1) – Boston, MA

Fully refreshed from a good night’s rest, Denise went for a run this morning, only she took a different route than usual when here. This time she went north along the Harborwalk Boston path, running past the USS Constitution, up and down the piers around Charlestown Marina, and up to the Spaulding Rehab Center that overlooks the Mystic River. She then turned around and came the same way, happy to finally have some flat land to run on. Unfortunately, the hills around Boothbay Harbor last weekend wreaked havoc on her left leg and now she is nursing a possible injury. Here are some pictures from her run:

After breakfast and getting our day organized, Mark worked on the generator impeller issue and was able to get everything fixed. He was also able to schedule a diver to install a new zinc on the shaft, reducing the opportunity for electrolysis to eat away at the metal. Our previous protection (prop shaft brush) had deteriorated and needed to be replaced, but is no longer made so a substitute was required. Mark had done the research for the alternatives, ordered it, and had it delivered to the marina.

In the meantime, Mark had previously reserved a rental car, which we will use for the next 2 days. We have a lot to get accomplished, including driving 1.25 hours to visit Denise’s Aunt Judy who lives in New Hampshire on Thursday. Right after lunch we got picked up by Enterprise and we were able to then spend the afternoon running our errands.

Our first task was to ship our starboard-side window blind in for repair. It broke late last week and Mark had been working with the Ocean Air people to determine what the best course of action would be: repair or replace. These are very expensive and customized to fit the angle of the Back Cove windows, so repair was the most likely choice. Of consideration is that they are manufactured for Back Cove as a complete set and to make a single new one would have had color-match and other issues to deal with. Therefore, we had to ship our current one to the repair facility, and sought out to find a Fed-Ex location to do this.

As you can probably imagine, the blind is a unique length and finding an appropriate container was a challenge. We worked with the people at the Fed-Ex not far from the marina, but their largest tube was too short so we had to find a longer shipping tube, or come up with a different solution. We investigated office supply places, Walmart, Target, etc. all in the nearby shopping center, but most of these don’t stock the product; it has to be ordered from their website with a 2-3 day delivery. However, it was at Home Depot that we found our solution: the inner core from rugs or carpet sections that people buy pieces of. We had 2 of the most helpful guys assist us with cutting it to length and then suggesting how to cap the ends for protection during shipment, which is just exactly what we did. The one guy told us they have people come in all the time that have to ship their custom blinds back to the factory and this is exactly why he saves the tubes. What a find and what great customer service! Once we got that resolved, we drove back to Fed-Ex to ship the blind.

Nearby the Home Depot and not far from the Fed-Ex place was the Costco we were planning to visit as well. So we stopped there on our way back to Fed-Ex and picked up a few things, including alcohol (yes, this Costco does sell it and wine in their store). Once we were done with shipping the package, we went to the Whole Foods near our marina for a few items, and picked up ‘to-go’ dinners as we were not in the mood to go out or cook. Mark got fried chicken and Denise a teriyaki salmon dish that was really delicious. From there we went back to the boat with all our purchases and settled in for the night.

During the afternoon it had begun to rain a bit, first a little bit of drizzle and by 9:00 it was a torrential downpour. This was the remnants of hurricane Ida that we were anticipating and for which we came to Boston for safe harborage. It was supposed to rain all night and it did. It poured and was so loud on the boat’s roof, that at one point it woke us up. But it eventually calmed down and by the time we got up in the morning it had stopped and the storm was no more.

Thursday (9/2) – Boston, MA

Today our adventure took us north to visit Denise’s Aunt Judy in New Hampshire, via the rental car. We left after 9:30 am to let the Boston traffic die down before heading out, and this worked well. We had no issues and made it there as scheduled. After visiting for a while at her house, with the assistance of her home-health-aid, we took her to Newick’s for a late lunch. This is a local restaurant that is almost tradition for family to go to when visiting Judy, and it is always good. It turned out to be a nice sunny day and we enjoyed our window view overlooking the water; the top of the Piscataqua River.

After we had lunch, we went back to Judy’s house and visited with her for the rest of the afternoon. It was great to get caught up on what is happening in each of our lives, discuss politics, religion and our hobbies. But most importantly it was great to see her. We have been fortunate to get up to NH and see her every year or two, and we really wanted to make this visit happen. We stayed until we could see she was getting tired, so around 7:00 pm we said good-bye and headed back to Boston.

Taking advantage of the rental car, we stopped at a Walmart for a few things, and then Panera for a late dinner before going back to the marina. We arrived at the boat just after 9:30 and were so tired we went to bed almost immediately. It had been a long but fun-filled day and we were glad that our plans all worked out.

Friday (9/3) – Boston, MA

Although the sun was out in the morning it was quite windy and not a good day to travel or be on the Massachusetts Bay. We were here for at least 2 more days until the seas settled and allowed for a comfortable passage south. But the time in port was welcomed as it enabled us to get a few things done, and allowed us to have a little down time which we needed.

In the morning, Denise went to the 7:00 am First Friday mass in the chapel at St. Mary’s. It is as beautiful as the main church, which we always look forward to visiting when here.

After he handled a few work calls, Mark headed out to return the rental car, making a last-minute grocery stop to get our perishable items for the week. Meanwhile, Denise started the laundry, taking advantage of 3 washers and dryers to get most of it done as expeditiously as possible. However, because our slip this time was so far from the marina facilities, it was a long walk. She averaged over 500 steps with each trip back and forth, not to mention the gangplank to the docks that were a challenge at low tide.

During one of these trips she stopped to talk to the captain of the yacht “Sattori”, who was washing the tender for the yacht that was docked in the corner of the finger pier we had to walk down to get to our boat. They talked about cruising down from Snow Island and he recognized our boat name as he had been tracking our AIS signal as we passed him. The yacht has a South Florida hailing port and they discussed the operations of the yacht, cruising from Florida and how the owners were coming aboard for the long weekend in Boston, then they would be staying on through Tuesday before heading south. She left him to get back to work, then returned to our boat, just in time for lunch.

We spent the afternoon handling some work items, reviewing upcoming weather forecasts and putting together a tentative itinerary for next week. We also talked with a woman who lives aboard her boat in the marina, who informed us that later in the evening there would be fireworks in Boston Harbor. They usually have them on Thursday before Labor Day, but because of the storm they had postponed them to Friday evening. She told us we would have perfect viewing from the bow of our boat.

Our dinner decision for the evening was easy: we headed across the bridge and over to the North End for a delicious pizza at Regina’s Pizzeria. When we were here in July we let someone talk us into trying another place, but it we didn’t like it as much and we were anxious to get back to Regina’s. We went early and timed it perfectly as we got a seat at a table right away. Naturally, it was delicious and we had plenty to take some home for leftovers. When we left and saw the usual long line outside, we were glad we came early. On the way home we were tempted to stop at Bova’s (24 hr.) Bakery and pick up some goodies, but we resisted the temptation and headed back over the bridge and back to the boat.

At 8:00 pm, the fireworks started in the harbor, but they were high enough we could see them over the buildings across the river; they were directly in front of our boat. We didn’t even need to go out on the bow as we had a terrific view just sitting in our helm chairs. It only lasted about 20 minutes, and it reminded us that on Labor Day weekend 2015 we were also treated to Fireworks in Chicago when we were on the Great Loop; you can read about that here.

Saturday (9/4) – Boston, MA

The morning started for Denise with a run down the Charles River near MIT; a route she has now taken many times. However, unlike in July, this time there was no “Nancy” to run with. But, she was happy for a flat and familiar route that required no thinking about where to turn. Although it did not bother her during the run, her left leg was very sore the rest of the day and now she is concerned with a possible injury. This is not good as she is supposed to run a Half Marathon in October and this could impact her future training long runs.

We spent the entire day hanging around the boat, talking with some locals, and spending time on the phone with friends and family. It was a good day to reconnect with folks who were afar, but unfortunately, we were not going to be able to meet up with our Boston friends Victoria & Chuck on this visit. We will have to try and schedule a meeting with them when they are back in Delray Beach, FL for the winter.

In the afternoon we walked to church for the 4:00 pm mass at St. Mary’s. This is really a beautiful church and we enjoy visiting it when here. Sadly, we have yet to attend a mass when it is even half full.

For dinner we decided to venture to the North End and eat at an Italian Restaurant (Giacomo’s) that we had been to in 2017. We thought we were sufficiently early to not have to wait (they are FCFS only), but by the time we walked over the bridge and got to the restaurant, the line was at least a 45-minute wait. We checked out another place we had heard was good, but their first available table for non-reservations was seating for 8:30 pm. That was just too late for us, and the lines at all the nearby places were getting long too. Plus, by now we were hungry. We figured we could not go wrong anywhere on Hanover St., so we walked up a few blocks, checked out the Google reviews and settled on “Bencotto”. There we had to wait only 15 minutes before a table opened up for us, and then we were seated inside. It was a delicious meal that was reasonably priced, and we were happy with our choice.

On our way back to the boat we had decided to stop at Bova’s Bakery and pick up some cookies to take with us for our journey south. But once we saw the line here, we decided it was not worth the wait, and we really didn’t need the calories. Just like the Charleston Bells by the locks (closed to pedestrian traffic due to the bridge construction), this too would be missed on this stop in Boston. We made our way back to the boat and prepared for an early departure in the morning. We had our sights set on a long day on the water, and hopeful to make it further south.

During our time in Boston on this visit, the “indoor” mask mandate was put in place, but only if you are in the city limits. It has become a huge joke here as many of the surrounding towns are not requiring it and many people come into the city from those communities. The Whole Foods near us required it, but the Costco we were in earlier in the same day did not because they are outside city limits (but only 3 miles apart). On Hanover St, some of the restaurants are enforcing it, and some are not; they are very vocal about having the government tell them how to run their establishments.

Here are a few more pictures from our stay in Boston this time:

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Boston, Charlestown, Snow Island

Tourists, Resorts, and Pristine Settings!

Posted on September 9, 2021 | Comments Off

Friday (8/27) – Boothbay Harbor, Maine

We were treated to a glorious sunrise in five islands and spent about an hour talking with Doug, who had used his dinghy to come over to our boat and give us a boat card. Here we learned even more information about the area around Five Islands, Georgetown and Malden Island. He is so interesting and was a great conversationalist. We also came extremely close to a sailboat that had taken up the mooring left by the even larger sailboat from the day before. This is definitely not a good place for mooring boats larger than 40’.

We had a short cruise to Boothbay Harbor so we were not terribly concerned with getting under way; after all this was a pretty nice spot to just hang out. Eventually, Captain Mark called the marina and confirmed that we could arrive early as our assigned slip was available.

We Left Five Islands Harbor, passing Malden Island to our right, and spotting Doug’s house on the point as we left. We could have headed south and taken the Gulf of Maine Route around Cape Newagen, but instead we decided to take the “back way” through Townsend Gut again.

Once leaving Five Islands, we turned north up the Sheepscot River for less than 2 miles, hugging the eastern shore, then we rounded Dogfish Head (and the wild house with its dog sculpture ) and entered Ebenecook Harbor.

House on Dogfish Head – Entrance to Ebenecook Harbor

We cruised for a mile through the harbor and then turned right rounding Cameron Point and entered the Townsend Gut, heading south this time. Less than a mile later we came to the Southport Island Bridge, only this time we had hit it at low tide and had sufficient clearance to get under without requiring an opening.

We continued through the Townsend Gut and at the southern end rounded Juniper Point and entered Boothbay Harbor. Here we passed an outgoing large yacht (“Stay Salty”) towing their tender, and the American Cruise Line Ship “American Constitution” who was moored in the harbor.

We made our way around McFarland Island and into Tugboat Inn & Marina where we picked up our slip for the next 2 nights. We stayed here in 2017 and once again reaffirmed this was one of the better places for us to stay. It is incredibly convenient to all the action, without being disturbed by the loud nightly music, and it is an affordable option. Our main reason for coming back to this otherwise very touristy place, was that we knew they had a Catholic Church and we could go to mass there on Sunday morning.

Once the boat was settled and we checked in with the marina, we ate some lunch and then handled a few work items during the early afternoon. Later, Mark washed the salt off the boat and did a few maintenance items.

Denise went for a walk to the Hannaford’s located on the outskirts of town, to pick up milk and a few other items. We had been told there was a trolley that runs around Boothbay Harbor and out towards Hannaford’s but the route could take up to an hour depending on the direction. Not wanting to have to wait up to an hour at the store for the pickup, Denise opted for the walk. It was a mile each way and she wanted the exercise, but it was so hot (87°) that it almost felt like 5 miles. This was truly our hottest summer yet in Maine and we are missing the cooler weather of years past. Here are some pictures of sites along the way:

We spent the rest of the afternoon and evening hanging out around our boat, talking to some of the locals and then visiting the Tugboat Inn restaurant for a simple dinner. It was good, but nothing spectacular and we wanted to eat and get back to the boat for the night.

Saturday (8/28) – Boothbay Harbor, Maine

Denise started the day with a run that first took her out of the downtown area to the Hannaford’s, then back along the eastern shore of Boothbay Harbor. She ran the route as far south as she could go until she came to the resort at the end of the road called “The Spruce Point Inn”; a mix of inn, hotel and home sites along the shore. She then turned around and too a small side road near the water, returned back to the main road, then back to the marina. Here are some of the pictures from her run around Boothbay Harbor:

After breakfast we got down to doing boat chores. Mark washed the boat completely (not just a salt water rinse off) and got all the bugs and other debris from our two previous stays away from a marina. Denise concentrated on the inside of the boat, scrubbing just as hard. This division of work allowed us to get our chores done without taking too much time. But Mark had a “project” chore that he was going to tackle after lunch. He wanted to clean the bilge in the engine room and it is a very messy job that he had been putting off. It also requires lifting of the main salon floor to access the engine room. Denise left Mark to do some “souvenir” shopping because it is easier for her to be gone from the boat when he does this. Otherwise, she would be confined to a small space in the main stateroom or guest quarters; as if 37’ of boat isn’t small enough!

Denise walked through just about every store (and art gallery) in the Boothbay Harbor area, and reaffirmed that this is definitely a touristy town. However, there are some great restaurants here, and we ended up eating at one for dinner that our friends Mark & Jenay (“Ravello”) had recommended. “The Boathouse Bistro” overlooks the northern part of Boothbay Harbor, and the pedestrian footbridge. It was a lovely view and the food was very good. Afterwards, we walked around the harbor for a little while, looking at the different marinas, once again confirming that we had chosen the better of those on this side of the harbor.

Throughout the last two days we had a chance to talk with some of the locals, including a few who live aboard their boat all summer. They told us how the marina is open year-round (we can’t imagine) and that those that leave their boats in the water get rearranged so the outer docks can be used by the lobsterman boats (who otherwise are on moorings in the harbor). It really is interesting to see how everything changes here in the 5 months of summer (May through October) and that lobstering really does rule all of their lives.

During our stay in this busy harbor, we watched several tour boats come and go from the commercial harbor. Depending on who knows what criteria, sometimes they would pass very close to our boat as we were on an end-tie at the marina. They were so close that a couple of times we could hear the narration of the tour, and even passenger’s comments admiring our Island Office.

Sunday (8/29) – Boothbay Harbor, to Sebasco Harbor Resort – near Phippsburg, Maine

Our day started early as we wanted to go to the 7:00 am mass at Mary Queen of Peace Church. We took the footbridge across the harbor and down the street for the half-mile walk to the church. The mass was said by the same priest as we had in Bath last Sunday. He has 3 churches to support and the mass schedules are staggered to enable time to travel between the various churches. There is no Saturday evening service here, and we took the earliest mass time today as we were leaving Boothbay Harbor today.

Inside Our Lady Queen of Peace Catholic Church

Fisherman’s memorial at Our Lady Queen of Peace

After mass we walked back to the boat and made preparations to leave, which we finally did at 9:30 am. Here are some additional pictures we took of the Boothbay area:

We didn’t have far to go (less than 20 miles), but our trip required us to go back out into the Gulf of Maine and we wanted to do that when the winds were calm in the morning; they usually pick up in the afternoon and then settle down again in the evening.

**Boothbay Harbor to Sebasco Harbor Resort**

We left Boothbay Harbor and entered the Gulf of Maine, with overcast skies, and light winds, but enough chop on the water to spray the bow of the boat with salt water. Near 10:00 am we passed by Seguin Island and then rounded Cape Small. We took the near-shore channel through the ledges heading north, and made our way to Sebasco Harbor Resort, passing Sebasco Harbor to our right. Sebasco Harbor Resort is located in Sebasco Estates, not far from the town of Phippsburg (near Bath).

When we arrived at the Sebasco Harbor Resort, we first went to the floating dock so we could hose all the salt off the boat. We then went to our assigned mooring for our 2-night stay, which was pretty much in the middle of the harbor. There was a little wind in the harbor, but it was not uncomfortable and we were able to be comfortable on the boat while getting a few things accomplished.

During the rest of the morning and into the afternoon we spent planning and re-planning our next week of itinerary stops. This became a challenge as we were juggling many things: certain destinations we want to visit on the way home; weather forecasts (remnants of Ida); visiting Denise’s aunt in New Hampshire; ability to get/not get a rental car; boat parts requiring shipping points; and our goal to be in the Chesapeake Bay by the end of September. We also had to take into consideration the cancellation policies of any potential marinas, making sure we could be near a Catholic Church on a Saturday or Sunday, and coming up was Labor Day weekend – an expensive boating weekend in New England. All of this can make one’s head explode! Given this, we chose to leave the Casco Bay area and go directly to Boston (once again) on Tuesday, directly from Sebasco. Here we knew we could rent a car, drive to see Denise’s Aunt, provision the boat well for the trip home (think Costco), and easily go to church. We could also enjoy the weekend a bit in a fun city. With this settled, Mark called Constitution Marina in Marina and made reservations for us to stay until Sunday.

Later in the afternoon, we took the dinghy to the Resort to explore the area. It is a very nice place with a very large swimming pool, tennis courts, golf course, recreation center (including candlepin bowling), fitness center, spa, ice cream shop, coffee shop, and plenty of outdoor picnic areas with beautiful gardens. The resort has an inn as well as condos, and several different size cabins to rent (perfect for a family reunion). They also offer daily fishing charters as well as boating charters (sail or motor yacht) with a captain. There is free use of bicycles, kayaks, paddleboards, etc. and is geared for all age groups. It is a beautiful, if not older resort in lovely surroundings. You can learn more about Sebasco Resort here.

Unfortunately, the main restaurant (The Pilot House) was closed last year due to Covid and did not reopen for public dining this season. However, the Ledges Pub and Patio Bar was open and we had a very nice meal on the patio, overlooking the moorings and our boat. After dinner we walked around a bit more, then took the dinghy back to our boat for the rest of the evening.

The wind had picked up a bit and the moorings were a bit rolly from the waves out of the south. Reviewers had commented on this feature, but it was certainly tolerable for us for the night. We agreed to review this for tomorrow if it got any worse, but for now it was not as bad as our night at Hurricane Island.

Monday (8/30) – Sebasco Harbor Resort – Snow Island, Maine

We woke up in the morning and checked the weather forecast for the day. It was already getting rolly in the harbor and the winds and waves were expected to pick up as the day went on. We really didn’t want to stay if it got worse and considered our options for leaving. We originally were going to Dolphin Marina (near Harpswell) for our last night in Maine, but on this day they were closed for an employee appreciation day prior to their fall hours. Plus, we had reserved for 2 nights at Sebasco and were not sure we would be able to cancel the second night’s mooring fee. We also knew that Snow Island was between Sebasco and Dolphin Marina, and offered great protection if the wind was going to blow out of the south. We had visited Snow Island in 2017 for the very same reason. Further making this an attractive option was that Ken & Kim (“Reel Tradition”) whom we met in Portland offered the use of their mooring ball in the cove there. Since we were headed ashore for some morning fun, we agreed to talk to the dockmaster then about canceling the second night.

We took the dinghy ashore and Mark addressed the issue with the dockmaster, who immediately issued a credit for the second night, without a hassle (have we mentioned how much we love Maine). We then got the free bikes and drove all around the resort, including a few areas we are sure we weren’t supposed to go to because they were “off property”. After about 30 minutes of riding the one-gear bikes over dirt roads and hills, we went back to the resort and stopped near the inn for a game of “ring toss” (like they have in some bars but this one used an old tetherball pole), and then returned the bikes to the golf pro shop.

Having now made the decision to move to Snow Island we wanted to get underway before the wind and waves got too bad. It was a short cruise through inland waterways with it all from behind, but we also had things to do. When we arrived at the float to get in the dinghy, it was already blowing quite a bit. The dockmaster told us things were going to get really bad when it came time for high tide, and he fully understood our decision to leave. We hurried back to the boat, secured the dinghy and stowed our items, and got ready to leave Sebasco Harbor Resort.

At 10:25 am we unhooked from our mooring ball and headed out of the Sebasco Harbor, turning right and making our way through the marked channel around the ledges (rocks).

We came through the pass at the top of Yarmouth Island and entered Quahog Bay. This is a beautiful bay that runs through the middle of Sebascodegan Island and is lined with lobster wharfs and oyster farms. At the top and in the very center of the bay is Snow Island, and there are anchorages and mooring balls throughout the area. It is really a beautiful place buffeted with high trees and lots of wildlife. It was also one of the first places we visited in Maine in 2017, and we fell in love with the place back then.

We turned just south of Snow Island and slowly made our way to the cove where the mooring ball for “Reel Tradition” was located. Before leaving Sebasco we had confirmed with Kim (& Ken) that their ball was available and we could use it for the one night. As we approached the cove we could see someone else was on their ball (done all the time in Maine), but they moved when we told them we had confirmed permission to use the ball for the night. We had traveled only 5 miles in less than 30 minutes and it was like we were on another planet. The water was very calm and the land to our south blocked most of the winds that had continued to pick up all morning.

We settled into getting some work done, emails and working on a blog post, in a spectacularly beautiful setting. During the afternoon we had a chance to watch a bald eagle land and perch in a tree on the nearby land. It was an awesome sight and this time we caught it on camera:

We also were visited by a pump-out boat, offering free services in order to keep the area free from human waste and pollution. Although we were not full up, we took advantage of this, but offered a small contribution to the cause. The pump-out boat is part of the Quahog Bay Conservancy, a not-for-profit started by the owner Snow Island in order to cleanup and preserve Quahog Bay’s delicate ecosystem. It is so successful that Snow Island Oysters are some of the best known and desired in all of Maine. You can learn more about this wonderful organization here.

That evening Captain Mark took cooked some delicious burgers on the grill while we watched boats and wildlife all around us. As we were cleaning up we decided to run the generator to charge the batteries and our electronics, a nightly thing when at anchor or mooring. But tonight it would not stay on, and we knew it most likely meant the impeller had to be changed. Having done this before, Captain Mark got out the spare, raised the floor of the main salon and went to work to replace the old impeller. While he did all this as normal, there was still an issue with a slight leak of water due to a pinched gasket (small rubber part) and it worked, but not without the water leak. Since it there was no pressing issue to run the generator, and since it was getting dark (and he was already using a light), we decided to forego the additional work necessary to pull it all apart and replace the small gasket. Denise could live without coffee in the morning, and we could repair it when we were at Constitution Marina in Boston. In the meantime he ordered a spare via Amazon who should have it to the marina in Boston by Friday.

We settled in for the night and watched another great sunset; our last in Maine for 2021. Tomorrow, we will leave this great state, bypass New Hampshire and make our way south to Massachusetts. We are headed home!

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Boothbay Harbor, Five Islands, Sebasco Harbor Resort, Snow Island

Sheepscot Surprises!

Posted on September 6, 2021 | Comments Off

Wednesday (8/25) – Oven Mouth Cove, Maine

Before heading out today, Denise was went for a short walk around the marina property and Riggs Cove, including near the original Riggs home built in 1785. She ventured to the cemetery where Riggs family members were buried, some dating back to the early 1800’s. It was not easy to get to as it is located behind the marine center and where there is equipment blocking the entrance, but it was worth the adventure to see more of the history of this area.

Marine Center operations – office and storage

We were not anxious to get under way as it was forecasted to be another hot day and leaving the dock meant no air conditioner unless we ran the generator all day. However, we had stayed at Robinhood long enough, and we figured it would be breezy once we got on the Sheepscot River. Also, since we were going to an area where people frequently swim around the anchorage, and we may be tempted to do so as well. Finally, around 9:30 we left Robinhood marina and made our way around the ledges and into the channel on the Sheepscot River.

We cruised north up the Sheepscot River dodging lobster pots everywhere, including in the middle of the channel. We were surprised by how many there were, even 8 miles upriver from the Gulf of Maine. But the scenery was lovely and the numerous houses on both sides of this wide river was beautiful. This is a much more populated area of Maine, as it is not far from Boothbay Harbor.

We turned up the Cross River, also lined with beautiful homes and wonderful scenery, and eventually turned into the channel to Oven Mouth. Here it became very narrow and we had to stay in the middle of the channel to avoid the shallow (and rocky) shoreline at low tide.

Once through the narrow channel we entered Oven Mouth Cove. We discovered this much-touted place was more like a lake then a cove, and could clearly handle 50 boats at anchor; it was very wide open and there was a lot of room. We sought out the shallowest spot (13’) as identified on our charts, and recommended by the many Active Captain reviews. After driving around for 20 minutes and unable to locate it even at low tide, we settled on a spot in the 19’ range, dodging the numerous lobster traps in the area. Fortunately, we have sufficient anchor chain and rode to handle the depth when it is high tide (10’ more) and still feel comfortable that we will not move even if the wind started to blow hard. Unfortunately, it did not. But the best part was we instantly spotted the cell tower and had terrific cell coverage.

It was a very hot day, and despite it being a large cove, the air was blocked by the hills around it. We were able to stay in the shade and spent the day doing a little work, publishing a blog update, reading, watching the lobster boats check their traps, and observe a few recreational boaters come in for a swim, then leave. In essence we had the entire place to ourselves. At one point Denise stuck her feet in the water, and although tempted to go for a swim, it was still way too cold for her.

In mid-afternoon it got really hot, with no breeze. We considered leaving this beautiful cove to move closer to the ocean where we might get the prevailing southern wind to cool us off. But, we decided to stick it out. Finally, in late afternoon when we were dying of the heat (89°), we put on the generator and cranked up the air conditioners. We ended up running them for 3 hours, allowing us to eat dinner in a bug-free and cooler setting.

Shortly after dinner we received a very unexpected and welcomed visit from Troy (“Band Aids”) who is the AGLCA Harbor Host for mid-coast Maine. We had been in email communication with him and he had been tracking us on NEBO the whole time we have been in Maine. When he saw we had finally made it to Oven Mouth Cove, he came out on a small boat to visit us; his house is located not far from where Cross River splits off of the Sheepscot. It was a delight to have a visitor and we enjoyed talking to him for a while. He informed us that the dock we could see at the south end of the cove was where John Monroe (famed telecom billionaire) has a house, and his large yacht is usually parked there. This explains the cell tower and terrific signal strength in this area.

Troy left as the sun started to dip behind the trees and it wasn’t long thereafter that it got dark. We saw millions of stars in the sky in this area of little light pollution, and it cooled down enough for us to get a good night’s sleep without having to run the generator again.

Thursday (8/26) – Five Islands – Georgetown, Maine

As the sun came up, we were treated to a spectacular sunrise and a few seals swimming in the harbor. A few lobster boats came in early to pick up their traps, but we were the only boat that spent the night in the anchorage. Denise went out in the cockpit to take a few photos and was shocked. During the night we had been inundated with millions of bugs, and they were all over the boat. It was disgusting!

It wasn’t long after Mark got up and finished breakfast, that he suggest we head out to our next adventure: our destination was 8.5 miles back down the Sheepscot River and to Five Islands Harbor near Malden Island. Around 9:00 am we pulled up the anchor and made our way back through the narrow entrance and into the Cross River. We then turned left and headed south down the Sheepscot River, reversing our trek from the day before. We cruised just past the area where we would have turned into Robinhood, but continued a little bit further south, passing MacMahan Island to our right and entering into the channel for Five Islands Harbor.

We made our way around the many moored lobster boats and pleasure crafts in search of one of the free moorings offered by the Five Islands Yacht Club (FIYC). As we were struggling to figure out where these were located, we pulled close to the dock on Malden Island and asked a guy on a sailboat at the dock there for directions. He gave us the information we sought, and we were able to secure a mooring in a great spot. However, we did notice that there were several boats (including a large sailboat) that were much too large for the mooring field and one of these boats was incredibly close to us when the wind shifted us all around. One of the Active Captain reviews had warned of this and we now understood what they meant.

We spent the rest of the morning finishing up on some work items, and then we ate lunch. We also noticed the sailboat from the dock on Malden Island was now on a private mooring ball next to ours. We later met “Doug” (“Kalitan V”), the guy who helped us out, but will discuss him later.

In the afternoon we published the last blog update, and then decided to go ashore and give our legs a little time on land. Mark took the dinghy out for a quick spin around the harbor and to identify the dinghy dock, then came back to get Denise.

From there we went to the mainland, which is part of the village of Georgetown. This area is on the same peninsula as Robinhood and is bordered by the Sheepscot River to the east, and the Kennebec River to the west. The village is a misnomer as there is no real main street, but there are a few spots of interest besides the Five Islands Harbor area. One such spot was the Five Islands Farm, located about a half a mile from the wharf on “5 Islands Rd”. We walked up the hill along the road, which had no shoulder, but because it is all residential there was little traffic and most of the passing cars went slow. We arrived at the Five Islands Farm where we purchased a tomato and some tart apples, but did not buy one of their freshly made blueberry pies (it was tempting).

We headed back down the hill towards the wharf encountering a few interesting sights along the way:

Once back in the harbor area, we went to the Five Islands Harborside General Store, a small souvenir shop that overlooks the water and is also a fuel stop. It has a few convenient food items, but mainly here is where people come to buy their wine and beer and take it back to the Lobster Company (lobster pound) as they do not sell any alcohol there.

We left the General Store, figuring it was getting late and we should get in line at the Lobster Company before the line got too long. When we arrived we discovered there was already a line and we were going to have to wait a bit just to place an order. This is an interesting lobster pound because the rolls and sandwiches are ordered in the first (main) building on the wharf, but the lobster dinners, steamers, muscles, and oysters are ordered in another building behind it. Mark wanted a lobster roll and Denise wanted steamed lobster so we had to split up and each get our own meal. We then grabbed one of the few available spots on the picnic tables overlooking the harbor to enjoy our early dinner. It was a beautiful day, even though it was hot, but the breeze off the ocean made it very comfortable. We were glad we came early as the lines that formed after us had people waiting at least 15 minutes just to order, and another 20 -30 minutes to get their meal. It is definitely touristy and more expensive than several of the other lobster pounds we have been to, but it was just as delicious. We did pass on the ice cream which is located in a 3^rd separate building on the wharf.

After dinner, we took our dinghy back to the boat and talked with family on the phone. We also noticed Doug was on his boat, and had a talk with him across the water between our boats. Here we learned he is a 5^th generation landowner on Malden Island, the exclusive island located just south of the moorings. He gave us a lot of information about the area, and told us a lot about the 9 homes and their owners on Malden Island. There is a dining hall that is on the premises and has a full time chef and staff (or did until Covid hit) and the islanders can eat all 3 meals there. There is an expected minimum number of meals they must eat (like a country club minimum) and most of the islanders are from the original founding families like himself; although that is changing. It was fascinating to hear his stories, and to learn that he lives all but a few months of the year on the island; he spends the winter months on the mainland because his island home is poorly insulated and has no heat. We ended the evening watching a nice sunset over the harbor, but were so busy talking to Doug that we forgot to capture it in a picture.

Tomorrow we leave for the weekend in Boothbay Harbor, but we are very glad we came here. It is a beautiful spot and comfortable, even with the crowded moorings and we were pleasantly surprised at how much we liked it here. We will come back here again!

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Five Islands, Oven Mouth Cove, Robinhood

Out-running Henri!

Posted on August 30, 2021 | Comments Off

Friday (8/20) – Derecktor Robinhood marina, Georgetown, Maine

We had left Port Clyde early to outrun the remnants of Tropical Storm Fred that were forecasted to provide deteriorating sea conditions as the day wore on. Although not a threat to us because it was so far offshore, the waves it produced will eventually make their way north and impact our comfort level. As much as we hated to leave the Penobscot Bay area, we needed to press on west in order to hit the few remaining places we hope to visit before heading south towards home.

When we headed out of Port Clyde, we immediately hit fog, once again (and for the last time) crossing the Muscongus Bay. However, the fog lifted soon after entering the Bay, and we were able to turn off the radar due to increased visibility.

Running in fog with chart plotter & radar

We rounded Pemaquid Point and the Ram Island Lighthouse, only this time instead of passing south of Squirrel Island, we turned into the channel towards Boothbay Harbor.

We cruised north of Squirrel Island heading west, passing the Burnt Island Lighthouse (not to be confused with the Burnt Harbor Light in MDI area) and turned up the channel that is known as the Townsend Gut. This is a back way to run up towards the Sheepscot River, and other waters. We arrived in perfect timing to hit the half-hour opening of the Southport Island Bridge, a swing bridge that has restricted openings in the summer.

Just before the bridge is a cove with a popular restaurant on the water (Robinson’s Wharf & Tugs Pub) we have read about, but never visited. It was too early to stop for lunch, so we pressed on through the bridge and continued through the Gut, dodging the ledges (aka rocks) that lie just outside the channel.

We eventually came to the Sheepscot River where we crossed it and made our way around the top of MacMahan Island into Riggs Cove; location of Derecktor Robinhood Marina and our home for the next few days. We pulled into the fuel dock for a fill-up and then moved over to our assigned slip. .

Once the boat was settled, we went to check in at the dockmaster’s office. We were pleasantly surprised to learn that in addition to a BoatUS discount on the fuel, they also offered a discount on our dockage. We reserved the loaner car so we could use it on Saturday afternoon to go to Bath (15 minutes away) for church, and then to dinner. We then went for a quick walk around the marina complex and then back to the boat to do some work and further planning.

Our main reason for coming to Robinhood was the protection it offered. We had been tracking hurricane “Henri” and its forecast track had it turning right and skirting the New England coast. We wanted as much protection as possible from the swells that would come up the rivers, and the marina was also preparing accordingly. We were advised that we may be asked to move to a mooring, or to turn our boat around in the slip (bow forward), but they would make that call on Saturday. Meanwhile, the protection it offered, also provided a stillness on this hot day, and we found the humidity brought out the bugs and especially the mosquitoes. We were forced to run the AC once again.

In the evening, we hoped to have dinner at the “Osprey”, the restaurant on-site that had been recently taken over. It had received rave reviews and we had remembered the old one from 2017 as being mediocre, so we walked over in the afternoon to put in a reservation for a table. Unfortunately, they had none available, but we could take our chances at the bar, or at their 3 small patio tables outside on a FCFS basis. We chose instead to order pizza from their wood-fire stove they had installed in the spring. As they limit their take-out orders during the rush hour, we opted for a 5:30 pm pickup and Captain Mark agreed to walk up the path to the restaurant to get it at the appropriate time. It was pretty good food and we enjoyed it, but we are still missing Antonella’s back home in Winter Park.

That evening, the marina was hosting a local folk-singing artist for a small outdoor concert near the gazebo in the middle of the grounds. We were reluctant to attend in part because it was not our type of music, but also because it would require sitting outside with all the bugs. However, we could easily hear the music from our boat, but it was not so loud it kept us from a good night’s sleep.

Robinhood marina – Gazebo area for music performer

Saturday (8/21) – Derecktor Robinhood marina, Georgetown, Maine

It being a Saturday, it was a day for Denise to get in a run, even with the hills and a shoulder-less road. By leaving early she was pretty sure she would not encounter much traffic (she didn’t) and she had mapped out a path that kept her off the main highway. Outside of the marina property, the entire area is full of private residences, most of which are summer “cottages” and some are rental property. At the corner of one of the roads, there was the Robinhood Free Meeting House where they have community concerts and Tuesday through Friday they offer a breakfast. The entire route was very really pretty, but the heat and humidity had her feeling like she was back in FL on this August day. She did see a few other runners, and one other walker out along the course, so that gave her encouragement to keep on with the run.

Temperatures at run time – Like FL in the morning!

The rest of the morning and early afternoon we spent working on boat chores, cataloging pictures, and then starting on a blog post. In the late afternoon, we got the marina loaner car and drove over the Kennebec River, and into the town of Bath. We went to attend the 4:00 pm mass at St. Mary’s Catholic Church, and to grab some dinner in this very cute town.

After church, we went to Beale Street Barbeque, located on Waters Street in downtown Bath. Denise suggested to Mark that they probably got the name from Beale Street in Memphis, as it is a famous street there, and known for its barbeque places. This particular joint was celebrating 20 years, and they served up a good amount of barbeque ribs (Denise) and brisket (Mark) enabling us to take some home for another meal.

Since we had the car, we took advantage of and went to a local “Shaws” grocery store. It is not our favorite New England grocery chain, but it sufficed for a handful of the basics we required. Afterwards, we drove back to the boat and settled in for the rest of the evening.

Meanwhile, all day we had been watching the forecasts for the remnants of Henri, now headed north through Connecticut and New York. If we were going to get anything, it would be rain on Sunday. Therefore, the marina did not request us to move to a mooring or change our boat around. But in the morning, they had moved a large “California” yacht from an end-dock to just behind us, near the haul-out wharf and across the dock. At high tide, this acted as a barrier between us and the dockmaster’s office where the WI-FI antennae was, and we were unable to get a signal. Since cell coverage was almost non-existent here, this was a real pain because we could not even carry on a phone conversation with family and friends, all of whom were concerned for our well-being. It also meant that we could not stream any shows in the evenings, so we reverted to reading our books for a nice change.

Sunday (8/22) – Derecktor Robinhood marina, Georgetown, Maine

It was a foggy and overcast day, but the weather was not nearly as bad as was forecasted earlier in the week. We knew there would still be rain and wind later in the day, but it was now diminishing in its intensity, which was now expected in the afternoon.

Over the last few days we had conversations with a couple on a Caliber 38’ sailboat (like our old one) who were a few slips away from our boat. They had told us that the laundry at the marina was not in great shape and they found another one near Brunswick, just west of Bath. So, shortly after breakfast when we learned no one had requested the loaner car, we used it to go to their suggested laundromat and get done a few loads of laundry. It just so happened that it was near the Walmart and near a NAPA auto store, so we could also get a few other errands done at the same time. Mark dropped Denise to do the laundry while he went to Walmart, then on the way back to the marina we stopped at NAPA to return an item; one less thing to carry on the boat.

In the afternoon the rain and winds finally came, and we took advantage to work on the blog, read, and to cook a delicious dinner on the boat. It was much less intense than originally forecasted, and for that we were grateful.

However, at 3:00 am, we were awaken to an electrical issue (surge from the dock power?) with alarms going off and our electrical panel flashing; it was crazy. We were able to turn off all systems and circuits and investigate, but found no breakers thrown, even on the dock power pedestal. Mark reset everything anyway and we did not find any issues. When he turned everything back on it was all ok, so we went back to sleep, mostly.

Monday (8/23) – Derecktor Robinhood marina, Georgetown, Maine

Today was a most uneventful day. It was rainy off and on, but no wind to speak of and once again hot. We spent the day working inside, conducting business, working to publish a blog update, and began work on the next one.

In the morning, the marina moved the big California yacht out from the wharf and haul-out area, enabling us to get a good Wi-Fi signal. This was great as we were able to receive and send phone calls, which we spent a large part of the day doing, both with clients, family and friends.

At one point we took a break and went for a walk around the marina complex, just to stretch our legs. There is much history with this marina, which originally started as a trading post, then a shipping port and was originally known as “Riggsville” after one of the founding landowners. Within the complex they have several of the original buildings including: the General Store, which now serves as a marina business; the Library; and The Gallery, originally the Post Office and now a museum of the history of the area. However, it is very much a working boat yard and marina, with constant activity and a “home base” for many seasonal boaters. You can learn about this fascinating place and its role in history here. Here are some pictures of the area:

We also had been admiring the “Mary E”, a schooner that was in the marina, but we saw no one take out for charter or work on all weekend. We learned from a local that this was a charter boat that had capsized in late July in the Kennebec River with 15 passengers and 3 crew on board. We had remembered hearing about the story and wondered if a cause had yet been determined. Apparently there is no official information out there, but you can read about the story here.

That evening we had a low-key dinner on board, and we streamed a movie for a while, until Denise started falling asleep. We both went to bed early hoping for a better night’s sleep and no surprises.

Tuesday (8/24) – Derecktor Robinhood marina, Georgetown, Maine

Denise started the day with another run in this very hilly area, but a shorter one than on Saturday. She took pretty much the same route and saw the same houses. The rain had stopped and the sun was now out, but it was a very hot 82 degrees, especially for Maine.

We were supposed to leave today and our plans called for two night anchoring in Oven Mouth Cove, a night at 5-Islands on a free mooring (if we could get it), and then to Boothbay Harbor for the weekend. All of these destinations are no more than 5 miles from where we currently are and we had some flexibility in the schedule. We made the decision to stay another day, taking advantage of shore power to run the air conditioners, and to get some projects done. Once the marina gave us the ok to stay, we settled into getting some of them done.

Denise managed to publish another blog update, and Mark tackled the tedious task of replacing our port navigation light. This required emptying everything from the anchor locker, which he put on the deck of the boat, and then crawling into that small space to get to the light. It is a real pain, but he did it and now we have a working port-side running light again. We also had some client work to do, and we laid out an itinerary for the following week of adventure.

Mark inside anchor locker – he’s really in there

In celebration of our hard work for the day, Mark used the marina grill and cooked us some delicious steaks for dinner. We were happy we got so much accomplished and that we had decided to stay another day. Tomorrow we would leave and head out for another adventure to a few new locations we have yet to explore.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Port Clyde, Robinhood

Port Clyde Revisited!

Posted on August 26, 2021 | Comments Off

Thursday (8/19) – Port Clyde, Maine

We were in no hurry to leave this morning as our trip to Port Clyde was only 20 miles and it was mostly open water where we could cruise at 20 knots. Denise went for a quick walk around downtown to take a few last minute pictures, and then after breakfast settled down into work for a few hours. We were quite happy to wake up to a dry main salon with no leaking windows, despite the rain from last night.

Finally, at 11:15 we left Rockland under cloudy and overcast skies, with minimal wind. There was a little fog hanging around the cliffs at Owl’s Head as we rounded the point and took the channel through Owl’s Head Bay, but visibility was good and we didn’t need radar at all.

We cruised along passing lobster pots and the islands along Muscle Ridge Channel and Whitehead Light as we had now done 2 other times on this adventure. Finally coming up to Mosquito Island and entering the channel to Port Clyde with the Marshall Point Lighthouse marking its entrance.

We arrived at the mooring ball just off Larry & Diane’s dock, hooked up without issue, and Larry was on the porch with a hello wave. We settled in for a quick lunch, then deployed our dinghy over to their floating dock and tied up. We spent a few minutes of meeting with them, and then we went off for a walk into town to do some exploring. Along the way we passed a nice park (Annie Jones Collins Memorial Park), the Post Office, the Ocean House Inn, a few churches, and finally the General Store. Here we purchased some milk and then headed back to the dinghy, then back to the boat to get ready for our meet-up with our Port Clyde friends.

During our afternoon the fog came in pretty thick, and rain had been threatening. We managed to make it from the boat back to Larry and Diane’s for drinks, and Dolly & Mack joined us. Here we got to see Larry’s car, a “Minor 1000”, made by Minor Motors in the UK which he has fully restored. You can read about these cute cars here. Mark even got to ride in it as we all headed out to “The Barn”.

And that is when it began to sprinkle. By the time we arrived at The Barn, it was pouring raining, which probably kept the crowds to a minimum. But shortly after we arrived, the place started to fill in with the locals. Of course our hosts know everyone and we met some of their friends.

The Barn is owned by Linda Bean (of LL Bean) who also owns rental property and has the Andrew Wyeth gallery in town. It is definitely a locals spot and is located across from the General Store. It is eclectically decorated (to say the least), and the focal point is the u-shaped bar that takes up over half the room. The rest is filled with overstuffed chairs, couches and benches for socializing.

After a few rounds of drinks and socializing, and when the rains seemed to subside, we drove to the Black Harpoon for a second visit and had another wonderful meal.

Finally, the rain subsided and we said good-bye to Mack and Dolly before heading back to Larry & Diane’s. Although they welcomed us to stay awhile and visit, even spend the night, we knew we needed to get back to the boat and prepare for tomorrow. We thanked our hosts for another wonderful visit and promised to come visit again.

We took the dinghy back to the boat, hoisted it back on Island Office and settled in for the night. All night long it rained and our boat was cozy and dry on the inside. We were so happy to have the new windows and this issue now behind us.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Port Clyde, Rockland

Replacements in Rockland!

Posted on August 25, 2021 | Comments Off

Saturday (8/14) – Rockland, Maine

In the morning of this beautiful place (Seal Bay), there was a bit of fog hanging over the rocks and trees; it was so eerie, but so Maine! And in no time after sunrise, the fog burned off and we were treated to a seal feeding on the fish.

We could have stayed here for days, but we were not going to be able to. There was bad weather forecasted, we needed to go to church, and we had now two appointments with Back Cove scheduled. So, just after 9:00 am we pulled up the anchor and left Seal Bay. Here are some remaining pictures of this beautiful place.

We left the channel at Seal Bay and rounded Calderwood Neck on Vinalhaven, with an interesting structure sitting on the promontory point.

We headed back around Widow Island and the eastern end of the Fox Island Thoroughfare, passing the boats in the harbor at North Haven and eventually heading out across West Penobscot Bay.

It was a short destination today (<20 miles) with a direct shot into Rockland Harbor from the Fox Islands Thoroughfare. We passed the Breakwater Lighthouse to our right, and dodged the ferry and lobster boats, both creating large wakes that smashed across the bow of our boat. Additionally, it was Saturday and there were lots of pleasure craft and sailboats all around. It was difficult to set up the boat for docking until the very last minute, but finally we were able to pull into the assigned slip at Rockland Landing Marina.

Once the boat was settled, we went to check in at the marina office where Kevin, the owner provided us with the necessary information for our stay (Wi-Fi password, bathroom codes, etc.). We then went back to the boat, ate some lunch, and then worked on emails, cataloging pictures, and starting the next blog posting.

IO – 1st slip at Rockland Landing Marina

All morning we had watched the forecasted rain get pushed out, and we could see on weather radar that it was eventually coming. Finally, around 3:00 pm the bank of dark clouds could be seen just over downtown Rockland, and then it started to rain. With it came some very violent wind and lightening, not unlike a summer thunderstorm in Florida. Fortunately, it didn’t last all night and it cleared up in the late afternoon.

In the evening, we walked into downtown for dinner at “Rustica”, a restaurant we ate at in 2017 and were anxious to go back and enjoy. There were no tables available, but again there were seats at the bar that we took and were happy to reconnect with “David”, the bartender who waited on us then. Denise loved their eggplant parmesan, so she ordered it, and Mark got his usual: chicken parmesan. Both were as delicious as we remembered and we had a great time talking with David and hearing about their 2020 and 2021 challenges in the restaurant.

After dinner we walked around town a bit and took a few pictures of some of the sights of Rockland. We then walked back to the marina and were treated to a beautiful sky at sunset.

Sunday (8/15) – Rockland, Maine

One of the benefits of returning to places you have been is you know what is there and how to get around. We knew there was a Catholic Church in Rockland and had looked up the mass times on the internet, double-checking for any Covid-related changes. We also knew it was a mile uphill from the marina, and with fair weather we could walk to and from church, which is exactly what we did. We attended 8:00 am mass at St. Bernard’s and was happy to see they were not suggesting the wearing of masks (like so many other churches now).

After mass we walked back through the downtown area and saw artists at work painting the murals on the sides of an old building. This community is very arts-oriented with the Farnsworth and Wyatt museums located right downtown, and the Transportation Museum located out towards Owls Head and the airport. We visited all of these museums when here in 2017 and you can read about our post here.

Once back on the boat, we had a series of boat chores to do; Mark worked mostly outside while Denise worked inside. Defrosting the refrigerator took less time than expected because it was so warm outside. However, it is still a big job and by the time it was finished it was time for lunch. But not before Mark got in his favorite domestic chore of all – vacuuming!

During the day we had a chance to meet some of the seasonal slip holders, all of whom have been very nice to us. Mark began talking to one who offered the use of his car. Denise started talking with a guy (Ray on “Seal of Approval”) who come to find out knows Kenny Eaton in Castine; Eaton’s is where we stayed in 2017 and 2019. He also knows Bill Weir, Denise’s business associate from Winter Park and Kenny’s stern-man on his lobster boat. They are all friends and Ray has gone “lobstering” with them. We chatted for a long time and then Denise felt compelled to contact Bill and tell him we were not going to Castine on this visit, but would connect with him in Winter Park when we are back home in the fall. We also met Ray’s wife Marion, and they both offered us the use of their mooring ball should we go to Holbrook State Park, near Castine. We are so appreciative of the generosity of the people we meet, especially in Maine.

In the evening we walked to “Claws” for a dinner of lobster rolls. This is one of our favorite spots to get a lobster roll, as they pile on the lobster meat. We took the Rooks clan here when they were with us in 2019, and they too were impressed. But even though we arrived early for dinner (5:30) there was the longest line we have ever seen here. We had to wait a while, but because of a newly added deck, there was plenty of seating. The food and view were terrific and the view is one of the best in Rockland.

On our way back to the boat we strolled through the downtown area and took note of which places would be open on Monday and which would be closed (many). We then returned to the boat and settled in watching a little TV for the rest of the night.

Monday (8/16) – Rockland, Maine

Denise started the morning with a long out-and-back run on the footpath around Rockland Harbor, past Sandy Beach and up around the neighborhood and out towards Owl’s Head. Here are some pictures from her run:

Sunrise at Sandy Beach – over Rockland Harbor

Today was a work day and a day committed to working on the blog; we are way behind at this point. While Denise spent most of the day on this task, Mark was able to borrow one of the local’s car and went to the grocery store. When he returned, he spent the rest of the day on conference calls or working for our clients. He also confirmed our meeting with in the morning with Jaime (BC National Sales Manager).

We also had a few conversations with local boaters who would temporarily tie up to the end of our dock and pick up crew. One such conversation was with a woman Denise met named “Janet” who looks very similar to a running buddy (Doreen). The resemblance was uncanny and forced Denise to do a double-take when she saw her from afar.

Come to find out Janet was on a Kady Krogen and knows our friends Mack & Vicki (“Confetti”) whom we cruised with on the DE Loop and had dinner with in Beaufort, SC in April. Another small world story.

In the afternoon, Keith (BC Manufacturing Engineer) came by to see about our windows. He came dressed in work clothes and wanted to meet us then take a look at the windows. He did so and then said he would be back tomorrow to test out a few things.

The rest of the day was unexciting, and other than a short walk after dinner onboard, we were treated to a very nice sunset.

Tuesday (8/17) – Rockland, Maine

Today was a busy day, starting with our breakfast meeting with Jaime (Back Cove). We had a nice conversation getting to know one another and discussing our many adventures on our boat. He said he was unaware of anyone that had put more miles on a single boat; they have some people that have had several models and cumulatively they may be close to our 22,000 nm. It is possible they may want to do a feature on us in the future, but right now all the marketing information is about the introduction of the new 37’ model (called 372) they are launching at the Newport Boat Show in September. We really don’t care either way and it will be interesting to see how this develops.

After our meeting, we split up in order to accomplish a few errands: Mark went to Walgreens then back to the boat, while Denise went to the Post Office to retrieve a package they were holding; apparently the USPS does not recognize the marina’s address, only their PO Box. Funny UPS and Fed-EX deliveries come right to the marina. After the PO stop, Denise did some minor souvenir, and gift-shopping at a few stores downtown, and stopped by Hamilton’s to pick up a boat cleaner before returning to the boat.

Meanwhile, Mark went back to the boat to meet with Keith (from BC). He tried a few things and they ran a test, but it didn’t work. He decided it would be best to replace the plastic tracks on which the glass slides, and would return on Wednesday with a set. He also mentioned that they have one remaining set of windows in their inventory that they have no use for (they changed the windows out on the new model and they are no longer building the old one). He had been in discussion with customer service, and suggested the windows could be taken out and replaced with those in inventory. This is a big job and one that will require lots of scheduling on our part, so it is really our last resort. We discussed our options for this and decided that it would be best to do that while we were in Rockland and have the Back Cove resources available. We would have to work around some incoming bad weather, now forecasted for Thursday, and Keith would have to investigate the resources to do it. However, he was still hopeful that the plastic tracks would fix the issue.

During our first day’s stay, Kevin (marina owner) mentioned that we would need to move our boat if we stayed past Monday as the seasonal slip holder was returning. Since we were originally planning to stay until Wednesday morning, and now we needed to possibly stay until Friday, we were going to have to move the boat. As soon as the previous occupants left the new location, we moved our boat to a side-tie on the main dock – about 50 feet and directly perpendicular to where we were.

Based on the information that Keith shared, that afternoon we cancelled our plans to go back to Perry Creek on Wed. and extended our stay in Rockland. Mark confirmed with the marina that we could do the work there, and that we could stay through Friday in order to get this resolved.

Meanwhile, we had already put the newly acquired steaks in the freezer for a future night at anchor. But since we had nothing defrosted to cook for dinner, we decided to go back to Rustica. Once again we sat at the bar, although David was off tonight. We still had a terrific meal and highly recommend the place.

Wednesday (8/18) – Rockland, Maine

Taking advantage of being tied to a dock (and not an anchorage or mooring) Denise went for another quick run in Rockland.

Shortly after she was back and we had breakfast, Keith returned with new plastic slides and he went about replacing them in both sets of windows. It didn’t take very long and when he and Mark did a test, we still had water coming in the starboard side. Our only option now was to replace the windows in our boat, and since we are in Rockland where the factory is, it makes sense to have it done here. Keith already had the team at Back Cove working on how they could make it happen, and communicated they would start at 1:00 pm today. We were still worried about the weather impacting this project as well as our travel plans, but everyone felt like this was the best option.

Just before lunchtime, Chris (Back Cove) came to the boat and introduced himself, to see our boat, and what he and his team would be facing. He said he would be back after lunch, and at 1:00 the team showed up. Besides Chris, there were 3 other guys (a mix from Production and Engineering), and they were absolutely amazing. Within 30 minutes they had both windows out. We were shocked because originally they were talking about doing one on Wednesday and the other on Friday. Now it meant they would replace both sets today.

All afternoon they prepped for the new windows, then insert them into the holes in our boat where the old windows were. There is some millimeter adjustments that they had to make and they used a new material that acts like a popup sponge and expands to fill gaps; it never contracts. This is very different than the old hard gasket that was part of the older (9-yearold) assembly process.

Doing the water leak test, one of the windows was not setting properly. At one point they swapped out one of the team members with the “windows guy” from the plant. In fifteen minutes and with the help of his “tools” he had the adjustments all done and we now had windows that did not leak.

By 6:00 pm the team was done and we had our boat all put back together: we had removed all the salon cushions and personal items, and stowed everything from the galley in the guest stateroom. We celebrated with some much deserved cocktails and dinner on board. And in the evening it started to rain and we had no leaking windows.

Now we had a decision to make: when to leave Rockland? Should we stay through the weekend, or go on to Port Clyde as planned so we can join our friends for Thursday nights at “The Barn”. Of significant consideration was the tropical storm Henri, who was threatening to be a hurricane by the weekend and would bring rain and wind to the coast. It would not be a good time trying to make a passage across any of the bays after Friday, and Port Clyde is so close to the open water it would not be a place to stay beyond Thursday night. With this in mind, we decided to leave Rockland in the morning and go to Port Clyde for one night. Then we would head up the Sheepscot River, just west of Boothbay Harbor and go to Derektor Robinhood where we stayed in 2017. It is extremely protected, and they have a loaner car we can use to drive to the nearby town of Bath and go to church. Mark called for slip availability and we were able to get in, so that became our plan for the next few days.

Here are some other pictures from Rockland:

Entrance gate – Rockland Landings Marina

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Rockland, Seal Bay, Vinalhaven Island

Sanctuary in Seal Bay!

Posted on August 24, 2021 | Comments Off

**South Portland to Seal Bay – Vinalhaven**

Friday (8/13) – Seal Bay – Vinalhaven, Maine

The day started with one final run in South Portland for Denise. She took the path through Bug Light Park, and again along the South Portland pathway, but today she ventured back into the Ferry Village and the eastern shore of Portland Harbor. Here she ran past the USCG Sector Northern New England, and also discovered an old church-turned musical theater.

Once back on the boat, we made plans for departure, pulled out of our slip and went to the fuel dock for a fill-up and a pump out before leaving Portland. It was a clear and beautiful day with a slight breeze that had Denise a little concerned with the waves we might face.

We pulled out of Spring Point Marina, leaving Fort Gorges in our wake and the Spring Point Light to our right. We also got to see Fort Preble from the water.

We cruised the channel between Jewel Island and Cushing Island, with its high cliffs that blocked the waves and wind. As soon as we came out of the protection of Cushing Island and entered the open Casco Bay, we faced rolling swells of 2′ -3’ on our side beam. This was most uncomfortable and Denise was worried about getting seasick. Fortunately, our course had us turn in a more northerly direction as we headed towards Cape Small, and by the time we passed Sequin Island things were far more comfortable.

Once again we passed by the Cuckholds lighthouse, and Squirrel Island near Boothbay Harbor, only this time we could see them clearly as there was no fog.

We rounded Pemaquid Point and entered Muscongus Bay once again, cruising past Eastern Egg Rock where there was a tour boat showing passengers the puffins (if they are still there this late in the year).

It was nice that it was clear and we had no fog for this 3^rd pass of this area on this year’s adventure. We even got to see the Whitehead Lighthouse and the beautiful coast of Whitehead Island.

Just after noon we entered into West Penobscot Bay and soon thereafter passed by the Fiddlers Ledge day beacon and into the Fox Islands Thoroughfare (FIT). Again, for the first time on this trip we had no fog and got to clearly see the Fox Ears islands (with its US flag flying high) and cruised through North Haven Harbor.

Fiddler’s Ledge Daybeacon – Camden Hills in background

This time however, we continued east through the FIT passing the farms on the north shore of North Haven Island, before turning right just before the Goose Rocks Light, and passing Widow Island to our left.

We continued southeast around the Calderwood Neck on Vinalhaven Island, and turned into the channel for Seal Bay. From here there are numerous rocks and ledges and (naturally) lobster pots to navigate around. But taking it slowly we were able to dodge them all and find a nice place to anchor in about 15 feet of water (at low tide). It was 1:30 pm when we ended our voyage and felt comfortable with the anchor’s set.

This bay is quite large with lots of different places to anchor, and when we arrived there was already a good number of boats here, including 2 yachts, a 3-sailboat raft up, and another Back Cove right near us.

We spent the rest of the day taking in the scenery, watching people take their dogs to the rocky islands in order to do their “business”, and watch the boats coming into or leaving the anchorage.

We hung out on the boat, reading books and attempting to do some email. Our cell signal was very poor and no Wi-Fi exists in this area, so we were forced to just enjoy the entertainment that nature provided. Oh pooh! We didn’t even launch the dinghy as we were so content to just take it all in and relax. That evening we got treated to a great sunset and beauty of it on the surrounding rocks.

Over the last week or so, Mark had been working the leaking window issue with both the manufacturer of the windows (Bomon) and Back Cove’s Customer Service team. Over the last year or so we have tried everything that the manufacturer suggested to fix the leaks and now it has only gotten worse. Because we are going to be in Rockland, Back Cove is going to send an engineer out to meet us while we are there, to see if we can get this issue fixed. So now we will have 2 appointments with Back Cove in the coming days.

Reminder: we have disabled the ability to comment on this site due to the large amount of span we are receiving. If you wish to reach us, feel free to send an email.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Seal Bay, Vinalhaven Island

South Portland Hiatus!

Posted on August 23, 2021 | Comments Off

Friday (8/6) – Part B – Spring Point Marina, South Portland, Maine

At 9:15 am we left the mooring at Great Chebeague Island and headed through the waters of Casco Bay, passing the Wyman Energy Center on Cousins Island and in the distance Portland Yacht Club in Falmouth. It wasn’t long before we were passing near Fort Gorges, downtown Portland, and then Bug Light. Just after this landmark we turned into Spring Point Marina in South Portland; our home for the next week. We traveled a whopping 9 miles and it was only 10:00 am when we finally settled into our slip on “H” dock. We chose this marina instead of DiMillo’s (where we stayed in 2019), because it was more reasonably priced and we knew the area; we stayed and left the boat here in 2017 when we flew home for a family reunion. Although DiMillo’s is in the heart of downtown Portland, this area offers a safer and quieter spot for Denise, and will allow us to save time when we leave to cruise more of the Maine Coast.

We spent the rest of the morning getting caught up on work items before the weekend, especially Mark as he prepared for his on-site meetings at the client next week.

In the afternoon we were able to use one of the marina’s pickup trucks to go to the grocery store (Hannaford’s) to get a few items. We also picked up some fish for dinner, as well as turned in some of our bottles and cans. It was while he was redeeming the cans that he began speaking with a woman who also had a boat at Spring Point Marina. Come to find out Kim (and husband Ken) used to be on “H” dock, but this season they moved to “I” dock. Somehow, Mark remembered their boat from our visit in 2017 because it was right near the “float” that houses the tables and barbeque grills. We learned that “G” dock now has the big parties that “H” dock used to have.

Later in the evening we cooked our fish onboard our boat and went for a short walk around the marina, before returning back to the boat to watch some TV and calling it a day.

Saturday (8/7) – Spring Point Marina, Portland, Maine

It was a warm morning when Denise went for a run. Not really acclimated to the humidity this season, she struggled on the run, despite the temperature in the high 60’s as the start. Her trail took her from the marina out to Bug Light, which marks the entrance to the Portland Harbor. From there she ran along the Maine greenway path that runs through South Portland neighborhoods and a few small villages for over 5 miles, eventually connecting to another path on the south end of Portland. It was a good run on a mostly flat course, but when she got back to the boat she was spent.

During the day we worked on cataloging pictures, writings for the blog, talking to family and friends, and meeting some of the people around the marina. In the afternoon, we used one of the marina crew-cab pickup trucks to go to evening mass at Holy Cross Catholic. It was only a little over a mile, but because it was so hot and the street it was on was a busy road, we opted to drive. We were given the truck because the marina loaner car (SUV) was already taken. It was a challenge for Denise to climb up into the cab, but once there, it was great to sit up high.

After mass we returned to the marina, returned the truck, and went to dinner at the restaurant that is located on the marina property. Our dinner at “North 42° Bistro” was as good as we remembered from 2017, and Denise was glad she had made reservations the day before. It was sold out for the night, and even the bar was full when we arrived. We both got fish dishes and found them to be delicious!

After dinner, we went for a walk. Denise wanted to show Mark the lighthouse and park at Bug Light, so we walked through the condo complex adjacent to the marina, and up the path to the park. On the way to the light we stopped at the Liberty Ship Memorial (an open air museum of sorts) that tells of the history of the Liberty Ships built in the South Portland Shipyard. It was very interesting to read about the shipyard’s importance, including the impact of women, who replaced the workers sent off to fight the war.

When we returned to the marina we found the people on “G” dock were living up to their reputation as the new partying dock. Fortunately, we had the air conditioning on and didn’t hear any of their noise into the late night.

Once back on the boat, we did a face-time call to our family in Tallahassee who were having a big birthday celebration for Denise’s sister and brother-in-law; both are celebrating significant milestone birthdays this year and opted for a single party. We missed being there and seeing everyone, but sent our wishes as best as we could. This is the downside to cruising and being so far from home.

Sunday (8/8) – Spring Point Marina, Portland, Maine

Waking up early to another warm morning, Denise went for a long walk to see the area southwest of the marina, a place we have not yet explored. The pathway out of the marina is really a continuation of the path from Bug Light Park, and cuts right through the entire Port Marine/Spring Point Marina complex. Once through the yard, the path follows along the water and into the campus of Southern Maine Community College (SMCC). Immediately adjacent to the marina grounds is the pier and just beyond that is the Spring Point breakwater and Lighthouse.

From there the pathway leads to the old ruins of Fort Preble, built in 1808 to defend Portland Harbor, it was used in the War of 1812 and the Civil War. It is now in shambles, but you can take a path down to the beach area (strewn with granite boulders at this point), or you can take the rickety stairs to the upper area and get a spectacular view of Simonton Cove or the Gulf of Maine. You can learn more about this fort here.

From there she continued her walk along the shoreline path, passing buildings for SMCC, and eventually the Old Settlers Cemetery – there are some very old graves in this cemetery!

Afterwards, she walked to the end of the path as far as possible, then back through campus and around to the marina before returning to the boat. Here are some more pictures from her walk:

In the morning, we used the loaner truck (again) to run a few errands; a trip to Walmart and Lowes for some boat repair/maintenance items, and a grocery store (Hannaford’s) for food items. We got back to the boat in time for lunch and organize the purchases and stowed them.

Before we knew it, it was time for Mark to leave. He took a cab from the marina to the airport, and flew to New Jersey (via Detroit) for client work. Denise used the time to get caught up on some readings and videos she had been wanting to watch.

Monday (8/9) through Wednesday (8/11) – Spring Point Marina, Portland, Maine

During these days, Denise stayed on the boat and hung around the marina. She got in another run along the South Portland pathway, and went for another walk around the SMCC campus.

On Monday (8/9), the surveyor for our insurance (BoatUS/Geico) came by to inspect the damage from the Belfast collision. He was a retired USCG officer and loved his last duty station in Key West, and as a result owns a house there. “Dave” spent a lot of time talking with Denise about the options and suggested a course of action we might want to consider, and later explained the same to Mark via telephone call. Subsequent to his visit, we received his estimate for damages and repair, and will now pursue a claim against the offenders insurance (Allstate).

On Tuesday, (8/10) fog appeared in the harbor and just off from the marina, but it was not too bad. Denise spent all morning in the boat working, or working on boat-related items. In the afternoon she borrowed the marina loaner vehicle and went for some self-pampering; she got a much-needed pedicure!

On Wednesday morning, (8/11) the fog was so thick that you could not see the building on land from our slip, or even the fuel dock. It was stifling quiet and very warm and humid. Despite this, Denise went for another run through Bug Light Park and on the footpath through South Portland. In a few areas she took a slight diversion to run up and down the streets of Ferry Village; a community that runs along the east side of Portland Harbor.

Wednesday afternoon (8/11) – Mark had an early morning flight and returned to the boat in the early afternoon. For a few hours we completed some work items and boat chores, then put together an itinerary for the coming days, once we leave South Portland.

In the evening we borrowed the loaner car and went to Old Orchard Beach, a place we had heard of but never visited. It is not a spot that we can get to on the boat, and the closest inlet (Saco River) is still a significant way and not worth burning fuel. We arrived and parked the SUV a little further uptown from the beach, affording us the opportunity to stroll by the shops. As we got closer to the water we could see all the boardwalk amusements, which reminded Denise of Salisbury and Hampton Beaches where her parents took her as a kid when visiting New England. There were all kinds of rides and carnival-type games and the place was quite crowded. It has been very hot and people just wanted to get in the water or be near the breezy shore to cool off.

We went looking for a place to have a sit-down dinner on the water, and were sorely disappointed. Although there were lots of pizza, fried food, and sandwich places, and there was one very over-crowded bar and one lobster shack that was closed on Wednesdays, we found no place that appealed to us. After 30 minutes of walking around, we decided to take our chances further north. We returned to the car and headed north on the road paralleling the beach. Eventually we found our way into Scarborough and found to the “Clambake Seafood Restaurant”. Although this was not what we had intended, it was getting late and we were hungry. An obvious local’s joint-turned tourist trap establishment, this was quite the operation. It is a large restaurant that you order at a multi-station counter, find a place to sit, and then get your food when they call your number. There is also a bar in the center of the restaurant, which is where we chose to sit to avoid the crowded dining area, and where we could get a beer.

One of the best things about this restaurant is the view that overlooks a large marsh area (Scarborough Marsh) that buffers the Nonesuch River. It is not unlike those of Low Country South Carolina. It is a vast area and much of it is part of a park preserve and on the way back to the marina, we stopped and took a picture of this beautiful and rather large area.

Thursday (8/12) – Spring Point Marina, Portland, Maine

In the morning Denise went for a short walk initially, which turned into a much longer walk and adventure. What started out as “what were those lights we saw last night” (patio lights at a local pub), to “let’s go check out the pier on the other side of the marina”. This prompted another walk through parts of the SMCC campus, and out to the pier. Here she encountered a photographer who was trying to get photos of a young osprey in a nest. He explained that he had been watching the bird try to fly for weeks, and any day now he will take off. Meanwhile, the parent kept encouraging it to flee the nest. Sounds like some people we know who still have their adult children living at home.

Once back on the boat it was mostly a work day and get prepared to leave for tomorrow’s journey back to Vinalhaven in Penobscot Bay. Mark wanted to go back to Seal Bay on the eastern shore, where we had been in 2017. It is a beautiful place and we looked forward to spending more time there.

Throughout the last few weeks, we had been in communication with Back Cove. We wondered if there was anyone else that had put as many miles on their boat as we have (now at 22,000). Mark had been emailing with the National Sales Manager (Jaime Bloomquist) and when he learned we would be in Maine this summer he said he wanted to meet up with us. Although not originally planning to go to Rockland, he set up a meeting for next week and then made reservations at the Rockland Landing Marina for a few days stay. Rockland is a short distance from Vinalhaven so it made sense to go there after an overnight at Seal Bay.

In the evening we met with Joyce & Peter (”Grey Swan”) on their boat for happy hour. They have been docked behind us for the last few days and we have been exchanging pleasantries and short conversations. It was fun to talk with them and share boating stories about places we have been. Afterwards we returned to our boat and Captain Mark grilled us up some delicious hamburgers, and God provided a beautiful sunset to end our stay in South Portland.

One final note: Effective immediately, we have disabled the ability to comment on this site due to the large amount of span we are receiving. If you wish to reach us, feel free to send an email.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Great Chebeague Island, Portland, South Portland

Great Chebeague – Big Nothing!

Posted on August 17, 2021 | Comments Off

**Port Clyde to Great Chebeague Island**

Thursday (8/5) – Great Chebeague Island – near Portland, Maine

Although wanting to stay and explore more of this great town (Port Clyde), we knew we had to move closer to Portland and do so before the weather was forecasted to turn against us. We had made plans to get to Great Chebeague Island in Casco Bay, but had several bailout locations planned in case it got too rough. The wind was out of the northeast and (hopefully) blocked mostly by the land, with the waves behind us. However, rain and fog were also expected, therefore we headed out in less than ideal conditions.

The main reason for going back west and to Portland was because Mark had to fly to see a NJ client on Sunday afternoon. In the past, he flew out of Bangor, we got a rental car in Belfast, and Denise stayed on the boat there. But this has not been an ordinary year, and flights times in Bangor were awful and were very expensive when seats were available. Instead, he secured more favorable rates out of Portland and we made plans for the boat and Denise to stay in Rockland. This would enable more time on the Penobscot Bay when he returned from the trip. However, getting a rental car was impossible, and the U-Haul van he did manage to rent still required Denise to make two, 2-hour round trips to take him and pick him up in Portland. Finally, we decided it was just better to take the boat to Portland, stay there, and then come back to the area after the trip.

With this in mind, we left our mooring in Port Clyde just after 8:00 am to make the 40+ miles to Great Chebeague Island. As we left the harbor, we passed Hupper Island to our right, and got a glimpse of the summer home of Justice John Roberts (of SCOTUS). It is now more like a compound as he purchased two homes next to each other, both from Steve Thomas (of PBS’ “This Old House”) over a period of 10 years.

Making our way through the channel and out the inlet we immediately hit fog and some light rain. However, the waves were not bad and we were able to cruise along, negotiating lobster pots along the way. The worst was the 10 miles crossing Muscongus Bay, until we rounded Pemaquid Point. Then we were able to run between rock islands near Boothbay Harbor. Again it was a little bouncy as we crossed the Sheepscot River and by the time we rounded Cape Small things had settled down. By 10:00 we knew we would make it to our destination for the evening and would be able to make Portland on Friday, even if the weather was bad. Finally we approached Great Chebeague Island and could see the numerous boats already on moorings.

It was still somewhat foggy, but we had clear visibility and could see Little John and Cousins Island to our right. We found an open mooring ball from the Great Chebeague Inn and hooked up to it for our evening stay. There are only 8 and they do not take reservations; they are on a FCFS basis, so we felt lucky we got one of the remaining balls.

Shortly after we arrived, a Sabre (“Nightingale”) pulled up onto one of the moorings. We knew this boat from pictures we had seen on the BC/Sabre Facebook Page. However, due to weather, we did not venture off the boat to go meet them. They launched their dinghy and went to shore, then returned back not long thereafter, but did not stop as it was raining. We never did get to meet them.

It was raining off and on all morning and into the early afternoon, so we hunkered down and stuck to work, working on blogs and tentative future itineraries. We had good cell signal and therefore were able to communicate with the outside world. This allowed us to be productive, all the while wiping the rain from our boat leaks. We will definitely be addressing this in the coming days when in Portland.

We watched another boat come in and pick up the last mooring ball for the inn, then shortly thereafter the hotel launch boat came and picked them up. It was pretty obvious they were going to dinner at the Inn, and we had investigated this option as well. However, the restaurant was sold-out for the night, so it would be dinner on board for us. That was ok as the place has a reputation for very expensive dinners, for which you are paying for the sunset view. Even though the rain had stopped, it was still cloudy and overcast and therefore it would not be worth it on a night like tonight. However, in the process we did learn that the hotel did in fact have a launch that could come and pick us up. Even still, we were not enthusiastic about getting off the boat; we had decided to wait until tomorrow morning when things would be much nicer.

Throughout the day we watched the ferry come and go just off our stern. The channel into the dock ran not far from our boat, and every time they went by (about 1 per hour) they would rock our boat. We hoped they would stop in the evening, but unfortunately, they continued until after 9 pm.

Friday (8/6) – Park A – Great Chebeague Island – near Portland, Maine

It was a beautiful morning when we woke up, with a little bit of fog that soon dissipated by the time the ferry had made its second appearance. Since we had a very short trip into Portland, we were not in any hurry to get underway today. We did however, wish to explore the island a little bit before heading out. So after breakfast we launched the dinghy and headed over to the town dock, shared by the ferry. We even timed our arrival so that we would beat the arrival of the next ferry and not have to deal with their wake on the dock when trying to tie up our dinghy.

Ferry terminal and dinghy dock at Great Chebeague Island

When we arrived at the dinghy dock, we quickly learned there was very limited space for visiting dinghies. The majority of the dock was for lobsterman and islanders. As we arrived there were some locals there who directed us to where we could tie up, and then told us about the dock fee which is strictly enforced. We had no knowledge of this as there is nothing in Active Captain, and if we had we would have taken the launch offered by the inn. Upon further investigation we saw the sign and the fee box, with instructions on how to pay online. After Captain Mark got us all paid up, we set about to hike up the hill to the Inn; we wanted to pay our mooring ball fee for the night.

The road is a long slow incline to the top of the hill where the inn sits, overlooking the thoroughfare between Great Chebeague and the islands to the west (Little John and Cousins Islands). It’s a beautiful sight and on this morning it provided us an opportunity to get some great pictures of the water, islands and the Chebeague Inn.

Once at the inn we checked in at the front desk to pay the fee, and we were initially told it was $75/night; $25/night if you are staying at the inn. We were surprised to hear this and complained that there is nothing in any of the information that states this, and in fact it says it is free if you eat at the restaurant. We later learned this is no longer true either. After we told her that we could have very easily just left the mooring this morning and they would not have collected anything, the hotel clerk relented and took our $25. Afterwards, we walked around the hotel to see this old but lovely inn.

After our visit at the inn, we walked up the main road to get some exercise and to see some of the houses on the island. Besides the inn, there is pretty much nothing else on this island except summer homes and rental properties, and the eastern shore beach was too far to walk. It was a bit buggy and it was getting hot, so after about a mile we turned around and went back to the dock and got in our dinghy. We headed back to the boat just before the next ferry took off so we did not have to worry about their inevitable wake when in our dinghy. We are glad we stopped here for the night, but agreed that unless you plan to eat at the inn, there is no reason to come back.

Once back on board, we readied the boat for departure for Portland. We will pick up the rest of this day in our next post.

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Port Clyde Pals!

Posted on August 16, 2021 | Comments Off

Wednesday (8/4) – Port Clyde, Maine

Wanting to get in one more run in this town before leaving, Denise took off at 6:00 am down the Harbor Walk path for a short run. Expecting to be on mooring balls for the next two nights, she was happy to get in the run, even though her body really wanted to sleep in. On her return back to the boat, she saw our friends Ruth & Herb (“Ancient Mariners”) leave Belfast.

After breakfast Mark had a few things to do while Denise went with Ryan (“Rebecca”) to the Redemption Center to cash in our collected bottles and (mostly Diet Coke) cans. Ryan had a rental car and was kind to assist us in getting these items off our boat, and collecting a whopping 85 cents. Denise offered to pay for the gas, but at 2 miles each way he wouldn’t take it. Plus, we probably would have netted about 15 cents when it was all said and done. It was hardly worth the effort, but we hate to see these items go into landfills and we certainly would like to redeem some of the deposit we have to pay with each purchase.

Once back on the boat we made preparations to leave, but first moved the boat over to the fuel dock to get a pump out. Finally, just after 9:30 am we said good bye to the wonderful staff at Belfast City Marina and our new friend Ryan and headed out on to Penobscot Bay.

Our trip took us past the island of Islesboro to our left, and along the shores of the mainland to our right. We had a terrific view of the Camden Hills as we went along, eventually passing the towns of Camden, Rockport and then Rockland. This is very familiar cruising ground for us and we always enjoy this section of Penobscot Bay, especially when there is no fog. Dodging the ferries between Camden and Islesboro or between Rockland and Vinalhaven was our only challenge, except the lobster pots….always the lobster pots.

Once past Rockland, we cruised through Owls Head Bay, leaving Owls Head lighthouse to our right.

We then took the short-cut route called Muscle Ridge Channel, as we headed west. It took us around a few rock islands and several small harbors and coves, including one called Seal Harbor; not to be confused with Seal Cove, Seal Bay or Seal Harbor in other parts of coastal Maine. Eventually we passed by the Whitehead Island Lighthouse, where its location is very critical. This point is known as one of the foggiest spots on the coast, with about a quarter of the days spent in fog during any given year.

We passed by Mosquito Island and shortly thereafter the Marshall Point Lighthouse. Once we saw this lighthouse, we were reminded that we had traveled here by car for our anniversary weekend in 2018. Not only had we been to the lighthouse, we had also visited the town of Port Clyde.

Here we turned north and cruised through the Port Clyde Inlet and navigated around the numerous lobster boats on moorings.

We slowly made our way up into the top of the harbor and to our mooring ball for the night, complements of one of our cruising friends whom we met at Dolphin Marina (see post here). Mack & Dolly who are from Oviedo but have a summer home in Port Clyde had invited us to come to visit. They are friends with Larry & Diane, who live year-round in Port Clyde and whose house overlooks the harbor. Come to find out, Larry is the town Mayor. They have a dock where Mack keeps his boat in the summer, when not on his mooring which we were staying on for the evening. It is less than 200 feet from Mack’s dock. We secured our boat on the mooring and had our lunch aboard, all the while establishing contact with our hosts for the evening activities.

In late afternoon we launched our dinghy, and took it to the dock at Larry & Diane’s house. Then we walked up the steps to their back porch and met our hosts. They had cocktails and happy hour food spread out, and they had made dinner reservations for later. We sat on their porch overlooking their view of both Port Clyde Harbor to the south, and the rocks and channel that leads to St. George River to our northwest.

When it was time for dinner, they took us to the Black Harpoon, a local’s restaurant and bar that is eclectically decorated and got crowded fast with the summer residents. Here Mack and Larry knew everyone and would stop those passing by our table to introduce us. We had great conversation, laughs, and got to know each other a little bit. Before the meal was done, they invited us to stay another night so we could join them at another local spot (“The Barn”). Given the forecasted weather, our plans didn’t allow for it, but we thanked them for the invite and left open the door to coming back in a few weeks, when we return to the Penobscot Bay area.

After dinner we said goodbye to Mack & Dolly as they were driving to another part of town, and Larry & Diane took us back to their home (and our dinghy). We ended up talking to them for a while before heading back to the boat, and capturing this magnificent picture of our Island Office from their back porch.

*Island Office* on mooring from back porch – looking northwest

We had a lot of fun with these two couples, and we really want to come back for a Thursday night at “The Barn”. Our hosts were beyond gracious and we feel honored that they invited us into their circle of friends. It was quite an experience and we loved it, so we will most likely make it happen.

Our sunset this evening:

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Enjoying Belfast Again!

Posted on August 15, 2021 | Comments Off

Saturday (7/31) – Belfast, Maine

The day started with a run for Denise, who loves the options of running in this town. There is a walking/biking/footpath that runs along the river, called Harbor Walk. It starts downtown and has a trail head at the north end of the river that is about 4 miles away. It also includes a footbridge across the river that can be followed for about a half mile before turning to sidewalk along US1. With this mostly flat path and a trail that is paved and shaded, Denise enjoyed the run as did several other runners, walkers and dog-walkers. At one point going in the opposite direction she saw a young man who had on an “FSU Running” t-shirt, but he and his companions did not stop when she said “Go ‘Noles; I am a ‘Nole alumni!”. Sadly, she never saw them again.

After her run, Denise walked up the inside Farmer’s Market, held every Saturday in town. It’s a great concept as they are able to be there year-round, and the vendors don’t have to keep setting up and taking down booths and tents. She noticed there were quite a few less vendors than there used to be, and when asked the standard answer was “Covid”. It has effected these small business owners more than most realize.

Once back on the boat, it was chore day, starting with the laundry. There is no facility at this city marina, but about ½ mile up the hill in town there is a great laundromat. Using the marina dock cart, we took all the sheets, towels, rags and clothes up the hill and in about 90 minutes we had it all just about done.

We were not sure we would be able to go to a real grocery store, but we needed a few things. So Denise walked back up the hill to “The COOP” (pronounced co-op, not coop), located right near the laundromat. It is like a miniature “Whole Foods”. Sadly, it too has been hurt by Covid and they have far less in the store than they used to, and their prices on some things make Whole Foods look like a discount food store. However, she got what she needed and returned to the boat.

Meanwhile the boat in the slip next to ours left, and we had been asked to move over to their slip. It was an easy task with no finger-pier in between, and in no time we were now off the fuel dock and away from the constant boat traffic.

IO at Belfast Marina – original slip (top left)

Unfortunately, this did not work to our advantage. In the afternoon (as we were getting cleaned up and ready for church), a center console boat was trying to back into the fuel dock, and on his 3^rd attempt he panicked and his bow hit our boat. This time there was some damage (cosmetic) to our gel-coat and now we have a big boo-boo on our beautiful hull. Fortunately, there were witnesses, including the assistant dockmaster and a lobsterwoman who told Denise she couldn’t believe he tried to back in against the current. It was a poor decision that will now be a hassle for us to get repaired. Captain Mark got all the information, including the guy’s registration and insurance information and we will be filing a claim.

We then had to hurry to walk up the hill, through town and got to mass at St Francis of Assisi Catholic Church, just in time for the 4:00 pm service.

On the way back from church we stopped at Alexi’s Pizza, as Mark had been craving it and wanted to see if they had garlic knots (they did not). Additionally, the place came highly recommended by the folks in town. The food was good and the staff of young people were so energetic that it was fun to watch them. They have a great team there and we liked the pizza and salad we shared. It was a great way to end a Saturday.

Walking back to the boat, we noticed a sign for the Belfast City bus and its schedule, including a route that would take us to the Hannaford’s grocery (Mon, Wed., and Fri. only). The service was free, and the pickup was right at the marina; it could not be more convenient. We were not aware they even had such a thing because in the past when here we had access to a car (friends or family) and never investigated it. However, this would be most helpful to go to the real grocery store, if they were really operating in this post-Covid era. We did some initial research about it on line, but realized we needed to call them on Monday to see if they were going to run their usual schedule.

Tonight we were treated to this spectacular sunset we captured from the bow of our boat:

Sunday (8/1) – Belfast, Maine

In the morning Denise went for a walk through downtown, back along the Harbor Walk and over the footbridge and back. The path took her past the Front Street Marina, and today she noticed a beautiful wooden steamer yacht named “Cangarda”. It had just been moved out of the hanger and the worker who was doing some prep for future work shared that it was a private owner and they take meticulous care of it. Once back on the boat, she did a little research about this beautiful boat that is available for charter. You can read more about this boat here and here.

Once Mark was up, we headed out to Traci’s Diner for breakfast. We ate here in 2019 and loved their options, but this time we sat in their “Maine” room, not the “80’s” room. The food is good, inexpensive and the staff is very friendly. And they are known for their lobster omelets which we still have yet to try. Some things are just better left alone.

We spent the entire day hanging around the marina and watching other boats come and go. Periodically people would stop and ask about our boat, or other cruisers would stop and we would chat for a while. We had also learned this weekend was a fishing tournament for mackerel and stripers with a grand prize of $1000. This doesn’t sound like much payout compared to some of Florida’s big fishing tournaments, but considering the most a boat will put up for entry fee is $40, it can be quite a return on investment for the winner. Plus it is for a great cause: “Operation Reboot Outdoors” which is an organization that provides services and outings for wounded vets. Needless to say there were lots of boats coming into and out of the marina and boat ramp all weekend.

We also ran into cruising friends Ruth & Herb, whose boat was on another pier in the marina. We had met them in 2017 through our long-time sailing friends Irv & Marsha (“Hang Out”) who would spend every summer in Belfast. Ruth & Herb are very interesting people and are truly a couple who are “growing bolder not older”; Herb is 100+ years old and Ruth is in her late 90’s. They spend every summer in Maine, cruising on their American Tug appropriately named “Ancient Mariners”. In the winter they are in Boynton Beach, FL. Although they move slowly and have some hearing loss, they both are very sprite and are a lovely couple. We feel honored to know them, and amazingly many of the cruisers we run into also know of them.

Mark also spent a large amount of time working on filing for an insurance claim with Allstate (the offender’s insurance company) and with BoatUS-Geico – our insurance. He was trying to schedule both for claim inspections in Portland, where we were heading next weekend. As luck would have it, Allstate’s guy was closer to Belfast and was thankful that he didn’t have to go to Portland and he set an appointment for Tuesday.

It was a laid back kind of day, and we had previously decided to eat dinner on the boat. Mark cooked up some great fajitas (Denise did all the prep) and we relaxed in the evening watching a little television.

Monday (8/2) – Belfast, Maine

Early in the morning Denise went for a run taking the Harbor Walk and then across the footbridge to the other side of the river. Usually she turns around, but today she ventured to the other side where she saw a war memorial, and then followed the road which became a sidewalk along US1. This is the route to take (by car) to Young’s Lobster Pound, but she didn’t go that far (no shoulder or sidewalk) before turning around at the Nut House and heading back over the footbridge to the Harbor Walk path, down around the river, and then eventually back to the boat.

At 8:30 we called about the bus and discovered they were in fact operating, but only for individual pickups which had to be scheduled in advance. Initially they told us it would be Wednesday, but later they were able to get us scheduled for a 9:30 pickup. When it was time, Denise walked up to the dockmaster’s office for the pickup. Mark was originally going to go but opted to stay on the boat and do some work. Denise took the bus to Hannaford’s and when she was done, the driver returned her to the marina, all before 11:00 am.

In this process, we learned that the bus service was only doing individual pickups due to Covid. It seemed to us they could have adopted the rules the Island Explorer bus used in MDI, or just limited the passenger counts on each bus, and still serve the community. Instead, they take a bus (not a van or a car) and drive it around town for individual pickups one at a time. What a waste of taxpayer money.

About the time Denise returned, we watched what we called the “big boat shuffle”; several large boats (yachts) had to be repositioned. It started with the large ketch sailboat that was on the end dock next to us having to leave; their extended stay at the city marina was over. They had secured a spot at Front Street Marina, but could not move over there until the yacht in their future slip left Belfast. The sailboat was being replaced by the 117’ personal motor yacht (another boat named “Rebecca”), which had been docked at the town wharf. They had to leave the wharf because an American Cruise Line ship (“Independence”) was coming into town, and in fact had been waiting in the harbor since 10:30. Complicating this, Rebecca had to turn around 180°, with her stern now facing the harbor entrance. The harbormaster was trying to coordinate all of this activity all the while other boats were still coming in for fuel, new arrivals to moorings, and new boats leaving and entering slips. The large sailboat had limited maneuvering capability and finally went all the way out of the harbor until all the other boats were repositioned. Once they left, “Rebecca” turned around, then came up to the pier across from us. Finally, “Independence” came into the town wharf. What a circus!

About the time all this got settled and the cruise ship was finally docking at the wharf, it began to rain. We felt for the steward who was assisting the Captain of the cruise ship.

Cruise America captain in rain – Steward holding the umbrella!

We spent the afternoon working for our clients, working on the blog, cataloging pictures, and talking with family.

In the evening, the city had a street festival with a band and some local activities. We were told there would be food there and since most of the restaurants in town are closed on Mondays, we went to explore and maybe grab a bite to eat. It was at the top of the hill and on a cross street of Main Street, which they had blocked off for the event. By the time we arrived, it was well under way with lots of people and the band was playing a few country songs (NOT Mark’s favorite music genre). There were food trucks (mostly sweets) and the YMCA had a game area for kids of all ages. There was even a promo booth for Moxie (a New England soda Denise’s family is most familiar with, but nobody likes).

After about 20 minutes, we decided that there was nothing there we wanted to eat and headed back down Main Street to see if there was a place to get dinner, otherwise we would find something to eat on the boat. We noticed Delvino’s was open and tried our luck at getting a table, only to find there was an hour-long wait. However, there were two empty seats at the bar and we were able to sit there right away. Once again we had a terrific meal and our bartender/waiter was interesting to talk to. It was a great way to end a busy and fun day in Belfast.

Tuesday (8/3) – Belfast, Maine

This morning Denise went for a walk along the Harbor Walk, but towards the south end of town. Just past the end of the Harbor Walk, it turns residential with streets that run down to the water, and a few that are parallel to the shoreline. There are a few public access points and parks along the water, and she was able to view parts of Penobscot Bay on this beautiful morning.

Mark was ready for the surveyor (Allstate Claim Rep) when he showed up at 8:30. He wanted to see the hull damage up close, so he had put the dinghy in the water and used it to move to the port side of the boat for which there was no pier. It didn’t take him long, and within an hour he was done with pictures and gathering more information. He later emailed Mark the report. Meanwhile, Mark had gone to Front Street Marina and obtained an objective 3^rd-party estimate to use for comparison purposes only. This is a very reputable yard and their information is one that can be trusted. They did mention that the earliest they would be able to do the work (if we wanted them to do it) would be during the winter; we will be long gone by then. Since the damage is more cosmetic (not structural) our intention is to have the gel-coat repaired a little closer to home.

Throughout the last two days we also got to talk with Ryan, the first mate & engineer on “Rebecca”. We learned the boat whose hailing port is Baton Rouge, Louisiana, is privately owned and not in charter. The Captain is from Belfast, has his family here, and is the reason they are staying here until the owner comes back on board. One thing that was clear was that they do not have the electrical service for this large yacht on this pier, so they are forced to run generators even while at the dock. Yesterday, Ryan promised us they would run the generator on the opposite side of the boat during the night so it would not disturb us, and he was true to his word. We also got to watch them fuel up this beautiful yacht. The boat can hold up to 7000 gallons of diesel and since the marina’s tanks only has a 1000 gallon tank, they fuel had to be ordered and delivered in trucks. It took 3 full trucks, and about 3 hours to fill the tank. Although we don’t know the price of this particular fill-up, Ryan mentioned that when they last filled up in the Bahamas their bill was $36,000. We cannot even imagine.

Despite all this activity, we spent the entire day at work. In addition to the usual calls, emails, etc., Denise had to prep and deliver a sales presentation for a prospect, and Mark had numerous calls and emails to address for clients.

During the late afternoon, our friends Ruth & Herb (“Ancient Mariners”) moved their boat to the fuel dock where they took on fuel and got a pump-out. They were leaving for Rockland in the morning and ended up staying on this dock overnight. It was nice to have them next to us once again.

In the evening we took the dinghy across the river to Young’s Lobster Pound. This is one of our favorite places in Belfast, and where we took Claire, John, Johnny and Scarlett when they were with us in 2019. When we arrived there was almost no one in line, but we realized neither of us had brought a wallet. Mark took the dinghy back to the boat, and by the time he got back to the lobster pound, there was now at least 15 minute wait. Denise had jumped into the line before he got back so we only had to wait about 5 minutes before ordering; it took us longer to decided what we wanted from the plethora of lobster combination dinners, fish platters, oysters, steamers and mussels. Mark ended up with a swordfish platter and Denise got lobster. We had secured a spot on a picnic table on the back deck and had a terrific meal with a spectacular view. We headed back to the boat and got treated to this spectacular sunset.

Once again we have enjoyed this wonderful town that is not near as touristy as others on the Maine coast. It is a fun place with lots to do, but tomorrow we will be leaving. Here are a few other pictures from our stay:

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Claire Week!

Posted on August 10, 2021 | Comments Off

Monday (7/26) – SW Harbor, Maine

Although we had agreed to sleep in, we still woke up a bit later than expected. However, the weather was still cool and it was a good morning for Denise & Claire to go for a run. Their route took them back through downtown and further north than Denise had run on Saturday. This time they ran past a school and a park that had a group of adult exercise equipment not unlike the ones in Newport, RI. After a few loops through some of the city streets, we returned back to the boat for showers and breakfast.

Meanwhile, Mark returned the rental car and got a ride back from the car dealership via their shuttle van. Then since our boat was on the fuel dock already and because they had great prices, he topped off the boat with more diesel. Since we did not want to leave Ellsworth until the tide started rising again, we used the time to do a bit of work (emails and phone calls) until it was time to leave.

We had a plan of places to take Claire, in order to give her the true Maine experience via the water. We had been together in 2019, but most all of our travels then were by car. This time we wanted her to experience what it was like via the water. Our week’s itinerary was to start in SW Harbor where we hoped to connect with her old high school classmate and our boating friends Mark & Jenay (“Ravello”).

Finally at 11:30 we said good bye to Will (Asst. Dockmaster) and left the wonderful town of Ellsworth. We cruised back down the Union River and reversed our route from Friday through Union and Blue Hill Bays until were back to SW Harbor where we had a reservation for the night at Dysart’s marina.

We pulled into our assigned slip, and shortly after settling the boat and getting checked in, Mark & Jenay Paul came over to see Claire. We all stood around and talked for a bit and made plans to meet for drinks on our boat.

Before leaving, Jenay mentioned going for a walk on the “Causeway Footbridge”. Of all the times we have stayed in SW Harbor we had never heard of it, so Denise & Claire donned their walking shoes and went with Jenay to explore this very cool thing. To get there we had to first go through downtown and head as if we were going to Beal’s Lobster. But then we turned and walked through a neighborhood, eventually taking a dirt path that lead to a narrow bridge made out of large blocks of granite. In the middle was a bridge that covered a spillover that poured water into the sound, creating a waterfall of sorts. The view was spectacular with the mountains of MDI and Somes Sound in the background.

We would have stayed longer, but it was getting late so we had to hustle to get back to our boats. Once all cleaned up and joined by Jenay & Mark, we had a great time socializing and giving Claire and Mark a chance to get caught up on mutual classmates. We invited them to join us for dinner at Beal’s and they agreed to drive us, which our tired feet appreciated after the days run and long walk. Unfortunately, the line at Beal’s was very long and we had to wait almost an hour before we could get seated and get our dinner. However, we were having so much fun that we hardly noticed the time, and as we finished our meals and left, the restaurant was closing for the night.

At Beal’s with Captain Mark, Jenay, Mark & Claire

During our conversations with Mark & Jenay they told us about the Claremont Inn, a hotel located not far from Beal’s. If you eat dinner at their fine restaurant, you can bring your boat to their moorings and stay overnight for no charge. They had done this very thing recently when they had a family member stay at the hotel. They insisted on taking us by the hotel to show us how beautiful a place it was, and suggested we put the restaurant on the “must dine at” locations next time we come to SW Harbor. The place is not large, but it is a beautiful inn and we loved learning about it.

Today had been a very full and fun day for all, and we were so glad we could share it all with Claire.

Tuesday (7/27) – Somes Harbor, Maine

Before Mark could roll out of bed, Denise and Claire went for a long walk, back to the “Causeway Bridge”, only this time taking it all the way across. On the other side is the Causeway Club; a tennis and golf club, that has houses overlooking the water on one side and the golf course on the other. We walked along the golf course and eventually back out to the main highway and headed south, to take us back to downtown.

Along the way we encountered Charlotte Roads Park and the beautiful butterfly garden that is open to the public. It backs up to the water and provides a lovely and peaceful setting, not to mention a beautiful and wide collection of flowers and bushes that attract butterflies. In a few weeks they will be having a butterfly release here, and we are sorry we will not be here to experience it.

We returned to the boat as Mark was eating breakfast, and then we all had work-related activities (emails, calls, etc.) to accomplish before heading out for more fun. Mark and Jenay stopped over to say good-bye and we all promised to keep in touch. Who knows, we may see them back on the Chesapeake when we head south.

Finally, we untied the dock lines and left SW Harbor, heading out past the Claremont Hotel, the sailing yacht “Rebecca”, and into Somes Sound.

It wasn’t long before we approached the small but protected Somes Harbor near Somesville, our first choice for the night. Here we found an available mooring ball right away and were able to hook up to it for the night. Right near us was a boat at anchor who was from St. Mark’s (near Tallahassee). Come to find out “Grump Stump” was also a Gold Looper and Claire took his card for future communications. Mark launched the dinghy and went over to talk with him some more and told him about the available moorings, so he pulled up his anchor and picked up one that was just behind us.

We spent part of the afternoon reading, talking and doing some work, all the while watching other boats come into the harbor, or just cruise around. At one point a Fleming yacht came in to anchor just south of us, and they launched their paddle boards and cruised around the harbor a bit, but they were only there for a few hours then they left.

Later in the afternoon, a large sailing charter (“J&E Rigging”) came in an anchored near us. Then they broke out all the toys for their guests; paddleboards, dinghy, etc. and some of their guests even jumped in the water for a swim. While Claire put her feet in the water off the swim platform, it was too cold for Denise and Captain Mark to even attempt a swim. The charter boat ended up staying all night, and later in the evening they provided some musical entertainment for their guests as well as us.

For dinner, we left our boat in the harbor and took the dinghy back outside to the northeastern corner of the Sound to to Abel’s Lobster Pound. Although they do serve lobster, it is actually a nice restaurant where we have dined before. We knew they did not take reservations and figured we should get there early, expecting an hour or so wait. We arrived just after 5:00 pm and were told it would be a 90 minute wait. While Claire and Mark got us drinks at the bar, Denise was able to secure some Adirondack chairs that overlooked the beautiful sound. Finally, after 2 hours we were seated at an outdoor table and placed our orders. Our waiter was great and the food was delicious, but like every other restaurant we have encountered they have a short-staff issue and it led to delays.

During dinner we were getting anxious because rain was forecasted to come in during the evening and we still had to get in the dinghy and drive back to the boat. Additionally, the sun was starting to set and although we have portable running lights for the dinghy, we forgot to bring a flashlight. As soon as we were done eating we expedited the delivery of the check, and made a rapid exit to the get the dinghy. Then going as fast as we dared in the diminished light, Captain Mark drove us back to the boat in Somes Harbor, arriving just as the rain started. By the time we were on board it was pouring raining; we had made it in the nick of time.

Wednesday (7/28) – Burnt Coat Harbor, (BCH) Swan’s Island, Maine

We woke to a beautiful morning in Somes Harbor with temperature near 60° and little wind. It was another beautiful day and we were happy to be on the water in such conditions.

We left Somes Harbor just after 8:00 am and headed through Somes Sound, then out the Western Way Inlet heading southwest leaving the Gott Islands, Black Island, and Sister Islands to our starboard, and Long Island (and the town of Frenchboro) to our port. We rounded the southeastern end of Swan’s Island and entered Burnt Coat Harbor in search of a mooring ball for the night. We found one that the lobster Co-Op. rents out for $25 per night, and we put our money in the bottle attached to the mooring pendant.

When we arrived, we noticed there were two more multi-masts charter sailboats in the anchorage. These boats are very common in this area and many sail out of Camden, with itineraries that take them to these beautiful areas. Fortunately, they do not have a large number of passengers like the cruise ships that go into Bar Harbor.

Once we got the boat settled we launched the dinghy and took it to the dinghy dock on the backside of the lobster Co-Op. We watched the operations at the Co-Op for a bit as they were unloading from the boats, processing the catch, and hauling them up a conveyor to the waiting truck for immediate transportation.

We left the wharf where the Co-Op was located and headed down the road to the Burnt Cove Harbor lighthouse. There are nice and interesting homes that line the roadway and right near the entrance to the park where the lighthouse is located was an old and small cemetery that overlooks the islands to the south.

From there we took the hiking trail to the summit of the hill, and then back down to the area where the lighthouse and museum is located. It just so happened that as we arrived at the lighthouse one of the sailboat charters was leaving the harbor and made for an awesome picture.

The old lighthouse keeper’s house is where the museum is located (downstairs), but upstairs serves as a vacation getaway and can also be rented. We met the museum director and two docents, one of whom took us up to the top of the lighthouse on a personal tour. Afterwards, we were invited to sit on the back porch to eat our picnic lunch and enjoy the fresh sea air and gorgeous view. You can learn more about this lighthouse here.

After lunch, we walked back down the hill towards the harbor and the Co-Op. We were considering getting some lobsters from the Co-Op for dinner, but Claire and Denise wanted to continue walking first. Since Mark’s foot was hurting him he did not wish to continue walking and agreed to wait at the CoOp. Leaving Mark to find a place to sit down, the girls continued on for another mile to investigate TIMS (The Island Market & Supply); a place we had read about as being the only “market” on the island. We were hoping to get some corn on the cob to have with lobsters for our dinner, but fresh produce isn’t really available at this store. In fact, while TIMS does have all basics, it was so small that it makes a 7-11 look like a Costco. Let’s just say our boat is bigger than this overpriced island necessity.

From TIMS we went to explore a building that looked like an old hotel. A nearby local told us it was “Odd Fellows Hall” and that on Sunday mornings they have an all-you-can-eat breakfast; they told us to bring cholesterol medicine if we come. It was also going to be the venue for the night’s “summer resident” town meeting.

On our way back to meet Mark at the Co-Op, we noticed a sign on the wall of the fire station for free carrots and corn in a cooler. We stopped and grabbed 3 ears that had already been shucked to take back to the boat for dinner. We got a kick out of the note on the sign!

We were almost to the Co-Op when we took a turn down a road we thought might be a short cut back along the water. It was not, but in the process we got to see another part of the harbor, and a beautifully restored old home. We ended up talking to the owner (Chris Pope) who come to find out also owns the property across the street and all the way down to the harbor. He told us the lot above his (which he owns) is for sale and Claire became really interested when she heard the price for the land. The fact that it was a huge lot overlooking the harbor, and already had an approved septic system plan made it incredibly attractive. However, she later decided that this island was just a bit too remote for her retirement lifestyle.

Finally, we met up with Mark at the Co-Op who had purchased our lobsters for dinner, and managed to get the women running the Co-Op to lend us a crate to keep them in until they were going into the pot. However, the crate and the 3 of us would not all fit in the dinghy at the same time. Mark first delivered the crate to the boat, then came back to get Claire, Denise and the lobsters who were in a temporary bag until we would pop them back into their natural habitat.

Once on board we made preparations for dinner. Our ‘surf n turn’ meal was planned out and Mark fired up the grill while Denise & Claire prepped the pot for the “bugs”. Together we put together a terrific meal on our Island Office, while creating more memories in the great state of Maine. We all decided we liked this place and we were very glad we came.

Here are a few other pictures from our day:

Thursday (7/29) – Buck’s Harbor Marina, Brooksville, Maine

We woke up to another terrific day in Maine with a beautiful sunrise.

While waiting for the Captain to wake, the crew spent time with emails and talking. Then once everyone was up and breakfast was done, we let go of our mooring and headed to the Co-Op where we took on more diesel fuel before heading out of the harbor. It was just after 8:30 am and we only had 20+ miles to go before reaching our final destination for the day. However, we had an interim stopped planned so we were ok to leave early and allow time for our adventure.

We exited Burnt Coat Harbor to the southwest, passing the lighthouse and entered Toothacher Bay, leaving small rock islands and Marshall Island to port.

Once past the Southwest corner of Swan’s Island we turned north and cruised through Jericho Bay until it merged with the Eggemoggin Reach. We then cruised over to the eastern shore of this long body of water, keeping Babson & Little Babson Island on our left and the mainland (Naskeag Point) to our right. Here we made a planned stop at the Wooden Boat School (WBS); a place we have wanted to visit and never could fit it into our itinerary. It is near the village of Brookline (pronounced like “Brooklyn”) and is also where “Wooden Boat” magazine originates.

We looked for a WBS mooring ball, but none were available for a boat our size, so we anchored just north of the mooring field. We had only traveled 11 miles and it was still early in the day. However, there were two big sailing charters (previously at BCH) who had already disembarked passengers to both the dock at WBS, as well as to Babson Island. By the time we launched our dinghy and got to the dock, many were already waiting on the launch to take them back to their sailing vessels. This was the second time we would follow the passengers from these charters, with them leaving as we arrived; the first was at the BCH Lighthouse. This allowed for us to have undivided attention instead of getting mixed up in their crowd.

We walked up the hill from the dock to the school where we were allowed to watch the students in their various work areas. The first area we visited was a week-long class where the students build their own small wooden sailing vessels. Here one of the instructors came out and gave us the tutorial of the students in his class, as well as an explanation about the school, and what other activities were taking place in the adjacent buildings. We walked around to each of these and saw a full boat restoration area, a wood-bending area, a wood storage area, and a cutting area. The most striking observation was that most all of the students were senior citizens who were in this for the hobby of wooden boat-building and repair, although there were a few younger students as well. The school also offers all kinds of other (non-boat building) classes which are held in one of their other buildings nearby. You can learn more about the WBS here and the magazine here.

After touring the in-session classes, we went to the Wooden Boat Store and purchased a few souvenir and gift items. We then went back to the dock, got in the dinghy and motored back to our anchored boat. It was now time to continue our journey north.

We pulled up anchor and headed back north on the Eggemoggin Reach dodging lobster pots the whole way there. We cruised under the Deer Isle Bridge that connects Deer Isle with the mainland, and soon saw the entrance into the channel to take us to Buck’s Harbor Marina, in Brooksville.

Approaching Buck’s Harbor Marina and Moorings

We pulled into the only dock at this marina, which just so happens to be their fuel dock. The owner/dockmaster (John) was not expecting us so soon and commented that he could not have us take up space on his fuel dock; check-in was at 4:30. Since he never mentioned that when the reservations were made, and there is nothing stated in any of the publications we read, we were surprised. We agreed to take a mooring ball until we could come on the dock at the appropriate time, and made our way to find the one he assigned us. We launched the dinghy and headed into the marina to check in and then go for a walk; we wanted to show Claire the area.

We walked up the hill from the marina office, and visited the Buck’s Harbor Market, showed her the venue for tonight’s dinner, and then walked over to the Buck’s Harbor Yacht Club.

Meanwhile, we had been checking on the weather and knew that rain and wind was in the forecast. We were grateful we were going to be in this mostly protected harbor for the impending storm, but it was supposed to hit about the time we were to get back from dinner. We had discussed staying on the mooring ball and saving money, but we didn’t want to have to take a dinghy in the rain to get back to the boat after dinner. We nixed the idea of staying on the mooring. By the time we got back to the marina, the storm was getting closer and the rain was now going to start before dinner. We went back to the boat to prepare it before the weather came in, and at 4:30 we were told it was ok to come to the dock, which we did. As we were getting ready for dinner it started to rain, and then pour, then it let up so as to only be a drizzle. When it was time for us to walk up the hill and go to the restaurant, John was closing up the marina office and gave us a lift to the restaurant. He also loaned us a second umbrella for the walk back as it was expected to rain all night.

We had reservations at Buck’s Restaurant and we were excited to dine here as it has a great reputation and was closed on the day we were here in 2019. Our friends Mark & Jenay (“Ravello”) had just eaten here last week and loved it, so we too were excited. The restaurant was crowded with a lively atmosphere, but not loud. All 3 of our meals were absolutely delicious, and the Chambord cheesecake with a lime shortbread crust that we shared was sublime. However, once again we found the wait staff to be short-staffed and focused on getting meals out and not the customer service you would expect from such a high end restaurant. Despite this, we would still give it a great recommendation.

We ended the meal and left the restaurant expecting rain; fortunately there was none. We walked back to the boat without issue and settled in for the night. But during the night the storm came and it rained hard and the winds howled. The boat really rocked and bounced with the floating dock, and the waves flapping the side of the hull was quite loud. We wondered if we would have been better off on a mooring after all; at least it would have been quieter.

Here are some other pictures from Buck’s Harbor Marina:

Friday (7/30) – Belfast, Maine

The captain and crew did not sleep well during the night due to all the wind and rain and we were anxious to get to Belfast and a real marina. Sadly, Claire was leaving us and because of the long drive back to Tallahassee, she too was anxious to get going. Her husband would be meeting us in Belfast to pick her up.

We left Buck’s Harbor Marina just after 8:00 am and cruised onto Penobscot Bay. The weather was still blustery and there was a bit of fog, but we still had good enough visibility that we did not need radar. Seventeen miles later we were pulling into the town of Belfast; one of our favorite stops on Penobscot Bay. We were assigned the inside most slip that also shares the finger with the fuel dock. Almost immediately Claire’s husband showed up and we had to say good-bye. We had a great time making more memories with her, and we were so happy to show her Maine from the water.

After Claire left, we found ourselves really tired and not wanting to do too much. There was laundry and boat chores to do, plus we had some work that required attention. However, we just were not in the mood to tackle it all just yet. We did the bare minimum of work and then went for a walk around the waterfront and the downtown.

We first went to check in at the marina office, and then we went to investigate the large boat hull that was at a nearby boat builder/restorer (French & Webb). Come to find out the boat is the USS Sequoia, the former Presidential Yacht originally commissioned by Herbert Hoover. This boat is in the yard for a multi-million dollar, multi-year refurbishment that will be replacing much of its wooden hull. This yacht has a rich history, including being designed by John Trumpy. As most know we are huge fans of Trumpy yachts (See post from Friday 4/12/19 where we had drinks aboard “Lady Catherine” here). We spoke with one of the workers who shared with us some of their restoration plans, and we have since researched a bit about the new owners. You can learn about this beautiful yacht’s history here and here.

Next, we walked up the hill to see about dinner at a well-liked restaurant (“Meanwhile in Belfast”), but nixed it when we learned that their post-Covid dinner-only dining was now all fixed-price with a set menu and more than we wanted to spend. Instead we were able to get reservations for an early dinner at Delvino’s Grill & Pasta House; our favorite restaurant in all of Belfast.

We returned to the boat in time for lunch, then spent the afternoon doing a little work, then reading books. During this time, the boat in the slip next to us, that has no finger pier in between us, was coming back from getting a pump-out and bumped our boat. Fortunately, our respective rub-rails were the point of contact and no damage was done to either boat. The captain was very apologetic and since no damage was done we had no issue with him. This was the second time in less than 4 weeks in which someone has hit our boat while it was in its slip.

We headed up the hill in time for our early dinner at Delvino’s, which was so delicious and filling; we even had leftovers for another meal. After dinner we went for a walk along the waterfront and to the Front Street Marina to look at the boats in the water and in their yard. This working marina is now the “go-to” location for repairs and winter storage, and has helped to revitalize the Belfast waterfront. There are lots of big boats here and the reason so many big yachts now come to Belfast.

And so this ends our post of the week with Claire and some wonderful adventures. Stay tuned for more!

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Belfast, Bucks Harbor Marina, Burnt Coat Harbor, MDI, Somes Sound, SW Harbor, Wooden Boat School

Enjoying Ellsworth!

Posted on August 5, 2021 | Comments Off

Friday (7/23) – Ellsworth, Maine

We left NE Harbor and headed out to Ellsworth, where we would be retrieving two things: our repaired dinghy, and eventually Denise’s sister, Claire (late Sunday night). But first we had to stop at SW Harbor and go back to Dysart’s Great Harbor Marina to pick up our dinghy engine, as they had been storing it for us during the week. The people at Dysart’s are terrific and really have gone out of the way to help us. For this we are very grateful.

We exited NE Harbor and cruised the very short distance to SW Harbor. It was a spectacularly beautiful day and one we hope will be repeated next week when Claire is with us. We could clearly see all the mountains of MDI and is the reason we love cruising here.

As we entered SE Harbor, we radioed Dysart’s marina but were asked to wait outside their breakwater as there was a workboat at the fuel dock where we would be pulling in. So we waited as instructed, admiring the view and commenting that there were worse places we could be “held up”.

After about 10 minutes we got the ok and we made our way to the dock. In addition to the dinghy engine, we picked up the package containing Denise’s computer power cord from Dell. Despite all the hassle with the package delivery, we did get satisfactory service in a timely manner from Dell.

Once the dinghy engine was loaded onboard in the cockpit, we left SW Harbor and headed out through the Western Way Inlet. It was a gorgeous day and we were smiling….finally we got to enjoy nice weather and sunshine. It was a perfect day to be on the water.

We rounded the corner of MDI and headed west, passing through the Bass Harbor Bar and eventually the Bass Harbor Light.

We then turned north into Blue Hill Bay where we could still see MDI to our right. In 2019 we followed a similar path for part of the way, then turned northwest to the town of Blue Hill. This time we continued north all the way until it turns into Union River Bay, passing Bartlett Island to our right, and eventually Newbury Neck on our left. Up ahead we could see what appeared to be large tents on the mainland, and later learned they are part of “Under Canvas Acadia”; a resort offering an all-inclusive “glamping” experience. You can learn more about this place here.

We entered the very narrow and shallow channel of the Union River, leaving the wide expanse of the bay behind us. Although the river was narrow and windy, the tree-lined banks were beautiful it reminded us of the Waccamaw River in SC. We came around the last bend and the river opened up so we could see the moorings and then eventually the Ellsworth Harbor Park & Marina. We were assigned to the north end of the fuel dock for our long weekend stay, and the Assistant Dockmaster Will was there to assist with the tie-up.

As we entered the Union River we had received a call from the guys completing our dinghy repair, and made arrangements for them to deliver it to us. Early in the afternoon they were able to deliver it to us at the dock, and with Will’s help they were able to easily carry the dinghy down the ramp, put it in the water, and then install the heavy dinghy engine. Denise was so happy to have so much testosterone around!

We spent the rest of the afternoon working and putting together a tentative itinerary for the next week. In the evening, we walked from the marina into the downtown area, over the bridge that crosses the Union River, and to the Union River Lobster Pot restaurant for dinner. The place came highly recommended by everyone we talked to and the food did not disappoint. The restaurant is located on the bank of the Union River, at a point that is no longer navigable during low tide. It has Adirondack chairs that overlook the river, allowing you to wait in a pleasant surrounding while waiting (quite a while in some cases) for your indoor (or outdoor) table. Although a bit touristy, it was still a fun spot and a delicious meal. No, we did not eat lobster again; we got fish instead.

at Union River Lobster Pot – lobster steamers

Saturday (7/24) – Ellsworth, Maine

It was Saturday and that meant a running day for Denise, who tries to leave early and in order to get a view of the city before it gets too busy. This provides great unencumbered photo opportunities and sometimes a chance to run in the roads instead of the hazard-ridden old sidewalks of these hilly towns. It was a beautiful day and the temperature was perfect for a run. But today, the thought of climbing the steep ramp just to get off the boat kept her procrastinating. It was low tide and that meant a 10’+ difference between our boat and the fixed pier.

Finally mustering up the courage and the energy she headed out on a run around town and up and down US 3, before returning back to the boat. Here are a few pictures from town:

After returning to the boat, getting breakfast and showers, we headed out to pick up a rental car. Mark was able to secure an affordable one through the local car dealership; a trick we learned when doing the Great Loop in 2015-2016. It was one third the price of Avis, Budget, or Enterprise, and their operating hours fit with our pickup and return schedule.

Once we had secured the rental car, we spent the day completing a handful of errands, including stops at Walmart, the grocery store, the LLBean Outlet, and the reclamation center to turn in our bottles and cans. We also used the car to explore a few other places in town, including “Rooster Brother”; a large 3-story cooking store, outlet, and gourmet food store.

Denise also did a little shopping in the downtown area, but it didn’t last long as she noticed her cell phone was missing. Mark had gone to park the car and she was able to call him from a nearby restaurant’s phone to advise she didn’t have it. After some backtracking to the cooking store by foot (Denise), Mark returned to look for it on the boat and found it plugged into the charger; it had been there all afternoon. Panic now over!

In the evening, we went to mass at St. Joseph’s Catholic Church, and then went to Finn’s a local Irish pub that was outstanding.

This was the second restaurant that assistant dockmaster Will had recommended and we now had great confidence in his suggestions. Over the course of a few days we have come to know and respect this young man. He has boated his whole life and loves the water. In the fall he will be attending the Maine Maritime Academy in Castine and looks forward to spending the rest of his life doing what he loves. We wish him the best of luck in this endeavor.

Throughout the day we watched many locals come to the marina for fuel or to tie up for a bit to the dock. Many were interested in our boat and would come by and talk with us; many too were surprised we had come all the way from Florida. Everyone we met were incredibly friendly and offered us suggestions for dining or things to see in the area. We liked this town a lot, and though not a usual stop for cruisers, we would recommend it highly.

Sunday (7/25) – Ellsworth, Maine

Mark wanted to go to a diner for breakfast this morning, and Martha’s was suggested by all the locals. Given the warning to go early, we headed out just after 8:00 am and there was a short line. We had learned yesterday that there was a laundromat nearby, so we brought along a load of towels, figuring we would take care of this task after we ate. As luck would have it, the laundromat was two doors down from the diner, so while waiting to be seated we got the washing going.

While waiting to order we ended up in conversation with the couple at the table next to ours. Come to find out they are from St. Augustine and have a condominium overlooking Camachee Cove Marina, where we have stayed in the past. After we had ordered but before our food arrived, Denise was able to move the laundry from the washer to the dryer, and by the time our breakfast was over, the laundry was done.

We then spent the entire rest of the day cleaning the boat from stem to stern. Mark focused on the outside while Denise cleaned the inside. Mark also worked to make up the guest stateroom while Denise finished up polishing the chrome and organizing the Master stateroom. By the time we finished we were exhausted and took naps, but only briefly. Our boat was now ready for our guest (Claire) for the week.

Not wanting to mess up the galley (after all we worked hard to make it shine) we nixed the plans to eat onboard and decided to venture downtown again. Since we had a big breakfast, we were not really hungry for lunch, but decided on an early dinner at the Airline Brewing Company. The weather had not been great all afternoon, and the place was a bit crowded with people trying to escape the dampness. Luckily we secured a spot at the bar right away and didn’t have to wait long to be served. This is the storefront for a local microbrewery located in a nearby town which we did not know about. Denise tried their “blonde” beer and actually liked it, however, Mark ordered his usual gin & tonic with his dinner. The food was good, but not as memorable as Finn’s which we would have gladly gone back to, but they were not open for dinner on Sundays.

We went back to the boat and watched some TV, all the while keeping tabs on the departure of Claire’s plane from Boston. We would be driving to pick her up in Bangor, a 40-minute drive from Ellsworth and the main reason for our coming here. It ended up that the flight was delayed almost an hour, and by the time we drove to Bangor, picked her up and returned, it was quite late. However, along the way there was no traffic and we were not leaving Ellsworth early in the morning, so we all agreed to sleep in a little.

Here is a good pictorial depiction of the tide difference in this part of Maine:

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Ellsworth, NE Harbor

Happy Times in MDI Harbors!

Posted on August 3, 2021 | Comments Off

Tuesday (7/20) – Bar Harbor (MDI), Maine

Just before 8:30 am, we left Winter Harbor under less than ideal cruising conditions as it was a little foggy. We did not have far to go and could only arrive in Bar Harbor if the slip was available, so we didn’t want to leave too early. However, if we left later, the fog might thicken as the incoming tide would bring the cooler water that when mixed with the warm air would create the fog we were hoping to avoid. This is the downside to cruising in Maine in July. But despite the ever-presence of fog, we were still glad we made the trip to this part of what is considered the true start of “Downeast Maine.

As we left the harbor and headed around the house on Spectacle Island, we still had good visibility. We left the channel and entered into Frenchman’s Bay, where the fog was a little thicker. Fortunately, it cleared up as we rounded the Porcupine Islands that border the channel into Bar Harbor, and we got to see some of the beauty of these islands.

Spectacle Island – dock of home on channel

As we approached the marina in Bar Harbor we immediately saw our friend Herb’s boat (“Phantom”) on the nearby mooring. We had been in communication with him and had tentative plans for dinner; one of the reasons for taking our boat into this harbor. With the Island Explorer buses not running the Northeast Harbor or Southwest Harbor routes, this was our only option for getting to Bar Harbor on this trip. Our slip assignment was a side-tie on the pier nearest the public beach and town boat ramp. Once the boat was settled, we checked in at the harbormaster’s office and then went back to the boat to take care of some work-related items.

In the early afternoon, we went on a walk through this very touristy town. We were grateful no cruise ships were in port as that made negotiating the crowded streets tolerable. We had a few errands to run, and Denise was on a mission to find a pair of lobster-themed pajama’s exactly like the ones she bought in 2019. She loves the softness and comfort and wanted to get a back-up pair, but it took 3 stores before she found them in her size.

We returned to the boat and before long it was time to get ready for entertaining Herb and two other Gold Loopers Sherry & Alan (“Sea Pearl” and new boat “Sea Jamm”). We had invited all aboard our boat for drinks before heading to dinner. As luck would have it, the threatening rain hit just about the time they were to arrive and Herb (who arrived by dinghy) got totally drenched. Sherry & Alan showed up shortly after the rain ended, but since they were visiting via their RV, they stayed dry.

The rain stopped in time for us to walk up the hill to dinner at Geddi’s, a Bar Harbor Landmark which we had never been to before. We were seated right away and grateful for Herb making the reservations earlier in the day as the place was packed and there was a long line to wait without them. We had a fun time talking and getting to know Sherry & Alan, who completed their Loop in 2014, and listening to Herbs stories (as he tells so well). After dinner we said goodbye to all and walked back to our boat for the rest of the evening.

Earlier in the day we had made the decision that we did not want to stay a second night in Bar Harbor. Captain Mark had called North East (NE) Harbor Marina to see if we could get in for a two-night stay there beginning on Wednesday. We were confirmed for one night at the marina with a possibility for a second night; otherwise that would be on a mooring ball. We were ok with this since they have a launch service we can use to get to/from land if we have to move to a mooring ball. With arrangements confirmed, we made plans to leave in the morning and hoped the weather would cooperate.

Wednesday (7/21) – Northeast Harbor (MDI), Maine

At 4:00 am we woke to a lobster boat coming to the town boat ramp located right near our boat. It was loading some equipment from a pickup truck (on the ramp) onto the boat, and made a lot of noise. Additionally, it rocked our boat with his wake when approaching and when leaving.

Unable to go back to sleep, around 5:30 Denise finally got up and went for a run in town. Having run a half marathon here, she knew some of the area outside of the (very touristy) downtown and took to those paths. The hills and higher elevation made it quite difficult, but she still got to see spot some wildlife not too far from the main downtown area.

Meanwhile, the fog came in then lifted, then rolled back in again. At one point we could not even see the tour boat about 100 yards in front of us. We postponed our departure as long as possible, and finally decided to leave when the fog seemed to have abated a bit.

We left Bar Harbor marina and cruised back around Porcupine Island and headed south and then west into Eastern Way Inlet. We passed the light at Eastern Rock Ledge to the left, but couldn’t see it as the fog was still pretty thick. We also missed the beautiful mountains we knew were to our right (including Cadillac Mountain). However, as we approached the entrance to Seal Harbor the fog lifted a bit and by the time we arrived at the buoys at the entrance to NE Harbor we had very good visibility. It took us 1.5 hours to go to 12 miles in the fog, but we successfully pulled into our slip with no issues.

We ate our lunch before checking into the marina office, then spent the rest of the afternoon doing work for clients, getting caught up on email, and cataloging pictures. Later in the afternoon we checked with the office and they confirmed we would not be able to remain in the slip a second day, so in the morning we would be moving to a mooring ball. As such we would be eating dinner on board the next night and decided to go to dinner onshore tonight. Herb (“Phantom”) had suggested to us to try the “The Nor’easter” restaurant at the hotel on the hill above the marina, so we decided to give it a try. We had a delicious meal there, and Mark recalls us eating there before (2017?), but it appears to have changed for the better since then.

When we arrived today in NE Harbor, we noticed a large yacht (“Ariel”) on the end of the pier that we had met in the past, but couldn’t remember where. Later in the day we finally had a chance to talk with Miles and his wife Laureen, who reminded us that it was at Dolphin Marina in 2017, and they remembered us. Again another “small world” cruising story to add to a now long-list.

Thursday (7/22) – Northeast Harbor (MDI), Maine

Taking advantage of being connected to land, Denise went for run in the morning before Mark was even up. She ran on a new route that connected to the road she had taken in 2019 when she jumped into 5-mile race then. This included a run down the tree-lined road that borders the beautiful Somes Sound, Gilpatrick Cove, and eventually downtown NE Harbor.

Once back on the boat and after eating breakfast, Denise went up to the farmer’s market, held every Thursday morning. The Covid-effect was in full-force as it was about half as big as it had been in the past, and we were disappointed that there were not more produce offerings. While she was gone, Mark filled up the boat with water and gave it a quick rinse off; rain was expected so he didn’t want to spend time giving it the full wash treatment. Not 30 minutes later a flock of birds flew overhead and made a deposit right on the top of the roof!

We stayed in our slip as long as possible, and as soon as the assigned mooring was cleared by the previous occupant, we moved our Island Office to the mooring. It was a good location in way up in the harbor and we would be well protected from the wind that would accompany the expected storms.

IO at NE Harbor Marina slip – “Ariel” behind us

We spent the rest of the day working on the last blog update, doing work for clients and watching the coming and going of all the boats in the harbor.

In the late afternoon we watched the weather reports and could see on radar that Ellsworth (25 miles north) was getting pummeled with severe wind and rain. When we looked to the north we could see the clouds forming and fully expected to get some of it, but it never materialized (despite the severe weather forecasts for us). In the evening we were treated to our first clear sunset and moonrise in many days.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Bar Harbor, Fisherman's Bay, Northeast Harbor

Schoodic Point!

Posted on July 23, 2021 | Comments Off

Monday (7/19) – Winter Harbor (Schoodic Peninsula), Maine

It was still damp and misty when we first woke, but the fog was not too bad. At the end of Sand Cove (near our mooring) is a street and then just beyond that is the Grindstone Neck Golf Course where we have watched a few golfers attempt to play, despite the weather.

But make no mistake about it, this area is a working cove for the lobsterman and there were posts all over the mooring field. When in these coves and working harbors, it is not unusual to have this. As a result, in the early morning hours we are frequently woken up by the sounds of the lobster boats coming to retrieve and/or relaunch their pots (also known as traps). When in a harbor where they also keep their boats, we first hear the sounds of their dinghy engine as they approach their boats (sometime around 3:30 – 4:00 am). Then we hear the roar of the lobster boat engine as it gets underway (around 4:00 am or later). Sometimes they are quiet and all we feel is their massive wake and the slap of water against our hull. Other times the lobsterman are blaring their VHF radios or music. These differ depending on where we are along the Maine coast. If Downeast or on the more remote islands, the lobsterman rule and they make it a point to let cruisers know this is their turf. In the more touristy areas like Rockland, Camden or Boothbay Harbors there may be more courtesy for the cruising yachts and sailboats. However, all of this is part of the atmosphere and we take it all in; it is what makes Maine so wonderfully authentic.

Just before 9:00 am, we called for the yacht club launch to come and pick us up. The driver came out right away and took us to the WHYC where we checked in with the dockmaster who had just arrived. We then took a walk around the facilities to see this very old established club and during that time the fog rolled in and shrouded the entire cove. It was eerily quiet and still.

We then headed out on our adventure for the day. We took the road that ran along the edge of Sand Cove and walked to the Village of Winter Harbor.

We were going to go in the “5 & 10 Variety Store” but since the next Island Explorer bus was arriving in 10 minutes we nixed the idea and went to the pickup location. It was located right next to the Arts building, which was a former school house.

The Island Explorer bus has been a main source of transportation for us in years past. But, due to Covid, they have had to cut back on the routes so they could increase the frequency of key necessary routes. This was done as they cannot have anyone standing on the buses (“social distancing”) and therefore they needed to run the buses in these popular routes more frequently. Since there are insufficient buses to add to all the routes, they have cut back on the routes and changed the stops and schedules. The bus to Schoodic Point was still running as it takes people to the park of Acadia National Park that is on this peninsula, and to the Schoodic Woods Campground. We took this particular bus which only had one stop at the campgrounds, and only took 20 minutes.

When we arrived at Schoodic Point the fog had lifted a bit but, it was still too foggy to see the Mark Island Lighthouse on a nearby island. However, we did get to see the beautiful water and coastline, not to mention the amazing rocks. This area was formed from the cooling of magma during past volcanic activity, and the mix of granite with large veins of dark basalt make it an amazing site. You can read about this great place here.

We were expecting to stay only until the next bus arrived (20 minutes). But we were captured with the beauty of the rocks and the numerous colors. We ended up staying until the next bus (40 minutes) which took us back to the Village of Winter Harbor. Denise went into the “5 & 10 Variety Store” (local hardware, souvenir, etc.) shop that sells everything from household goods, t-shirts and fabric. After a few purchases, she met up with Mark who was trying to have a business call with one of our associates.

We have been very challenged to even have cell phone signal in this area, let alone internet services and we were told the Library had free open Wi-Fi. We walked to the library only to discover they are only open from Wednesday through Sunday. Fortunately, we were able to pick up their Wi-Fi signal on the backside of their building to make an important phone call; we were trying to reroute a package for delivery that had been delivered to the wrong building in Ellsworth instead of the dockmaster’s office (more about this later).

After the call was made at the library, we started to walk back to the boat, but stopped at the local lobster Co-Op. Here we purchased two “shredder” lobsters for tonight’s dinner, and some fresh haddock to put in our freezer for a future meal. The “shredders” are lobsters which have shed their shells and the new one is not yet tough. They are usually smaller in size and have less meat, but they are sweeter and tenderer. They are also more expensive and rarely get shipped to restaurants and processors. It’s the hard shelled lobster that everyone usually gets.

By the time we walked back to the boat, the fog had lifted and we got to see the beauty of the area. Unfortunately, it did not last and with the incoming high tide the fog returned. This time it was much thicker and we could hardly see even the neighboring boats.

We cooked up our lobsters for dinner and enjoyed a nice quiet meal aboard. Then went back to reading our books until we turned in for the night.

About the package: Denise’s computer power supply had died and because it was under warranty, Dell sent us a new one. The package was supposed to be shipped to the Ellsworth City Marina where we knew we would be on a certain date. However, when the part-time harbormaster informed us (when we visited the day we had the Dysart’s truck) that packages must say to deliver to the “Harbormasters office” or they won’t get them. This is what happened and the shipment was returned to Dell by Fed-ex. We spent time trying to get the package re-routed to Belfast, ME where we know we will be at the end of the month.

One of the benefits of staying in a cove or remote area is the absolute beauty of nature that we get to experience. Sand Cove is no exception, and while here we have seen seals in the water, bald eagles in the air, and the most unusual fish who have a dorsal fin that protrudes above the water’s surface. It is almost like they are inviting the birds, seals and other predators to come find them and eat them. It is something we have never seen before.

Tomorrow we will leave for Bar Harbor, and hope the weather and fog clear for easy cruising.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Schoodic Point, Winter Harbor

Southwest Harbor Surprises!

Posted on July 23, 2021 | Comments Off

Thursday (7/15) – Southwest Harbor, (Mount Desert Island – MDI), Maine

We left Perry Creek right at 8:00, and could easily see the fog on Seal Cove. We knew we would have it for some of today’s journey to Southwest Harbor, but we had hoped it would clear by the time we reached the Western Way Inlet so we could see the beautiful mountains on Mount Desert Island.

We left Seal Cove and turned east into the Fox Islands Thoroughfare and continuing through the eastern part of Penobscot Bay; all of it in thick fog with little visibility. We entered the Deer Isle Thoroughfare and passed the town of Stonington to our left (barely visible) and Crotch Island (where there is still an active quarry) to our right. Stonington is a lobsterman’s town and there are not a lot of places for cruisers to stay. Additionally, there are stories of lobster boats intentionally causing uncomfortable wakes and scary close range passes near boats in order to discourage anchoring in the nearby coves. For this reason we have never stopped here to explore the town.

Deer Island Thoroughfare – Near Stonington

We continued our path east in fog, dodging the numerous lobster posts all over the place. We left the Deer Isle Thoroughfare and crossed Jericho Bay, again in thick fog. Thankfully, there was also little wind and the bay was fairly flat. On a clear day we would be able to see the northern shore of Swan’s Island (and parts of Acadia National Forrest on the island), but not today.

Finally, we passed Bass Harbor at the southern end of Mount Desert Island and rounded the corner into Western Way Inlet. The fog had lessened a bit, but we could only see part of the beautiful mountains that make up this great place. Several houses along the coastline (in the town of Seawall) were now visible, and fortunately, the fog was mostly gone by the time we approached the village of Southwest (SW) Harbor. Here we had a reservation at Dysart’s Great Harbor Marina and contacted them for our slip assignment, to get fuel, and for a pump-out.

As we approached the fuel dock we were surprised to see a Fleming 55 that we knew from our 2017 and 2019 trips, but in Solomons, MD. We waved as we passed, and as we were fueling up, Mark (“Ravello”) came by with his visiting grandson to see us and to say hello. We agreed to connect up later in the day, or definitely over the weekend as they are staying here all season.

After our fuel up, pump out and getting our boat settled into the slip, we went to check in with the dockmaster. Mark had been in touch with the dinghy repair people and wanted to schedule the use of the marina courtesy pickup truck for early tomorrow morning. We needed to be in Ellsworth when they opened at 8:00 am, in order to give them the maximum amount of time to repair the dinghy, without causing delays in our trip. The drive was about 45 minutes, and we would have taken it today, but the only major highway into town was closed as they were moving a house and it wouldn’t reopen in time for us to get there. This is what life is like here in Maine.

Wanting to stretch her legs and knowing we needed milk, Denise opted to go into the village (half-mile away) to get some. Unfortunately, she discovered the town market (Sawyer’s) was closed. It has been sold and the new owners have not yet reopened; Covid being a contributing factor. She walked around town a bit doing reconnaissance shopping and seeing what changed since 2019, then returned to the boat empty-handed.

Meanwhile, Mark had been on conference calls and coordinating the logistics of the dinghy repair. He was able to gain the assistance of the dockmaster and his assistant to help him get the dinghy engine off the dinghy, as well as taking the dinghy itself off the boat and hauling it up the ramp. They then hoisted it in the pickup truck and set it up for us to take to Ellsworth in the morning. The marina also agreed to store the engine for us while the dinghy is in repair, meaning we will have to come back to SW Harbor to get it once we get the dinghy back from the repair.

It had been a busy day and the fog came in during the late afternoon. We were not in the mood to go out and decided to eat dinner on the boat and stay in for the rest of the night.

Friday (7/16) – Southwest Harbor (MDI), Maine

We were up early and saw how socked in with fog the entire harbor was. But that didn’t stop life on the wharf of this working marina. There were two flatbed semi-trucks on the wharf delivering many plastic Gaylords of feed for local area fish farms. They unloaded them onto the wharf and queued them to later be loaded onto a work boat that would take them to their destination. Denise talked with one of the truck drivers and learned all about the Canadian company that owned the feed processor, the fish farms, and the distribution of this circular supply chain.

Around 7:15 am we got the Dysart’s truck and headed to Ellsworth. In keeping with typical small-town Maine, the keys were in the truck, and (thankfully) so was our dinghy. We had an uneventful drive to Ellsworth and literally arrived as they were opening the door. We dropped off the dinghy and Mark discussed the expected date for it to be done. We then drove to the town dock & marina, where we will be staying next weekend, and where we will retrieve the repaired dinghy. We wanted to check it out and make sure it was as advertised. Even though it was early we met one of the part-time dockmasters and were satisfied the accommodations would work.

Taking advantage of having transportation, and because we were in a big town (comparatively speaking), we went to the grocery store and stocked up on some much needed items, including milk. The Hannaford’s grocery store here is bigger than the one in Bar Harbor and we were anxious to get a few things for the pantry.

We headed back to SW Harbor and arrived in time for low tide, just before 11:00 am. This meant the floating docks were much lower in the water from the marina wharf, and the attached ramp was quite steep. Mark took the dock cart full of groceries and very carefully lowered it down the ramp, all the while Denise was praying the cart didn’t get away from him and all the food ended up in the water. Fortunately, the fear was unfounded and Captain Mark did a stellar job of getting it all to the boat without incident.

Once all the groceries were stowed, we walked through town and all the way across the harbor to Beal’s Lobster Pound for lunch. We had been craving lobster rolls and didn’t mind the pleasant mile walk. And here we got sticker shock once again. Our two-beer and two-lobster roll lunch cost us $96 (with tip). Yup, a full lobster dinner was only $29 but the rolls were $32. We later were told that due to the closing of the Canadian border, the US is providing all the lobsters to both the US markets (restaurants, etc.) as well as offshore; China is the #1 recipient of these fine crustaceans. Adding to the spike in demand is a shortage of labor to “pick” the cooked lobster meat out of the shells for the rolls, chowders, etc. and thus driving up the price for this commodity. Ah the laws of supply and demand!

Expensive but delicious lobster rolls at Beals

We returned to the boat and figured we would finish up our Friday with doing work and other related tasks. While we were concentrating on this activity another boater approached us and asked if we really were from Winter Park, FL. He introduced himself as “Gator” (“Side Tracked”) and mentioned he is from Orlando. He had brought his boat in while we were at lunch, and was now side-tied on the dock behind our boat. A quick conversation ensued and before long we learned that Gator’s younger brother (Tommy) was in Denise’s class at BMHS. Additionally, he is a Looper and had his Great Loop impacted this year by the closed Canadian Border. What a surprise! We chatted for a while and agreed to get together; he and his wife (Lisa) wanted to pick our brain as they were going to modify their cruising plans and wanted input on Maine and the Hudson River in NY. One thing led to another and neither of us were available for the rest of the day, so it would have to wait until Saturday.

So now here is a very funny coincidence about our boating life: Over the last few years we have met 3 older brothers of Denise’s Bishop Moore High School classmates. Mind you, the graduating class was less than 200 people. In 2017 we met Mark and his wife Jenay (“Ravello”) in Solomon’s, MD; the brother to classmate Jim. In 2019, we met Ken & Celeste (“God’s Grace”) at Shady Harbor Marina in NY; the brother to Captain Barry. And now we meet Gator, and his wife Lisa; brother to Tommy. What an incredible small world!

Early in the evening we walked into the village of SW Harbor for dinner. We wanted casual and based on a local’s recommendation we went into “Hearth & Harbor” to taste their wood fired pizza. It was good and the ingredients were very fresh with an incredibly thin crust. We liked it our meal and topped it off with an ice cream cone; a first in a long time. There are some things that just taste better in Maine.

We walked back to the boat and spent the rest of the evening watching “Clarkson’s Farm”, a hilarious British series on Prime; our first streaming or watching of any tv in a very long time.

Saturday (7/17) – Southwest Harbor (MDI), Maine

For Denise, the day started with a run around SW Harbor, heading out past the town of Manset. Her route took her on the southern rim of SW Harbor before turning around and heading back towards the village, and then the marina.

Once back on the boat, and after we were done with breakfast, we took to doing routine chores, including doing some laundry (Denise) and washing the boat (Mark). Later that morning, Denise got together with Gator and Lisa (“Side Tracked”) before they had to leave to take Lisa to the airport as she was flying home. She suggested places this Maine first-timer might want to stop, and educated them on some other benefits of the ALGCA and MTOA memberships we both shared. Then they left and Denise returned to the boat for lunch aboard.

After lunch, we spent some time deciding where we were going to go in the next few days. Now that we are without a dinghy, we had to choose locations where we could stay at a marina, in a harbor with a launch, or be confined to the boat. For safety reasons this last option was not a real consideration. We had been wanting to go 50 miles more Downeast to Rogue and Mistake Islands, where we had plans to overnight in 2019 on our way home from Canada, but weather kept us from that stop. Now, it looked like we would once again miss the opportunity to head that way. We did decide to go to Winter Harbor on the Schoodic Peninsula (not to be confused with the Winter Harbor on Vinalhaven Island), another place we had hoped to stop in 2019. The Winter Harbor Yacht Club had a launch, so we put that down as our next destination, some 11 miles to the east.

Over the last few weeks we had been in communication with Looper friend, Herb (“Phantom”) whom we’ve known since 2019, and had drinks on his “back porch” at Croton-on-Hudson in June. He was in Bar Harbor and wanted us to visit him. Since the free Island Explorer bus was not running from SW Harbor and had limited routes this year (thanks to Covid), the only way to do that was to take our boat to Bar Harbor and get a slip at the town marina. So we put that on the agenda as well, opting for additional nights. With a tentative schedule for the next few days, we now relaxed a bit and watched all the boat activity in the marina.

Over the last two days, we saw a few large yachts come into the marina and we wanted to check them out. In the late afternoon we went for a walk around the docks. First stopping by to talk with Jenay (“Ravello”) as they had returned from their overnight adventure, but Mark was not on the boat. We chatted with her for a while and made plans to meet up with Mark on Sunday after we returned from mass to share cruising destinations with each other.

We then went down to check out the real big boats, including the “Marie” whom we had seen in Halifax, NS in 2019. We later learned that the owner (Mr. Butts) CEO and President of HEB grocery chain owns another boat as well, a sailing yacht (“Rebecca”) which was docked just outside of SW Harbor. He also owns a Bombardier Challenger 300 private jet. You can read all about him here.

Another boat observed was a large black and gray vessel that had initially docked at the end of our pier, but was now one pier over. This yacht (“Annie S. Pierce”) was originally a fishing boat, then sold to a foreign government for military use, and most recently purchased by a single owner. The boat has no furnishings on it and will spend the next 5 months in port getting it all outfitted for the new owners. There currently is a crew of 5 and they are still trying to hire more.

Both these boats are so very different from the other boats that are in the marina, which are mostly production boats by known or local boat manufactures. It is so fun to come here and see so many different types.

By now we were hungry and it was time to eat. Since we had not prepared anything for dinner, we went to the “Upper Deck”, a restaurant located at the top of the hill just outside of the marina. Since we could not get a seat in the dining room we sat at the bar for dinner and ended up talking with the bar tender. She barely had time to talk as they were short-handed. She told us how overwhelmed with the crowds the entire staff has been this year, and can’t get help. It was no longer fun to come to work and they all looked tired on this Saturday night. We left there and went back to the boat for the night.

Sunday (7/18) – Southwest Harbor, (MDI), Maine to Winter Harbor (Schoodic Peninsula), Maine

It had rained during the night and was forecasted to rain all day, so we had made arrangements to use the Dysart’s truck to go to 8:00 am mass. However, the truck was not at the office when we went to get it. Fortunately, we had planned for this possibility and decided to walk to the church, even though it was a mile away, along the same road Denise had run the day before. Mark grabbed the umbrella just in case it started to rain. We were no further than the top of the hill of the marina parking lot when Mark (“Ravello”) drove up and offered a ride to church. Since they are at SW Harbor for the whole season, they rented a car and he was kind enough to give us a lift. What a nice surprise!

We attended mass at St. Peter Catholic Church, one of 3 churches in the MDI area that offer a single mass at each site during the summer season, and the same visiting priest rotates between them; the other two are at Northeast (NE) Harbor and Winter Harbor on the Schoodic Peninsula. It’s a small community-oriented church and welcoming to the summer visitors as well. They were finally serving coffee again in this post-pandemic period and wanted everyone to stop by after mass. Having already had our breakfast, we passed on the coffee and since it was such it was a short distance, we started to walk back to the marina. Five minutes later it started to sprinkle and we were thankful for the umbrella, but it was tough going on the small shoulder of the road with no sidewalk. And then just like that, Mark (“Ravello”) appeared with his car to take us back to the marina. He surprised us with his kindness and then apologized for his timing; he didn’t expect the mass to be so expedient and hoped to catch us right as we got out. We were so grateful to him for this gesture and insisted he come by the boat; even though we were initially intending to leave for Winter Harbor right after mass.

Mark came by the boat and we spent about an hour going through charts, making suggestions to him about places in Maine, and he sharing places in Connecticut and Massachusetts. It was fun spending this time while also getting caught up on each other’s lives, including his brother Jim (Denise’s former classmate). They will be returning to the Chesapeake in the fall and spend the next few years boating there again. We said good-bye and hope to catch up with him & Jenay one more time before we leave Maine.

Here are some other pictures from SW Harbor and the area around the marina:

After Mark left we readied the boat and left for what should have been an hour (at most) cruise to Winter Harbor.

Our path took us out of SW Harbor passing the entrance to NE Harbor and Mount Desert Island to our North, and Sutton Island to our South. The rain held off, but it remained cloudy with a bit of fog as we slowly made our way east across Frenchmen’s Bay. Fortunately, the waves were nothing more than swells and they were not large at all. Our course took us just south of Egg Rock Lighthouse and through a narrow channel between Spectacle Island and Turtle Island. On an otherwise clear day this would have been beautiful cruising grounds. But with overcast sky, fog and mist in the air it was tedious, took us longer than planned, and the pictures didn’t turn out so great.

Captain Mark manuevering around the islands

We rounded Grindstone Point and headed towards Sand Cove, where the Winter Harbor Yacht Club (WHYC) is located and here the rain really started to come down. We made contact with WHYC to secure the location of the mooring ball we had been assigned for our two-night stay. At the same time a sailboat was also arriving and to our amazement, the young gal working at the club came out in the pouring rain and used the launch to show us both to our respective spots. We secured our boat to the mooring and told the launch driver we would check in on Monday morning. Given it was cold and rainy and would be so for the rest of the day, we had no plans to leave the warmth of our Island Office.

We spent the rest of the day reading our books and working to keep the boat dry. With all the rain we had today, a few minor leaks required some attention. There are a few small spots around the window track on the starboard side which we have band-aided in the past. However, they are getting worse and will eventually need a bigger fix, but not before we get home from this adventure. The other leak is coming from the mast area on the cabin top and we have fixed this one once before. But like all things on a boat, it requires constant diligence and attention to keep it all in order. In the meantime it is more of a nuisance and requires placement of towels and rags to absorb the water until the rain stops and it finally dries out.

Tomorrow we will go on an adventure into the Village in Winter Harbor, and then on to Schoodic Point.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Perry Creek, Southwest Harbor, Winter Harbor

Vinalhaven Islands!

Posted on July 16, 2021 | Comments Off

Tuesday (7/13) – Hurricane Island, Maine (near Vinalhaven Island)

We were hoping for clear skies today, but none were to be found, and the forecast was for rain in the afternoon. We left Potts Harbor and the Dolphin Marina just after 8:00 am hoping we would not also hit fog, which looked possible. Our travels today would take us into the Gulf of Maine, at least until we go around Cape Small, then we would be able to take channels that ran inside between the numerous rock islands that line the coast.

We exited Potts Harbor around Haskell Island, passing Little Mark Island to our right, and Bailey’s Island to our left. It was a fairly calm day and the biggest challenge was dodging the numerous lobster pots that were everywhere in our path. In no time at all we rounded Small Point, and passed to the north of Sequin Island. From there we had a direct shot through well-marked channels crossing the Sheepscot River and passing Squirrel Island to our left and the Hypocrites Islands (including Ram Island Lighthouse) to our right. All through this area the water was tame and we continued without encountering any rain or fog.

As we approached and rounded Pemaquid Point there was less protection from barrier islands and things were more bumpy, but very tolerable. The wind from the Gulf of Maine combined with the inflowing tide and river currents made for some short waves, but fortunately no whitecaps.

Our path was mostly a straight shot across the Muscongus Bay passing Easter Egg Rock Island. We wanted to pass by this small rock island as this is one of only 3 islands in Maine where Puffins come to nest and hatch. Eggs are laid in March and April, and by June and July they have hatched and the young birds are learning to fly. By Mid-August they are all gone to parts further north, but will return next spring. At one time these birds were nearly extinct here due to hunting, but with the efforts of certain Audubon groups, they once again have a thriving population. Today we got lucky and were able to spot a whole group of these very small birds from our boat. It took us a bunch of pictures to even get one to come out as the bumping wave action and distance from the rocks required careful navigation and challenged our basic photography skills.

Soon we were back cruising around other rock islands and had a smooth ride until we entered West Penobscot Bay. Then things got bumpy again in the deep shipping channel, but then really calm as we approached Vinalhaven Island. The large island mass truly was a shelter for the eastern side of the bay.

We entered the channel that took us to Hurricane Sound with White Island to our left. Turning south we then entered the area east of Hurricane Island, where we picked up a mooring in the harbor. Here there are several moorings that are available on a first-come, first-serve basis (FCFS). They are courtesy of the Hurricane Island Center for Science and Leadership (HICSL), located on the Island in what used to be an Outward Bound location. The HICSL ask for a fee ($25) to help maintain the moorings and the fee is collected by putting the money in the jar attached to the pennant on the mooring. It is based on the honor system, and we did our part to comply. We had traveled 58 miles in 3 hours and we were ready for lunch.

We were anxious to get off the boat as it was getting tossed about a bit, due to wakes caused by passing lobster boats, the ferry to Vinalhaven Island, and a little bit of current. We launched the dinghy and went onto the island, signing the requisite guest book and reading the “rules” for guests. The HICSL is conducting studies on scallops (farm raised vs. wild) and were using middle-school students in a summer camp to teach and help with some of the research. “Nate” on staff with the center shared with us about the organization and what they are doing, including the building of a future research lab where the old Outward Bound building used to be. It had just been raised last week and groundbreaking of the new facility starts next week.

We took a trail map and headed to the south side of the island, passing tent and cabins for the HICSL. The rocky shoreline provided a great view onto the pristine blue green waters Gulf of Maine. Also in this part of the island there is a quarry. This island was originally mined for its granite, and the remaining fresh water quarry it created is now the source of water for the island. We walked up a bit (but not to the top) of the quarry before returning back to the welcome area. From there, we walked the trail north that follows the edge of Hurricane Sound and the mooring area. If we wanted to, we could have continued walking all the way around the island (2.5 miles in total) or on inland trails that would have taken us to an overlook of the Penobscot Bay. However, rain was coming and we didn’t want to get caught in it on slippery paths, so we headed back to the boat.

Hurricane Island Moorings – IO in top left

For the rest of the day we worked on the boat and prepared and published the last blog update. We were grateful that as the evening wore on, the boat traffic and wave action subsided, and things were much more settled (although not totally calm). We were happy we had leftover clam chowder from Erica’s Seafood as that was our dinner, and it seemed to hit the spot. We just didn’t feel like cooking, and the light rain was such a deterrent that we didn’t barbeque as planned.

Usually this part of Maine is great for seeing millions of stars in the sky at night. However, tonight’s cloud cover kept us from this, and when coupled with almost no light pollution, it was really dark when the sun set. Unable to keep our eyes on our reading, we both feel asleep very early.

Wednesday (7/14) – Perry Creek, Maine (near North Haven)

A southerly wind blew through the rocks at the end of the sound and all through the night the boat rocked and rolled. The water slapping the hull was very loud and because we went to bed early, Denise woke up at 1:30, unable to get back to sleep. At one point (probably as the incoming tide changed to ebb), she thought she was going to get seasick from the motion. Eventually, she fell back to sleep, but woke again at 4:30, and was ready for warm coffee. It was 57° and we needed heat. But she did not want to wake up the other boaters (or Mark) at such an early hour. Finally, at 6:00 am she turned on the generator, put on the heat and a strong pot of coffee.

Mark too was up a bit earlier than usual, and although we were going to leave at 9:00, after breakfast we headed out to go to Perry Creek, near North Haven – another one of the islands that are part of Vinalhaven. By 8:15 we were on our way and we didn’t have very far to go. Our trip to this anchorage/mooring area was less than 10 miles.

Heron Neck Lighthouse – from Hurricane Island

We headed north through Hurricane Sound, then made our way through the narrow but well-marked channel north of Leadbetter Island (called Leadbetter Narrows). It was here that we had a beautiful bald eagle fly right in front of our boat and up around behind us before landing on the rocky shore. We could not get the camera ready fast enough and missed the picture, but witnessed its mate join him. It was a spectacular site in a spectacular setting.

We then entered West Penobscot Bay and in one continuous right hand turned entered the Fox Islands Thoroughfare. From past cruises we knew the shoreline of this area to be lined with beautiful homes and lots of boats.

Browns Head Light – entrance to Fox Islands Thoroughfare

We cruised past the small village of North Haven, spotting another Back Cove 37 on one of the moorings in the harbor. We turned right into Seal Cove, rounding Hopkins Point and entered Perry Creek, a nice long and narrow creek that is lined with trees. There are mooring here filling the cove, making anchoring next to impossible, but 4 of the moorings are free (FCFS again) with a request to make a donation to the Vinalhaven Land Trust, owner of the lands surrounding the creek. We secured one of the free moorings and found the pristine location to be exactly what we needed. It was incredibly calm and peaceful, and the wildlife was amazing. The only drawback was low-to-nonexistent cell phone (or internet) service.

Rain was forecasted for later in the afternoon, so we launched the dinghy and took it back to the village of North Haven. But before going to shore, we stopped by the Back Cove we had seen when coming through the Thoroughfare. We met Jeff (“The Dawn Treader”) and spoke with him for a while. He and his wife recently bought their 2019 model and he is still getting used to it. They are from Virginia Beach, with property and a business here in North Haven, and will be taking their boat back to VA in the fall. We exchanged boat cards and other information, and then we headed towards shore.

Once on shore we walked through the only town gift shop, walked through an art gallery, and visited a very small market. In the process we learned the only real market on the island is more than 4 miles away and is more accessible via Pulpit Harbor. Although we knew of this, we were hoping to pick up some milk and ice at something that might be closer to a 7-11, but alas no such establishment exists here.

Watermans Community Center – North Haven

We then went to Browns Boatyard to see about maybe getting some ice, but they too did not have any. It was here that a young boy explained his great, great, grandfather established the business in 1898, and it has been in the family ever since. He showed us the “Wall of Shame”; a place on the outside of their boathouse of lobsterman’s tags with their license numbers. These tags are on all the pots that allow for the return of lost lobster pots to their rightful owners. Their boathouse reminded us of Kenny Eaton’s (Eaton’s Boatyard) in Castine, and in fact they had one of Kenny’s tags on the Wall of Shame.

Once we had seen all there was to see in North Haven, we got back into the dinghy and headed back to the boat. The return trip was heading into the wind, and the waves were short and frequent. It only took about 5 minutes, but it was a bit bumpy, until we turned into Perry Creek. Then it was peaceful and calm again.

During our trip this morning, Mark noticed the dinghy had water in the bottom, despite his bailing the remnants of recent rain water. It appears the seam where the inflatable is attached to the aluminum bottom is once again coming apart. We had this issue in 2018 in (we think) the same spot, so now we need to have that looked at before we take the dinghy on any long journeys. So after lunch, and with limited cell phone service, Mark managed to make some calls to inquire where we might get this fixed.

Today we also made a decision to leave Vinalhaven a day earlier than planned to get closer to the Mount Desert Island area. We already have reservations at Southwest Harbor, but have moved that up a day so we can beat the incoming weather front (strong wind).

While writing today’s blog, we were entertained by a set of beautiful birds, who perched on the bow of the boat to do their preening. It was fun to watch until they pooped all over the deck. Captain Mark was not too happy about that. We also got see a seal swim around one of the empty mooring balls near us, and we watched the tide rise (some 10’) covering the ledges along the shoreline. And the fog, of course the fog appeared midafternoon and we were grateful we were not out in it.

Over the last two days we have been challenged with very low cell phone coverage and no internet, even with a hotspot. However, the remoteness and beauty of the area is good for the soul and that is what it should be all about. We have seen an amazing amount of spectacular wildlife including: puffins, bald eagles, small dolphins (porpoises), numerous unique bird types, and seals. What a wonderful world!

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Hurricane Island, North Haven, Perry Creek, VInalhaven Islands

Dolphin now Discovered!

Posted on July 13, 2021 | Comments Off

Sunday (7/11) – Potts Harbor, Maine (near Harpswell)

The alarm rang early for Captain Mark, but Denise had been up earlier watching “End Game” first, then “Travail” pull away from the dock and head out of Constitution Marina. Soon we followed them heading north, but we first stopped at Harbor Fuels in Boston harbor to top off our fuel tank. Heading into remote parts of Maine, we didn’t want to run short of fuel in case it became harder to find and was a bit more expensive.

We left Harbor Fuels and headed out into Boston harbor. It was a quiet morning and it was very calm in the harbor.

We were hoping that the prediction for calm seas would hold until we got to the Portland area, nearly 100 miles away. We were not 100% sure where we would end up, but we had options in mind, including: downtown Portland, Portland Yacht Club, or all the way to the Dolphin Marina near Harpswell. We have stayed in all these places and they are not far from each other. But we didn’t’ want to make any final decisions until we were closer to Portland, less we encounter rough water and change our landing for the day.

We left Boston harbor and entered the Massachusetts Bay to very calm waters, and a hazy day. We had plotted a straight course first to just off of Cape Ann, outside of Gloucester and headed that way. This had us running close to the coastline and there were several boats out on the water, and many lobster pots along the way. In what seemed like no time we were passing Marblehead and the islands that make up this area. Just outside of Gloucester we caught up to and passed “Travail” and shortly thereafter “End Game”.

And then we came to Cape Ann, with its twin lights and rocky shoreline. Here was where we would expect the worst of the seas, but we were pleasantly surprised that it was calm. However, we did start to encounter many more lobster pots in this area.

We rounded Cape Ann and then plotted a course for a direct shot to Portland. Due to the curvature of the coastline, this meant for a time we were offshore about 15 – 20 miles and could not see land. We missed the beautiful but short coastline of New Hampshire and along the way the Nubble Lighthouse. However, we also encountered fewer lobster pots. Every now and then we would have a big ocean swell come our way, but for most of the way it was pretty calm and we only saw a few fishing boats.

As we got nearer to Portland we began to see the coastline and many more boats on the water. And just before we saw the twin lighthouses at Cape Elizabeth (and the entrance to Portland Channel), we saw a whale. It was so cool!

Once our excitement of seeing the whale died down and we knew we could make it to Potts Harbor, near Harpswell, we made a reservation at Dolphin Marina. We have stayed here several times and love the service and the food at the restaurant. But the best part is the blueberry muffins they bring to your boat in the morning, and serve with each entrée in the restaurant.

We made our way through Broad Sound Channel, passing Eagle Island to our right. Eagle Island is where Admiral Robert E. Peary lived after being the first man to discover the North Pole. You can read about his story here and about this park here.

We pulled into our assigned slip and assisted by the dockhands tied up safely. The place was hoping with lots of weekend boaters who come to eat at the restaurant, or at Erica’s, Seafood on the property. We have never been here when it has been so busy and now realize this place has been “discovered”.

We had made our 100 mile voyage in just over 5 hours and arrived in time for lunch. So once the boat was settled we ate on board, all the while watching the crazy boat drivers come into the marina for fuel, food and fun. It was the last day of a holiday week that officially is the start of summer here, and everyone was in a post-Covid celebratory mood.

In the afternoon we noticed “Puffin”, a blue hulled Nordic Tug coming into the moorings, not far from our slip. We met Peter in New Bern, NC in April, and he had helped Mark by taking him to the airport to get a rental car, and with a pump out when Denise had to fly home. We made contact with him and his wife Kathy, and invited them for drinks on our boat, then we could go for an early dinner at the restaurant. They took a launch into the docks and came over for a short chat before we walked up the hill to eat at the restaurant. Because they were concerned with being done in time to make the last launch (7:00 pm) we took a “first available” option for dining. They sat us at an outside table on the point, and the wind was not bad. But by the time the entrees were served the wind picked up and the temperature dropped. We were freezing and hurried to finish our delicious meal in order to get out of the cold. In our rush we forgot to take pictures.

During our time together, we learned more about Peter and Kathy. Although New Bern, NC is where they keep their boat, they originally are from the Gloucester area. Peter had many occupations, including as a Sword fisherman. They have boated all over Maine and shared with us places to go, many we have been to and a few more we did not know about. We had a wonderful time together and look forward to our paths crossing again.

Monday (7/12) – Potts Harbor, Maine (near Harpswell)

Early in the morning it started to rain so we both slept in. Finally around 7:00 am Denise got up and because the rain had stopped, she went for a run. Taking the only road on the peninsula where Dolphin Marina is located, she did an out-and-back run along Basin Cove, getting caught in a slight drizzle for the last mile. It was a bit hilly, but a good training run in the end. The view was beautiful even with overcast skies.

We spent a good bit of the morning planning out our itinerary over the next few weeks. Doing so we read (for the 4^th or 5^th time) parts of the cruising book we use (“A Cruising Guide to the Maine Coast” by Taft, et.al.), Active Captain (AC) and Waterway Guide (WG) reviews. Our process is this: we think of a place to go see (or are told by others), investigate the location, and then look to see if we can get into it. If its moorings or an anchorage we look for any size restrictions or concerns, and if it’s a marina then we look for availability. Other things we have to consider include where we can do laundry, and where we can go to church on Saturday evening or Sunday morning. This always takes more time than expected, but we now have a plan (allowing for bad weather and some delays), and enabling us to go to new destinations. By then it was lunch time and we still had work to do, and a blog to post. However, at least the sun came out, surprising us because it was forecasted to rain all day long.

In the afternoon we had work to do for our business, and Mark spent a large amount of time with Dell trying to get a new power cord adapter for Denise’s computer, as it has suddenly stopped working. A new one is on its way and hopefully we will be able to pick it up in Ellsworth when we are there on 7/24.

When we are on a public dock or popular marina, it is not uncommon for people to stop and look at our boat. Many people in Maine cannot believe we have taken the boat this far and we are constantly interrupted by questions about the boat, or about our trip(s). One such couple (Mac and Dolly) stopped to talk to us, and come to find out the couple is from Oviedo FL (wife was raised in Winter Park) and now they have a summer house in Port Clyde, Maine. They had taken their boat (a Legacy – Downeast design) over to Dolphin Marina for dinner and stopped when they saw the hailing port on the back of the boat. We talked for over an hour about the Oviedo area, Winter Park, and our mutual experiences in business (he was in banking). Before leaving he offered us their mooring ball if and when we go to Port Clyde. Since we have it on the list of places we want to go, we most likely will look him up when there.

Once they left we went back to our work until dinner. Denise had a late conference call, so Mark went up to Erica’s Seafood and got us lobster rolls and clam chowder (that is “lobsta” rolls and clam “chowda” – in Maine dialect); our first of the season. It was delicious and although it was overpriced (they used to be cheaper here) we loved it anyway. It was the perfect way to end our stay in Harpswell.

Unfortunately, the sun did not stay out and it was too cloudy for a good sunset picture. But here are some others of the area:

We have loved coming to Dolphin Marina in the past, but now we can see others have too. This time we experienced bigger boats (yachts), higher prices, less availability of services, and even facilities that need some touch up. It is not what it was 4 years ago when we were first delighted by them. We hope this is a post-Covid issue and it will change back to the way it was.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Dolphin Marina, Eagle Island, Harpswell

Déjà vu Boston!

Posted on July 12, 2021 | Comments Off

Thursday (7/8) – Boston, MA

We had a weather window today to get up to Boston before the winds picked up, and trying to take advantage of the current through the Cape Cod Canal. We left around 7:30 am and headed out onto Buzzards Bay. It was a little windy compared to yesterday, and Denise was very nervous about the conditions we would face once on the other side of the canal. The seas were forecasted at 1’ – 3’ and a northeast wind. Every other time we have come through this way we have had near perfect weather and her anxiety for this passage was high. Although our cruise north should only take about 2.5 to 3 hours, it can seem like an eternity when conditions bring on seasickness, or rough seas.

As expected, cruising the Cape Cod Canal was uneventful, even with the swirls of swift currents wanting to take our boat in different directions. But with many pictures already of this area, Denise was light on the camera and only took a few shots of some uniquely spotted items along the way.

We exited the Canal and headed out onto the Cape Cod Bay on a course that would take us near the channel entrance to Plymouth, one of several bail-out locations we had identified should things get too rough. It was quite bumpy and uncomfortable, but not so rough we couldn’t handle it. There were periodic swells that came from the northeast, and about every 6^th or 7^th would be a 2-4 footer. But the seas were a bit confused from the shifting wind direction of the prior days and in between the swells there would be a bump or two. As we rounded the point around Plymouth Channel and the Plymouth Bay, things stayed about the same and we felt that if it didn’t get any worse we would press on with Situate as our next potential stopping point. One thing we had going for us was that there was little true wind, so there were no whitecaps or tops of waves rolling into us. Had this been the case it would have been miserable.

We entered the Massachusetts Bay and our course shifted slightly more northwest, making it slightly more comfortable. It also helped that what little wind we did have up until now had calmed down even more. By the time we reached Situate we only had 10 more miles to go before turning into the south channel for Boston Harbor, and we knew we could make it all the way into Constitution Marina on the Charles River. But it was still too rough to try and take any kind of decent pictures.

As we entered the south channel, the small barrier islands created a swirl of currents and chop and we were back to bumpy waters. But they were short-lived and before long we were in the main shipping channel into Boston Harbor. Captain Mark negotiated us around an anchored ship and dodged several sailing schools who were taking advantage of the wind to teach their students. And of course under the landing planes at Logan Airport.

Most unnerving during this time we also heard on the VHF a call to the USCG for a pleasure craft taking on water, who was located just south of where we had just passed by. The USCG launched two vessels to assist, along with a TowBoatUS vessel. As we entered downtown Boston area, the solo-captain radioed that he was able to get his bilge pumps to keep up with the inflow of water and eventually got a tow into Boston Harbor. Our hearts went out that boat owner and we kept thinking how lucky we are that there are two of us to work together should something like this ever happen to us. And then we arrived at Constitution Marina.

Our slip assignment was on one of the inner side-tie slips by the pool and marina office, requiring a tight right, then another right, then a left turn to get to it. Captain Mark did an awesome job of navigating the tight turns and docking our Island Office without touching the boats in front and behind us. Denise worked to secure the boat with the help of the dockmaster (Sebastien) who remembered us and welcomed us back. And then as she turned to see the boat behind ours (stern to stern), and read the name she couldn’t believe it. The boat “Travail” was there, as it had been behind us in 2017 when we first came to this marina. You can read about that story from our blog here. The owner Bob was not on the boat, but was expected back to take it home to NH in a few days. We were excited that we might be able to see him again after all this time.

Once the boat was settled, we ate lunch and mapped out our plan for the stay. We had work to do, a blog to update and plans to make. But more importantly, we had to check on the weather. The forecast called for rain to begin in the evening and Tropical Storm Elsa to hit the area on Friday. This meant we would be here for 2 nights at least. We spent the afternoon doing work for clients, and began planning our next destinations once we leave. We had already decided we would not be stopping in Gloucester, even though we received a partial refund from on our cancellation.

Meanwhile, the threatening rain had not yet showed up and we decided to walk to the North End for dinner. We were going to go to Regina’s Pizza, but a local suggested we got to Ernesto’s instead and we agreed to try something new. Denise was disappointed that the usual walk over the locks for the Charles River was closed to pedestrian traffic, so no “playing” of the “Charlestown Bells” along the route. Instead we were forced back up on the North Washington Street Bridge, which was undergoing a major construction and rebuilding project. Once at Ernesto’s we discovered a small pizzeria with limited seating, but award plaques on the wall with great reviews. We thought the pizza was good, but the atmosphere at Regina’s is so much better and decided we prefer the pizza there too.

On the way back to the boat, we had to walk past Bova’s the bakery that is open 24 hours a day. Naturally, we had to stop and get a box of various Italian cookies; our favorite thing they sell. And as we made our way back across the North Washington Street Bridge it started to lightly sprinkle, but didn’t last long.

That night we began watching the second season of “Lupin” on Netflix; a great robbery crime-drama that has English dubbed over French, but is very well done. We were so happy to finally have a good Wi-Fi system and that we could again stream a show in the evening without burning up our hotspot hours.

Friday (7/9) – Boston, MA

We woke up to the constant pitter-patter of rain and looked out on a gloomy looking day. It had started to rain during the night and continued throughout the morning, and the wind picked up, although neither were quite as strong as forecasted. Meanwhile, the area around Cape Cod was getting pummeled by Elsa and we were so glad we were no longer there. Again, we made the right call!

Off and on throughout the day it was so foggy you could barely see the buildings downtown across the Charles River, let alone the tops of the taller ones. We spent the entire day holed up on the boat, working and getting the last blog update done and pictures downloaded and cataloged. We also spoke to family and friends, many who were concerned for our well-being (thank you!). Additionally, the every-direction-changing wind pushed water into places that funneled into the boat. We knew there were leaks, we just have not been able to find out where they originate. So far all we can do is use towels and catch basins to collect the water. It is a rare occurrence, but irritating nonetheless.

In the afternoon, the rains finally stopped and we had a chance to connect with Bob (“Travail”) who arrived on his boat mid-morning during the rain. We chatted for a while and made plans to get together for drinks and dinner, which we did. Again we walked over to the North End, only this time we went to an Italian restaurant he knew of called “Limoncello”. It was located right near Paul Revere’s house and was delicious, and yes, Mark got his usual (chicken parmigiana) and during dinner, the sun finally came out.

Afterwards we went to “Caffe Vittoria” for a cappuccino (Denise) and spumoni (Bob), as per Bob’s tradition introduced to us in 2017. During the time together, we got caught up on each other’s lives and Bob suggested places in Maine, but most of them we had already been to, or are planning on going to this trip.

We ended the evening watching more of season 2 of the “Lupin” series and deciding that we would spend Saturday night in Boston as well. This would allow us to be able to attend church here on Saturday evening, and allow for us to go all the way to Portland or the surrounding area on Sunday morning as the weather looked to be favorable for that.

Saturday (7/10) – Boston, MA

This morning Denise was so happy! She was heading out for a run along her now-familiar route along the Charles River when she met up with another woman also heading out for a run. “Nancy” did not know the area and so Denise took her down the Charles River to MIT. During the run she learned they were on a sailboat in the marina and also heading to Maine. They talked about all things running and places to go in Maine and learned a little bit about each other. Denise was elated to finally have someone to run with!

After the run, showers and breakfast, we both got down to doing some boat chores. We had a chance to meet some of the other transients in nearby boats, including Lon and Pat (“End Game”) from Ponte Vedra, FL. They were on a Fleming 55, hull #200 and we discussed all things boating. They were planning to do the Down East Loop and because of Canada not reopening, they too are now headed directly to Maine. We hope to see them in the future.

In the afternoon we walked the quarter mile up to St. Mary’s Catholic Church for 4:00 pm mass. It is a beautiful church and the closeness to this church is another reason we love Constitution Marina. From there we walked another quarter mile to Whole Foods to pick up a few things for our trip. This is our last true provisioning before Maine and we wanted to make sure we had enough fruits and veggies for a week.

We returned to the boat and talked briefly to Bob (“Travail”) and Lon & Pat (“End Game”), as we all were heading out in the morning to our respective destinations. We then ate dinner on the boat and finished watching season 2 of “Lupin”. Then we went to be early as we planned for an early departure (6:30 am) so we could be at Harbor Fuels when they opened at 7:00 to top off our fuel tank. Off we will be to Maine, finally!

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Boston, Cape Cod Canal, North End

Old friend reunion in Onset!

Posted on July 10, 2021 | Comments Off

Monday (7/5) – Onset, MA

It was time to move on from Fairhaven, and we had a good weather day to do just that. We would have loved to stay longer as these people were so great to us, but Maine is our goal and it was time to say good bye. As we readied the boat to leave and eventually pull away, Pat, Anthony, Brian and Penny were there for hugs, handshakes and the wave goodbye. The people on “C” dock were also out and about and gave us a warm send off as well.

We exited the New Bedford Harbor and headed out past the hurricane wall to a nice day on Buzzards Bay. Our destination was the Village of Onset, near Cape Cod. Onset is on the mainland side and is the last harbor area before entering the Cape Cod Canal and transiting to the Cape Cod Bay. The purpose of stopping here was to connect with Douglas, one of Mark’s long-time friends from Miami and groomsman in our wedding. His still-living parents have a summer home in Onset and many of the family members were going to be there. When we found out he would be there as well, we knew we had to coordinate a stopover to see everyone.

The travel time to Onset was only 90 minutes and with it being a holiday, there were quite a few boats on the water. We easily entered the channel for the Onset Harbor and made our way to Point Independent Yacht Club (PIYC) where we had a reservation. We secured the boat, checked in with the dockmaster and attempted to make contact with Douglas. We were a day earlier than expected so we were not surprised that it wasn’t until later that day that we actually connected; he had spent the day on the beach that surrounds this pretty harbor.

During the afternoon, the winds really picked up and the boat, which was side-tied on the outer dock was really rocking. Just to get off the boat, we walked the docks of the yacht club, meeting several of the members who were incredibly inviting and friendly to us. We talked with them for a while and they gave us suggestions of places to go and things to see. On their suggestion, we walked into the Village of Onset and went to Glen Cove Inn & Restaurant for dinner. To get there we had to cross a small bridge over the East River that leads to Broad Cove. Then in the next block stood this beautiful inn and restaurant, where we had a terrific meal. We returned back to PIYC and ended the day with a terrific sunset.

Tuesday, (7/6) – Onset, MA

In the morning we were able to make contact with Douglas and he invited us to come over to the house. So we walked the few blocks from the yacht club to where it was located, just one lot from the Onset Beach. We visited with the family members there, including his mom & dad, cousin, two sons, nephews, etc. We also had a chance to meet Sissy, who has been with Douglas for the last 10 years, but whom we had never met. We sat around talking for a long while, getting caught up on each other’s lives and hearing about what is going on in Miami Shores, where the parents still live. It had been years since we had been able to see each other, despite several attempts when we were in the Miami area.

Sissy and Douglas wanted to see our boat, so we walked back to PIYC to give them the grand tour and snap a few pictures.

Sissy had afternoon plans with her son, daughter-in-law and grandchild, who were also visiting, but Douglas wanted to go to lunch with us. So the three of us walked into the Village of Onset for a late lunch at a place called Quahog Republic. Along the way Douglas would share stories of his adventures as a kid coming to this place, and how much fun it is to see his own sons (4 of them) participate in the same adventures. We had a great time laughing and talking, and the food was good too. But the company and a nice cold beer was the perfect recipe for a perfect day

After lunch we went back to the house for more visiting and meeting Sissy’s son, daughter-in-law and grand-daughter. We also learned more about this house that has been in the family since the 1950’s originally owned by Douglas’s grandfather, and now owned by his dad. Over the years, the house has been a summer gathering spot for Douglas, his siblings, and now his own kids and their cousins. It is filled with lots of traditions and history, and we learned about many of them as well as the surrounding area.

Later in the afternoon, Douglas was kind enough to let us use his car for a quick trip to the grocery store. Afterwards, Mark dropped Denise and the groceries at the boat, then he went back to the house for more visiting with Douglas and his family. He stayed longer than expected, but Denise relished the “alone” time and Mark had fun with his old friend from “the hood”. Mark returned before dinner, but since we had a late lunch we were not hungry and ended up with a light snack later in the evening instead.

We took some pictures around Onset and of the PIYC :

Throughout the day we had been watching the weather back home and the tracking of Hurricane/Tropical Storm Elsa. Our concern was for our home, which was not in the direct path, but we know from Hurricane Charley (2004) that things can change. We also were watching the forecasted path for the storm and wondering when we should leave for Gloucester, MA, our next stop and where we had already made reservations for a mooring ball in the harbor. We decided to wait until the morning weather forecast to make a final decision.

Wednesday (7/7) – Onset, MA

Based on input from the locals we met in the yacht club on Monday, Denise went for a nice, but hilly run in the Onset area. First she ran to and through a golf club community, and then through the Village of Onset and was able to capture a few sites in pictures.

In the morning, we looked at the weather and made the decision to wait one more day to leave. The weather looked good for Thursday, but we would leave early in the morning in order to catch the tide through the Cape Cod Canal. We also had chores to do, so we immediately set out to get these done, including changing the boat’s transmission oil (Mark) and doing 2 loads of laundry (Denise) at the yacht club. We also talked with family who now reported that Elsa had a nominal impact on Central Florida, but was headed for the Carolina’s and up the eastern seaboard over the weekend.

After lunch Mark had several conference calls, and Denise went to the Village of Onset Post Office to mail a few things, arriving while they were still closed for the lunch hour. Not wanting to waste time, she went window shopping through some of the stores in the Village until they reopened. Once the errand was complete, she returned to the boat, passing by the town wharf that was now very crowded as the sunny day and now warmer temperatures brought many to Onset Beach.

In the afternoon, Douglas’ brother David came by with his wife Laura to see our boat. We had last seen David in 2004 when we visited Onset by car on our way to Cape Cod. We had a chance to talk for a while, but would not see them again as they were leaving in the morning to go back to their home in West Virginia.

Also during the afternoon a Tropical Storm Watch had been issued for the Cape Cod area and we did not like the weather forecast for Gloucester. The potential impact of Elsa had us concerned that we would be spinning on a mooring ball for 4 nights and through a tropical storm in a very large and open harbor. We evaluated the option of staying in Onset, but we would be exposed here a bit too. Then Denise suggested we consider going into Boston instead; we knew we would be protected at the Constitution Marina where we have stayed several times. Mark called and confirmed they did had space and would be able to accommodate us. He also called Gloucester harbormaster to cancel our mooring reservation, and was directed to cancel the reservation through DOCKWA, where we had made the original reservation. We feared we would not get a refund, but agreed to deal with that later. We now had a protected area that we could ride out the storm safely. We would still leave early in the morning and head now to Boston instead of Gloucester (10 miles shorter in distance).

Meanwhile, during the day we made plans to go to dinner with Douglas and Sissy. In the evening we walked over to the house, and had pre-dinner drinks and more conversation with all the family. Then Douglas drove us on to Cape Cod and the town of Catumet to eat at The Chart Room. This is a very popular place and it was packed when we arrived, even on a weeknight. We knew in advance it would be a long wait for dinner and we were ok with that as this was a great opportunity to spend more time together before we leave in the morning. The restaurant overlooks a marina, so we walked around the grounds, and took some pictures before our table was ready. We had a terrific meal and a great time, staying later than we normally would. Afterwards Douglas and Sissy dropped us at the yacht club and we said good-bye, promising to connect again soon. We now have our eyes set on a Miami Boat Show weekend as a possible get together in February 2022, and David may even come down too.

It had been a great few days with these fine people and we look forward to another opportunity to get together again. PIYC is a terrific club and we really enjoyed the beauty and hospitality of the place. We just may have to stop here again on our way home.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Buzzards Bay, Cape Cod, Cape Cod Canal, Onset

Independence Day in Fairhaven!

Posted on July 8, 2021 | Comments Off

Fairhaven, MA – Saturday, 7/3 and Sunday 7/4

Denise went for a nice run on Saturday morning, getting back just before the rain started again. It was rainy all day and as a result the city cancelled the planned fireworks over the harbor, rescheduling them to Monday, July 5^th. Also the ARSBC made the decision to postpone their “Illuminations” event; this is where all the boats decorate for the Independence Day celebrations and give out awards. We heard they were quite spectacular, but unfortunately, we were now going to miss it all. With the notice of these cancellations, many of the boaters left on Friday night and we found it very quiet around the club on Saturday.

We hunkered down on the boat and got caught up emails, paperwork, and calls to family and friends. We even got some reading done and streamed a movie. Even the Canada geese disappeared and were nowhere to be found. Our only real excitement was watching Brian tow a new-to-him boat owner off the shoals at Crow Island….he obviously didn’t know that channel ran to his left near the fishing boats (and to keep the green buoys on his right). He is now a BoatUS gold member.

On Sunday morning, we once again walked to St Joseph’s Catholic Church for mass. On the way back to the boat we were treated to some type of a short “old car” rally and parade to celebrate Independence Day.

With now clearer weather, after lunch we took the dinghy for a spin to see how the engine would work. At first we had a few issues, but eventually Mark got it all worked out and we went on an adventure.

First we checked out the boats at the Seaport Inn and Marina, located next door. We learned earlier in the day that Denise’s brother-in-law (JRII) has a cousin who keeps his boat there. We found the boat (“Man Town by the Sea”) but alas, his cousin was not around. We then went over to the docks near Blue Harvest and checked out their fishing boats, including a few that were from Seaford, VA (where Denise’s brother lives). We also cruised around Crow Island and got a close-up view of the statues and other buildings on this private island.

In the evening, despite the cooler weather, the great people on D-dock were gathering and invited us to join them. We had a wonderful time socializing with all of them. Anthony (“Wilco”) and his wife had decorated their boat and were anxious to talk with us about doing the Loop; they definitely want to do it. They are also planning on coming down to FL this winter, and then jumping off to the Bahamas. We can’t wait to see them again in our great state so we can return the hospitality.

With all the bad weather now gone, we got treated to an awesome sunset and beautiful cloud formations to the east.

When it finally got too cold for us, we headed back to the boat and were discovered many of the neighboring communities were having their fireworks tonight, and we were treated to a 360 view of them all. It was a great way to end our time in Fairhaven.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Fog to Friends in Fairhaven!

Posted on July 3, 2021 | Comments Off

Fairhaven, MA – Saturday, 6/26

Timing is everything and today we were going to thread the needle between a foggy morning and a windy afternoon on Buzzards Bay. If we left too early we would have fog most of the way, and if we left too late we would have a rough time on Buzzards Bay. We chose fog and left our anchorage at Block Island just before 9:00, on a journey that would normally take 2.5 hours.

We watched several sail boats leave and heard their Sécurité calls over the VHF as they departed the breakwater, and then they disappeared into the white abyss. So we had no illusions about what we were going to face, and we were grateful for our experience of navigating in Maine fog; at least here there were not lobster pots all over the place to also dodge.

We spun up the radar, and left the breakwater relying on our AIS (automatic identification system) for others to see us, and our chart plotter to see others that have it. And of course we put our good senses to the test, always looking around and listening for other boats. Radar picks up all objects, but it is hard to discern if it is a boat, buoy or bird sometimes. Many more recreational boats are using AIS today, and all commercial boats use it. But the small boater and some fisherman do not use it and that makes them hard to spot until we are right on top of them. We did see two sailboats along the way, both of whom showed up on AIS and for that we were grateful as we didn’t physically see them until we came close to them as we passed.

We started out slowly, barely cruising at 10 kts. There was little wind so the water was more of a rolling swell that was coming from the east as we headed north. But the slow rolling of the boat made it a bit uncomfortable and after the first hour Captain Mark suggested we speed up a bit, which we did. Denise was happy as it made for a smoother ride, even though we had to be all the more alert.

By the time we left Block Island Sound and entered the Rhode Island Sound we were doing 18 kts and had brief periods where the fog would give greater visibility, but not enough to relax. Finally, we entered Buzzards Bay with the Elizabeth Islands to our right, and followed the western-most channel around Smith Neck to our port. Soon we passed Ft. Rodman at Clark’s point and the fog was getting lighter; we could finally see enough to shut off radar. We entered the Fort Phoenix Reach and followed the buoys marking the channel through the Hurricane Barrier.

Fairhaven homes overlooking New Bedford Harbor

This is the 3^rd time we have visited this area: first in 2017 only to get fuel at Sea Fuels, and in 2019 on our way home for an overnight stay at Popes Island Marina after being in Boston. This time we had reservations at the Acushnet River Safe Boating Club (ARSBC); our destination for the next week. However, we first needed to get fuel and pulled into Sea Fuels to fill up our tanks.

After fueling, we crossed the New Bedford Harbor passing the Popes Island Marina and turned onto the Acushnet River and immediately in front of us was the ARSBC. Previous to our arrival we received communication assigning us to a side-tie on D dock, but there were no markings to identify which dock was D dock, and there is no one who monitors the VHF of this private club. We pulled alongside what we thought was D dock, but later learned that we had tied to C dock. There was another boat on what we discovered was D dock, and they were supposed to have been gone. But we were told we were ok to stay where we were for now, but will have to move the boat sometime before the Fourth of July festivities began next weekend.

We settled the boat and were so happy to finally be out of the fog and back on “mainland” territory. It took us 3.5 hours in tedious conditions, but we were now safe and happy to be tied to a dock. We were greeted by one of the boat club members and given a tour of the facilities, a key to the clubhouse, internet password and other information. We were very tired and chose to relax the rest of the day. Mark did put some water on the boat and did a light hosing off of the salt. But we were spent and didn’t want to do too much.

As forecasted the winds from the south picked up in the afternoon and created a chop in the harbor. The waves slapping against the hull were quite loud, and the boat rolled a bit. We were very happy we had left BI early and didn’t have to deal with the horrible conditions we knew were now out in the Sounds.

In the afternoon we met a few locals and based on input from them, we chose Minerva’s for a take-out dinner. It is a pizzeria located about ¼ of a mile away, but are also known for their fish n chips which we decided to give a try. It was good, but a little too much breading for our tastes. However, their portions were enormous and once the breading was removed, there was fresh white flakey fish that was delicious and we were happy.

There were many things we were grateful for today, of most importance was safe passage. Another was that we never encountered any big ships that normally make their way through Block Island and Road Island Sounds. Another was that the wind kept the seas at a comfortable 1’ with some 2’ swells that were tolerable. Lastly, that the trip to Fairhaven was only 50 miles not 150!

Fairhaven, MA – Sunday, 6/27 through Friday, 7/2

This was an uneventful week from a cruising standpoint as we have not moved the boat out of Fairhaven, and will not until 7/5 or 7/6. So here is a summary recap of our week:

On Sunday (6/27) we walked to mass and visited a new church; St. Joseph’s in Fairhaven.

We spent most of the day working on things around the boat, and getting to know some of the locals who spend all their weekends on their boats in the summer. The wind continued to blow quite a bit and created havoc for boaters who were returning from their weekend adventures. The trawler in the slip across the dock from us had difficulty with the wind as they were trying to back into their slip. They were returning from a trip and, got twisted sideways, and the back of their flybridge caught the bow and anchor of our boat. Mark was not on the boat at the time and Denise was, but was below and didn’t know they were coming in until they hit us. She immediately got out and helped them to get turned around and dock successfully. Fortunately, there was not even a scratch on our Island Office, but their boat now has a bend in the support pole on their flybridge. Afterwards they were relieved that our boat was not damaged and told us about their awful trip across Buzzards Bay as they were returning from Martha’s Vineyard. We knew we had made the right call yesterday.

One thing we have learned over the years of cruising is that out of the generosity of other boaters comes new friendships. On our first day we got to know Penny and Brian (“Penny Wise”) who were the most generous of all.

On Monday, (6/27) Brian was very helpful in taking Mark in his pickup truck to the service location (Rick’s Outboard) for the dinghy engine. He knows the people there and we felt confident they would do good work. Brian is one of the TowBoatUS drivers and we respect his opinion. Rick’s Outboard expected to have it back to us on Friday, as requested.

We were also offered the use of Penny’s car. The only stipulation was that we had to take her to work each morning for 7:00 am and pick her up at 4:00 each afternoon. So on Tuesday and Wednesday we did just that and used the car for several errands.

Our first errand was that we had to drive 20 miles north to Onset and Point Independence Yacht Club (where we are going after Fairhaven) to retrieve the motor for the shower sump pump; the package was waiting for us and we had a chance to see where we will be docking when we arrive.

Over the two days we were able to run several other errands including going to three different Walmart locations (no Chlorine tablets or oil), a grocery store, a laundromat to do some laundry, and tending to a few personal needs: Mark got a haircut and Denise a pedicure. We even found a Panera to grab lunch one day, and went to nearby Kyler’s Seafood for some fresh fish which we had on Wednesday night for dinner. Kyler’s is a local seafood processor and retailer in New Bedford and they get fresh fish, scallops, shrimp, mussels, etc. from the local fishing boats in the New Bedford-Fairhaven area. This harbor has the largest fishing fleet in the USA and they line the shores of both of these towns.

On Thursday (7/1) morning we knew we had to move the boat to “D” dock and made plans to do so early before the forecasted afternoon thunderstorms and wind kicked in. Meanwhile, we had learned that since this club is home to the Coast Guard Auxiliary, and is home port for the TowBoatUS boat, disabled boats are towed in here until they can be later moved for service, or get fixed. So, when we went to move the boat we discovered a new sailboat had been pulled in overnight. However, they were smaller than the previous boat and we could still fit on the front part of D dock.

During the move we also wanted to turn the boat so now the bow would face towards the marina and land, and the stern out towards the harbor. The main reason for doing this was that when the afternoon wind blew, the waves it kicked up would hit the stern of the boat and allow for quieter quarters and better sleep. The other reason was to prepare for the Independence Day festivities to take place; fireworks are scheduled for Saturday 7/3 in the harbor and sitting in our cockpit we will have ring-side seats.

Finally, the rain came today to break the 90° heat that has plagued the area. It has been so hot we have had the AC running as if we were in FL. Unfortunately, the rain did not stop throughout the day, night, and into Friday.

Approaching storm – never came on Wednesday, but did on Thursday

On Friday (7/2), the rain continued all day, but didn’t hamper our efforts to get a few things done. Mark was able to get our new D-dock friend Anthony (“Wilco”) to take him to retrieve the dinghy engine, now repaired. When they returned Brian and another boater (Pat) were on the dock and able to help Mark lift the engine and put it on the dinghy with ease. Denise was grateful that she didn’t have to help with this particular task.

Throughout the week we worked on all kinds of other things; replacing the shower sump pump motor, work for clients, e-mails, travel plans for 2 fall trips and our itinerary for Maine. We have also been intrigued by the activities in and around the harbor. Here are a few:

There are several ferry boats taking passengers from New Bedford to Cape Cod destinations and they move at a good clip. However, they are nowhere near as speedy as the ferries in NYC.

The ARSBC is right next door to the Fairhaven public boat ramp. This means we have had front row seats to watch the locals launch their boats to go fish, or just enjoy a day on the water. It has been amusing to say the least, but not nearly as those we watch on YouTube’s “79^th Street Ramp”. In fact, we have yet to see any real disasters occur.

We also watched the big fishing boats coming in and out of the harbor, specifically the fleet of boats that are part of “Blue Harvest Fisheries”; a large fishing, processor and distributor located right near the marina. They sell to the consumer (via grocery product) and wholesale to the restaurant and hospitality industries. They also have a fleet of boats in Newport News, VA. You can read more about the company here.

But the thing that has given us the most amusement is the flock of Canada geese that flutters between the boat ramp, the marina next door, and Crow Island – the private island in the middle of the harbor. The total number is close to 25, and sometimes they all travel together and sometimes they travel in 2 or 3 groups. We try to figure out why they move from one place to the next on what seems to be a whim. Then for no reason at all, they turn around and go back to where they came back from. It really is a hoot to watch.

In addition to Kyler’s and Minerva’s we enjoyed dining one night at Elizabeth’s, a restaurant that has terrific food, and is reasonably priced, especially for the freshness and quality. We even splurged that night and shared a piece of Orange Creamsicle Cheesecake that was delicious.

During the week Denise was able to get in a few runs and walks. For most of the week it was quite hot, reminding her of what it is like to run back in Winter Park. Along the way she shot some pictures of the area around Fairhaven, including many of the buildings that have such beautiful architectural features. One day she ran out towards the hurricane breakwater and Fort Phoenix and the dike that provides a flood barrier from Buzzards Bay. Another day she went out towards the western end of town near the High School and the Josh Slocum and John Cooke memorials. Here’s some pictures taken along the way.

LittleFree Library kills the wicked witch

John Cooke
Oldest survivor of Mayflower – Burial marker

The weather does not look too great for the Independence Day activities as it is forecasted to rain all weekend. Our next post will cover what ends up happening and what we end up doing. One thing is for sure…we will be staying put in Fairhaven for a few more days.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Block Island Sound, Buzzards Bay, Fairhaven

Block Island Bliss!

Posted on June 28, 2021 | Comments Off

Block Island, RI – Thursday, 6/24

Since we did not have a long way to go today, we were in no hurry to head out of Montauk. Our destination was Block Island, RI (aka BI), just 18 miles away, so Denise went for a run. First she ran the road to and down Star Island, passing the entrance to Gurney’s Star Island Resort, the Montauk Yacht Club, and the USCG Station Montauk entrance. She then ran down to the harbor, then back around a neighborhood not far from the boat. It was mostly flat and she enjoyed seeing all the sights from the land.

We left Snug Harbor Inn & Marina at 10:30, shoving off from this warm and friendly place. We enjoyed our time here and we are glad we made the decision to pay for the marina in order to experience this unique place.

We left the harbor with clear skies and a slight wind; it was a really pretty day to be on the water. As we exited we could see the RVs all parked on the beach at the County RV Beach Park, noting that we must share this with our RV-ing family members as a pretty cool place to spend a night or two.

We cruised northeast (mostly east) finally passing Montauk Point with a very visible radar antennae and then the lighthouse on the point.

Shortly after 11:00 we crossed the state line, entering Rhode Island and saying good bye to the state of New York; where we spent nearly a full month. Block Island Sound was lovely and we could see the Rhode Island mainland in the distance, and the windmills on the Atlantic Ocean side. As we got closer to BI, Denise also noticed other “sticks” that were on the BI Sound side and asked Mark what he thought it was. Soon we could clearly make out the masts of hundreds of sailboats. We were coming to BI at the end of “Race Week” and there were hundreds of sailboats who had just started the day’s race. It was very cool and made for some great pictures.

Captain Mark managed to negotiate around the different class races and got us to the channel and eventually through the inlet. We entered through the breakwater noticing the USCG Station Block Island to our right, along with an interesting driftwood sculpture. We entered “New Harbor” and the Great Salt Pond, locating the fairway between all the moorings so we could move to the anchorage area. We had already identified a spot based on inputs from others, just off Breezy Point and not far from “Dinghy Beach”.

We set our anchor between several other power boats, then ate lunch right away. We wanted to be able to see as much of the island as possible today, so we called for the town launch who immediately came out to take us into New Harbor. Once on land, we found Aldo’s for renting a moped (recommended to us by cruising friends). They took us on their shuttle to Old Harbor (less than 2 miles away) where we rented mopeds for a 2-hour increment. Off we went to tour wherever we could on this beautiful island.

First we went to see the South Lighthouse and the Mohegan Bluffs, stopping along the way to see some of the sights and click pictures.

Then we drove back through Old Harbor, took the road that paralleled the ocean, and eventually passed Dinghy Beach and Fred Benson Beach.

We continued all the way to the north end of Block Island where the Lighthouse, Settlers Rock, and the National Refuge were located. Here the beach is incredibly rocky and all vehicles are not allowed past a certain point. To walk out to the lighthouse was about a half-mile hike and Denise’s right foot was really hurting, so we did not tackle the rock-strewn shore. Plus, it was not open to go to the top, nor was the interpretive trail on Sachem Pond. So, we just looked around and took a bunch of pictures. It was such a beautiful day and so clear that we could actually see the shoreline of mainland Rhode Island.

We then needed to connect with Loopers Laurie & Kevin (“Laurie Jean II”). We had been in communication with this couple through our Looper network (AGLCA.org) as they are currently living (part-time) on BI and are unofficial “Harbor Hosts”. Since we have never been here, we thought it would be good to have local knowledge, and they are the ones who provided us with the suggestions of where to anchor and where to rent mopeds.

Now it was time for a face-to-face meet up. We took the scooter to meet Laurie (who works at the BI Rental Car place) and made plans for a meet up after she got off work. She suggested that in the meantime we take the moped for a quick pass out to the airport. We did just that and found a really quaint airport that has flights from Block Island to the mainland, as well as parts of Cape Cod.

We then drove all the way back to Old Harbor to return the moped as our time was coming to an end. We still had to walk back to meet up with Laurie & Kevin; more than a mile away. But we had we had plenty of time, so we did some souvenir shopping along the tourist traps of Old Harbor. (Yes, we got another magnet). We then headed back to New Harbor passing a typical B&B/Inn found along the island, the firehouse, and the New Shoreham Police Dept.

Just up the road from there we stopped at a place that rents Kayaks and is home of the Block Island Maritime Institute; a marine research facility. We spoke with one of the workers and he told us about some of the research they do on the fish in the area. We sat on their Adirondack chairs overlooking New Harbor for a bit of a respite, and then it was time to meet our new friends.

At 5:00 we made our way back to meet Laurie who needed a little more time. So we made plans for a rendezvous on the Adirondacks at the Narragansett Hotel, just up the street. The chairs overlook the entire New Harbor and is a favorite spot of theirs. We headed there first, and she and Kevin eventually caught up with us. For a good hour we shared a bottle of wine and great conversation getting to know one another, talking about our mutual Great Loop experiences.

We then went down the hill to Dead Eye Dicks for dinner. Because of race week, the place was packed and we were told it would be a 1 to 1.5 hour wait for a table. We optioned for seats at the bar where we were able to order our meals, and had a great time together. Come to find out we have many Looper friends in common and laughed about how could it be that we had not yet met before, especially since they are (now) from Punta Gorda, FL.

In the meantime the very nice weather turned very cool and the skies went from sunny and beautiful to overcast; rain was coming and we hoped to get back to boat before it hit. We said good-bye to Laurie & Kevin and thanked them for their great hospitality. We hope to connect with them again in the winter when they are back in FL, and if we head to the FL West Coast on another Island Office adventure.

We quickly walked back to the launch, arriving just as it started to drizzle, and by the time we got back on the boat, it was raining. It did stop for a while and we were able to capture a nice sunset, but it continued to rain off and on throughout the night.

Block Island, RI – Friday, 6/25

When Denise woke up it was cold in the boat and she didn’t want to get up. Finally, she forced herself out of the warm covers and turned on the generator to get the heat going; Mark slept in. Fixing coffee she observed that she could barely see the other boats in the Great Salt Pond; we were fogged in big time! The area around BI Sound is known for its vicious weather and fog, but usually the Great Salt Pond is an area of clarity when everywhere else deals with the fog.

We spent the morning working on cataloging pictures over the last 4 days; there were well over 400 of them so this took a long time, and we did not finish before lunch. In the meantime the fog lifted a bit, but not sufficiently or in time for the last day of sailboat racing; all races were cancelled. So when we called for the launch to take us in to shore, we had to wait almost 20 minutes as all the sailors were packing it in and trying to get to the ferry or to their stay at local establishments. The single launch was very busy and the second launch doesn’t start running until the weekend.

Finally, the launch came and took us back to the New Harbor waterfront. We walked up the hill to The Oars Restaurant, where Mark had wanted to come since reading about the place. Now, we know why everyone recommends it: it is a very fun place, with lots of outdoor picnic tables, corn row and other games on the lawn and a killer view overlooking the harbor. Inside, the fun continues with thousands of oars that hang from the ceiling and on the walls (and thus their name). There are plain ones and colorful ones, and they come from all over the world. There are so many all over the place that it makes the entire place a piece of art.

Due to the fog and drizzly weather we did not want to sit outside, and there was a wait for inside tables. But we secured a spot in the bar area, which proved to be lots of fun. We had a good lunch and enjoyed watching the sailors from the race teams. We spent some time talking with one of the race committee members who was from Chicago, and took in the atmosphere of the celebrations, clothing, and stories the sailors shared. This brought back lots of fun memories for Mark and his days of racing J-boats when we lived in Southern California.

After lunch and hanging out in the bar for a while, we took the launch back to the boat. Mark did some work on the dinghy based on input from Louie, the launch driver, and got it running again. He took it out for a test drive and all seemed to be working ok, however he has already been in contact with the Yamaha service for it to be looked at when we get back to the mainland. We need a reliable dinghy engine in Maine and need to ensure we can count on the one we have.

In the afternoon, we finished cataloging the pictures through Montauk and began writing the next blog update. We talked with family and friends who know they can call us no matter where we are (and in BI the cell coverage is pretty good). We watched more boats come in for the weekend, including a 3-way raft up that anchored right behind us. Although it didn’t rain, the moisture in the air was high and fog lingered around the edges of the harbor.

We had been on the fence about leaving; really wanting more time in this very cool place. Our schedule allowed for it, but the weather was not going to cooperate. We had a choice: we could leave in the morning, knowing we would most likely face a lot of fog, or stay. If we stayed we would be here more than 5 days as the wind was going to be strong and 4‘- 6‘ (average) seas were forecasted on BI Sound. Also if we stayed we would need to purchase water for the boat, or pay exorbitant dock fees at a marina.

This was a no-brainer decision. With radar and AIS, we would rather deal with fog then get beat up in 6’ seas. Also, with the dinghy engine questionable, and a quick fix on the shower sump pump, Mark thought it would be prudent to bypass Cape Cod (Martha’s Vineyard and Falmouth) and head directly into Fairhaven where we will have access to needed resources to fix both these items correctly. We went to bed with this decision in place and grateful for finally getting to enjoy a fun time at Block Island.

Here are some other pictures of Block Island:

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Block Island, Block Island Sound, Montauk

The End of Long Island!

Posted on June 27, 2021 | Comments Off

Sag Harbor, Long Island, NY – Tuesday, 6/22

Our day started with Denise going for a run in Greenport. Leaving the marina she headed down the streets she had walked the previous day, but this time she continued further west to the main highway (NY25) and ran briefly down it past the Lin Beach House and on to Kontokosta Winery, where we visited in 2017 when Claire was aboard.

Afterwards she ran back through town and up and down streets along the waterfront. Here she discovered new condos that had since been built, where once there stood a few older homes, as well as some other interesting sites:

Although we didn’t have far to go (less than 10 miles to an anchorage in Sag Harbor) we wanted to arrive early so we could see some of the village, and also before the forecasted thunderstorms arrived. So, just after 8:30 we left Mitchell Park Marina and headed out of the harbor, passing the ferry terminal and Shelter Island on our port side.

We entered the Shelter Island Sound and to our right we passed the town of Southold and the Great Hog Neck. Soon we made our way through Noyack Bay, around the North Haven Peninsula and into Shag Harbor with its beautiful boats and mega yachts in port; the Ft. Lauderdale of New York. This is the Hamptons, and the playground of the uber-rich.

Home on North Haven – overlooking Sag Harbor

We anchored Island Office in the Sag Harbor Cove, where there were only three other boats; one of which left shortly after we arrived. We then launched the dinghy and took into the Village of Sag harbor. First we walked around docks to look at all the yachts, then we walked around the downtown and found a shop to buy the requisite magnet (have you see our magnet board at home?). We walked up and down the main streets of the Village, seeing unique shops, restaurants and coffee houses. There is no Kilwin’s or Ben & Jerry’s here.

Yachts in Sag Harbor – see the car on top the yacht on the left

Historical marker in Village of Sag Harbor

Soon it was lunch time and we found a small lunch spot recommended by “Debbie” in the shop where we bought the magnet. She had recommended one of their sandwiches on focaccia bread, which we did order. As this is mostly a pizza joint for pickup and delivery, there was no place to sit down, but there were chairs in front of the ice cream place next door. So we sat outside enjoying a delicious lunch that was so filling we each took ½ of the sandwich home for another meal.

While eating, we enjoyed watching a police officer coordinating the pedestrians in the cross walk, with the continuous stream of cars coming through the traffic circle. We can only imagine how crazy this place must be in the middle of the summer with cars and crowds.

We could see the storms were coming in and wanted to make it back to the boat before they hit. We headed back to the town dinghy dock and got into “Cubicle” (nickname for our dinghy) and motored our way back to the boat.

Once we got back to the anchorage we saw another Back Cove (“Family Ties”) was now also there, but the first power boat had left. We barely made it back in the boat before the rains came. It poured and there was lots of thunder, but we were well protected in this beautiful cove.

During the rest of the afternoon we did office work, emails and talked with family, all-the-while marveling at the beautiful homes and boats that were within site. The best part was our accommodations were free!

Mark also noticed an issue with our shower sump pump; it wasn’t working and the shower was now draining to the bilge. He spent some time working on a temporary fix, and ordered (via Amazon) a replacement motor to be sent to a future destination (Point Independence Yacht Club) after the July 4^th weekend.

Not wanting to cook and still relishing our tasty lunch, we decided to eat the leftover half sandwiches for dinner. They were just as good as they were at lunch, and we were happy to relive this party in our mouths.

We found Sag Harbor to be a warm and friendly community. While there is some snob appeal in some of its visitors, all the locals we met were incredibly nice and we were very glad we came to see this beautiful place.

Montauk, Long Island, NY – Wednesday, 6/23

It was the perfect morning to just sit around and enjoy the beauty of the area. The sky was clear and the air was crisp, but not cold. We hung out for a while taking it all in, then at 9:30 we left to head to “the end” of Long Island, Montauk.

We exited our anchorage at Sag Harbor Cove, went under the Ferry Road Bridge, passed the mega yachts and sailboats in the marina and moorings, and said good bye to Sag Harbor.

We entered Sag Harbor Bay, passing Shelter Island to our port, and eventually Cedar Point and its lighthouse to our starboard. Here we re-entered Gardiners Bay only this time on the eastern side, almost completing a full circle around Shelter Island in the last few days. We hugged the eastern coast passing a few large sailboats, one at anchor and the other underway. They were similar vessels and we wondered if the one was waiting on the other for a meet-up.

The channel turned to the east and we rounded Gardiners Island before heading back north-northeast. Around 10:30 we officially entered Block Island (BI) Sound and cruised along the coast of the north fork of Long Island until we came to the breakwater into Montauk Lake. This was originally a freshwater lake, but in 1927 a developer blasted a gap in the shoreline to provide access to Bl Sound and the Atlantic Ocean. Today, it is a salt water harbor and home to one of the largest fishing fleets on the east coast. The harbor and lake are actually a few miles north of the Village of Montauk, located on the Atlantic Ocean side of Long Island.

We approached the breakwater as a USCG boat was maneuvering in and out; we think it was on a training exercise or testing out something. As soon as we entered the breakwater, it returned in behind us. The USCG Station Montauk was immediately in front of us on Star Island as we entered the channel.

We took to the eastern side of Star Island and Mark found an anchoring spot that was between the mooring field and the shallows of the lake. We settled the boat at anchor and then Mark called a few places to see where we could land our dinghy. There is no town dock as they don’t really cater to the cruiser (at anchor or moorings). They prefer those who come in to stay at marinas, yacht clubs or resorts with docks, or private moorings. Therefore, there is also not a launch service. Finally, he was able to secure a spot for a dinghy at one of the marinas that would let us tie up for a few hours for free. We just wanted to grab some lunch and walk around the small harbor area a bit. We launched the dinghy, got in and untied from the boat. As we pulled away from boat, the engine stalled. We got it restarted, but when we tried to put it into gear it stalled again. After several attempts and now drifting with the current, we were forced to immediately break out the oars and row back to boat. Mark worked on it a bit and thought he had it fixed, even taking it on a test drive. So Denise got back into the dinghy and we started out again, but it again failed. Fortunately, this time we were still tied on to boat.

Now we had a dilemma; to come this far and not see Montauk would be a huge disappointment. We decided to eat lunch on the boat and consider our options. After several considerations, we decided to bite the bullet and pay for a marina. We called Snug Harbor Inn & Marina (a place recommended to us by a cruiser on a boat in Greenport). They could take us for a one-night only stay, so we booked the slip. And we are so glad we did.

We pulled up the anchor and moved the boat back through the harbor to the other side of Star Island and went down the channel as far as we could until we came to the Inn and Marina where we docked the boat on a side tie.

We checked in with office and got lots of suggestions for places to eat, things to see and transportation options.

We decided to walk the (less than) mile to the village area around the harbor. Along the way we saw several restaurants and all the sport fishing and whale watching charter businesses, as well as the working docks for Gosman’s, a big fish processor.

Next door were the businesses that overlooked the inlet, including a few touristy shops, a restaurant, and the Topside Bar, where we went for a drink. The Snug Harbor Hotel staff had suggested the place for its view, and today it was a spectacular day and worth the walk. Here we met Julie, our waitress who was originally from France, but now lives on a houseboat in our marina. She was very informative about the area, and even told us about the boat next to her in the marina (more on that later).

After a few pictures, a magnet purchase and a walk around the fishing docks, we left trying to figure out how we could get to “town”. It was too far to walk and there were no bikes to rent. We had also been considering going out to the Montauk Lighthouse, but it was closed until July 3^rd, and the museum was only open until 4 pm, so we ruled it out as a place to spend our limited amount of time. As we were contemplating walking back to the boat, then getting an Uber from there to go into the Village of Montauk, we noticed a city bus at idle. We talked with the driver and found out that the bus runs between the harbor, the Village and East Hampton on a circular route. Our timing was perfect and “Sal” the driver encouraged us to hop on; it would only be 10 minutes for us to get to “town”. But the best part was he gave us the senior discount and it cost us a whopping $1.50 in total for the ride.

Along the way, Sal filled us in on a lot of history around Montauk and about the people. He really liked to talk and Mark being a great listener got an earful. But it was fun and we learned a lot.

Once in the Village, we first walked a few blocks to the beach. We were fortunate to encounter a Marine Patrol Officer on the boardwalk who took our picture overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. We went back into the main street of town and did some souvenir shopping (Mark a t-shirt, Denise a throw blanket for the boat), and took a few pictures.

We were ready to head back to the boat and have a more affordable dinner in the harbor, and nearer our boat. We walked to the bus stop, arriving about 15 minutes before the scheduled departure. After 40 minutes the bus was still not there, despite one of the locals telling us that it is never more than 20 minutes late. So we called for an Uber who was there in less than 2 minutes and in 10 more minutes we were back at the boat. It was the best $20 we spent as Denise’s foot was hurting from all the walking, she was cold, and she wanted to change into some warmer clothes before dinner.

We then went to the restaurant at the marina next door as suggested by the Snug Harbor staff. We had a delicious meal of the freshest seafood (Denise got sushi and Mark got Fish n Chips) and we both loved our meal. The food was good, reasonably priced and glad we came back to the harbor area for dinner.

Now to the story about the boat next to (waitress) Julie’s boat: There is a book called “A Speck in the Sea” (that we have both read) that is based on a real story about a Montauk fisherman (John Aldridge). He fell off the back of his fishing boat in the middle of the night, 40 miles offshore when his childhood friend and first mate (Anthony Sosinski) was asleep. Miraculously he was rescued and lived to tell the tale. Apparently they have been working on getting this made into a movie. The boat next to Julie’s is Anthony Sosinski’s current home. You can read more about this story here.

And now about Snug Harbor Inn and Marina: this is a local’s marina, but the inn is an old-school motel that is a throwback to the 1960’s. Family-owned and operated, the place is very customer service focused, very clean, and well-maintained. It was a great spot for us and we were so glad we salvaged our stay here so we could experience life at “the end” of Long Island.

And with the close of the day, we spent our last night in New York.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Greenport, Sag Harbor

“The show” in Greenport!

Posted on June 23, 2021 | Comments Off

Greenport, Long Island, NY – Sunday, 6/20

We had gone to be early last night and with the earliest sunrise of the year, we both were wide awake well before we needed to be. After eating breakfast and looking at the planned trip for the day, Mark said “let’s go” and by 7:30 we were on our way. Our destination was 60+ miles north to Greenport; about a 3 hour cruise.

We left Huntington Yacht Club and made our way through the bay, sound and inlet, and back out onto LI Sound. At first we saw a few fishing boats, and passed by Eaton’s Neck where the Coast Guard Station and Lighthouse are very visible on the point.

Bu then for miles it seemed like we were the only boat on the entire LI sound. This is due to the fact that we were traversing the widest part of the sound; even though we could still see both coastlines in the distance, any boats that were out there were far off. The water was mostly calm until we got into the areas where there were counter currents, then it got a bit choppy. However, there was little wind so the waves were tolerable.

Then things got busy. First we passed by a research vessel, and immediately afterwards a freighter heading out to sea.

Not long afterwards, we came to an area known as Plum Gut, an area marked by Plum Gut lighthouse on our left, and Orient Point Lighthouse on the right.

This is a channel between Plum Island and Orient Point, the last inhabited point on the north fork of Long Island. This is the channel that boaters take if heading to Montauk, Sag Harbor or (like us) towards Greenport, and is known for its rough currents. We had the current, tide and low wind in our favor and it was still a little choppy, but mainly because of the numerous boats who were churning up the waters as we all negotiated with each other through the pass.

Once through the pass, we turned south into Gardiners Bay and cruised down the coast of Long Beach. We rounded the point at Long Beach Bar Lighthouse (aka “Bug Light”) to our right, and Shelter Island to our left. Here there are some beautiful homes that overlook the bay.

Shortly thereafter we pulled into Mitchell Park Marina in Greenport. It was just after 11:00 am and we found the marina only partially full, although boats were coming in behind us one right after the other. We settled the boat, checked in at the marina office and then went back to the boat to do a few chores, and to watch the show.

There is a saying in boating that goes like this: “you are either watching the show or you are the show”. Today we watched the show. As many boats of varying sizes came into the marina we watched them all trying to dock, most with lots of people on board who were clueless what to do. People who have no understanding of how wind and current affects their ability (or lack thereof) to maneuver their boats, makes for cheap entertainment and even some scary moments. At one point the boat pulling into the slip next to us almost hit our boat. Mark had suggested we put out extra fenders and it was a good thing we did. Needless to say we had several interruptions to our tasks in order to assist others or to protect our own boat.

Within an hour of our arrival, the marina was packed full of boats. It was Father’s Day, and it seemed that every dad from Connecticut was on his boat and came to Greenport for the afternoon; after all it is only 90 minutes away for many of these go-fast boats. The town was crowded and there were lots of people around the waterfront park and the streets of this cool village. All afternoon we watched several large yachts come into port and leave, only to be replaced by others. But, by 5:30 pm most of the boats had left and by 9:00 pm there were only a handful in the marina for an overnight stay.

When not watching the show, we spent our time doing boat chores. Now with full marina services (electricity and water) we took to cleaning our floating home. Mark washed the salt off the outside of the boat while Denise scrubbed and polished the galley, including all the stainless. By the time happy hour rolled around, we were deserving of those hard-earned drinks.

For dinner we were hungry for some red-meat and found “Andy’s” where we got French dipped sandwiches that reminded us of the ones back home in the old Park Plaza Gardens. They were filling and we both took leftovers back to the boat for another meal.

Downtown Greenport – outdoor dining due to covid

In the evening the town got really quiet as the day trippers were gone and the overnighters hunkered down. The only noise and movement came from the ferries at the terminal right next to the marina. These boats carry people and cars to and from Shelter Island, or on to the Hamptons on the south fork of Long Island. Many of the “working class” who support the businesses in these parts take this mode of transportation as it is less time consuming and cheaper in the long run than driving on the highways. By the time they stop at midnight, we were long asleep.

Greenport, Long Island, NY – Monday, 6/21

It had been a restful night sleeping, so when Denise woke up she was full of energy. She went for a long walk in the morning, in part to burn some calories and to also take pictures without a lot of people blocking the view. When she left there was a little fog out on the bay, but by the time she returned we were completely fogged in and you could barely even see the bay. Here are some pictures from her outing:

One reason for coming to Greenport was to be able to do laundry, which was located two blocks from the marina. We got right on it as soon as possible, but despite having 3 washers all going at the same time, it literally took all morning to get this done. While Denise was tending to finishing this, Mark worked cleaned the bilge in the engine room, and spent a good bit of time on the phone with clients.

In the afternoon we worked on downloading and cataloging the numerous photos taken over the last few days, and we talked with family and friends on the phone. We also reviewed the weather and put together an itinerary for the next few days that would include stops in Sag Harbor, Montauk, and Block Island; all 3 places we have wanted to see, but have not been able to during our last trips through LI Sound.

In the evening we went to dinner at Front Street Station as they are known for their fresh seafood. We both got the broiled flounder dinner and it was really very good. We spoke at length with the manager who gave us some insight into the changes we had seen since being here 4 years ago. He told us the big developers had moved in and are now trying to make this town like a second Sag Harbor. It has historically been a working class-blue collar community, but that is now changing and pushing out a lot of the people who have lived here their whole lives. He also spoke of the inability to get help, caused mostly by the Covid epidemic, but also because the workers are leaving to live in more affordable locations. We were sad to hear this as it is just one more town we have encountered that is losing its authenticity and that which makes it great. We still think it is a great town and we are glad we have been fortunate to see it.

After dinner we went for a walk downtown and stopped into Ralph’s Italian Ices for a cool after-dinner treat.

We walked back to the boat and settled in for the night, still researching for an affordable location in Massachusetts for the next weekend. All the marinas are full, or they charge a ridiculous amount for dockage ($4 – $6 per foot). We are not opposed to moorings or anchoring, but we need to find a place where we can walk or get transportation to go to church. This is our challenge over the next few days. Meanwhile, we will enjoy our planned destinations and keep an eye on the weather, hoping it holds so we can have good cruising conditions.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Greenport, Long Island Sound

Huntington Hospitality!

Posted on June 22, 2021 | Comments Off

**Port Washington to Huntington Harbor**

Huntington Yacht Club, Long Island, NY – Friday, 6/18

As usual, Denise was up early and began the generator to warm up the boat (it was 60°) and to brew coffee. It was calm in the harbor, other than a few passing fishing boats that periodically created small wakes.

Denise wanted to get up early to jump on getting email done, and to get the last blog update published. We were going only 20+ miles today; our destination was Huntington Yacht Club, near the Village of Huntington. This would only take us a little over an hour to get there, so we were not in any hurry to leave our mooring.

Finally, at 9:00 we left Port Washington and headed out of Manhasset Bay onto Long Island Sound in near perfect conditions. It was a beautiful day and there was hardly any wind (less than 5 kts), with barely a ripple on the water. We could even see the NYC skyline as we turned north. Along the way we got to see the hilly eastern shore of Long Island Sound, and passed a few lighthouses; some on land and some in the water.

Before long we were entering the Huntington Bay Inlet which is wide open and has a power plant on its northern shore which is very visible. At the eastern end is the Huntington Inlet Light which signifies the start of the “no-wake” zone all the way into the harbor.

The shoreline surrounding the inlet, the bay and eventually the harbor are speckled with enormous and beautiful homes, as well as natural preserve areas. It really was quite beautiful and Denise took way too many pictures of the homes.

At 10:30 we arrived at the Huntington Yacht Club (HYC) and initially pulled up to the fuel dock to fill our water tanks. We met Dockmaster, Otto and he gave us our mooring assignment, all the required marina information, and a bag of ice for our cooler. We then headed to mooring ball #42 which was not too far from the docks and just along the edge of the shore. It was a great spot and we got to see all the action: boats coming and going in the harbor, birds on the shore, and Yacht Club activities.

We spent the rest of the morning working, doing emails, and talking with family on the phone. After lunch we called for the launch so we could get off the boat and investigate the Yacht Club. We walked around the grounds checked out the pool area, the snack bar at the pool, the clubhouse, and the marina. The wind had picked up considerably, so we were not anxious to go back to the boat, which was rocking around in the waves. Since it was such a nice day, we just hung around the patio area of the club, with its bright colored umbrellas and comfortable chaise lounges.

Eventually, we had the launch take us back to the boat for the rest of the afternoon and evening. Due to Covid, the club’s restaurant and bar was still closed, but we had already made plans to eat on the boat for dinner anyway. Although working intermittently throughout the day, the reach of the Yacht Club Wi-Fi into the moorings was just too erratic for us to try and stream TV or a movie this evening. Plus Mark was wanting to read his book instead, so that is how we both spent the rest of the evening.

Huntington Yacht Club, Long Island, NY – Saturday, 6/19

Figuring she could use her run as a reconnaissance mission, Denise plotted a course to go into Huntington. But first she had to get the launch to take her (or get Mark up early) to get off the boat. The launch was not available until after 7:00, and she was getting impatient waiting. It was getting hotter each minute, and finally when he did come the temperature was already at 73° – normal by FL standards, but she has not had to run in temps like this for a few weeks.

Heading out of HYC, Denise headed up a big hill and then down a narrow 2-lane road, canopied with beautiful trees, lovely homes, and no sidewalks or shoulder. About a quarter of a mile down the road, she passed a few businesses, and the neighborhood firehouse, where finally the road widened and there was sidewalk the rest of the way. She ran past the marinas that lined the edge of the harbor, through a rotary and into the Village of Huntington and some of its many shops and restaurants. After 2 miles she turned around and headed back; a shorter than desired run, but the heat and the hills were taking its toll.

When we first decided on Huntington as a venue, we had wanted to go visit Sagamore Hill National Historic Site, which is the former home of Teddy Roosevelt. In addition to his summer home, there is also a museum and trails to hike on the grounds. We also wanted to see one of the Vanderbilt homes, and both of these venues were within 20 minutes of HYC. So, we tried to rent a car through both Enterprise and Hertz; both of whom had locations less than 15 minutes from the HYC. However, neither agency had weekend hours and would charge us for a rental from Friday until Monday, even if we only wanted the car for one day. The cost would have been over $250 and we felt like we could pay for a lot of Uber rides for that. What we didn’t know was that Uber would present its own challenges.

Once back on the boat, and breakfast done, we planned a local adventure for the day. We would go to the Farmers market in town, then go to lunch, explore the Village a bit, go to 5:00 mass, and grab dinner before heading back to the boat. All that sounded great, except that our plans were thwarted when we learned there were no Uber drivers available in the area. We attempted to get the staff at HYC to take us via car, but they are not allowed, Otto said he could not spare us the manpower. He did offer to have the launch take us to the city boat ramp area and we could walk the rest of the way into town. We asked if there was a place to rent bikes, and then Otto mentioned about the ones you can pick up in one spot and drop off at another spot; like we have seen in many big cities. As luck would have it there was one spot right near the boat ramp.

Off we went with Luis (launch captain) all the way to the end of the harbor, where he dropped us off at the boat ramp docks. We then walked a short distance to the ball fields and deli (as directed by Otto) and sure enough, there was the bike stands with a sign to tell you what to do. But what should have taken us 10 minutes to accomplish, ended up taking well over 30 minutes with all kinds of issues setting up our profiles and choosing bikes that previous renters had not ended their rentals, so it wouldn’t let us rent them. Finally after a few calls to their customer service line, we were able to get it working and got two bikes so we could ride the rest of the way in town. It was hot and we were ready to get under way.

Our first stop was the town’s farmer’s market, which proved to be a big disappointment. Although it was near their closing time when we arrived, it was so much smaller than we expected and some of the vendors were some form of franchise (selling pasta, selling dips and sauces, etc.) that we have seen at other farmer’s markets.

We were done with this within 5 minutes and decided it was time for lunch. But first we needed to find a place to return the bikes as there was no use in paying for time we were not riding them. Lucky for us the stand was right near the restaurant we wanted to go to. Five minutes later and to Mark’s delight we entered “Old Field’s” and placed our orders. The best part was the beer that was super refreshing on this very hot day, but the food was pretty delicious too.

After lunch we walked around through some of the shops along the two main avenues through town. In addition to some local places, they have a few of the usual touristy type stores (Ben & Jerry’s, Kerwin’s Chocolates, etc.). But the one really unique thing we discovered was the bookstore, “Book Revue”. It is like a Barnes & Nobles, plus a huge selection of used books, and a coffee bar. We spent over an hour and half looking through books and enjoying the air conditioning; Mark even found a nice comfy chair where he attempted to take a nap.

Realizing we had spent way too much time in the place we knew we had to leave, but we had no other plans until mass at 5:30. We figured we could go to the public library and hang out there for the next hour or so, before it would be time to walk to church. Back down Main Street we walked to the public library, only to discover that is was closed due to the newly created National Holiday of Juneteenth. We found some shade and sat at the park bench near St. John’s Episcopal Church for a bit, but it too got hot. Across the street was a Panera and we decided it was time for some refreshing drinks and a late afternoon snack. Off we went for refreshments and a place to relax, while making use of their Wi-Fi to plan our next series of stops on this adventure.

Finally, it was time for church, so we walked one block further south to the Church of t. Patrick. Here we found a beautiful church with a huge pipe organ and a warm congregation.

During mass, the expected rain came and we were wondering if we could get a ride back to the yacht club, instead of walking the mile to the town ramp and calling for the launch, as planned. After mass we approached the priest (Fr. Noel Sixon) to see if he knew of anyone who could give us a ride. He kindly offered to take us and we took him up on the offer. Along the way back to HYC we learned he is originally from the Philippines and is one of 5 kids. His father died when he was 4 and his mother when he was in seminary. He was gracious and funny and we really felt so blessed to have encountered this really wonderful man.

Once back at HYC, we made plans to order dinner from the “take out” menu; currently available for pick up only in the clubhouse. We put in our order and waited in their Regatta Room (the informal lounge and bar area) until it was available and then got the launch to take us back to our boat. We turned on our generator to charge the batteries, and then ate our delicious dinner. We were tired and retired very early thereafter to a peaceful night.

We really liked this Yacht Club. It is in a beautiful place and we found the staff to be excellent, and the food to be delicious. Our only regret was not being able to stay longer and visit the places we really wanted to see, but as it is on Long Island, we can always come back by car one day.

Tomorrow we will leave for Greenport, near the end of Long Island. We have been there before and after 4 days on moorings we are anxious for a slip on the dock. Here are a few other pictures of the HYCL

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Huntington, Huntington Yacht Club

Affordable Accommodations in LI!

Posted on June 18, 2021 | Comments Off

Croton on Hudson to Port Washington, Long Island, NY

Port Washington, Long Island, NY – Wednesday, 6/16

At 8:30 am we left Half Moon Bay Marina at Croton-on-Hudson and headed south down the Hudson River. For the next 90 minutes we passed by the Palisades on our right, and some boat traffic on our left, including this large mega yacht.

Just before the George Washington Bridge on the Hudson, we turned left, approached the Spuyten-Duyvil Railroad Bridge, and requested an opening. This bridge spans the Spuyten Duyvil Creek leads to the western entrance of the Harlem River; a body of water dividing Manhattan and the Bronx, in New York City. This 20-mile short cut prevented us from having to go all the way down the Hudson, around Manhattan and back up the East River. And because Island Office has an air draft of only 14 feet, we can easily get under all the other bridges along this river without issue. Therefore, it is a big time and fuel saver. We had traveled this river on a Circle Line Sightseeing Cruise when visiting NYC in 2014, so we knew it was doable and not a bad trip. There was no debris in the water and we only saw a handful of other boats, all of which were pleasure craft and most we did not see until we were almost at the end.

Our travels down the Harlem River had us passing under 14 bridges, starting with the Henry Hudson Bridge and ending with the Ward Island Bridge where the Harlem River meets the East River. Denise was particularly thrilled to go under the Madison Avenue and Willis Avenue bridges as this makes 4 of the 5 bridges we have taken our boat under, and she ran over during the NYC Marathon in 2018.

*Shopping Plaza with Costco – Why can’t we just pull up to the dock???*

We entered the East River and the area known as “Hell Gate” to a favorable 2.5 knot current and had our boat speed up to 23.5 kts. This was a nice way to save on fuel and pick up some time as the Harlem River is a no-wake zone the whole way. Here we encountered a little more boat traffic, including an FDNY boat, a pleasure craft who road in our wake for a while, and one of the infamous NY ferry boats.

We cruised by Rikers Island (NY Prison) and LaGuardia airport to our right, and soon went under the Throgs Neck Bridge and into Long Island Sound. From a distance we could see the fort at Willets Point, and then the US Merchant Marine Academy. Soon we passed by Stepping Stones Lighthouse and made a direct course to the buoy that marks the entrance to Manhasset Bay.

Our time on Long Island Sound was short (7 miles), but we encountered a brisk wind out of the west that sprayed salty water on the bow and port side of the boat; a first in over a week. It was a little bouncy, but not too bad and shortly thereafter we picked up a mooring from the Port Washington town moorings. These are free for the first 24 hours and $25 per day for each day thereafter. This is a real bargain as nowhere else on Long Island will one encounter such great prices.

Once settled into our spot, we ate lunch and then Mark launched the dinghy. He was anxious to move and wanted to scope out the town dock. Meanwhile, Denise worked on the last blog posting, trying desperately to get caught up. After he returned from his outing he prepared for, and then completed a conference call.

In the meantime we watched the town’s boat launch ferry boaters from their moorings to several destinations on the shore. We knew there was a large grocery store (Stop&Shop) and after Mark’s call was over we took the launch to the north town dock and go get a rotisserie chicken for dinner. Only after we got on the launch did we find out that there still is a charge for the launch for the first night, but if you pay the $25/night for the subsequent nights on the mooring, it is free. If we would have known that we would have taken our own dinghy today. But it is still a reasonable price: we will get two-night’s stay for $45 + tip for the launch driver.

The launch dropped us off at the Port North Pier near the Bay Walk, then we just had to cross the street to the “Stop&Shop”. Here we picked up a few produce items as well as the chicken, then walked back to the park to catch the launch.

Patriotic Rock Pile -grocery store in background

During the afternoon the wind really picked up and we returned to a very bouncy boat. We spent time reviewing our upcoming itinerary and finalizing a few things. Mark had been busy making inquiries and researching places where we could affordably tie to a dock for a few nights, as well as securing a place for the upcoming July 4^th weekend. Finally, we received confirmation on a place in the New Bedford/Fairhaven, Massachusetts harbor. Next was more immediate; we already had Friday & Saturday nights covered with moorings at Huntington Yacht club in Huntington Harbor. But we wanted to secure the rest of the weekend, and decided to go all the way to Greenport, where we stayed in 2017, for Sunday and Monday. We went ahead and made reservations for those two nights, praying the weather holds for the hours on Sunday to get there on the Long Island Sound.

The wind seemed to subside a bit, but the outgoing tide against the west wind made the slap of the water quite loud on the hull of the boat. After our dinner, we tried to settle into some reading and stayed up later than we normally would because the din was worse in the stateroom than in the main salon. Finally, it settled down enough that we could turn in for the night and fell fast asleep. But tonight we got treated to another great sunset!

Port Washington, Long Island, NY – Thursday, 6/17

We had the best of intention this morning: Mark was going to take Denise to town in the dinghy so she could get in a run, then he would go to breakfast at a diner and then take her back to the boat. But we stayed up way too late last night, and slept in way too late in the morning. Then the lack of motivation kicked in and the run and dinghy ride was abandoned.

We spent all morning and most of the early afternoon working on publishing the last blog, updating pictures, doing email and other work related items. It really isn’t a bad place to work on our Island Office; the view is outstanding!

Finally, around 2 pm we took the dinghy into the town dock and went for a walk. We learned that they were having an event called “Port Outdoors”. This occurs every other Thursday between May and October, and at 4pm they block off a certain section of Main St. for open air dining, sidewalk sales and live entertainment. We were a bit too early for the festivities and there wasn’t much to do between our arrival and when it was to start. But we walked around to see some of the stores and buildings on Main Street, and getting some exercise in the process.

One of the places we ventured into was “Shields Hardware”. We love going to local hardware stores and this was no exception. We ended up talking with “Bryan” who works there part-time for fun. He is a retired FDNY out of Brooklyn and still works as a volunteer for the Long Island Fire Department. He retired in 2004 and lost many friends on 911 as well as from post-911 injuries. He also shared a lot of suggestions for places to eat in town and explained how the Port Outdoors event closed only part of Main Street, alternating sections depending on the week.

We left there and continued walking up the streets of this “downtown”. It really is just a main street, off of which are the cross streets lined with houses. The middle and high school kids had just gotten out of class (yes they go until the end of June here) and many of them were walking home. Some stopped for sweets at Dunkin Donuts, or at Gino’s for a slice of pizza along the way. It was fun to take in all the sights.

We were not really hungry, but didn’t really want to head back to the boat yet, so we popped into “Finn MacCool’s”, for a beer. “Bryan” suggested this place for good food and good drinks. We found it to be an “upscale” kind of Irish bar, and very nice indeed. Like all the restaurants on Main Street, they too set up tables outside as soon as the road was closed at 4:00. But we had arrived prior to this and were comfortably ensconced in our bar stools with the comfort of air conditioning, so we were not going to move. We ended up eating an early dinner inside as it was too sunny and hot to sit outside. We split a wedge salad and an order of fish and chips that was very good, and the perfect accompaniment to our ice cold beers.

We left Finn MacCool’s and headed back down Main Street as the festivities were just getting under way. We browsed through a few sidewalk sales and saw people gathering with their families at restaurant tables and in nearby Blumenfeld Family Park. The weather was perfect for an evening like this and had we known sooner we would have planned differently.

We took our dinghy back to the boat and spent the rest of the evening watching crazy boaters trying to pick up mooring balls, or just out for a sunset cruise. It was cheap entertainment and fun to watch. It was also calm in the bay and we were also once again treated to a spectacular sunset.

Tomorrow (Friday) we will cruise the 20+ miles north on the Long Island Sound to Huntington Harbor, where we will spend the next two nights.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Fort Washington, Harlem River, Long Island

Half Moon Happy!

Posted on June 17, 2021 | Comments Off

Half Moon Bay Marina, Croton-on-Hudson, NY – Monday, 6/14

The weather was forecasted to be rainy all day, but that wasn’t going to keep us from leaving today. With Maine as our final destination, we knew it was time to start heading that way again. We left Shady Harbor Marina just before 8:00 am and headed down the Hudson River, for the first time ever. It started out drizzling, but eventually stopped and we had almost no rain the rest of the way.

Our journey took us passed all the sights we had written about in prior posts, but this time we did not stop, including Kingston. Our goal was to get to Haverstraw Bay and spend the night somewhere there. It was a bit different seeing some of the sites from a different perspective, especially around West Point and Bear Mountain. Here the low-lying clouds and slight fog provided a whole different look and feel to this area.

Along the way Denise worked on cataloging pictures and writing part of the blog updates. Periodically, Mark even let her drive. For most of the day we had the current in our favor and since most of the Hudson is protected, the southern wind was not really an issue. It got a little bumpy around Newburgh where the Hudson opens up for a bit, as it did in Haverstraw Bay. Here we again stopped at Panco to top off the boat with fuel before settling in on a destination for the night. We could go back to Shattemuck Yacht Club in Ossining, but we wanted a few more offerings (grocery, restaurant, etc.) than they had to offer. We had been in touch with Steve, the dockmaster at Half Moon Bay Marina (HMB), and remembering us from prior visits, gave us a favorable rate for a 2-night stay.

So, just after 1:00 pm we pulled into Half Moon Bay and docked on a side-tie slip that was as far in (and protected) as we could go. This was a good location for us, hoping the breakwater wall and other boats behind would offer protection from the coming west winds. Steve was there to greet us and help with the tie-up, and when Mark mentioned that Denise wanted to run up to the store, he offered a ride.

Mark settled into some work and Denise went to Apple Farm; a small grocery store with fresh produce, a deli, seafood and meat counter. It is like a miniaturized version of Whole Foods. She walked the half-mile back to the boat for exercise, before settling into emails, work and blog updating.

In the afternoon, Looper Herb (“Phantom”) pulled into the marina, and we were surprised. He too is headed to Maine and left Shady Harbor earlier in the day, but had told us he was stopping in Newburgh. Herb is a Platinum Looper (meaning he has done the Great Loop at least twice) and is known throughout the AGLCA for his “Porchtails” – “docktails” on the back of his boat every afternoon. He always has snacks and stories to tell. As usual, he invited all the Loopers in HMB to his boat, so we obliged, mainly to meet some of the other Loopers we did not know. There were about 5 boats who were unable to make it to the Pig Roast, and who were trying to decide what to do should Canada not reopen the borders again this year. This has hampered so many Loopers in the last two years and we feel for these people.

Again it started to drizzle, and realizing we had left the boat hatches open, Mark suggested we leave. We wished all who were leaving the next day a safe journey up the Hudson, and said good-bye to Herb who was headed up Long Island Sound. We may bump into him when we are cruising the Maine coast.

On the way back to the boat, we met Rosie & Clarke Gillespie on “Alegria”; a boat we had passed on the ICW weeks ago. It was fun to meet them (finally) and to learn we shared the same last name. Due to the rain we did not stay long talking and were hopeful our paths may one-day cross again. We returned to the boat for a dinner of leftovers and watching TV before calling it a night.

Half Moon Bay Marina, Croton-on-Hudson, NY – Tuesday, 6/15

It was a beautiful morning and the weather begged for being outside, so Denise went for a run along the water. Here there is a path that leads around the condominiums, to Croton Point Park, and back towards a 9-11 memorial in the other direction. Having run here before, she knew the route and was able to log almost 5 miles on nice flat land.

Once back on the boat, Denise worked on getting a blog post together while Mark did some itinerary planning. We had already identified certain locations (Sag Harbor & Montauk, NY; Block Island, RI, etc.) we want to go to on our way north, and we were trying to secure a marina or mooring for the July 4^th weekend in the southern Massachusetts area.

During the day the wind from the west picked up and the boats in the marina really started to rock. We were bouncing a good bit most of the afternoon, making it difficult to get any reading or writing done for Denise. At one point she went for walk around the marina and adjacent condominium grounds just to get off the boat. When she returned, Mark was talking with “Rick” (“RAMA”) who is originally from Rhode Island. He and his wife Marie are Loopers and he shared his knowledge of Block Island with us. He has long-time friends who live there and he put us in touch with them so we may have a resource once we get there.

Finally in the evening we decided to go out to dinner and get off the boat. We decided to try a restaurant that came highly recommended and was about a mile away just north of the marina. We had to walk first on the pathway Denise had run on in the morning, then take the crosswalk over the freeway and train tracks, then down the street to a small little neighborhood. Here we found The Tavern at Croton Landing and had a wonderful meal in this small but delightful pub.

On the way back we to the boat, we stopped at Croton Landing Park to enjoy the sunset and view. There is no doubt the setting sun over the tops of the mountains on a clear day is quite spectacular. We made it back to the boat just as the sun kissed the earth, ending the day happy that we had stopped here.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Croton on Hudson, Half Moon Bay, Porch Tails

Pig Roast Weekend!

Posted on June 16, 2021 | Comments Off

Donovan’s Shady Harbor Marina, New Baltimore, NY – Friday, 6/11

The morning had us working feverishly to get our tasks complete so we could have fun the rest of the weekend. Denise finished up the laundry and catalogued many pictures while Mark worked on a few boat chores. He also was bird-dogging the return of the loaner car so we could jump on it as soon as it became available. Just after lunch he went up to the office to see if it was back, only to discover that it was and that Herb (“Phantom”) had signed it out and taken 2 other Looper couples with him. His reservation was on a previous page in the log and was not initially seen by staff. Unfortunately, because there were so many in the party, they were able to keep it for longer than the usual 2 hours, which means there would not be time for us to get it, go to Walmart, and then get back in time for the festivities.

Since the loaner car was not available, we took Bob & Diane (“Journey”) up on their offer to use their car. As it was an SUV, we were able to take new Looper friends Rick & Christie (“Inked Mermaid”) with us. They too needed provisions and this gave us an opportunity to get to know them a little bit. It took close to 90 minutes for the round trip, plus shopping time, and we got back just in time for quick showers before the evening activities began.

Around 5:00 pm people had started to gather around the picnic tables, with docktails officially beginning at 5:30. Tonight there were many more people here, so we got to meet even more new Loopers. We visited with everyone for about an hour, but then left as we had made reservations for dinner at the Boathouse, the restaurant at the marina. We knew from previous experience that many locals visit this restaurant on the Friday and Saturday nights, so we made advanced reservations for a party of 6; we had invited Jody & Louis (“Wanderer”), and Marcia & Pat (“Boyle in Water IV”) to join us.

Together we all had a great time enjoying the comradery of our new Looping friends and had a terrific meal at the restaurant. The chef (Brian – not the owner), came out to our table and we had a chance to chat with him as well as Kathy (owner Brian’s wife). Of course we also got a serving of Little Beers (an after dinner cordial topped with whipping cream to make it look like a beer). This is a known entity at Shady Harbor and a special treat they give to all Loopers who come to their marina. It was lots of fun and a great way to kick off the weekend.

Donovan’s Shady Harbor Marina, New Baltimore, NY – Saturday, 6/12

All night long it rained and it was threatening to continue. Eventually, there was an opportunity for a break for a few hours, so Denise went for a run in the neighborhood just south of the marina. The streets in this area are very hilly, and although a small part (1/4 mile) was on a busy two-lane highway, the rest was along streets surrounded by houses with little to no traffic. The main road paralleled the Hudson River and provided nice scenery and with modern and old homes intermixed, bordered by forested lands filled with wildlife. She even spotted a few deer.

Denise returned a bit late, but in time to see the ending ceremonies for the Blessing of the Fleet; a planned event sponsored by the small Awenke Yacht Club located at Shady Harbor. After the overall ceremony was concluded, the priest walked up and down all the docks and provided a blessing for each boat. It took a while for him to get to our boat, but eventually he did, and we were presented with a certificate.

During the blessing of the fleet, the weather cleared up and we ended up having a beautiful day. Once this was done, it was near time for the barbeque, which was also sponsored by the Awenke Yacht Club. They provide this barbeque for no charge, but they offer a raffle (prize is LOTS of bottles of alcohol and wine), and a 50-50 drawing, both of which raise money for one of their charities. We of course had to buy tickets, but it still was cheaper than buying the hamburger, hotdog and steamers we had.

The rest of the afternoon was spent socializing with other Loopers. First we went to the rum tasting event. This was another “free” activity and included an opportunity to play one of the many games (bocce ball, corn hole, etc.) in which we did not participate. We are not fans of rum, so after our tasting we refrained from buying drinks or purchasing a chance on a guitar signed by a country-western singer whom we don’t know (the fundraising component).

Pat & Marcia Boyle (“Boyle in Water IV”)

As we were walking back to the boat, we stopped off at the “Twisted Prop Container Bar” where quite a few people had gathered. We were offered free beers (real ones not the little ones) and had a chance to speak with our friend Michael Hale and his wife Erin. We met Michael in 2015 in Coinjock when he was crew for Brian Donovan’s boat (“Corporate Approved”). In 2019 when we were here he was the commodore of the Awenke Yacht Club, and offered us the use of his car. We have stayed in touch (via FB), so it was nice to spend some time with him and Erin. They now live in New Baltimore, in a house just south of the marina and not too far from where Denise ran this morning.

In the evening, there was a big bonfire to chase away the night air. It was cool, but not cool enough for us to break out chairs and sit around it. However, they were playing the movie “Captain Ron” on the outdoor screen, and that captured us for awhile. We stood around talking to some Looper friends and then retired to our boat. It was a fun day, but we were tired and ready for some quiet time.

Donovan’s Shady Harbor Marina, New Baltimore, NY – Sunday, 6/13

We had secure the loaner car early, and headed out to mass at St. Patrick’s in the nearby town of Ravena. We had attended this church in 2019 with our friends Jackie & Jim (“Donna Pacem”) and looked forward to attending again. The priest is very animated, and gives great homilies. Despite there being a baptism of a young girl, the mass ended within an hour and we were back at Shady Harbor in time to return the loaner car, and for Denise to help out in the next event.

Denise had worked with Kathy Donovan to help lead the Looper Ladies Networking Event with “bottomless mimosas” and champagne. This was a sharing of ideas, concerns and overall helpful hints from women to women, who are “Looping”, or who have extensive cruising experience. Denise had participated in it in 2019 when at that time it was led by Susan Costa (“Lucky Me”). She was unable to attend the Pig Roast this year, but Denise had been in contact with her to glean suggestions and guidance. It was fun listening to what women have to say about what they have learned, what they can’t live without on their boats, and what their particular challenges and goals are or have been.

Afterwards Denise went back to the boat, ate a quick lunch, and began working on the blog that would end up taking several days to finally publish.

Soon it was afternoon and time for the big event: the pig roast. Although officially it started at 3:00 pm, the band began playing around 2:00 pm, and people started gathering soon afterwards. The food started being served around 3:30 after most of the “pot luck” dishes had been assembled. How the pig roast works is that everyone brings a side dish to share, and a $10 donation per person for the food. The donations go to support the American Cancer society Hope House in Nearby Albany, NY; a charity near and dear to the Donovan’s heart and for which they give generously.

The band continued until 6:00 pm and there was a lot of sitting around and talking to others, along with a little alcohol consumption. We got to spend time getting to know our new friends Jayne and Steve (“Sabbatical”) a couple from Gainesville, FL who we met briefly at Great Kills Yacht Club in Staten Island. It was so fun to hear everyone’s stories of how they came to be either full-time live-a-boards, or just part-time cruisers like us. Some have sold everything and others (like us) have “dirt homes” to return to when their adventures are over.

Finally, around 8:00 pm we headed back to the boat and retired for the evening. In the morning we were headed back down the Hudson River (a first for us), hoping to get to Haverstraw Bay and then eventually making our way to Long Island Sound.

We had a lot of fun this weekend, and (as always) enjoyed our time at Shady Harbor. Here are some other pictures that didn’t make it into our narrative:

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged New Baltimore, pig roast, Shady Harbor Marina

Kingston Revisited – Itinerary Revised

Posted on June 15, 2021 | Comments Off

Kingston, NY – Wednesday, 6/9

We left Shattemuck Yacht Club and headed north up the Hudson, passing Croton Point and entering Haverstraw Bay, a wide body of water. To our right was Half Moon Bay Marina were we have stayed twice before, and to our left the town of Haverstraw, with no docking facilities but a reportedly well-protected anchorage. We didn’t go very far before we turned into Panco Fuel Services and filled up on the cheapest diesel we will find in all of NY.

Once we were fueled up, we headed out of Haverstraw Bay, passing the recently decommissioned Nuclear Power Plant at Indian Point.

From there we headed north along the winding Hudson and eventually coming to Bear Mountain and the Bear Mountain Bridge. This is one of the prettiest areas along the Hudson and there is an anchorage on the western shore at which we have considered staying, but it never seems to work into our schedule.

A short distance further up the Hudson we cruised past the US Military Academy at West Point. Its massive complex hugs the western shoreline and is visible for miles before you come to it. The bend in the Hudson took us past their athletic fields on our left and Constitution Island to our right. During the American Revolution, this island was used by the Army to anchor a chain that was strewn across the Hudson from the shores of West Point, providing a barrier to enemy troops attempting to progress down the Hudson to NYC. It ended up sinking several boats and contributed to the US winning the war.

After West Point we cruised through the mountain region known as Hudson Highlands with mountains and state parks on both sides, as well as a few small towns. However, there is no real place for transient cruisers to stop, so we continued on. This trip we spotted the remains of the old aqueduct that was built to channel fresh drinking water from the upstate reservoirs to the eastern shore residents. It is right near the trail head to Sugarloaf Mountain and where NYC residents come for weekend hiking adventures.

In this same vicinity we pass by Pollopel Island with the ruins of Bannerman’s Castle. We have written about this in our previous blogs, and we always look forward to this landmark with its interesting history. You can read about it here.

After Pollopel Island, the Hudson River widens for a period of time, and the channel took us past the town of Newburgh. Although there is city marina and several waterfront restaurants, it has never given us a reason to stop; the docks are exposed to river wakes and winds, and there is reportedly a large homeless population that makes it unpleasant for visitors.

We went under the Newburgh bridge and continued north, eventually passing the town of Poughkeepsie and its two bridges; one a pedestrian pathway converted from the old railway. Poughkeepsie is home of Vassar College where our nephew (Ryan) recently graduated with a degree in economics. Now he is off to start his career as a business consultant based out of Washington DC. Unfortunately, our schedules could not be timed for us to participate in the graduation activities.

We left the town and just before coming up to the Poughkeepsie Yacht Club (where we stayed in 2019), we passed the Hyde Park area. Here from the river you can see the CIA (Culinary Institute of America) and the Vanderbilt estate; both of these we visited in 2015.

We continued north along the winding Hudson, passing the Esopus Lighthouse. This is a landmark we knew that told us we didn’t have much further to go before reaching Kingston; our destination for the night. We came to Rondout Creek, identified by its lighthouse at its entrance. Both of these lights are typical of the unique lighthouses found along the Hudson River.

We entered Rondout Creek and pulled into the designated slip behind the Hudson River Maritime Museum, our dockage for the night. Here the first-time dockage includes entrance to the museum and is located right in the heart of downtown Kingston. This is a highly desired location and we felt fortunate to be able to get in as we have tried twice in the past and they were already booked. Right next door is the Wooden Boat School where the actively hold classes on building, repairing and restoring old wooden boats.

Shortly after our arrival another boat pulled in behind us. Come to find out first-time Loopers Mike & Karen (“Seven Turns”) were from Sebastian, FL, just a few miles south of where we keep our boat in Merritt Island. They also are part-time residence of Bryson City, NC where we visited in 2016. We spent some time chatting and with them off and on over the course of the afternoon.

Mark had a conference call, so Denise went for a walk around the downtown. We have not really explored much beyond a two block radius and wanting some exercise she used this as an opportunity for reconnaissance. She stuck to the main street and walked up the hill where she found a few more restaurants and the Reher Center; an immigrant cultural center. Here she viewed one of their outdoor displays before moving back to the waterfront.

Later that afternoon we got to witness a local crew team put their skulls in the water and race up and down Rondout Creek. Even though it was their practice workout, it was fun to see the teams working together to make their boats fly across the water.

In the meantime, Mark had been messaging with our friends Jody & Louis (“Wanderer”) who were at the city docks, and had scheduled a Happy Hour for 5:00. We had a very nice time socializing with them and getting to know them. We invited them to join us at the Old Savannah Southern Table and Bar for dinner, but they had other plans. Once they left, we walked down the street to the restaurant and had a simple but delicious meal. Again here, however, the lack of help was apparent and we waited a long time for everything. Our waitress (who was a long-term employee) explained that they literally are hiring anyone they can find, even without experience because no one wants to work. She shared that this particular restaurant was one of the best employers, paid well, and they don’t usually hire inexperienced staff. Ah the sign of the times!

When we returned to the boat we saw the fire department was across the creek. They were pumping water from the creek, through the fire truck pumps and hoses, and then back into the creek. We later learned they were testing out equipment and did this in a way to use the water from the creek and replenish it back to its natural source. It provided our entertainment for the evening, until it got dark and they left.

Donovan’s Shady Harbor Marina, New Baltimore, NY – Thursday, 6/10

There was no hurry to leave this morning as we only had a short distance to go. Mark thought he would sleep in; that was until at 5:30 am when a women’s crew team started launching their skulls right off the docks near the bow of our boat. Already up, Denise went for a run and discovered a part of town that included houses (some old and some new) as well as where the park entrance was at the top of the hill in town. Unfortunately, it was closed; an apparent Covid-effected venue. However, she did see deer near the Catholic Church in town, and discovered a Children’s Home not too far from the boat.

One of the other reasons for staying a little later was to see the Hudson River Maritime Museum. With our dockage came free admittance and they were closed when we arrived. Since they didn’t open until 11:00, we only had a limited amount of time to spend. However it was just enough time to hit the highlights and to see the importance of this great river in our country’s founding, and in continuous economic development over time.

We left the museum and immediately made the boat ready and left the dock. It was just before noon and we could see new boats were coming into Rondout Creek and some would most likely want our spot. The other boats around us had already left, except “Seven Turns” who were staying another night. As we passed the channel entrance we noticed the pontoon boat that had run aground when we arrived the previous day, was now hard aground as the tide was extremely low. We wondered how long it was going to be like that; probably until the next highest high tide.

Our plan was to head towards an area known as Middle Ground Flats where the Hudson is very narrow and is bordered by two small towns; Athens on the west and Hudson on the East. We had thought we would stay in Athens anchorage and then use the dinghy to see Hudson as well. We had also considered going to the town of Catskill; a place we had also considered in 2019. It is home to artist Thomas Cole, an iconic landscape artist, as well as the setting for the story of Rip Van Winkle.

However, once we got underway we started thinking about the weekend activities and decided to go straight to Shady Harbor Marina directly. We had a few minor boat repairs, and we knew there were a lot of Looper boats behind us heading up for the weekend festivities. We had lots of laundry to do, and the 2 washers and dryers at the marina would not be available as easily on Friday through Sunday as they would be now. We also needed to make a grocery store/Wal-Mart run and had hopes of securing the marina loaner vehicle for such an outing. We called ahead to make sure we could arrive a day early, and once confirmed we adjusted our itinerary and headed to Shady Harbor. Along the way we passed a fuel barge, a tow and many beautiful homes that line the shore of the Hudson River.

Once we had docked and settled the boat, (on “Sin Dock Lane”) we were immediately met by Brian (owner) who greeted us with big bear hugs and lots of smiles. We chatted for a bit with him and then checked into the marina office. We reserved the loaner car first for Sunday morning to make sure we could go to church, and also requested it for Friday for the shopping adventure. That’s when we learned it was going in for its annual inspection in the morning and most likely would not be available until the afternoon. We reserved for our 2-hour block on Friday, hoping the inspection would not take as long. Brian had told us they were expecting 16 Looper boats on Friday and we knew they all would most likely want to use the car too.

Once back at the boat, we got down to our chores for the day. Denise plowed through several loads of laundry, doing email, and handling office things. Mark had work to do for clients, and had also become friendly with the people in the boat next to us. Bob and Diane (“Journey”) are Gold Loopers (like us) and they have a dirt home in the Albany area. They offered us the use of their car on Friday, should the loaner car not be available. This is the type kindness we always see when cruising and yet we still get surprised by the generosity of others.

We did take a little time to enjoy some of the fun sights that were new to the marina since 2019. One such addition was the gator (or is it a croc?), carried aboard “Corporate Approved” on their return from FL. We first saw it in Beaufort, NC when we had pizza together. See here.

Another addition is the new “Twisted Prop Container Bar”. It is still being set up due to shortages of needed components, but it was made “usable” for the weekend events.

As anticipated, at 5:30 the Loopers in the marina began assembling at the picnic tables under the tent at the marina for “docktails”. Here we got to reconnect with old friends like Dorothy & Terry (“Magic”) whom we met in Atlantic City in 2017, as well as previously-met new friends Ken & Karen (“Island Girl”), Jody & Louis (“Wanderer”), and Marcia & Pat (“Boyle in Water IV”). We also met many others, collecting a handful more boat cards (business cards for those who cruise) and giving out ours as well. We stayed until about 7 pm and then headed back to our boat for a dinner of Fajita’s cooked up by Capt. Mark. It was a great day and we were looking forward to the rest of the weekend.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Kingston, Shady Harbor, West Point

On the fence in Ossining!

Posted on June 9, 2021 | 1 comment

Shattemuck Yacht Club – Ossining, NY – Tuesday, 6/8

Today was a day of indecision; first on how to spend the day, then on where to go to next after Ossining. We figured this must be what real retirement is like.

Denise went out for a run; the only decisive action at the start of the day. Her travels took her down the road of the yacht club past the industrial area, near the train station, around a new condominium complex and to the path that runs along the Hudson River. Here there is a park that is about a half a mile along the waterway, and it includes sculptures and playground areas, as well as plenty of lawn area. The park leads all the way to the edge of the property where there is a water treatment facility and a back gate into Sing Sing prison.

From there she ran back towards the train station and up the ramp to get over the tracks. This took her to the lower downtown area where there is little to see. From there she went up the big hill of Maine Street to the real down town and was pleasantly surprised; another town that is part of The Museum in The Streets. There are several streets with restaurants and independently owned stores, a pharmacy, toy store, post office and a small grocery store. She ran past several old churches, historical buildings (involved in the American Revolution) and past the High School. Then back down the hill to head back to the boat.

The forecast called for a rainy day beginning around 11:00 am, so we were trying to figure out what to do with the day. We considered taking a train to the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) – just north of us in Hyde Park. But we had already been there in 2015, and with Covid restrictions they have limited access to their bookstore and bakery. We had already learned that they only had two of their restaurants open, and both were sold out for lunch and dinner. Given this, we nixed the idea and also nixed going back into NYC (about a 50 minute commute to Grand Central Station on the train).

Meanwhile, we were also trying to decide where to go next. We had several options on where to spend the next two days, and we spent time more thoroughly researching several destinations. After confirmation of an opening on their docks, we opted to return to Kingston, only this time staying on the waterfront at the Maritime Museum. On our last two visits we stayed at Roundout Marina, but it is away from the downtown. This time we would be staying in the heart of town and will get to explore a different area. We also set our sights on an anchorage for Thursday night, leaving a short travel day on Friday up to Shady Harbor.

When all this was done and finally decided, it was time for lunch and we had not seen one drop of rain. About this time, we lost all power in the boat. After determining it was just our slip (not the entire dock or marina), Mark switched our power plug to the pedestal to use the 50 amp (we now use the 30 amp mostly) and we were back up and doing ok.

After lunch and getting a few other things done we decided to go up the hill and explore the downtown. We needed milk on the boat and Mark had scoped out the location of the grocery store. On our way out of the marina Mark stopped by to talk with dockmaster DE to tell him about our power issue; he was fine with our switch out and said he would put his electrical guy on it. Note: we had been forewarned about the inconsistent power issues here as they have some new floating docks and have had some problems. While Mark was talking with the DE, he offered to give us a lift into downtown (a 2 minutes car ride) and so we took him up on this.

Once downtown, we walked around for a bit but only for Mark to see what was here. We found the small grocery store and once we purchased the milk, we headed back down the hill to the yacht club.

In the meantime the storms were brewing all around us, but we were able to make it back to the boat before the rain came. And for the next two hours we endured a horrendous thunderstorm with lightening hitting all the mountain areas around us. At one point there was a loud alarm and then we realized the train had shut down; they must have lost power somewhere along the electrical line. We used this time to get caught up on reading and Mark even got in a late afternoon nap.

Finally around 5:30 pm the rain started to let up and by 6:00 pm it was barely sprinkling. We ventured out of the yacht club and walked over to The Boathouse restaurant, located at the marina next door. It is a nautical themed restaurant and offers a variety of items on the menu, which are reasonably priced. We both ordered fish-topped salads that were refreshing and large enough that were stuffed when we left.

In the evening we both dove back into reading, at least until our eyes could no longer stay open and then we went to bed.

We really liked our stay here, and despite the fact that the yacht club was not really open for drinks or dining (it is not that kind of club), and the power issues, it was a nice place to stay. Their Wi-Fi is excellent and the people here were super friendly. From our boat, we enjoyed watching the coming and going of the trains, and consider their rumble along the tracks as “normal” and part of the Hudson River experience.

Ossining is a very interesting town. Initially built for industry due to waterway access, it is rich in history and has a very diverse multi-cultural population of people whom all seem to get along well together. Despite the state penitentiary being located here (or maybe in spite of it), it is rated as one of the safest cities in NY. Many people live here, but work in NYC and commute either by train or by car. And the view of the Hudson River is understandably a huge attraction. We are glad we came and would suggest it to anyone on their way up the Hudson River.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Hudson River, Ossining

Glorious Lady Liberty!

Posted on June 8, 2021 | Comments Off

Shattemuck Yacht Club – Ossining, NY – Monday, 6/7

This morning we said goodbye to the fine people at GKYC and headed out into a very calm Raritan Bay. We were initially following our new friends Marcia and Pat (“Boyle–in– Water-IV” – aka “BIW”), but they us take the lead out of the bay and into the Hudson River. We cruised under the Verrazano Narrows Bridge, passing Fort Wadsworth on our port side and coming into a busy, but mostly calm NYC Harbor.

Working with “BIW”, we coordinated the taking of pictures of each of our boats in front of the Statue of Liberty. We had also been in touch with one other Looper boat (“God Speed II”) and met up with them right in front of Lady Liberty. We let them go first and took their picture, then we were next, and finally “BIW” was last. It only took about 20 minutes for this as there was no pleasure boat traffic and only one tour boat to negotiate around. Further up the river there are the high-speed ferries between NYC and NJ and these are the ones that really kick up the water. But for today, it was pretty good conditions and they shared a great shot of our boat.

The other boats had different destinations for the day; Liberty Landing in Jersey City. So we radioed our good-byes and made plans to meet up next weekend at Shady Harbor Marina for the Pig Roast. And then we headed up the Hudson River.

We rounded the battery and headed north, passing many interesting Manhattan buildings and sights. One of the most oddly shaped and noticeable sights here now is “Little Island Park”; a free public park and outdoor entertaining venue created by Barry Diller and wife Dionne Von Furstenberg. You can read about this interesting park here and here.

We also get a kick out of the driving range (part of “The Ryder Cup Room at Chelsea Piers Golf Club”) that is right on the river and has netting to capture golf balls, protecting the nearby boats in adjacent marinas. If you are interested in playing you can get more info here.

Further up the Hudson we passed the tall buildings on the upper west side of NYC, a couple of south-bound ships, and then Riverside Park where we could see the dome of Grants tomb and the Clarion Tower of Riverside Church.

Eventually we came to the George Washington (GW) Bridge and the little red lighthouse (officially Jeffrey’s Hook Light), the lighthouse stands on Jeffrey’s Hook, a small point of land that supports the base of the eastern pier of the bridge. You can read the fascinating story about this lighthouse here.

Almost immediately after the GW the Hudson River turns majestic to us. The western shore mountains are green-covered rock formations with high cliffs beautiful scenery. The eastern shore is marked by a series of small towns and the train that runs all the way into Manhattan.

The waterways are not crowded, although there is still a bit of commercial traffic (barges, etc.), but plenty of space to easily navigate around them. Here we passed several Looper boats on their way north; there are at least 20 now making their way up the Hudson River.

Not long afterwards we came up to the Cuomo Bridge (formerly the Tappan Zee – which it will always be to us). Over the years we have watched them build the new one and take down the old one. Now there is only the new one and no evidence of the old.

Just beyond the bridge are the towns of Tarrytown and Sleepy Hollow (home of the headless horseman), and then just beyond these is Ossining, and home of the famous Sing Sing prison. Anyone who has watched an episode of Law & Order, or any NYC-based crime movie knows of this NY State Prison; its where such notables as killer David Berkowitz (“Son of Sam”), and Ethel and Julius Rosenberg (spies) were housed until executed for their crimes. Ossining is also home of Shattemuck Yacht Club, and our dockage for the next two days. They are an MTOA sponsor and offer a second night for free for members, so we decided to take them up on this.

Initially we pulled into the fuel dock for a pump-out (free here) before being directed to our slip by the DE the dockmaster. We then settled the boat and checked out our surroundings, including the Yacht Club and facilities. We had a spectacular view of the Hudson River and although exposed to the waves from passing boats, we were far enough away from the channel that it was not bad at all.

After lunch we settled into doing some work, updating the last blog post and watching Loopers go by. Many have gone into Croton-on-Hudson, the town just north of us in Haverstraw Bay and where we have stayed in the past. We wanted to explore a different area this time and chose not to go there. We also watched the endless parade of trains going by, most of them heading north and increasing in number as the afternoon wore on. We figured they were taking suburbanites home from work in NYC and repositioning for the reverse commute in the morning.

Late in the afternoon it started to rain, and initially it was all around us. We could see the showers off in the distance pouring over Croton-on-Hudson, and the Tappan Zee Bridge area. Finally it came our way and gave the boat a good washing and a welcome relief as it was very hot today (90°+ again today). After it cleared up we were going to walk to the Boathouse Restaurant for dinner. However, Mark had a conference call that ended up lasting longer than planned so we opted for a quick meal on the boat. Tomorrow we will go exploring, hopefully before the forecasted rains come and help break this heat wave.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Ossining, Statue of Liberty

Great times at Great Kills!

Posted on June 7, 2021 | Comments Off

Great Kills Yacht Club (GKYC) – Staten Island, NY – Friday, 6/4

Today we had lots of work to do but before getting started, Denise went for a short walk around the neighborhood. The road which GKYC is located on is about a half mile long and houses 2 other yacht clubs and a marina, along with some homes and town homes. Here are a few pictures from her walk:

We spent the majority of the day working, planning our future stops, and talking with some of the GKYC members, many are in awe of our boat and come by to complement us. Although it was mostly partly cloudy most of the day, it did not rain. However, around 3:30 pm a large Florida-like thunderstorm blew through the area, but only lasted about 30 minutes. The good news was it washed a lot of the salt off of the boat, and some dirt with it.

Having eaten on board the last two nights, we decided to go out for dinner. There are several choices in the area, but we stuck with our “usual” spot at Cole’s Dockside. We usually take advantage of their fixed price menu option as it is always a good value. However, they have now changed their offering time and we were not able to take advantage of it as we arrived too late. This was disappointing as it is usually a good value, and although our food was good, we thought it was not as memorable.

We walked back to the boat after dinner and were amazed at how calm and peaceful it was.

Great Kills Yacht Club – Staten Island, NY – Saturday, 6/5

As usual, Denise was up with the Canadian geese, ducks and other waterfowl squawking since before sunrise. She was able to get in a run this morning; the first one in a week. It was tough because of the hills, and the lack of running in the last few days, but at this point all she is interested in is maintaining some level of fitness. Venturing to a new area to run, she discovered two small parks tucked in between a few neighborhoods and adjacent to the GK harbor.

After breakfast we met up with some other loopers Louis & Jody (“Wanderer”), and Pat & Marcia (“Boyle-in-Water-IV”) and walked to “Frank & Sal’s”. This is a favorite ‘must-see’ Italian market with great meats, cheeses, fresh deli salads, bakery and prepared meals. It is not big, but was enough good things to temp us to put in our basket, including some deli meat, Italian cookies, and crab-stuffed salmon for dinner onboard tonight.

Since we finally had favorable albeit warm weather, we took advantage and stayed around the yacht club to clean and polish items on the boat. Mark scrubbed the outside while Denise did major chrome and stainless steel polishing. We socialized with some of the other locals and got visited by Pat & Marcia (“Boyle-in-Water-IV”) who were exploring the harbor in their dinghy.

During the day our new friends on “Wanderer” left and other Looper boats came in, including one in a slip next to us. Jon and DeeDee (“War Eagle”) pulled in and after a quick tie-up, we introduced ourselves. Here we discovered they were from Orlando, now living in Winter Garden but formerly from Audubon Park. After more discussion we learned Jon was born and raised in Miami and DeeDee was a 1990 graduate of Bishop Moore High School; Denise’s alma mater. What a small world it truly is. We left them to settle their boat and did not see them again until much later in the day, and then only briefly. We never got the chance to connect with them much, but hope to see them further up the Hudson River.

That evening we cooked dinner on board (the salmon was delicious) and then walked the docks, talking with a few of the locals on the dock next to ours. It is always through the locals that we get great ideas of things to do and see in the area, so we always try to engage such folks along the way.

In the evening we first attempted to stream a movie (“The Age of Adeline” – very intriguing) with GKYC’s Wi-Fi, but had to eventually switch to our own hotpot. One of our disappointments in this visit is that they still have not upgraded their WI-FI, and it has gotten even worse than it was on our last visit. John C has told us they now are working on the infrastructure of the club and it will be better shortly. We are hoping that it will be improved should we return in the fall. The cell coverage is also spotty, but we have been able to make it work when needed and then use it for WI-FI. But this consumes much of our available bandwidth, and it is a frustrating first-world problem.

Great Kills Yacht Club – Staten Island, NY – Sunday, 6/6

Today was a very hot day and one full of activity and fun.

We started by walking a mile to the Church of St. Clair for 8:30 am mass. This is a lovely parish in a small but upscale neighborhood, so the walk was pleasant among the tree-lined streets.

After mass we continued walking up the street to the little ‘downtown’ area of Great Kills, and to the train station. Our intent was to take the train all the way to the Staten Island (SI) Ferry. However, they were doing scheduled maintenance which we didn’t know about, so we were only able to take it half way. Then they had a “courtesy bus” that took us the rest of the way. This added more time to our trip, but it was still early enough in the day that it was not an issue. The bus dropped us off at the SI Ferry terminal.

But before catching the ferry, we walked to the Staten Island September 11 Memorial, located along the waterfront near the terminal. Here there is a sculpture and parkland that pays tribute to those SI residences who lost their lives on 9-11, as well as the victims of the first World Trade Center bombings in 1993. Part of the memorial also includes a section of the first responders involved in the recovery efforts on 9-11, many of whom became ill from the effects and have subsequently died. It has two “wings” to represent postcards and with the right angle you can see the Manhattan skyline between them. You can learn more about this memorial here.

After the memorial, we walked back to the ferry terminal and caught the 11:30 am ferry to Manhattan. It was a nice day to be on the water, and we were not really interested in going into Manhattan, we just wanted to stay on the ferry and ride it back to SI. However, due to security reasons we were forced to get off.

Since we were in Manhattan we figured we would get some lunch before heading back to Staten Island. We really didn’t want to venture too far into the city, (it was already approaching 90°) so we stayed close to the financial district. Unfortunately, since it was Sunday few things were open. However, we managed to find a small sandwich shop and took our lunch to a nearby park to eat it. Called the “Queen Elizabeth II September 11^th Garden”, this particular park provided a perfect respite from this hot and noisy day. It is true that NYC is the city that does not sleep and on this Sunday, there were several construction and road utility works underway right nearby.

After lunch we turned down Wall Street and took it to the water, figuring a walk along the East River may be cooler than along city sidewalks. This was partially true, but eventually we had to move out into the sun. The pathway was crowded but we didn’t have to take it too far before we ended back at the ferry terminal. We only had a short wait for the next ferry, and grabbed spots on the East River side for our return trip. The ferry was crowded and we welcomed a spot near the window where we could watch the boats out on the water. We even got to see quite a display of sailboats enjoying beautiful conditions.

Once back on Staten Island we had to reverse the bus-to-train excursion. It seemed to take much longer than in the morning, but it was probably because we were hot and tired. Once we finally got back to the GK station we stopped at the Top Tomato grocery store to pick up a few items. This is a local chain and has some pretty good produce prices, as well as a seafood and meat counter.

Finally, we arrived back at the boat, stowed our purchases and fixed an ice cold drink. We had walked the equivalent of 6 miles today and that was over 10,000 steps.

We went over to visit Marcia & Pat (“Boyle-in-Water-IV”) on their boat to discuss departure plans for tomorrow. They are also leaving and we wanted to coordinate for picture taking of our mutual boats in front of the Statue of Liberty. We were excited as we have not had an opportunity like this in all the times we have been through NY Harbor on our Island Office.

In the evening, we prepared and ate dinner on the boat, and spent time talking to family members on the phone. Once again we had a fun time at Great Kills Yacht Club, but we would be leaving tomorrow for our adventure up the Hudson River.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Breaking records!

Posted on June 4, 2021 | Comments Off

Great Kills Yacht Club – Staten Island, NY – Wednesday, 6/2

Today was a very very long day, but one full of great accomplishment by the crew of Island Office. We woke up early and left the dock at Rock Hall Landing Marina at 6:00 am as planned. It was an overcast sky and was expected to stay that way all day, but little wind was forecasted so we felt good about our plans.

As mentioned in the last post, our goal was to go as far as possible today, with a realistic goal of getting to Atlantic City or even Manasquan, NJ by the end of the day. But we were going to take it one step at a time, and the first step was to get off the Chesapeake Bay. We spent 2 hours cruising along, passing a few racing sailboats headed in the opposite direction (was there a regatta in Annapolis this weekend?), and actually being passed by a few sport-fishing boats. And with little wind, it was very calm on the water. We also passed by some nice homes, and some mobile homes that have one the best sunset views on the Chessy.

Around 8:00 am we entered the Chesapeake & Delaware (C&D) canal and noticed a few sights along the way:

This narrow canal is pretty much a straight shot, with a few curves and very tall bridges that cross this 12-mile waterway. There are some beautiful houses on both sides and you pass by Chesapeake City on the eastern (southern) side of the waterway. One of the first “landmarks” spotted just before coming to Chesapeake City is Dann Marine, a barge, tow and marine company that actually has a fascinating history that started in Central Florida, of all places. You can read all about it here.

Along the canal we spotted a few people walking, jogging or bicycling on the pathways that line the canal. But perhaps the most interesting thing we spotted was a lawn being mowed by remote control.

By 9:30 we were exiting the C&D Canal and headed out onto the Delaware River. There were some small waves coming from the southeast and hitting just right of our bow, so it was a little bouncy, but very tolerable. The best part was there was an outgoing tide and we picked up an additional 1.5 knots of speed that we rode all the way to the Cape May (CM) Canal. Along the way we passed several Looper boats that had left either Delaware City or Chesapeake City earlier in the day, and we had been following on our Nebo and Facebook apps. About half way down the Delaware is the Ship John (“Jack”) Lighthouse; a great aid to measuring progress on this large body of water.

And at 11:30 we entered the Cape May Canal and we were delighted that we had put one large body of water behind us today without incident.

Before continuing on we had to stop for fuel and filled up at the cheapest place we know of in New Jersey: “Miss Chris Marina” up the Spicer Creek Canal. This is in a shallow creek just before the NJ 109 Bridge that crosses over the CM Canal, and before coming into Cape May Harbor and the Atlantic ICW. We turned up the creek and negotiated around a bunch of kayakers before pulling in for the fueling. It seemed like it took forever, but finally we had filled up our fuel tanks and were back on our way.

We entered the Cape May Harbor and cruised through the channel that runs in front of the US Coast Guard station.

It was 12:30 when we exited the inlet and headed out into the Atlantic Ocean. This is the worst part of the entire trip for Denise, and gives her much anxiety. This is because she is susceptible to seasickness, there are few “bail out spots” on the NJ shore, and the ICW along this stretch is too shallow for us to navigate. And eventually, all boats must go into the Atlantic at Manasquan, so there is no getting around it.

Looking at the time and finding very favorable sea conditions, we started thinking about going all the way to Staten Island in NY. From past experience we knew it was 2 hours to Great Kills Yacht Club (GKYC) in Staten Island from Manasquan, and we had time and daylight working to our advantage. The only unknown was would the wind still stay calm and the waves stay relatively flat.

It was a little rolly at first because we were on a NE heading and the waves were slightly abreast of the boat. We passed Atlantic City (our first bail out stop) at 2: 20 pm and were still ok, so we decided to continue on with the day. Up until now we had hardly seen any other boats, passing only one cruiser and a few sport fishing boats.

We had identified Barnegat Inlet as a possible bailout, if needed, but the seas were still tolerable and we still had little wind. About 10 miles after Atlantic City the coast turns inward and we turned to a more northerly course. Then the ride got a lot smoother and more comfortable, and we decided to push on to GKYC. We had already been in communication with John C (Harbor Host at GKYC) and knew he had a slip open for us, a day earlier than originally planned.

We continued on past Barnegat Inlet and eventually Manasquan Inlet seeing a few dolphin, fishing boats, whale watching boats, a few cruising boats, and even getting buzzed by a few A10 airplanes that looked like drones. The sun was getting lower in the sky (and now making it tough to get pictures of the shoreline). However, we could easily pick out the buildings as we passed Asbury Park, Sea Bright, and eventually we could see the lighthouse at Sandy Hook.

Usually from around Manasquan we can start to see the NYC skyline, but it was so overcast and hazy we were at Asbury Park before Mark saw the outline of the buildings. As we rounded Sandy Hook and entered into the Raritan Bay, we could see the fog covering the tall buildings in the city and the famous Verrazano-Narrows Bridge.

On our way across this bay we passed fellow Looper boat “Selah Way”, whom we had been in contact with all day via our Looper FB page.

We entered the Great Kills channel and eventually the harbor to find things not much different than they were 2 years ago. Having a preassigned slip, we knew where to go, and at 6:30 pm Captain Mark successfully steered our boat into its home for the next several days.

We settled the boat and poured ourselves a much-deserved drink. We had traveled 219 nautical miles in 12.5 hours; this was our longest single-day distance cruising ever! We were happy to have this part of our trip behind us.

Our arrival prompted people on the dock, and Dave and Amy (“Selah Way”) pulled in shortly behind us. Eventually all the Loopers (“Uncorked”, “River Ranger”, “Agape”, “Conflict of Interest”) who were here came out and we had a very impromptu “Docktails”, along with John C and GKYC member Jimmy, whom we knew from previous visits.

Finally around 7:45 we broke up the party and headed back to the boat. We were hungry and desperately wanted showers. It had been a good day and we felt a great sense of accomplishment, but we were thoroughly exhausted, and after a quick bite to eat we went to bed right away.

Great Kills Yacht Club – Staten Island, NY – Thursday, 6/3

Today was a day of recovery, rest, and work. We woke to the pitter patter of rain; it had started in the early morning hours. This was just one more factor that de-motivated Denise, and she bailed on her planned run, betting up for a badly needed cup of coffee instead. Mark slept in later than usual, but he deserved it as he drove most of the way yesterday.

The weather forecast called for rain and windy weather, so we hunkered down and kept close to the boat. We did work for clients and the business, and Denise published the last blog, and cataloged pictures. We both talked with several family members and a few of the local club members who were out on the docks.

Around noon we watched “Uncorked” leave and saw another boat “Boyle-n-Water IV” come into their spot. Perfect timing as the rain had subsided and now it was just overcast. Another Looper boat came into the slot next to us, but their power requirements were bigger than the yacht club could handle and they ended up moving to the marina next door (Mansion Marina).

In the late afternoon we went for a walk up to the clubhouse and ran into some of the other Loopers. They were all headed up to the bar and we agreed to join them. Some of the folks left soon after the first drink, but Pat & Marcia (“Boyle-n-Water IV”), whom we had originally met in Norfolk, and Doug & Vickie (“Conflict of Interest”) stayed for a while. We spent time talking about our mutual cruising adventures and getting to know each other a little bit. This yacht club has the friendliest members and this is why we come here. There was one in particular who bought us all a round of drinks; not that they are expensive here. We think they live vicariously through all us Loopers and go out of their way to make us feel welcome. This is why it is our 5^th visit and will most likely stay here on our way home.

We didn’t stay long at the bar, but headed back to the boat to get dinner and finish up posting the last blog update. It had been a low-key day, but one of fun, new friendships and rekindling of old familiar faces.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Re-Planning our way north!

Posted on June 3, 2021 | Comments Off

Rock Hall, MD – Tuesday, 6/1

Today was a good day for making progress up the Chesapeake Bay. We left Wormley Creek Marina at 7:00 am saying goodbye to the nice folks in the marina, the USCG Training Center Yorktown, and the Coleman (Yorktown) bridge which had become our “front room” view for the last 11 days. We had a plan to get to Herrington Harbour in Maryland; just south of Annapolis. This would be about 100 miles and a good day on the water. The main reason for stopping here was fuel prices, but also because ever since we stopped here in 2019, we have wanted to stay and enjoy this resort.

We exited the marina channel and headed out onto the York River. There was a little wind, but it was a nice morning and we cruised along fine. Within 30 minutes we were out on the Chesapeake Bay, heading north under pretty good conditions. The wind was from behind and that made the slight wave action tolerable; if it had been blowing more it would have been quite uncomfortable because we had the current against us. This slowed us down by about a knot or two, but we were still going fast by most cruiser’s standards.

We ran along the western shore where we could see many houses and beach areas, passing the Rappahannock River. To the east, all we could initially see was water, but eventually the small islands marking this part of the Bay came into view. There were many sailboats out on the water and a few cruisers making their way north. We also passed a large southbound motor yacht that was cruising very fast, and when he passed he threw a big wake. Not quite like the container ship on the Cape Fear River last month, but it still rocked the boat a bit.

Eventually we came to the Potomac River marked by the Smith Point Lighthouse. Here its 8-mile wide mouth feeds into the Chesapeake and stirs the water, creating waves that flow with the current. Things were a little bit bumpy for a while, but still tolerable. After we crossed it and passed by Point Lookout, the boat settled down and the ride got more comfortable. It wasn’t long thereafter that we passed by a restricted zone; part of the bombing targets used by the military from NAS PAX. This is the Naval Air Station located at the entrance point of the Patuxent River; the river that would have taken us to Solomons, MD, where we intended to stay last weekend.

Just north of the Pax River and Solomons were the high cliffs of Drum Point, followed by the Cove Point Lighthouse, and the Cove Point LNG Facility; all of these have become landmarks for us over the last 6 years.

We continued north until we came to Herring Bay, and turned into the channel for the Herrington Harbour Marina and resort. We had reservations for the evening here, and they had already charged us for the night. However, it was only 12:30 and we really wanted to get further today if at all possible. So, once we took on fuel and added water to our tanks, Mark successfully negotiated with the dockmaster and they gave us a full refund. Had this been a weekend, they would not have done this and we were then free to continue on our travels.

By 1:00 pm we left Herrington Harbour and set our sights on two possible stops: Rock Hall (just north of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge on the Eastern shore) about 1.5 hours away; or Chesapeake City on the C&D Canal, about another 3 hours away. A complicating factor was Mark had to be on a 4:00 conference call with a client and we would ideally like to be stationary for it. Certainly there were several anchorages that were available, but we needed to have a good cell or Wi-Fi signal for Mark to make his call. We discussed our options and decided that based on time and how long it would take us to get into a location and settle the boat, the safest and known Wi-Fi option was Rock Hall. Denise called to make sure they could take us for the night, and we made our way there.

Continuing on we passed by the most famous lighthouse on the Chesapeake, the Thomas Point Shoal Lighthouse. This is just south of Annapolis and is a good landmark.

East and north of Annapolis, we came into a very busy area where all large traffic (barges, freighters, container ships, etc.) have to pass underneath the Chesapeake Bay Bridge. This is always congested because it is the gateway into Baltimore and two major shipping channels converge. It was even more congested as there were several ships at anchor that we had to negotiate around, all the while dodging the numerous sailboats from Annapolis. Captain Mark comes closer to some of these vessels than Denise would like, but he does try to take the most efficient route around them all.

Once we got through the Chesapeake Bay Bridge we continued on towards the town of Rock Hall, located on the eastern shore, north of Kent Island. There is a huge shoal that extends out from the natural curve of the coastline, but is well marked and has a jetty that keeps things calm once inside the breakwater.

We entered the harbor at Rock Hall and made our way along the channel until we came to Rock Hall Landing Marina, where they put us on an end-tie for the night. It was 2:45 and that gave us time to settle the boat, check in at the marina office, and give Mark prep time for his call. We had traveled 133 miles in good, but not perfect conditions.

Mark finished his call and we had a chance to work on a few other items, including a check on the weather forecast and an itinerary for tomorrow. We are hoping to be able to make it to Atlantic City, and possibly Manasquan by the end of the day. This would make for a long day, but with sunset not until almost 9:00 pm, we felt confident it could be done.

We had a couple of drinks and were too tired to cook on board, so we walked to the only open restaurant near the marina, Waterman’s Crab House. The other restaurant in the harbor (Harbor Shack) is only open Thursday through Sunday, which is probably why we have never eaten there. After dinner we readied the boat for an early departure in the morning so we could be off the docks as fast as possible. Then we turned in for the night.

Rock Hall Landing & Waterman’s Crab House

We like Rock Hall and have spent time here in the past. It has great roads for Denise to get a run in, a nice supermarket and other things to offer. But this visit did not allow for any of this and would only be a quick overnight stay in order to take maximum advantage of the favorable weather tomorrow. Due to its location, we may very well end up staying here on our return trip in the fall. Here are a couple other pictures of the marina:

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Herrington Harbour, Rock Hall

Socializing in Seaford!

Posted on June 1, 2021 | Comments Off

Wormley Creek Marina – Thursday, 5/26 through Sunday, 5/30

From Wednesday evening until Sunday afternoon, we spent some good quality time with our family in Seaford, VA. We attended a baseball game for a grandnephew (Colton), cooked a few meals together, went over to Shannon’s (niece) one night, and played cards just the four of us. Denise got in a few runs in the neighborhood around J&C’s house, seeing deer, bunnies, turtles, and even horses.

We went back to the boat a few times to check on things, and also for John to assist Mark in a minor repair on our galley hatch gasket; using a 3M product, of course! (For those that don’t know, Denise’s brother John is retired from 3M). During this time, we noticed the fireboat was done being painted and was now back in the water.

We also went to check out another potential marina (Mills Marina) that is actually closer to J&C’s and once again attended Joan of Arc Catholic Church for mass on Sunday.

Throughout the weekend we were also watching the forecasts for our planned departure. We still looked good for leaving on Tuesday and made arrangements for Tuesday and Wednesday nights at Herrington Harbor, MD and Delaware City, DE, respectively. We changed our stops along the Chesapeake in order to make some progress north, still looking to be at the Looper Pig Roast on 6/13 in NY, if at all possible.

On Saturday and Sunday the rains came, and brought with it at times some fierce wind. When it shifted out of the north it brought cold weather (55° at 8:00 am) and water from the York River up into the marina; once again the docks were covered. This was how it was when we arrived back at the boat on Sunday afternoon.

Finally, on Sunday afternoon we said good-bye to Cathy, and John took us back to our boat. We had things to do and wanted to make sure they had time to enjoy the rest of their holiday weekend without us in the way. We are so grateful for their warm hospitality and for sharing their home with us. We had fun and hope to get to see them again in October on our way home.

Once back on the boat we settled into putting things away and identified a few things to get done before our early Tuesday am departure. The rain had stopped (finally), but it was still overcast and very windy. And the boat was cold, which means we turned off the AC and turned on the heat.

When we returned to the marina we also noticed that the fireboat was now back on the hard. We are not sure of the reason for this and it was supposed to be ready for Memorial Day. However, no one was around to ask and it sat there for the rest of the weekend.

In the evening, Denise got the last blog update published and Mark reviewed the weather and tide forecasts. He planted the seed for adjustments to our itinerary from Wed. on, and confirmed we are good to leave on Tuesday as planned. We also spent time talking to both our family members and friends, some of whom we are especially thankful for as they are making this trip possible for us, by covering for things on the home front.

Wormley Creek Marina – Monday, 5/31 – Memorial Day!

During the night the clouds disappeared, and we woke up to a cool and breezy morning, with temperature at 50°. We welcome the sun and the cool (not cold) weather. The wind was still blowing, reminding us that there was a reason we did not plan to leave until tomorrow.

After breakfast we looked at the updated forecasts for the coming days. We now have a window of opportunity to get very far north by Thursday morning, and possibly to Staten Island, NY by Thursday night. But then we will have to sit for a few days as the next weather front comes through. Of course this could also change, so we can’t commit to anything right now except leaving tomorrow morning.

The rest of the morning Denise worked on prepping some food for the week, and Mark handled a few financial items for the business, as well as us personally. We also did a few minor boat chores and talked with some of the locals in the marina.

At noon we heard a cannon blast and looked towards the USGC Training Center Yorktown. Sure enough, they were commemorating Memorial Day and made 21 cannon blasts for fallen soldiers. It was pretty cool to see this from afar.

In the afternoon some of the sailboats in the marina headed out onto the York River. There was no organized event, just some great sailing weather and we could see them go up and down the river. While the wind had died down (as forecasted), it was still blowing enough for them to go have a great day on the water. We hung out around the boat, reading, writing most of this blog, and just relaxing. Coming up, we will have a few long days on the water and wanted to take advantage of a lazy and relaxing afternoon.

We have enjoyed our time at this marina, and will write a positive review when we get the chance. We may even stay here again on our return trip south.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Seaford, Wormley Creek

Warm up at Wormley!

Posted on May 30, 2021 | Comments Off

Wormley Creek Marina – Friday, 5/21 – Mark’s Birthday!

In the morning Denise went for a walk around the neighborhood surrounding the marina. The main road (Waterview Road) is a rural two-lane road with only a few streets off of it. One forms a circle for about a half mile and there are houses on both sides. These houses range from older small homes and newer larger homes with nice landscaping. Also bordering this road are private drives that take you to houses on Wormley Creek, or north of the marina, on the south banks of the York River.

Road near marina
House near WCM
House near WCM

After returning to the boat, having breakfast and getting showers, we arranged for our Enterprise rental car for the weekend. They came to the marina to pick us up and 15 minutes later we were at their Newport News location getting our wheels. We had decided to make this our “errand day”. Having been in this area before, we knew what was available and roughly the location of each. With Google Maps at the ready, we headed out with a list of places to go, and a list of things for each destination. First was Costco, followed up by Wal-Mart and then a few other stores. We even managed an early lunch at Chick-Fil-A; Mark’s request – after all it was his Birthday!

We returned back to the boat with our purchases and proceeded to find places to stow it all. Not surprising to us, it all fit somewhere. We then took care of a few business items in the afternoon, and talked with a couple of locals in the marina. Throughout the day we watched the marina move a fireboat that had been in the yard, into the big shed and begin taping it up. They were readying it for painting. Naturally, Mark had to walk over to the worker and inquire on what was going on. He learned they were simply repainting it and it would be back in the water for Memorial Weekend.

Later that evening, we got back in the car and drove to Newport News to Schlesinger’s Steakhouse, a local’s favorite and recommended by Denise’s nieces. We had a delicious steak dinner to celebrate Mark’s big birthday. The food was really great and the atmosphere we very nice. We just wished we could have had more people to celebrate the day with; maybe we can come back here in the fall with Denise’s brother (John) and sister in law (Cathy).

Wormley Creek Marina – Saturday, 5/22

Denise started the day with a run in the area around the marina. This time she started out heading north and running just up the bridge where the power plant has a cooling water basin which dumps into the York River. Along the way she spooked a few deer who took off running, then stopped, gathered a few others, then took off running again.

She turned back around, ran past the marina and further down the main road before turning back to the marina. In total she was able to get in over 5 miles, and saw more deer and rabbits than cars on the road.

Once back on the boat she joined Mark for breakfast and we planned out the day. Our first stop was to the Yorktown Farmer’s market, right along the waterfront. Even though we have been to this area, we forgot how many historic places there are here. In addition to the National Park, there are marked battlefields, cemeteries, buildings, the Victory Welcome Center, and the Yorktown Victory monument.

After walking through the Farmer’s Market, we walked out to the city marina (where we stayed in 2015). Here we saw two Looper boats, and stopped to talk with them for a short time before walking back to our car. We also encountered a gentleman on a Caliber Sailboat, which was similar to the one we used to own back in the 1990’s. We could have stayed and talked longer, but we needed to get going as we had places to go.

We drove from Yorktown to Newport News to a softball game where we were able to see some of our family. Shannon (Denise’s niece) is coach of her daughter’s (Harper) softball team, and on this day, her firefighter husband (Shawn) was assisting as he had the day off from his hero duties. Their other daughter, Macie was there too. We got to watch Harper’s game and talk with Shawn’s parents (Robin & LF) who were also at the game.

During that time, we were in communication with Denise’s sister-in-law (Cathy), and made plans to meet up with her for a late lunch in downtown Yorktown. We left the game and went back to the boat for showers, then met them at Water Street Grille. Luckily Christen (Denise’s other niece) and her two boys were able to join us, and Cathy and her out-of-town friend (Mona) coordinated it all so we could be together for a short visit. This was great as we were not expecting them to be available to spend any time with us until Wednesday.

After our afternoon together, we drove to St. Joan of Arc Catholic Church for the Saturday afternoon mass. We have been to this church several times and we have always been impressed with the Pastor (Father Mike) who is blind and uses a braille version of the Missal for saying the mass. Unfortunately, we were disappointed as Father James was the celebrant instead. We still felt very welcome in this diverse church, who practiced social distancing but where we did not have to wear face masks! We felt liberated!

Since we had a late lunch, we were not hungry for dinner, but did enjoy some cocktails once back on the boat and streamed a movie before falling asleep. It was a fun-filled terrific day!

Wormley Creek Marina – Sunday, 5/23

This morning we decided to use the marina facilities and get a few loads of laundry done, while doing a little bit of future planning. Our check of the upcoming weather now had us putting in place contingencies as it did not look like Friday would be a good day to leave and head north. Since it is still early and forecasts can change, we didn’t spend too much time on it. But it is a bit discouraging when the weather dictates the agenda and holds us up from going places; something those who are traveling in RV’s or cars don’t usually have to deal with.

We also took advantage of still having the rental car and wanted to do a few more errands. Mark needed a haircut and Denise wanted a pedicure, so once our laundry was done, we went to get these personal services addressed. Within 90 minutes we had accomplished these and headed back to the boat for lunch. In the afternoon we took advantage of quiet and downtime and simply relaxed, reading a book (Denise) and taking a nap (Mark). This is what Sunday’s should be about, but rarely do we ever get to take advantage of them.

At this marina we have encountered several locals, who are very nice and hospitable. Most live in the area and either take their boat on the weekends, work on their boats (in water or on the hard), or just come down to the marina. Because it was so warm today, some were also at the pool, which has now been opened and has nice warm water; but it is still a little too cool for us Floridians. All of these people have volunteered to give us a ride somewhere, offered to take us on their boats, or had suggestions for places to go or things to see. It is a very friendly place and we have enjoyed it.

We still had the rental car and thought it might be smart to go out to dinner one more night; we will be eating onboard the next few nights so it made sense. But, we were not interested in a big meal and opted for a light dinner at Panera in Newport News. During the week this would have taken us 30 minutes to get there, but tonight it only took 15 minutes. While dining we thought it might be a good idea to go to the grocery store, in case we did not have the opportunity until later in the week. We drove to the Kroger and picked up a handful of things, including FRESCA (which Mark likes) and is not always available everywhere.

One of the other things we remembered was to purchase any other “bottled” or “canned” refreshments here in VA because as we get further north they get more expensive. All the other states charge a $.05 or $.10 “refundable” deposit on all such containers, but their recycle centers are not always conducive to marinas. Therefore, each one is just a little more expensive for us and they add up over time. So we stocked up and when we got back to the boat, we literally were trying to find places to put it all……but we did.

Wormley Creek Marina – Monday, 5/24

Today was a work day. We both had been putting off some work tasks and we needed to address these important things. Mark spent almost all day on the phone or in web conferences. Denise had to respond to an Orlando prospect that could work out perfectly if they string out their decision making to the fall; how perfect it would be to come back to a project kickoff in late October.

In mid-morning Mark took a break to return the rental car to Enterprise while Denise did a little advanced cooking and blog writing. She posted the last update and began work on this post.

During the day we talked with Denise’s brother (John) who would be returning home on Tuesday from his out-of-town trip. We set some tentative plans in place for meeting up Wednesday afternoon, or definitely Thursday. Of course weather will dictate whether we leave on Friday, and therefore have a short visit, or stay through the weekend for longer time together.

Later in the afternoon we once again got an update on the weather and tried to formulate a plan. Right now it does not look like the upcoming Memorial weekend will be a good weekend to travel and we don’t want to go north only to get stuck somewhere for a handful of days when we could be here with family. We really have no plans; although we would love to go up the Hudson River in NY and be at the Shady Harbor Marina Pig Roast the weekend of 6/12. But, we know we could change our plans and not attend this event; we have too much big water to cross to be on a schedule.

Our evening was spent hanging around the marina and talking with a few of the locals. We had a dinner of smoked pulled pork we brought from home (the last of it) from our freezer. After dinner we went for a walk around the marina grounds and noticed the water level in the creek was quite high. We are on a floating dock and don’t notice it as much when on the boat. But when we walked up to where the marina office and other buildings are, we could see the significant difference against the fixed docks. The docks and water were almost one, and our gangplank which normally we have to walk up, we now had to walk down. Come to find out Wednesday’s full moon is a “Supermoon” and we will have higher and lower high & low tides greater than normal.

Because of the high water, once back on the boat we were able to see over the embankment to our north which is the private property of a homeowner. Here we could see the dock of the second house over from us, and discovered they have lighted decorative palm trees along their dock. We did not see them coming into the channel on Thursday, and only now got to see them illuminated. It is clearly someone’s tropical paradise overlooking the York River.

Wormley Creek Marina – Tuesday, 5/25

We woke up to cloudy skies and a temperature at 6:00 am of 64°; the warmest morning yet. Denise went for a run and actually wore a tank top for the first time since leaving on our trip. On her return, she encountered a man and his two dogs in the marina parking lot. After some small talk she discovered “Scott” lived two houses over from the marina, and it is his house that has the lighted decorative palm trees on his dock. She also learned he is an oral surgeon and moved here from Hampton three years ago, with his wife. He talked about the area and how much he loves his view of the York River and the bridge. When she returned back to the boat, Mark was already up eating breakfast and ready to take on the day.

The intention today was for it to be a boat-chore day, and it was in a sense. We had a long list of inside and outside chores, but we also had to put more water on the boat, which required moving to the haul out area and again using two connected hoses to fill up the tanks. We figured at the same time we could get a pump-out; even though the holding tank was not full, it would save us from having to do this in a few days. All this activity had to be coordinated with the marina as they had several haul-outs planned for the day and we needed to make sure we were not going to be blocking the haul-out bay.

Around 9:30 am we headed out of the slip and ventured to put the water on the boat. This took us about a half an hour, then we moved to the dock for the self-service pump-out. Once in place we started the equipment, but we were unable to get it working. After several attempts we called the marina office and Doug (owner and husband of Pam), came down to help us out. After several more attempts, a discharge of the system and more attempts, we were unable to get it working. He was going to have to get their septic tank serviced and would let us know when it would be fixed. So back to our slip we went, burning nearly 2 hours and now getting back just in time to make lunch. Our morning was shot and we had not accomplished much at all.

After lunch we both had client work to do, then we set about to do a few of the chores on the list. Denise also worked on this blog. After the 3:00 updates were in, we looked at the upcoming weather. Friday looks to be a good day to travel north, but Saturday and Sunday were awful and would force us to stay put wherever we are. Unfortunately, Monday (Memorial Day) is also not looking great. This was disheartening as Denise really wants to spend more time with family but if the weather stays bad for a week we could be sacrificing our trip back up the Hudson River. But to cut our visit short after waiting since Norfolk to see family was also discouraging. We agreed not to make any decisions for now, and would see how the forecast holds in the next day or so. Monday is a long way off for weather forecasts and anything can change.

One of the issues with staying put in this marina is the water situation. Normally if we had potable dockside water we would not care. But without it we are forced to use the water from the tanks, which require filling about every 3 – 4 days. Plus, with it being in a rural area we are limited in where we can go unless we get another rental car. We are looking forward to spending time at John & Cathy’s, and get off the boat for a few days. This will alleviate both of these concerns and allow us to also share some desired family time.

One of the interesting things we have not yet shared about this location, is its proximity to the US Coast Guard (USCG) Yorktown Training Center. In addition to watching the USCG boats go out of the creek each day, we get treated to a few of their routines. The first is at 7:55 am when they play a bugle tune over the campus that can be heard all around this area. Then at 8:00 am they play Reveille. In the evening near sunset, they play “Retreat”, then “Taps” at 10:00 pm; we figured out that one must be for “lights out” as it is officially used to signify “quiet hours”. We have also heard them doing gun fire exercises or target practice. All of this to keep us all safe, and to be there on the waterway when any of us need them. Some reviewers of this marina have made negative comments about these routines, but we consider these minor issues for a stay at this marina. Besides, we love our Coasties and will support them in any way we can.

Wormley Creek Marina – Wednesday, 5/26

We woke up to a nice breeze blowing this morning, but it was warm and we had the AC going. After spending some time on emails and work items, we tackled some initial boat chores, including Mark changing out the engine and generator zincs, and Denise polishing some stainless steel and chrome. We also managed to go see the fireboat in the shed, now all nicely painted.

After a few hours we noticed the wind had died down, so Mark suggested we use this opportunity to once again try for a pump out. Doug (owner) let us know the equipment was back up and running and we were at a good transitioning point in our chores. So, we untied from our slip, and moved the boat to the pump out dock to take care of business. It worked much better this time, and within 30 minutes we were back in our slip.

We then did a check on the upcoming weather forecasts. It did not look good for leaving on Monday, but Tuesday was shaping up to be (possibly) a good day to leave. After a conversation with John, we decided that we would stay with him through the weekend and make plans to leave on Tuesday. If things improved beforehand, we could leave earlier, but it was unlikely this would be the case. We also confirmed with the marina we could stay on without issue.

Then it was back to our boat chores. We finished up around 2:30, then packed up some clothes, food and other items to take on our land adventure for the weekend. At 3:00 John came to the marina to pick us up and 10 minutes later we were at his house in Seaford, VA. Clearly this was a good marina choice for being so close.

We spent some time talking with John and Cathy (“J&C”) before John had to head out to help coach a softball game for Harper (granddaughter). Cathy and Denise then left for Colton’s (grandson’s) baseball game, while Mark enjoyed some quiet personal time at the house. It was hot and buggy and the girls ended up leaving the game a little early. On the way home, they picked up dinner (a pizza, salad and garlic knots) that Mark had ordered. Once back at the house they ate dinner and sat around talking until John came home from his outing.

Not long afterwards, a horrendous thunderstorm came through with violent winds and rain. It was short-lived, but was strong enough to knock out the power. It was just one day too soon; J&C had already installed a whole-house generator, but it was not yet hooked up and the technician was coming in the morning to complete the process. So there we sat with battery-operated lanterns illuminating the place while we continued our conversations. Finally, we all went to bed hoping the power would come back on before the house got too hot. The temperature had reached 94° today.

We will be spending the weekend with family in Seaford, VA, and will not post another entry until we have returned to the boat.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Wormley Creek, Yorktown

Working our way to Wormley Creek!

Posted on May 24, 2021 | Comments Off

Wormley Creek Marina – Thursday, 5/20

With the sunrise now before 6:00 am it is hard to stay awake must past 5:30 am when the sky starts to get light. Naturally, Denise was wide awake and got the generator going for coffee and to turn on the heat. It also may be the last morning for a while that we will need to do this as the forecast is for warmer weather in the coming days. But it was so beautiful a morning that it was hard to disturb the peace, even for a little while.

After Mark got up and we had breakfast, we called WCM and they were able to allow us to come in a day early. They gave us the go ahead, which made us quite happy. Plus, because we were intending to stay a week and now adding an extra day, we got the 8^th night free.

We left our wonderful anchorage and headed out the east river, passing the Williams Wharf Landing, a privately owned waterfront park with approximately ¼ mile of shoreline on 5 acres of land. We passed by the big structure that we had seen two years ago and we are still questioning if it is still under construction or completed. There has been an organization that has been formed for the preservation of this area, and they have more information on their website, here.

Matthews Wharf – still under construction?

We entered the wide expanse of Mobjack bay and then turned briefly up the York River.

We didn’t have far to go before we turned up the Perrin River and headed to Crown Point Marina for some fuel. We did not want to fill up out tanks here, but need enough to get us to Wormley Creek Marina (WCM), and then 70+ miles up the Chesapeake when we leave WCM. The creek was very shallow and the tide was still going out, so we did not want to spend a lot of time here. We added the fuel as fast as possible, and when Mark returned he realized that the BoatUS discount they offered was 10% off the total bill, not $.10 per gallon as he originally thought. He was contemplating adding more fuel as this made it very inexpensive, especially compared to all the other marinas around. However, filling the boat and sinking it down into the water further on an outgoing tide in shallow water was not a good thing, so he changed his mind and immediately got us moving. The depth gauge showed 4’6” and as he pulled away from the dock we saw a bit of mud kicked up in the water.

We exited the channel to the marina back into Perrin River and out onto the York River where we only had 2+ miles to go across it and enter the channel at Wormley Creek. To the left of the creek is power plant, preceded by a large fuel pipeline. On the right is the US Coast Guard Training Center (TRACENT), Yorktown. It was good to see our “Coasties” out patrolling the waters as we approached the creek. Once inside the creek breakwater, we made a sharp left turn past the docks for the private homes and into the creek’s narrow channel that runs right in front of the marina.

Our first order of business at WCM was to get a pump-out. This was easy to do and Pam (marina owner) was down with her newest employee (Madison) to lend a hand and share information. Here we learned the water at the slips was well water and she did not recommend us drinking it. Therefore we needed to add water on the boat in order to have some for showers, cooking, etc. while here. To do this we needed to move the boat around the pump-out dock to the haul-out area and hook up a hose to the spigot that is provided by the city (i.e. is potable). To get the hose to the boat, Mark had to connect 2 of our hoses (one 50’ and one 150’) to reach the boat for filling our water tanks. It took about 45 minutes for all this activity, meanwhile the temperature was rising and it was getting hot!

Finally, after filling the boat with fuel, pumping out our waste, and adding water, we were able to move to our slip where our Island Office will sit for the next 8 days. It was nearly noon and the Captain was hungry for lunch and thirsty for his daily Diet Coke. But before he could enjoy this indulgence, we had to go check into the marina office before they closed for lunch (at noon). Here we re-encountered Pam who was so informative and as nice as she could be. She explained the issues she is having getting staff and thus the marina is not quite where she would like it to be: the gardens need weeding and the pool was still not open as it requires cleaning of the tables and umbrellas, etc. She was willing to go the extra mile to make us feel welcome in this family-owned marina. We chatted further with her as we checked out the restroom and laundry facilities (pay for on the honor system) and how hard it is for her to get away from work; her and her husband live on the property in the house that overlooks the marina.

Finally, we got back to our boat, ate some lunch and turned on the air conditioner as it was 85° and hot. Mark did some work as Denise got caught up on emails, and published the last blog. Mark also rinsed off the boat with the dock water, and made arrangements for our rental car pickup for the weekend. Meanwhile, Denise was in contact with the nieces (Christen & Shannon) and made arrangements for Mark’s Birthday dinner on Friday evening.

We had leftovers for dinner aboard the boat, and streamed a few shows on the TV before calling it a day.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Wormley Creek

Moving Around Mobjack Bay!

Posted on May 20, 2021 | Comments Off

**Carters Creek to Mobjack Bay Anchorage**

Mobjack Bay – Wednesday, 5/19

One of the places we wanted to revisit from prior years cruising on the Chesapeake was Mobjack Bay. We were here in 2019 and saw how large this area was, with numerous coves and anchorages and wanted to return. As we are waiting to connect with Denise’s family, we decided now was the time to go explore more parts of it.

Shortly after 9:00 am we left the anchorage at Carter’s Cove and headed towards the “Rapp”. Out on the Rapp, we were once again greeted with a spectacular day on the water; oh please can these continue for a few more weeks! We went under the Norris Bridge and in no time at all we were back on the Chesapeake Bay. We turned south (yes, south) to go to Mobjack Bay, near the York River.

We passed a few sailboats heading north and a few fishing boats, but it truly was an uneventful passage. Our only excitement was the school of small dolphins that played off the starboard side of the boat as we passed by.

By 11:00 we were turning into Mobjack Bay and navigating to one of the anchorages (Bryant Bay off the Severn River) we had picked out; the one with a reported very strong cell signal. Once we arrived to the destination, we noticed a large number of crab pots in the cove, but they were spaced out sufficiently to allow room for anchoring. There were no other boats here to contend with so we could choose a spot, and had the anchor down by 11:30. We then made lunch and with a good cell signal we thought it would be a good place for the night.

Immediately we were infested with those darn midges again, and we hoped the wind would pick up a bit to keep them away. Mark was getting frustrated, so we broke out our makeshift screen and put it up hoping to keep from having to turn on the generator and run the AC. After all, one of the reasons for anchoring is for the pristine landscapes and the absolute peace and quiet. Surprisingly, the screen worked and most of the bugs were kept away.

Mark spent the entire afternoon on conference calls and in a web training session; thus the need for a strong cell signal today. During this time Denise worked on this blog, and on checking on other work-related items. She also noticed the wind had picked up and that the chop in the anchorage was getting worse. Between Mark’s calls we debated if we should move the boat to another anchorage where we would be better protected from the wind, or should we wait for morning. This particular bay was wide open and the low lying areas offered little protection. We definitely need to move it for Thursday night, based on the forecasted wind direction out of the east.

By the time Mark got off his last call, the slap of the water on the hull in the bow was all that was needed to convince us to move. It would have been too loud for a good night’s rest. So, we pulled up the anchor and headed to a spot that looked to offer more protection on the southwest branch of the Severn River. However, once we found the spot and attempted to lay anchor amongst the crab pots, we did not like how exposed we still were to the coming winds. So, we made the call to move again, only this time on the other side of Mobjack Bay. While pulling up the anchor, we snagged a coiled line which we thought was a crab pot. Expertly, Mark was able to get it untangled, as it appears it was from an old pot and nothing was attached at each end of it. Luckily, we averted disaster and were able to get out of the cove without hitting a crab pot.

We cruised all the way across Mobjack Bay and up the East River to a spot where it curves to the west and offered protection from the winds out of the south and southwest. It is also just past “Put in Creek” where we spent time in 2019. We became adventurous and found a cove across the river from the charted anchorage areas suggested in the Waterway Guide & Active Captain, and chose it for the night. We were far enough from any of the numerous crab pots, and stayed in water no less than 6’ deep. Plus, there were houses and trees around us blocking any wind that would come our way. It was a great spot and we were very glad we moved.

Looking southeast at East River anchorage

Feeling a sense of accomplishment, and liking our new surroundings we celebrated with happy hour, then proceeded to make a “grilled” pizza with ready-made dough we had in the freezer. We have never attempted this before and must say we were delighted with our success, although we have some notes for how to make it better “next time”.

In evening, we looked again at the weather forecast, which seems to be holding for now. We had originally planned to stay at anchor one more night. However, with coming winds and a desire for some time on terra firma, we decided to consider going to our week-long planned marina a day early, if they can take us. Since it was past operating hours, we would have to call them in the morning before we could finalize this change in our plans. Until then we got to enjoy the beauty of this spot, including a half moonlit sky, and a great sunset through the trees.

When sitting at anchor in such great places, one of our preoccupations is to watch the wildlife, specifically the osprey. These large birds are considered fish-hawks, and can be found in nearly any body of water: saltmarshes, rivers, ponds, reservoirs, estuaries, and even coral reefs. They are known for building nests on poles, including channel marks in the ICW. So many places have man-made perches for these amazing birds to build their stick nests, and it is fun to watch their behavior while in the nest. Today we were enthralled with this particular one near the anchorage as it had 2 adults and a juvenile calling it home. You can learn more about these magnificent birds at the Audubon Society here.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Mobjack Bay

Spectacular Surroundings!

Posted on May 19, 2021 | Comments Off

Carters Creek Anchorage – near Irvington, VA – Tuesday, 5/18

Before heading out of Urbanna, Denise went for a run through town, trying to capture some sights that we missed yesterday. Unfortunately, during the run she tripped on the very rough sidewalk and took a slight spill, scraping a knee, elbow and hand. These old town sidewalks are uneven and very unforgiving, but fortunately nothing was broken. She shook it off and continued exploring the Waterman’s Park and the neighborhood around the town.

Recognizing her hand and elbow were bleeding, and running out of places to run in town, she headed back to the boat. Once bandaged up, she got some coffee and breakfast and all was ok with the world.

We were not in a hurry to leave today as we were only going 7 miles across the Rapp to the area by the Tides Resort, near Irvington, VA. We would love to stay here, but once investigating the cost of it all ($200/night dockage + $15 electric, + resort fee) it just wasn’t worth it to us. Our plan instead was to just go over to the area and locate a place to anchor out. So with good internet and cell service at the marina, we did some work, answered emails, and worked on the blog before leaving.

Finally, we decided we should head out of the marina, so just before lunch we left Urbanna. On our way out of the marina, Mark noticed a “buy boat” in front of the condominiums on the harbor. Some of you may know that we are fans of two types of classic boats, the Chesapeake Buy Boat and Trumpy Yachts. This was a cool find for us.

After all the dock lines and fenders were stowed, we headed out of the harbor and onto the Rapp. It was another spectacular day and there was not even a ripple on the water. We pray we will have 2 days like this in 2 weeks when we need to go down the Delaware River, and up the New Jersey coast.

In no time at all we had made our way across the Rapp and entered the waterway towards the Tides. Here there are several finger creeks and coves that all branch off the entrance, each one providing some kind of protection from weather (depending on wind direction) and each one lined with amazing homes. Some old, some new, some small, but most are a good size. Here is a sample of some of them:

We slowly made our way past the Tides resort and further into the creek north of it. We were monitoring our cell phones to see where we could find the strongest signal, and the further up the creek away from the resort, the weaker it got. So we turned around and for the next 30 minutes we cruised through the creeks and area southeast of the resort. Here up the eastern branch of Carter’s Creek near Jack Cove we found our strongest signal, and an area with plenty of protection and space to anchor. It was spectacularly beautiful with lots of osprey, herons and other birds flying about. Our only danger was the crab pots, but they were spread out enough that we could anchor successfully without encountering any of them.

After settling the boat we ate a late lunch and then did a little bit of work. We talked about taking the dinghy out and go exploring, but Denise wanted to get the last blog published, and Mark wanted to take a nap. So we agreed to do these things and then later we would go out on the dinghy.

One of the things we were not sure about was where we could land the dinghy in this area as it was mostly residential. However, Mark contacted Custom Yacht Services (CYS) – a small boat yard near the anchorage to see if they would allow us to tie to their docks. We wanted to check out the small town of Irvington, which is right up the road from them anyway. Another place that we considered exploring was the Dog and Oyster Vineyard; a local winery that also has an inn and was just shy of a mile away. It took a few back & forth calls and voicemails with CYS before we got confirmation that they would allow us to tie to their docks, and actually use their internet connection if needed. However, by this time we had learned that the winery only has tastings on Thursday through Sunday, and Irvington was so small it was hardly worth the effort. Meanwhile we were enjoying the relaxation and the views so we decided not to launch the dinghy after all.

Throughout the afternoon and early evening a handful of boats cruised by, either on their way to/from somewhere (dinner?) or just out enjoying the beautiful weather and scenery. One local stopped by and talked to Denise about the boat. He has been trying to find a Back Cove 34’ to purchase, but there are just not any on the market right now, like with the 37s. He currently has a trawler, but wants a different boat (e.g. go faster) and loves the Back Cove, as we do. They talked a little while longer and she watched him motor off in his skiff to one of the houses up the cove but out of sight from us.

The evening brought out a few other boaters and we watched the local residents retire to their decks or lawn chairs to enjoy the warm and beautiful evening. Mark cooked cheeseburgers on the grill and truly we felt like we were in paradise. This was reinforced when we were treated to a spectacular sunset over the pristine cove that we had all to ourselves.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged Carters Creek, The Tides

Understated Urbanna!

Posted on May 18, 2021 | Comments Off

Bridge Marinas – Urbana, VA – Monday, 5/17

For whatever reason, we both had a restless night’s sleep and woke up later than planned. Denise cancelled her planned run in order for us to leave by 8:00 am as we had a fairly long way to go. Once breakfast was done and everything properly stowed, we left Waterside in Norfolk and headed out on the Elizabeth River towards the Chesapeake Bay. At 8:15 we said good bye to the ICW (mile marker 0) until October when we are on our way home.

We passed the numerous ships in the Navy Shipyard, and saw many containers stacked up waiting for transport in the Norfolk Port. These days there is a shortage of storage space for containers coming into ports with all the consumer demand for imported goods; the supply chains cannot keep up. This is also resulting in container ships being held at anchor or in queue along shipping channels.

As we headed out onto the Chesapeake Bay it was like I-4 traffic, negotiating our way around tugs, pleasure boats, sailboats and barges, all the while staying in or close to the channel. It was actually less congested than we have seen it in the past as there were no Navy ships moving around today.

Once through the congestion we passed by Fort Monroe (now a national park) and the Old Comfort Lighthouse. It was a beautiful day on the “Chessy” and we were happy to not have high winds and chop. This is the way we like to cruise as it makes it so much more fun.

We ran for a good 2.5 hours before we made a left turn up the Rappahannock River. There are several places off this river we have wanted to explore and so we are taking the time this week to enjoy. The weather is really nice now with cool nights in the high 40’s and warming to the low 80’s in the daytime. As long as this holds we can make great progress and get to enjoy some of the sights. The “Rapp” was also calm and we could the beauty of both shores.

Soon we went under the Rappahannock Bridge (aka the Norris Bridge), entered the channel to the Urbanna Harbor and pulled into the Bridge Marinas. This family-owned marina is a little further up the creek than the Urbanna Town Marina, offering more protection and less surge from the River.

As Urbanna is small, this marina is still just a short walk to downtown. It is also meticulous maintained and has all the amenities that a cruiser would want, including cruiser’s lounge, laundry facilities, a full-service kitchen, outdoor and covered picnic tables, great internet, and great hospitality. We would highly recommend this place to other cruisers.

After settling the boat and checking in with the marina, we ate some lunch and did a few work tasks. We then headed out for a walk around town. As it was a Monday, several places were closed (including the Visitors Center and museum) and we learned that because it is before Memorial Day, other places have limited hours (only open Thursday through Sunday). This town is rich with US history and there is a walking historical tour to take you to all the historical sights. It is called “The Museum in the Streets”; similar to the one in Belfast, Maine. We stopped at a few of these to learn about the site (estate house, old Cocoa-Cola Bottling Plant, etc.) and the importance of this town on the early days of our country’s founding and during the Civil War.

We then walked to the Urbanna Town Marina and saw it full of mostly sailboats; there were a group of Tartan (type of sailboat) owners who were traveling together. The high fixed docks and exposure to swells from the “Rapp” made us happy we were not staying in this marina, no matter how inexpensive it was. We stopped and talked to a few locals then took some pictures, and then headed back to the boat.

We found the weather to be perfect and not too buggy, and the peacefulness of our marina (unlike Waterside in Norfolk) had us wondering if we should stay here another day. But, we have other places to go and must be mindful that Thursday’s planned journey will require good weather and we would rather press on back towards the Chessy in case things change, allowing for a shorter travel day then.

Since we will be at an anchorage the next few nights, we opted for dinner out. There are several good restaurants to choose from; we chose the one closest to the marina called Portside Grill. The restaurant has a water view over the harbor with outdoor seating, and a nice modern interior that is warm and welcoming. Due to the cooler temperatures we ate inside. The food was good and reasonably priced, and the waitress was very friendly.

Portside Grill on Urbanna Creek – Outside

Afterwards we walked back to the boat for a short evening of movie watching (“They Want Me Dead “) before we retired for the night.

Urbanna is a cute town and we were glad we came here. Clearly the town is more active in the summer and fall with numerous festivals and celebrations. Their “Oyster Festival” in November is huge and you have to book marinas and hotels months in advance. We would highly recommend this town for a stopover by Loopers, or anyone else.

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Posted in Maine 2021

Tagged The Chesapeake Bay, Urbanna