Familiar Places and Friendly Faces!

Coinjock, NC (Friday, 5/19)
Each morning the sun is coming up earlier and earlier, and today was no exception. Denise used it to her advantage to get in a run along a two-lane highway. Since there were no sidewalks and the shoulder of the roadway had mostly high grass, she did not feel safe venturing too far in either direction. Once she got in 3 miles she called it quits and was still back before most of the other boaters were up.

As soon as Mark was up, we began calling the North Landing Bridge to get a status on the repairs; now scheduled to begin at 8:00 am when the workers were due to show up. We were hopeful, but also concerned that we might be stuck here another night. Eventually, the bridge must have taken their phone off the hook as all the boaters trying to transit this waterway (north-bound and south-bound) kept calling.  Mark even called the Coast Guard to see if they could get us an update on the repairs, and they did call him back later when it did finally open.  Also, the owner of Coinjock (Louis) had promised an update at 11:30 am, and they were still reporting that it could be as late as 7:00 pm before it was opened.  We had made a decision that if we did not get notice by early afternoon, it would be too late to get through the bridges, the lock, and then on to Hampton in one day.

In the meantime, we worked (blog, catalog pictures, emails, client work) and watched the boats who had Friday night reservations pour in.  Several boats did leave in anticipation of the bridge being fixed, and so they took the risk and cruised the 30 miles north.  Finally, around 2:30 we got notice that the bridge was fixed and was back open.  But by the time we could make it up there and get through the Great Bridge and Lock it would be after 6 pm, and we still had to stop and get fuel just outside of Norfolk. That would put us into Hampton sometime around 8:30 pm and near dark, and we did not want to do that. So we agreed to stay put one more night in Coinjock and once again there were boats rafted up to each other, and others who were turned away.

Because of these close quarters, we got to socialize with the people from Miami in the boat behind us, and also with the new Looper boat that was rafted to them.  We ended up having cocktails together, and eventually we all went to dinner at the restaurant as a group (11 in total).  This was a challenge for the restaurant, but the people who run and work in Coinjock are so great and they worked quickly to makeshift an area for us in the bar that enabled us all to sit together (or nearby).  It was fun and we enjoyed sharing our mutual boating stories.  We also talked about the impending rain storms that had alluded us so far.  The clouds were building and we feared we were going to get wet.  Even the local band that had set up on the patio (near the docks) had set up a tent to play under in case it rained.  But the weather held off – moving all around us and never affecting our fun.

We knew the next morning there would be a mass exodus of all the boats heading north, so we schemed with our dock mates about how best to leave. We agreed to a 7:00 am departure and the order of boats to be untied and then called it a night.

Hampton, VA (Saturday, 5/20)
As was predicted, boats began leaving Coinjock as early as 5:30 with the sailboats being the earliest to depart.  We were up early and by 6:15 several of the bigger power boats were leaving and our dock neighbors behind us were up and readying their boats for departure.  By 6:30 looper friends Dick & Sandi Averitt (“Amazing Grace”) pulled away first as our dinghies were too close together for us to leave.  But we followed immediately thereafter and then “Salty Lady” who was on the inside of “Amazing Grace”.  As a reminder, here is what it looked like from our boat:

Rafted behind us

From there it was a madhouse as boats were departing off the dock and others were trying to navigate the narrow channel to head north. At the same time the boats from Midway Marina were doing the same, although there were far fewer boats there.  It was a bit nerve racking, but eventually it got sorted out and we made our way to the Currituck Sound.  Here we were able to pass many of the slower boats and all the sailboats.

In no time at all we came up to the North Landing Bridge; the one that was the cause of our delay in Coinjock.  Once again, there were a parade of boats that were waiting the half-hour opening, but we all got through without issue.

The North Landing Bridge

Shortly thereafter we cruised up to the Great Bridge and the Great Bridge Lock.  The bridge only opens on the hour, and coordinates the opening with the Great Bridge Lock.  Unfortunately, due to the traffic between the North Bridge and the Great Bridge we just missed the hour opening and had to “motor in place” for 50 minutes. This had us reminiscing of the 4-hr waits along the Illinois and Mississippi Rivers locks from our Loop adventure.

Waiting on the Great Bridge Opening

Norma Jean – Handmade boat – waiting on The Great Bridge bridge

Eventually, we got into and out of the Great Bridge Lock, and made our way north.

The Great Bridge Lock

Leaving the Great Bridge Lock

We stopped at Top Rack Marina to fill up with diesel fuel as they are the cheapest around.  From there we cruised through Norfolk and passed the navy yard and the numerous ports where maintenance takes place on many of the ships used by the US forces.  The weather was not great, but it was a little windy and Denise was worried about going out onto the Chesapeake Bay to get to Hampton.  However, we were able to cruise the choppy waters without issue.  The scariest part was coming so close to a container ship when we needed to make a left turn into the channel to take us to downtown Hampton.

Passing container ship near Norfolk

We chose this marina as it is close to both our (twin) nieces Christen and Shannon, and their families.  We were looking forward to spending time with them over the weekend.

Once in the channel we negotiated our way around an inbound sail boat, and motored our way to the Hampton Public Piers were we had slip reservations. We tied up our boat, checked in with the Dockmaster and grabbed showers.

IO at Hampton Public Piers

Shortly thereafter, Christen arrived with her two adorable sons (Colten & Cooper) who got the biggest kick out of our boat.  They enjoyed playing “Captain and Navigator” and were thrilled that we had a big bed to sleep on.

Captain Colton and First Mate Cooper

Christen, Cooper & Colton

Colton & Cooper on IO

Then we went with Christen and the boys to a family event; Shannon’s sister-in-law Courtney, was celebrating her 40th birthday and there was a bar-b-que party in her honor.   The venue was at the Whitehouse Cove Marina where Shannon’s husband (Shawn)’s dad plays with his band.  They are really great and we were looking forward to having fun with the extended family.  When we arrived the bar-b-que was going, the food plentiful and the band was already in full gear.  We got to see Shannon, Shawn and their girls Harper & Macie as well.  The kids danced and played corn row, while the adults talked, drank wine, and even danced a little.  Even though it was cold and blustery, it didn’t stop us all from having a good time.

Mr. Edward’s Band

Harper, Macie, Cooper & Friends

Shortly after we arrived, we noticed a boat that was very familiar to us; “YOLO” was a Looper and we had met them in 2015 when we were all at Baie Fine (Ontario) anchorage together. Their boat was the one whose guest was the concert cellist and serenaded the entire anchorage that night. We later had dinner with them when in Meldrum Bay, just before returning to the USA.  So, of course when we saw there was activity on their boat, we had to go over and say hello.  They were totally surprised and we had a wonderful, but short visit aboard their boat.  We talked of our respective cruising plans and agreed to stay in touch.

When we returned to the party it was time to leave, so Christen took us back to the boat and we agreed to connect sometime on Sunday. It was late and we were beat; it had been a very long day packed with lots of adventure.

 Hampton, VA (Sunday 5/21) – Mark’s Birthday
Today we started the day a little later than usual, and took an Uber cab to Immaculate Conception Catholic Church for mass.  We believe this was the same church we visited when we attended Christen and Chris’s wedding here in 2009.

Immaculate Conception Catholic Church

After church, Shannon, Harper and Macie met us back at the boat and took us to a local donut shop (“Glazed Donuts”) for some breakfast.

Morning with the girls

Shannon & Denise

Glazed Doughnuts

She then took us to Wal-Mart to pick up a few items and groceries and back to the boat.  We made plans for a family dinner later that night at their house in Poquoson, only 15 minutes away.  We were in communication with Christen and she and the boys would be joining us, but unfortunately, Chris was not back from his guys fishing trip and we would miss him this trip.

After we returned from our time with Shannon and the girls, Mark washed the boat while Denise worked on cataloging pictures and began the makings of this latest blog posting.  During that time we were entertained by the young sailors from the Hampton Yacht Club who were out practicing on their Optimist sailboats. We never tire of watching these young children learn the art of sail trim and moving their lightweight vessels through the water.

Optimist Sailors

Shannon came and picked us up and took us to her house (which we had never seen), and we were shortly joined by Christen & the boys. The guys grilled up some steaks and we had roasted potatoes, salad, bread and some wine.  Since it was Mark’s birthday, we also celebrated with some ice cream (no cake) and birthday wishes!

Christen & Denise

Shawn & Mark

Mark’s Birthday Celebration

But the best part of this weekend was watching the four cousins all play together, and spending great conversation and time with these very wonderful people.  We miss them so much and cannot wait to see them in July at the family reunion…..and hopefully again in October when we come back down the Chesapeake. Christen and the boys took us back to our boat since it was on their way home, and we hugged goodbye. NEVER is there enough time with the ones you love!

Here are some more pictures from the Hampton area:

Hampton Public PIers- Veggie Garden

Crown Plaza adjacent to Public Piers – Stayed here for both twins weddings

Colonial Beach, VA (Monday, 5/22)
Today was going to be our longest day yet on the Chesapeake and Denise (who gets seasick easily) was a little concerned. But even though we woke to cloudy skies, the wind was not bad and it was mostly behind us as we headed north. Therefore, we had a pretty smooth cruise out of Hampton and for the majority of the time on the Bay.

Leaving Hampton Public Piers

We passed the Wolf Trap Lighthouse (abandoned – and still for sale), and saw a few fishing boats and pleasure craft, but nothing that exciting.

Wolf Trap Light (abandoned)

The wind eventually died down almost completely and the Bay was pretty calm.  It was then that we experienced the most thrilling sight we have ever seen on the water.  Heading south, we were approached by an entire school of bottlenose dolphin, swimming in a line and jumping out of the water.  There must have been hundreds of them and it all happened so fast, that we barely had time to grab a camera and snap a few pictures.  These did not come out well, but we were so excited we never thought to slow the boat down to get some great shots. It truly was an amazing experience and one neither of us has ever seen in all our years of boating. Even more amazing is that it is not common to see these beautiful creatures on the Chesapeake Bay.  It truly was a “once in a lifetime” experience.

Dolphins on the Chesapeake

After that, passing the Smith Lighthouse and turning to head up the Potomac was anti-climactic.

Smith Point Lighthouse

We settled into the calmest waters we have ever seen on such a large body of water. It was pancake flat and as a result we were making great time.  Originally planning to go to St. Mary’s anchorage for the night, we decided to continue further up the Potomac. We passed St. Clements Island State Park (Maryland side) that is known for being the site of the first Catholic Mass. They have a cross and small chapel to mark the spot, and while it does have limited dockage for daytime tie up, there is no power and not an option for us to spend the night.

It is 90 miles from the Chesapeake Bay to Washington DC, therefore any improvement on time would make for a shorter cruising day tomorrow.  We had identified a few places to stop (which there are not a lot), and decided if we could make it to Colonial Beach, we could always anchor there. However, we got lucky.  We called the Boathouse Marina while in route, and there was some uncertainty that they would be able to take us. However, we called again once entering the harbor and they had moved another boat to enable us to tie to the end dock.

Entering Colonial Beach Harbor

Assisting with the lines was a Looper couple Derek & Lori Gamradt (“Donna Mae”), who was the boat that was moved into another slip to allow us to come in for the night.

Once we settled the boat we learned about the situation at the marina.  We checked in with the owner Bob Bowman, and he told us how the marina had been hit by a tornado about 4 weeks previously, and they were still doing cleanup and repairs.  They were putting in all new floating docks on the south side, and they had already repaired the fixed docks where we were tied up.  However, the warehouse/dry storage windows were still blown out, and a dock that had its roof torn off was still in disrepair.  Plus there was a mess of debris still on the shoreline up to the marina office.  As a result of the construction, there was limited transient slips, but we got in.  The other thing we got lucky about is that the marina is usually closed on Monday, but since Bob lives on his boat in the marina, he was willing to let us dock there for one night.

IO at The Boathouse Marina

The marina office is an interesting place.  It is filled with the usual marine supplies necessary for emergencies, but it is also an eclectic collection of things representing Bob’s interests. In addition to several pictures and models of his wooden boats, an old GULF sign, and other such paraphernalia, there are several old Evinrude boat engines.

Evinrude Engines

Bob Bowman -Owner

When we returned to the boat, we invited Derek & Lori over for happy hour.  We discussed the marina situation and our mutual plans to go to Washington DC.  They told us of a great restaurant to eat at in town, and that should use the marina golf cart to go there.  However, Bob informed us that on Monday, nearly everything in town in closed, but we were still welcome to use the golf cart and explore the town.

Derek & Lori Gamradt (“Donna Mae”)

We decided to eat dinner on the boat as we had some leftovers that needed to be eaten and we didn’t want to waste time going out.  After dinner, we took the golf cart and explored the waterfront along the Potomac, as well as some of the houses in the area.  Here are some pictures from our adventure:

Potomac River from Colonial Beach

Boathouse Marina Golf Cart

House along the River

Colonial Beach on the Potomac

Beach house on the Potomac

Riverboat Casino on the Potomac

Colonial Beach Municipal Pier

Mural on condos in town

Renovations on Riverview Inn

St. Elizabeth of Hungary Catholic Church

The Boathouse Marina

Boat damaged by storm

There is not much to this town, which definitely caters to the weekenders and summer crowds who love the water.  Apparently during the weekends there are so many people on boats, paddle boards, and Jet Skis that it makes the marina a bit uncomfortable until sunset.  However, we were there during the week, and it isn’t quite summer yet so there was no one on the water and it was very calm.

We had traveled over 120 miles today – making it one of the longest days on the water this trip.  By the time we returned from our outing we were really tired and it was dark. That meant it was time for pajamas and some much needed rest.

Beautiful sky over harbor

 Alexandria, VA (Tuesday 5/23)
Because we made such great progress yesterday, we knew that today would be shorter, and it was.  We left Colonial Beach and it was still pretty calm, allowing us to cruise in comfort up the Potomac.

Colonial Beach from Potomac

We passed the Dahlgren Naval Weapons Station where they do target practice right in the Potomac. You actually have to listen for warnings so you stay out of their range when they are doing their “exercises”.  They have a patrol boat that keeps guard of the area and naturally, we were of interest to them.  But once we got past the security zone and under the Harry Nice Bridge we were no longer of concern and they turned away from us.  There were so few boats on the water they must have been bored and we added some excitement to their day.

Patrol Boat near Dahlgren NWS

Harry W. Nice Bridge

It’s a long way up the Potomac but there is some very lovely scenery.  There are really big homes on the Eastern shore, and lots of forest and parks on the Maryland side. Technically, the entire Potomac is in Maryland up until the mainland shoreline, and then (at low tide) you cross into Virginia.

House on Potomac

We cruised north past Mt Vernon (home of George Washington) on the VA side, and then National Harbor on the Maryland side.  National Harbor is a very popular marina and shopping/entertainment complex that many Loopers and cruisers stay at because there is much to do and see.  However, it is still far from downtown Washington DC, and we wanted to also go to Alexandria.  So we bypassed this attraction and went under the Woodrow Wilson Memorial Bridge to Alexandria.

Mt. Vernon

National harbor

Woodrow Wilson Memorial Bridge

We had reservations for the night at Old Dominion Boat Club (ODBC), right in the heart of old town, and next door to the city docks.  We considered staying at the city docks, but they are not secured and with reciprocity through our MTOA membership we were able to get into Old Dominion which is very secure.  The only downside was that we were on an end-tie right on the Potomac River and would periodically get a little wave action, despite it being a no-wake zone.  However, we also were in the flight path of the planes landing at Washington Reagan National Airport, but they were still high enough that it didn’t bother us.

IO at ODBC

Flightpath of Washington Reagan Natl Airport

After securing the boat and checking in with the yacht club, we went back to the boat for happy hour.  Here we were entertained by a group of rowers on the river while we plotted where to go for dinner.

Afternoon rowers

Setting out on foot we explored some of the areas in downtown Alexandria as it threatened to rain.

Old Town Alexandria

We settled in on an Italian place called Il Porto Ristorante on Kings Street and had a pretty good meal.  The place filled up fast and we were lucky to get in, especially without reservations.

Il Porto Ristorante

Escargot at Il Porto Ristorante

After dinner we wanted to walk around town more, but it had started to drizzle and it was yucky weather. Fortunately for us, we stumbled on the free trolley that runs all through old town.  This was great as we were able to ride it and see some of the area that we would have missed as it would have been too far for us to walk in the rain.  After the trolley ride we found an expensive ice cream shop near the boat, indulged in a single scoop each, and went back ODBC for the night.  This is a very neat community near DC and should not be missed if your travels take you there.

Washington, D.C. (Wednesday, 5/24)
All night it rained off and on, and the weather service had issued a flood advisory for the areas near us.  When Denise got up to go for a morning walk, she was unable to go very far. Most of ODBC was under water, including the finger piers off our dock and the entire patio area near the club.  It was high tide and our boat sat almost 3 feet above the dock making it difficult to get off.

High Tide at ODBC

HIgh floods at Old Dominion

ODBC Clubhouse

Eventually the tide began to recede and by the time Mark was up we were able to walk up to the club and check out.  We enjoyed our stay here, but wanted to get into Washington DC and see some sights before it was too late.

We left ODBC at 9:30 a.m. and headed north up the Potomac.

Washington Ntl – R. Reagan Airport

National War College at Ft. McNair

Approaching Marina

Approaching Capital Yacht Club

It was a short 5-mile cruise up to Capital Yacht Club where we pulled into a slip that overlooked the new pier being constructed, and the massive redevelopment effort known as The Wharf on the waterfront.  Due to the redevelopment, a new yacht club was also being built but is not yet completed.  So they relocated to an old motel that also serves as the construction offices for the redevelopment office.  It was a big of a walk through the construction zone to get to the office, restrooms and laundry facilities, as well as the exit to go sightseeing. But we didn’t care as it was incredibly convenient to what we wanted to see and they were offering a special discount rate (by DC standards) on dockage during the construction project.

IO at Capital Yacht Club

New City Pier at The Wharf

The Wharf Construction Project

After checking in with the marina office and getting the lay of the land, we headed out on our adventure.  The first order of business was to grab some lunch before playing tourist in our nation’s capital.  We met a couple of guys who were working the Wharf project and they suggested a place on the water that was just south of our marina (Cantina Marina Cafe). Since they were headed there we decided to join them and we were glad we did. The food was good and the service was fast, which is what we wanted.

Lunch at Cantina Marina Club

After lunch we walked to the Metro station at L’Enfant Plaza and took it to the Capital stop so we could go explore parts of DC that we have not yet visited.  Having been here numerous times before we have already seen all the monuments, the White House, the Capitol, the National Archives, the Spy Museum, the Arboretum, the Spy Museum and most of the Smithsonian Museums. But we have never seen the Supreme Court and the Library of Congress, both of which are located east of the Capital.

We arrived at the Supreme Court in time to hear the 1:00 lecture in the only courtroom – exactly where arguments are heard in front of this court.  We learned of the history of the Supreme Court and its building, and found it to be a spectacularly beautiful place.  The beautiful marble and the largeness of the ceilings and hallways really do reflect the greatness of this governmental body.  We could not imagine working in a place that was so grand and beautiful

US Supreme Court

Ceiling inside US Supreme Court

From there we went to visit The Florida House; a state embassy and the only one of its kind in DC. Although they were preparing for an evening event with the Florida Farm Bureau (i.e. Lobby), they were very gracious and gave us a tour of the facility that includes many pieces of beautiful artwork by Floridians. The house is open to all (those from Florida and those “wanna-be” Floridians) and they greet you with a cup of FL orange juice.  We didn’t stay long as we didn’t want to interfere with their planned event, but we were able to learn a little bit about the place.  If you would like to learn more about the Florida House click here.

The Florida House

Florida House Signage

We then walked to the (main) Library of Congress Building and discovered that the SC was nothing compared to this place.  This is truly one of the most beautiful buildings in all of DC.  The paintings on the ceilings and walls are masterpieces and rich with color and meaning.  We were fortunate in that they had just opened the viewing area into the main library where people were actually doing research (you need permission to do this) and we got to see only a small portion of the vast resources in the LOC.  Several of the other rooms in the library are now filled with museum exhibits and took some time to look through them, but we were still most interested in the architecture and painting in this beautiful place.  There are several other adjoining buildings that make up the LOC, but as we were running out time (and energy) we opted to save them for another visit.  It was time to be thinking of where and what to eat for dinner.

Library of Congress

Library of Congress

Hall Ceiling in Library of Congress

We got back on the Metro and took it to the Federal Triangle stop and headed towards Pennsylvania Ave.  We had decided to go see how Trump had transformed the old Post Office building into Trump International Hotel and see if we could get a before-dinner drink at the hotel lobby bar. It took us awhile to figure out where the main entrance was (not on Pennsylvania Ave), and in the process got someone to take our picture.

Trump International Hotel – Old Post Office

At Trump International Hotel

Once we found the main entrance (at 11th St) we went inside to look around and get a drink at the lobby bar.  We were immediately welcomed and saw that this truly is a first-class place.  The lobby is very open and aesthetically pretty; full of glass and mirrors. There is a very attentive staff waiting to make your visit exceptional and we were escorted to a table in the lounge area. Our waiter appeared right away and brought us water and bar menus that contained drinks and appetizers that ranged in price from the very affordable to astronomically ludicrous. However, prices for the normal drinks were actually in the same price range as our local bars in Winter Park.  We ordered drinks and when they came they were accompanied by a complementary nut tray that was delicious and refilled without asking.  We socialized for a while with the couple from California who sat at the table next to us, then we finished our drinks and left.  We were impressed and glad we stopped in.  Now we looked for an affordable place to have dinner as the nut tray was just a teaser.  If you get to DC it is worth stopping in to see how they have transformed this historical building.

Inside Trump Hotel

Inside Trump Hotel

Inside Trump Hotel

Wine and Nut Tray – Tump Hotel

A short walk away and across the street was “Elephant & Castle” – a place we had been to during our last DC visit, so we decided to go there for dinner.  From there we walked across the Mall and took in some of the sights, and then all the way back to the marina – easily making our 10,000 steps today.

Washington, D.C. (Thursday, 5/25)
We had a limited amount of time to play tourist today as we had to be back to the boat for Denise to have a conference call at 3:00 pm.  Since it has been at least 20 years since we had been, we opted for the Smithsonian Air & Space museum.

Air & Space Museum

Air & Space Museum

It had expanded considerably since our last visit, and many of the things that used to be in this museum had been moved out to the Udvar-Hazy Center at the National Air and Space Museum near Dulles.  Even so, there is much to see here and we spent about 3.5 hours here.  Unfortunately, the IMAX movie we wanted to see was not playing and the timing on the others would not work in our schedule.  The other unfortunate thing was that the place was packed with high school kids on field trips coming from all over the USA. While we saw many of the same during yesterday’s touring, having so many all in one place was a bit too much.  At 2:15 we had had enough and headed back to the boat.

In the meantime we were in communication with our friend Teresea Stiner, who is the twin sister to one of Denise’s running buddies.  Although she works in DC and lives in Arlington, she has run with the group during her visits to the Orlando as well as met a bunch of us runners who came to DC a few years ago for the Cherry Blossom 10-miler: she is no stranger.

So we made plans for an after-dinner rendezvous at her home in Arlington, VA.  This gave us time to get some work done and eat a quick dinner on board the boat.  Afterwards, we took an UBER cab to Teresa’s where we had some wine and cheese and great conversation. We learned about her job at the Department of Energy and her role in the organization, and we got to meet her dog Scout – who Denise fell in love with right away.  Time seem to fly and before long we needed to leave. Teresa took us back to our boat and we gave her a grand tour of our “tiny house” on the water, before saying good bye. Of course we forgot to take any pictures with her….ugh!

Here are some other pictures from our stay in DC:

Popcorn vendors everywhere – What’s up with this?

Countdown clock

Morning on The Wharf

Solomons, MD (Friday, 5/26)
We knew it was going to be a long day to go all the way down the Potomac, into the Chesapeake Bay and then on to Solomons Island, MD.  So we got up early and left the dock by 7:00 a.m., heading south down the Potomac.

Leaving Capital Yacht Club

Leaving DC – skyline

About 45 minutes after we got under way we turned up into Occoquan River and stopped at Belmont Bay Harbor marina to take on some fuel. As all fuel is expensive in this area we only took on 50 gallons, which was just enough to get us to Solomons Island where it would be a lot cheaper and we will fill up the tank again.  It only took about 15 minutes to put the fuel on, then we were back under way. However, this community intrigued us and we said that it might be a nice stopping point should we come back up the Potomac in the future.

Belmont Bay – Fuel stop

Although it was windier then when we cruised up the River, it was still a beautiful day and we got to really enjoy the sights along the way. We passed Fort Washington and Mount Vernon early in day, and then we passed Ft Belvoir and onward to Quantico; home of the FBI training facility and a marine base.

VA House on Potomac

Fort Washington

Mount Vernon

We cruised under the Henry Rice Bridge again and passed Dahlgren Naval Weapons Station, but this time there was no patrol boat to be found. By 11:00 am we were cruising past Colonial Beach and eventually passing St. Clements Island and St. Mary’s Inlet.

Church on St. Clements Island State Park

Shortly thereafter we entered onto the Chesapeake Bay and made our way North.  The wind had picked up and was out of the West, so we hugged the coast in order to minimize the wave action on the boat.  Things were a big choppy, but it only took a little more than an hour before we entered the Patuxent River.  We cruised up river and through the Back Creek Inlet and then made our way over to Calvert Marina for fuel where we filled our tank. Once that was done we only had to motor about 500 yards over to Zahniser’s Marina where we pulled into our assigned slip.  It was just before 3:00 p.m. and we had cruised 120 nm.  We were happy to be in a place as nice as Zahniser’s and Solomon’s Island.

Zahniser’s Yachting Center

Mark does such a good job backing Island Office into tight quarters, and today was no exception. The owner of a Sabre (“About Time”) two slips away from where we docked was in awe of his talents and couldn’t wait to come over and talk with him as soon as we had settled the boat. “Per” (pronounced “pair”) is from Denmark and was struggling with a few things about the performance of his boat.  Mark spent a little time talking to him and then came back to the boat so we could have a well-deserved happy hour drink before getting showers and dinner.

Here in Solomons there are many restaurants and all have pretty good food. However, we were too tired to venture far so we chose to eat at the restaurant on the property, called the “Dry Dock”. Afterwards we went back to the boat to relax and watch a little bit of TV (via internet streaming) before exhaustion took hold and we crashed for the night.

The Dry Dock Restaurant – Showers & Laundry below

Solomons, MD (Saturday, 5/27)
Despite a good night’s sleep, Denise woke up and went for a run, but struggled to get in only 3. 5 miles. This was due to the fact that there is not a lot of area to run unless you go to the main highway, and she wasn’t up for that. Instead she headed out to the eastern end of town where the University of Maryland has their Center for Environmental Science and houses the Chesapeake Biological Laboratory. This is the oldest publicly supported marine laboratory on the East Coast and overlooks a spectacular inlet directly across from the Pax Naval Air Station.  You can learn more about the CBL here.

Here are some pictures from her run:

Waterfront

Pax River from Waterfront

Chesapeake Biological Laboratory dock

Chesapeake Biological Labs

On her return run back through town, Denise learned of a 5k/10k race that was to be held that day, and was tempted to join in for the fun of it.  However, there was not enough time to get back to marina, grab money and get back to the start before the gun went off.

Today was boat maintenance and chore day, so as soon as Mark was up and Denise was back from running, the work began. Denise washed, dried and folded 5 loads of laundry, including sheets and towels.  This required remaking the bed and constantly walking back and forth to the laundry facility in the middle of the marina complex.  When that was done, she cleaned the entire inside of the boat.  In the meantime, Mark scrubbed the salt off the outside of the boat and dealt with a few boat maintenance and repair issues.  During this time Per (“About Time”) came by with more questions for Mark, so he went to his boat and assisted him with orientation of how the Garmin electronics all worked.

Mark also made friends with Bruce Buckheit, owner of a sailboat (“Shenanigans”) who was tied up to the dock adjacent to the stern of our boat.  Although Bruce lives in Maryland now, he is originally from Sag Harbor, NY was getting the boat ready to take it there for the summer.  He assisted Mark with one of the repairs (rocker switch on the electric head) and offered us great information on where to stay once we got to the Sag Harbor area of Long Island.

Eventually, we finished our chores but not before realizing that the entire day was almost done and we were tired. It was time to quit and have our requisite happy hour. It was also during that time that Denise wanted to go walk the docks in search of some (soon to be) new friends who were supposed to be in our marina.

While in DC, Denise had been in touch (via Facebook) with an old high school classmate (Jim Paul) who lives in Orlando, but just so happened to be in Annapolis at the same time.  He had been on a boat owned by his brother and sister-in-law, and it just so happened to be a Fleming 55’.  Jim had already left the boat, but he told Denise that they were in Solomons and they were at the same marina.  So Denise wanted to see if we could find them and make a connection, not knowing if they would even be on the boat if we did.  As luck would have it they were, so we knocked on the boat and made our introductions. Mark and Jenay Paul (“Ravello”) were as friendly as can be, and Jim had already told them to expect us. Come to find out, Mark Paul graduated in the same high school class as Claire (Denise’s sister) and knew the last (maiden) name.  We talked until it was almost dark, when finally the bugs were getting to us and we needed to think about dinner and showers. We agreed to get together sometime the next day and share more information.

We had already decided on pizza for dinner and had already solicited input from the marina office about a local joint, only to discover that Papa Johns was the best place for delivery.  So we put in the order and it took no time for it to show up, making us the envy of others on the dock.

Solomons, MD (Sunday, 5/28)
Since we were busy with chores we were unable to attend mass on Saturday night. So we got up and attended Our Lady Star of the Sea Catholic Church for 8:30 am mass.  We like this church and remembered it from our visit 2 years ago, only this time we could walk the .5 miles to it, not needing a beater loaner car to get there.

After mass we were able to get the marina shuttle (van) to Weir’s grocery store and pick up a few things Mark would need for the week.  There was another couple whom we had met in Hampton when their boat was two slips over from ours, but we cannot remember their names and they had no boat card to share with us.

We returned to the boat in time for a quick lunch, and then we were visited by Jenay & Mark Paul who wanted to learn more about our cruising, and to share more information about each other.  Mark’s (and Jim’s) mom had died only within the last two years, and they had to close the Winter Park house he grew up in. Up until then, they had visited there frequently, and loved the area as well. Today, they live in Dallas and spend 2 weeks a month during this time of year cruising the Chesapeake on their boat, then fly back to Dallas and work for 2 weeks. It’s a great life and you can do this when you are self-employed (he is) and “empty-nesters” like they are.  Because of this, they were able to give us a lot of suggestions that were “must see” places on the Bay, and we have made a note to try and see some of them on the way back home in the fall. Of course we talked about boats and other things non-nautical, and before long they had to leave; they were leaving to go to another community up the Pax River. They were supposed to be off the docks by noon, but had stretched it to well past that because of our conversations. We agreed to stay in touch and try to reconnect with them when we come back down the Chesapeake in the fall.

Mark & Jenay Paul (“Ravello”)

The rest of the afternoon Denise cataloged pictures and wrote some of the blog, albeit she was way behind by now.  For dinner we made chicken parmesan sliders and a Caesar salad, all of which was washed down with our happy hour cocktails, naturally!

Solomons, MD (Monday, 5/29) – Memorial Day
Today was a day in tribute to those who lost their lives in defense of freedom everywhere.  Denise started the day with another run, but managed to get in 4.5 miles this time as she learned of a few new routes to increase the mileage.

Here are some more pictures of Solomon’s from her run:

Solomons Visitor Center

Foggy morning on Chesapeake

House facing the Pax River

Running path looking towards town

Mark got to sleep in and then did a few more boat chores while Denise worked on the blog.

Polishing the davitts

Shortly after lunch we were visited by old friends from Jacksonville, who now live in Maryland and with the magic of Facebook were able to reconnect.  We knew Dave Kyser from our sailing days with North Florida Cruising Club (NFCC) where he was the commodore, and a yacht broker. He sold his yacht brokerage business and had re-enlisted in the Navy (reserves) after 911 and subsequently went to work for a contractor at Jax Naval Air Station. When that contract expired he got a job with another contractor and moved to Maryland.  In the meantime he met and married his wife Ana, and they are raising a teenage boy who is soon to graduate high school. Eventually, they hope to be able to relocate back to Florida as they miss it terribly.

Dave & Ana Kyser

We literally spent all afternoon getting caught up on each other’s lives, and sharing boating stories.  They had some really great ones to tell, especially about the weather; they lost two boats due to hurricanes and know of people in their community who were killed by a sudden freaky windstorm on the Potomac. When we hear this, you can only be grateful for the many miles of safe passage we have have had so far.

Memorial Day

After they left we got right to work on dinner; hamburgers on the grill. Since we cannot grill on the docks at this marina, we took our portable gas grill to where the marina charcoal ones are, and Mark cooked up a great burger.  After dinner and cleanup we prepared for the week ahead; Denise was going to leave for a few days to work, and Mark had stuff to do for his clients, albeit remotely.

Here are some other pictures of Zahniser’s:

Marina Shuttle

Marina Office

Solomons, MD (Tuesday, 5/30 – Thursday 6/1)
Denise had to fly to Ohio to visit her client there, and while gone Mark did a few boat chores, and took advantage of the rental car (both days) to run some errands. He found a Chick-fil-a and had lunch there, and then ate some bar-b-que from Boomerangs, a local place near the marina. You can tell he was “batcheloring” it. And then of course two of the days he spent 3 hours (each) in the car driving to and from Washington Ronald Reagan airport to ferry Denise.

On Thursday’s pick up, we chose to stay in the area (Alexandria) and have dinner near the Airport to let some of the traffic die down before trying to head back to the boat. We went to Myron Dixon’s Pitmaster Bar-b-que; a place that we had heard about before and was featured on FoxNews Saturday show this past weekend.  It was delicious and filling so we brought home some of it for leftovers.  Finally, we arrived back in time to unpack the suitcase and prepare the boat for tomorrow’s departure from Solomons.

We have been here before – and a few new places!

Our days are full and we seem to be moving the boat a lot, so no real time to write these updates.  Here is what we have been up to:

Southport, NC (Friday 5/12)
We left Myrtle Beach at 8:00 in the morning and headed north.  Around 11:30 we crossed into North Carolina and eventually reached Southport at 1:30 pm.  It was cloudy and overcast, but we enjoyed the 38 miles on the boat, except for when we had to negotiate our way around a dredge that took up the whole channel. This was quite stressful.

ICW Dredge

Very close pass by dredge

ICW Dredge

Way too close

Along the way we saw the usual houses that line the ICW, the seafood processors that still try to eke out a living, and even a few kayakers negotiating around us in a congested area.

Old Ferry Seafood -Holden Beach,

Holden Beach Seafood

After securing the boat we went to check in at marina office and along the way we encountered David Pike, a guy who is doing the Loop in his 15’ Dinghy (“Journey”).  He is an avid Pickleball player and has played in every single state on the Loop.  We asked about his sleeping arrangements on this small vessel and he shared stories of Pickleball players who have hosted him in their homes, renting cheap hotel rooms, and even sleeping on the floor of his boat. He is a true adventurer and checks in with his wife every 4 hours when on the loop.

“Journey”

Pickle Ball advocate

David Pike

Later that afternoon we were visited at the dock by the AGLCA Harbor Host Robert Creech (“C-Life”) who has a house that overlooks Southport Harbor. He and his wife completed their Loop in 2009 and walk the marina docks every day in order to meet all the Loopers who have come into port.  It was a very nice gesture and we feel like we will always have a friend when in Southport.

That evening we went to a presentation by Hank Pomeranz (hankd@carolinaYachtCare.com) that was all about navigating the ICW from Southport north all the way to the VA state line.  It was incredibly informative and helpful, particularly in areas that have shoaled considerably and for which the navigational charts have not yet caught up. The rule of thumb is pay attention and stay in the marked channel, even if GPS says to navigate differently. It is for this reason that you should never cruise the ICW at night; line of sight is way too important.

After the lecture we walked into the town to get a bite to eat. Originally we wanted to go to a restaurant that had received lots of great reviews, but we arrived to a 45 minute wait and did not feel like eating so late. So we walked back to the waterfront and to our second choice: Provisions Company – a very casual place with very fresh seafood that allows your bar tab to be on the “honor” system. The food was great and very casual, so we called it a success.

Honor beer at Provisions

Inside Provisions

Provisions Shirt

While there we ran into a group of friends who were delivering a Sabre 34’ from Charleston to Hampton, VA, and who had attended the lecture as well.  We soon learned that Michelle was the new owner, Kenny was her boyfriend, and Dave & Henry were along for the delivery. They had all been friends for over 15 years and are members and sailing buddies of the same yacht club.  We talked about our Back Cove (owned by Sabre) and the Loop, and how we will be in Hampton within a week.  We were invited to join them at the yacht club there, and Dave offered to help us with anything when we arrive.  See why we love the boating life?!

We meandered back the boat and prepared for an early morning departure. We had a long day ahead of us on Saturday, and needed to head out very early.  There was a major storm heading into the area and we wanted to be as far north as possible before we got rained on.

Morehead City, NC (Saturday, 5/13)
We left Southport at 6:40 am and headed north under cloudy skies and cool temperatures (65°). The forecast looked awful for the area, with severe storms coming in.  As a result, many cruisers opted to stay sheltered in place and not leave. However, at our cruising speed we were positive we could make it to Morehead City and outrun most of the bad weather. This proved to be true and we didn’t even get any rain; it stayed south of us the whole day.

Because of the pending storms, there were few boaters on the water, so we had to slow down less than we would have if the weather had been great.  However, this part of the ICW through NC is one big constant subdivision of houses along the water, many of which have boat docks. Most of these have lifts to keep their boats out of the water, but the occasional one or two have a boat in the water that you have to slow down for (“you are responsible for your wake”). Many of these houses are huge and multi-level and had us wondering what all these people did for a living.

Houses in Holden Beach, NC

We had to wait for two bridges to open along the way; the Surf City swing bridge, and the Onslow Beach Bridge (at Camp LeJune) – both of which have very restricted opening schedules and we timed it badly.

Surf City Swing Bridge

Even so, we were able to make it to Morehead City just after 2:00 pm where we went immediately to the fuel dock and added sufficient fuel (100 gallons) to get us to the next cheap stop in VA.

Here are some other pictures from our sights along the water today:

Dolphins near Surf City Bridge

House still for sale – two years later

Kayakers in Holden Beach, NC

From there we were assigned to our slip on C-dock, and we put in right next to a boat we met in Georgetown, SC (“One Eye Dog”).  The occupants were not on board, so we proceeded to check in and make arrangements to use the loaner car to go to church for 5:30 mass.  Additionally, we had learned that Looper friends Dave and Betsy Frye (“Fryedaze”) were in Beaufort, NC (one mile away) and so we made plans to go by and see them after church for a brief visit.

When we returned back to the boat, April and Larry had returned to “One Eye Dog” and we learned that Kimbob and Ellen had left the boat; they had decided they wanted a different boat and were headed to south FL to buy one.  In the meantime they had parted company and Larry and April were continuing on the Loop in their current boat.  We chatted for a while before we had to get showers and head to church.

St. Egbert’s

Fortunately this marina has a loaner car, making it easy for us to make the 5:30 mass at St. Egberts; a church we had visited when we were here on the Loop.  From there we drove to Beaufort, knowing our time would be short with Betsy and Dave. And it was – way too short. Fortunately, we will see them again in a few weeks and said our goodbyes.  We had definitely exceed the 2 hour limit on the loaner car, but since we were the only people requesting it all day and it was after hours, we figured it was better to beg forgiveness then ask permission.

Although we wanted to reconnect with Larry and April that evening, it was much too late when we got back to the boat and we were tired. It had been a very long day, and we were exhausted.  The storm did finally did catch up to us and it rained overnight, washing all the salt water off the boat.

Here are some other pictures from Morehead City:

“Dealer Ship” – Boat near us in marina – We loved the name

IO next to “One Eye Dog” and other boats near us

 Cape Lookout and Back Creek Anchorage (Sunday, 5/14)
With the passing storm, the weather forecast looked perfect for us to venture into the Atlantic Ocean and cruise outside of Morehead City Inlet to Cape Lookout.  Mark has been wanting to go to this area for a long time and it looked like our plans to go there and anchor out overnight were going to come to fruition.  We headed out around 9:30 am and found a beautiful calm ocean and a pleasant day to be on the water. There were a few commercial fishing boats that seemed to hug the direct line course to the Cape, but it wasn’t until we hit the entrance to the harbor that we had to negotiate around hundreds of small private fishing boats that were in an obvious tournament.  It was a mad house!

Calm Atlantic Ocean

Cape Lookout

Fishing boats blocking entrance

We cruised around the harbor and located a spot to anchor that would be a good location for the night; buffered by sand dunes to the Southwest and West.  Immediately, we were really surprised at how beautiful the water was here; almost tropical in color and very clear.  We ate a quick lunch on the boat, then launched the dinghy to take us east to the park and go exploring. It was quite a distance to the eastern side of the harbor, but our dinghy engine (now fixed) worked great and we were there in no time.

Cape Lookout Lighthouse

At Cape Lookout Lighthouse

Mark at Cape Welcome Center

Welcome Center Signage

Boardwalk to lighthouse

Boardwalk to beach

Atlantic Ocean from shore

Unfortunately, we were unable to climb to the top of the lighthouse as it is only open during the summer season – and was scheduled to open on 5/16!  Go figure we were just two days too early!  But that didn’t deter us from exploring the surrounding areas and taking the boardwalk to the beach.  There we explored the soft sand, watched surfers tackle the pretty good size waves, and collected some beautiful shells.  This spectacular park is located south of Cape Hatteras and the outer banks of NC, and is part of the National Parks Service.  You can learn more about it here.

After a while it got hot and a little buggy so we decided to head back to the boat and relax. This time Denise was driving the dinghy and it was a bit of a learning experience; she forgot that it drives with a “tiller” so you push the engine handle in the opposite direction you want to go.  At the same time you have to turn the handle to increase or decrease the speed, all the while doing it left-handed.  It was a bit challenging when you throw in the fact that the place was getting crowded with boats and we had to navigate around many that were bigger and faster.  And on the way back we noticed that it had become a little rougher in the harbor and the wind had picked up a bit.

When we got back to the boat we called some of our family members to wish them “Happy Mother’s Day” and work on the blog post.  Mark began looking at the weather, which now was predicted to blow 35 knots during the night. We had already noticed the anchorage was rolling a bit and it was getting uncomfortable.  Fearing it would only get worse, we made the decision to leave and head back to Morehead City.  Even though it was almost 4:00 pm, we knew we had sufficient daylight to make it back to a marina, or even further up the ICW where there were several anchoring spots we could tuck into that would offer much better protection.

So we pulled up the anchor and headed into the Atlantic Ocean that was now a washing machine of waves.  The seas had gone from beautifully calm to 4-foot swells and choppy.  Our poor little boat got tossed around, and to make matters worse the commercial fisherman were hogging the most direct (and comfortable) course to Morehead City Inlet.  Since they have right-of-way we had to navigate around them, making the 6 miles seem endless.  Eventually, we pulled into the inlet where things were much calmer, but not before hearing a small craft hailing the Coast Guard for assistance; it was probably a very busy afternoon for them.

Negotiating around fishing boat

We continued up the ICW until we found a protected anchorage (Adams Creek) as identified by Active Captain – one of the greatest aids to navigation.  By 6:00 pm we had put the anchor down and shortly thereafter poured a well-deserved adult beverage.  We grilled some freshly caught Mahi we had in the freezer (courtesy of a boater in Charleston) and made fish tacos for dinner. It was delicious and we were happy to be in a beautiful anchorage with no boat traffic, which was fully protected. With no light pollution we were graced with a spectacular sky full of stars and a very bright moon.

South of the anchorage

Denise at Adams Creek

Mark at Sunset

And this is why we do this……

Sunset over ICW at Adams Creek

 Oriental, NC (Monday, 5/15)
Since we had anchored so close to the entrance to the Neuse River, we knew it would take us no time to get to Oriental.  Although Denise was up before the sun came up, we didn’t leave the anchorage until just after 8:00 am.  However, it only took us a little over an hour to pull into Oriental harbor and so we first went to the city dock where they have a free pump-out station.  It was not working that great and it took forever, but we finally got our holding tank emptied.  We then moved about 50 feet into the Oriental Marina slip we had been assigned and tied up for the day and night. The good thing about getting there so early was that we had a chance to explore the town a little bit, work on this blog post a bit, and get some work done for our clients. Additionally, Mark was able to give the boat a good scrubbing as it was covered in salt from the beating in the Atlantic Ocean on Sunday.

Oriental’s slogan is that it is the “sailing capital of North Carolina”, but you would think it was known for the number of still-operating fishing boats.  The small harbor had a handful of these large boats in port and they maneuvered around the recreational boats in the marina with such ease it was amazing to watch.

Although we were the only boat that had a reservation at the start of the day, by afternoon things started to fill up.  Several sailboats came in, as did a handful of cruisers, and we got to meet a few of them.  On the port (left) side of our boat was George and Caroline (“Lydia B”), loopers who now live in Venice, FL, but who are originally from Maine. In fact, George is a former lobsterman and their boat is a Duffy – a classic down-east design.  On the starboard (right) side of our boat was “Stillwater” – the Sabre 34 whose owner and delivery crew met in Southport.

That evening we all met for drinks at the very nice patio deck that the marina inn offers to its guests.  After some socializing and getting to know each other a little better, we opted to eat dinner at the onsite restaurant Toucan Grill.  George and Caroline opted to eat aboard their boat, so we said good night and wished them luck on the rest of their loop adventure.  We hope to see them next winter in Venice, should we decide to take our boat to the west coast.

Michelle, Kenny & Henry

Cruiser Happy Hour

We then went on to dinner with Michelle, Kenny and Henry and heard more of their stories. After dinner we double-checked the weather for the next day and confirmed that we were still good to cross the Pamlico Sound and go to the Outer Banks for a few days.

Here are some pictures from Oriental:

IO at marina

Oriental Marina & Inn

Sign at marina

Marina & Inn sign

Oriental Marina and Inn – Street view

Provision Company

Home mural

No more “Breakfast”?

Porch dragon on home

Ocracoke, NC (Tuesday, 5/16)
It must have been a bit of anxiety about the open water passage on the Pamlico Sound, which caused Denise to be wide awake at 5:00 am.  Eventually, she got up and put on her running shoes to relieve that stress.  Unfortunately, the historic town of Oriental is so small that an “out and back” run was only two miles. So she continued past the marina and ran through the neighborhood for another 1.5 miles before stopping.  Here are some of the sights from her run:

River Neuse Suites

Neuse River

Shop across the street

Morning in the harbor

After cooling down she went across the street to “The Bean” coffee shop and got a terrific cup of coffee, as well as breakfast: a cinnamon bun for Mark and a cinnamon muffin for herself.

“The Bean”

We took one more look at the weather and agreed we would be fine to head to the Outer Banks.  So, at 9:00 we left Oriental and headed out on the Neuse River, and eventually on to the Pamlico Sound.

It was a beautiful day on the water and we were not alone.  There were sailboats, cruising yachts, sport fishing boats, crab boats and even car ferries.  Not a cloud in the sky and the mostly flat seas made it a great day to be on the water.  We had an uneventful 40 miles and it took us less than 3 hours to get there.

Crabber working traps

It had been over 20 years since we were on Ocracoke Island and it was hard to remember what it used to look like.  So after we secured the boat at the end-tie, we decided to walk around the town.  Our little walk ended up being nearly 3 miles once we went out to the lighthouse and then around to the beach side of the island, but we did not go on the beach.  We saw all kinds of cute cottages, many souvenir and t-shirt shops, and even some wildlife.

Here are some pictures from the island:

Entering Ocracoke Harbor

Coast Guard Ocracoke

Our dock at Anchorage Inn

IO at Anchorage Inn

Heading out for an adventure

Ocracoke Lighthouse

After we got back to the boat Mark took a nap and then rinsed the salt off the boat while Denise worked on the blog.  We decided to stay in for dinner as we had some leftovers in the fridge and didn’t feel like a big meal.  In the evening we were entertained by the local sports fishermen who were coming back into the marina with their catch, as well as a few sailboats and kayakers who ventured out for the spectacular sunset.  It was a great day and we ended it on a high!

Here are some other pictures from Ocracoke:

Anchorage Inn & Marina

Community Store

Kids shopping cart at Community Store

Harbor Pano

Turtles in water

Souvenir shop in old general store

Doublewide or house in the making?

Ocracoke cottage

Ocracoke Harbor homes at sunset

Ferry in early am

Lighthouse at morning

Manteo, NC (Wednesday, 5/17)
It is with God’s grace that we were able to leave Ocracoke and cruise across the Pamlico Sound in near-perfect conditions.  It is a very large body of water that is shallow, so the least amount of wind can cause quite a build-up of waves.  Fortunately, we had calm winds and seas that were less than 2’.  Additionally, since it was blowing out of the southwest so we got a nice little push from those waves.  This enabled us to zip through the crossing into the Croatan Sound which is bordered by Roanoke Island and the Outer Banks to the East, and Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge on the west, and therefore offers more protection and even calmer waters.

Bodie Island Lighthouse – on the Outer Banks

As we approached the town of Manteo, we had to go through a very narrow channel that is also incredibly shallow if you go outside it.  It was very slow going as there were 3 sailboats arriving into the Anchorage Inn and Marina ahead of us, and they were taking their time getting their slip assignments and getting tied up.  While waiting in the harbor for our slip assignment, we got to see someone on a rental jetpak – the last time we saw this was on the Illinois River in 2015.

Water “Jetpak” rental

Eventually, we arrived at the dock and were happy that the entire trip of nearly 60 miles only took 4.5 hours. After securing the boat and checking in, Denise did a few quick loads of laundry.  Mark made some calls and did some billable work for his NC client.

Afterwards, we decided to walk around to see this historic town and figure out what we were going to do for dinner.  There was a restaurant that we wanted to go to near the marina that had received rave reviews and looked very enticing.  However, when we checked into the marina office we learned that a sailing club from Oriental, NC was also here for one of their gatherings and their 25 members were scheduled to have their dinner at that same restaurant. But we decided to go by and see what the place was like anyway.  It was too early to eat, so we checked out the menu and decided we really weren’t up for the food they were serving. So we opted to pass and continued to do reconnaissance around the town.

We walked around the waterfront area, trying to remember what the place was like 25 years ago when we were here last. Of course nothing looked the same and we just figured out that was because of our “aging” minds. But as we walked back out towards the bay and the old lighthouse (now Maritime Museum) area we learned that in 2011 Hurricane Irene caused a huge flood in the town and much of the waterfront was affected, and has since been rebuilt.  No wonder nothing looked familiar.

Roanoke Island Maritime Museum

US Weather storm warning tower

About the weather tower

Hurricane Irene sign

Here are some pictures from the way the town and waterfront looks now:

Manteo Waterfront

Manteo waterfront

Waterfront Marina Boardwalk – older section

After our walk around the town, we went back to the boat to do emails, and to do a little more research on places to eat.  We opted to try Ortega’z – A Mexican-like restaurant that had a fresh twist to it, and walked the two blocks from the marina to the restaurant.

Chips & Salsa

Tacos at Ortega’z

Ortega’z

After dinner we stopped and got an ice cream cone at the shop right near the marina office. All day long we watched people come out of the shop with great looking cones and happy faces. The funny thing was there must be 15 different places to get ice cream all within a 3-block radius of where we were, but only the one by the marina stayed open until 8 – thereby affording us a nice dessert.

Manteo is a cute community, but another one of those typical water-based towns that have lots of “shops” to buy things we don’t really need.  Other than the running store and a pottery store (both of which had just closed when we went by) there was nothing more in the historic area that interested us.  Besides, most of it closes at 5:00 pm or earlier during this time of year. We are learning the season here starts just before Memorial Day, and we are just a week too early. This area is known as the Lost Colony and is represented in all kinds of souvenirs you can buy in the numerous gift shops. You can learn more about the numerous attempts to settle this place in the 1500’s (and how it came to be known as the Lost Colony) here.

The one really cool part of this area was the Roanoke Island Festival Park that was directly across the water from the marina. It houses an historical museum and grounds, including a replica of the ship that brought some of the earliest settlers to this community. We walked across the bridge into the park and explored the main building which houses the welcome center, but since it was closed for the day there was not that much more we could see.

Originally we had planned to stay two days here, but after the day’s explorations we determined it wasn’t worth staying the extra day.  Tomorrow’s weather was going to be great for crossing the Albemarle Sound, and the thought of arriving in Hampton, VA a day earlier than planned (after Coinjock) was more enticing.  Fortunately, we had only paid for one night of dockage when we checked in and now we readied the boat for a departure in the morning.

Here are some more pictures from Manteo:

T-shirt in store

Bridge to Roanoke Is Festival Park

IO at Waterfront Marina

Selfie in Manteo

One final note about coming this way:  We were so happy we had a great weather window that enabled us to spend so many hours on the very exposed Neuse River and Pamlico Sounds.  They are nature at its finest and we loved being on the open water.  It also meant that we did not have to go into the Alligator-Pango canal and the Alligator River, whose ugly brown water is responsible for the brow that appears on the front of so many boats once they have transited these waterways.  While more protected, it is not as pretty (to us) and can be full of stumps and debris as well.  Hopefully, we can return on the same route when we are headed south this fall.

Coinjock, NC (Thursday, 5/18)
We probably could have left Manteo and gone all the way to Hampton, VA in one day, except that we were going to have to go through 3 bridges and a lock – all of which had to be perfectly timed. Since the wait time before some of these was unpredictable, it did not make sense to plan to do the 90 miles in one day.  So we scheduled our Thursday night stay to be at Coinjock, about 30 miles before the first (swing) bridge and a place we had so much fun at when we were on the Loop.

We left Manteo at 9:00 am and entered the Albemarle Sound under cloudy conditions.  It was a bit breezy and the waves were 1 – 2’ but tolerable.  This Sound is much smaller than the Pamlico Sound and so by 9:40 we had entered the North River, and by 11:45 we were in Coinjock.

ICW near Coinjock

Bridge before Coinjock

When we arrived the dockmaster put us at the extreme southern end of this 1200’ dock, with half our boat hanging off the end of the dock – even though we were the only boat that had arrived for the night’s dockage. This was the exact opposite spot we were at when we did the Loop; then they put us at the extreme North end of the dock.  We soon learned that the North River Swing Bridge (30 miles north) had broken; unable to make its 9:00 am opening and they didn’t know when it was going to be fixed.  As there is nothing between it and Coinjock, all the boats that had left that morning were coming back for the night’s stay.  Add to it all the other boats with reservations for the night, and they were looking for every inch of space.  They also advised us that there was a high likelihood that we would have to have another boat rafted to us.  We were grateful we had made reservations at the dock and at the restaurant as it was going to be a full house.

We walked up to the marina office to check in and we saw that Looper David Pike, (“Journey”) whom we met in Southport had his boat (dinghy) tied up to the dock. Unfortunately, he had no reservation and they were not going to be able to accommodate even his 15’ boat.  We offered to let him raft to us for the night, but he was going to go across the water to Midway Marina – a very run-down place whose restaurant had closed and for which there is no power on the docks and no marina services.  We wished him luck as he took off and we did not see if he got in or not.

Journey at Coinjock dock

During the day, Denise worked on the last blog posting and cataloging all the pictures taken to date and Mark washed off the boat and did some office work.  First all the power boaters, then the sailboats poured into Coinjock and the experienced dockhands had them tied up and rafting together in no time.  We had put the VHF radio on so we could hear the boats coming into Coinjock as they attempted to get dockage for the night, or find alternatives (for which there are few).  By the end of the day there were at least 40 boats either tied to the dock or rafted to others and everyone wanted to know the status of the North River Bridge.  We too wondered if the bridge would be fixed in time for us to leave tomorrow and make it all the way to Hampton.

Fortunately, we had made previous reservations at the restaurant, as you have to if you want their prime rib.  This is the dish that they are most known for, and not knowing this the last time we were there we did not get it. So we put in our request this time; splitting the 32 ounces, and leaving enough left-overs and another meal at a later point. The prime rib was good, but we both agreed we would not get it again – their fresh seafood is actually better. But their home-made potato chips are what we really love and they are great! (Sorry we ate them all before we could get a picture).

As Mark would put it, Coinjock is like the stage coach stop in the days of the Wild West; everyone here is just passing through.  There is a saloon (bar), restaurant, bath house (showers) and the “usual” suspects (delivery boat captains) who come through here on their way to somewhere else. All that is missing is the “ladies of the evening” and the “can-can dancers”.  But it is etched in our memories as the place we met AJ, Brian and Mike and had a great time in May 2015. (See “All Walks of Life” post from 5/6/2015 here).  This time our memories are just as great and we met many other people, including new Loopers who were rafted behind us on the dock.

Rafted and stacked up at Coinjock

Rafted behind us

Loopers from Amazing Grace

We went to bed hopeful that tomorrow we will be able to leave as planned.

Work! Work! Work!

We have not posted anything for a few weeks because our boat (and our adventure) has not gone too far.  We both have had to go visit clients for the last three weeks, and have not had a lot of things to report about.  Here is what we have been up to:

Jekyll Island to Brunswick, GA (Saturday, 4/22)
Missing her Saturday morning routine, Denise went for a run in Jekyll Island before left and headed 8 miles up the St. Mary’s River to Brunswick, GA. The travel distance was not far, but we knew this was a good location for Mark to sit for a week and a good place for Denise to fly out of in order to visit a client in Ohio.

After we took on fuel, completed a pump out and secured our slip, we used the marina’s loaner bicycles to go to the farmers market nearby.  It just so happens that they were having a Chalk Art Festival and we got to see some pretty cool pictures drawn by mostly young people.  We also used the bikes to do a reconnaissance about the location of the Catholic Church, which was a little over a mile from the marina.  We later used those same bikes to ride to church, and on the way back to the boat, grab a pizza at “Art of Pizza’ for dinner. It was good and we enjoyed having some leftovers to take with us.

Here are some pictures from today:

Island Office on Dock 3

Brunswick Farmers Market

Mary Ross Waterfront Park

Chalk Arts Festival

Chalk Art Festival

Chalk Art Festival Contestant

“The Peacemaker”  at Brunswick Landing

St Francis Xavier Catholic Church

Brunswick, GA (Sunday, 4/23)
Since we went to mass on Sunday, we were free to spend the morning doing whatever we wanted. Since the marina offers free laundry, we took advantage of it and Denise was up early to get it started.  The washing rarely takes a lot of time, but the drying seems to take an eternity. We forget that the commercial dryers are usually electric and nowhere near as efficient as the gas dryer we have at home. So, what started out as a quick chore, became an all-morning event.

Shower & Laundry – South Bldg

After lunch we rode the bikes to the Winn Dixie and West Marine to pick up a few needed items for the week.  It is nearly 2 miles from the marina and we had to ride through a not-so-great neighborhood to get there.  Leaving the navigation to Mark (big mistake) we realized we had made a turn too early and ended up in a really-not-so-great spot, but quickly turned around and found our way back on the correct path.   We finished our errands and went back to the boat for a cool beverage, rest and prepare for the week of work.

bike ride to Winn Dixie

One Stop Shopping for Boaters

Marina Loaner Bikes

(Monday, 4/24 – Friday, 4/28) Denise had to be in Ohio all week for a client, and Mark worked from the boat and there was nothing of significance to report.

Brunswick to Isle of Hope, GA (Saturday, 4/29)

Today we knew we had a long way to go and since Denise had to fly back from Ohio in the morning, we knew it would be a late start to the day.  Fortunately, the weather was good and the airlines were on time, and Denise returned back to the boat before noon on Saturday. Mark had Island Office all ready to go and all we had to do was untie the lines and go when Denise arrived.  Changing and unpacking would have to wait until we were well under way.

We arrived at Isle of Hope Marina just after 5:00 pm, which was pretty good as we had cruised nearly 82 miles in 5 hours.  Of course this included transiting several “no wake” zones on the ICW, particularly around Skidaway Island and Moon River – notoriously a slow area due to houses with boat docks and lots of SPOREs in the water (see Loop post from 9/8/2015 for a definition).

Relaxing after 82 miles

Isle of Hope Marina is a very nice place and many cruisers stop here on their way through Georgia. It has a very large screened-in porch for socializing, as well as a small marina office and ships store. The area around the marina is surrounded by some very nice Victorian homes and what appears to be a quaint town – which we didn’t get to see on this stop. We agreed that we would like to stop here on the return trip and spend a little more time.

Marina Social Porch

IO at Isle of Hope

Restroom and showers

Marina Office

While at the marina, we saw a familiar boat that was up for sale: Palmetto Paradise is owned by fellow (now Gold) Loopers Jim & Paula Stephens. We originally met them in Deltaville, VA and again several stops along the Loop trip.  We were only sorry they were no longer on the boat and around where we could have reconnected with them.

Sunrise over Isle of Hope – just before departure

Isle of Hope, GA to Charleston, SC (Sunday, 4/30)
Once again we had a long day ahead of us, so we headed out of Isle of Hope at 7:00 am and cruised the ICW passed Thunderbolt (Savannah) and Beaufort, SC; places we have stopped in the past, as well as Parris Island Marine Base.

Lots of cell antennae on tower

Boats at Thunderbolt

Thunderbolt Marina

Parris Island Marine Base

We arrived in the Charleston area to a very windy day and fighting a vicious current, making docking a real challenge. As usual, Mark did a stellar job and we successfully tied up at the Harborage at Ashley Marina for the night.  Our usual free-dockage at Bristol Marina (where we bought the boat) was occupied by boats from the “In-the-Water” boat show and they would be leaving the next day.  So we put up for a night at this marina, literally next door. We then got quick showers, and took Uber to downtown Charleston for an early dinner at our favorite Thai restaurant (Basil Thai) and on to Cathedral of St. John the Baptist for 6:00 mass, arriving just in time for the start.  After that we took another Uber ride back to the marina for the night.

Our dock at Ashley Marina

Cathedral at St. John the Baptist

Uber is all over Charleston and is the way to go to get around without a car. There is a high demand due to the City of Charleston University, and so there are tons of drivers.  It has also been fostered by the tremendous growth in this once very quiet southern city.  The decision for Boeing to build their plant in Charleston has spawned all types of ancillary business and the place has exploded with growth. In just the two years since we were here last, we are amazed at how things are changing.  There are many cranes we see building things and once quiet streets are now full of people everywhere.  Sadly, Charleston has been discovered!

Returning to the marina, we ran into a John & Pam Ripple (“Jo-Ela”), a couple from Ohio we had originally met in Jekyll Island.  We had noticed their boat when we first arrived, but no one was on it at the time.  After some conversation about their plans, Mark enlisted his assistance to help move the boat to Bristol Marina the next day, as Denise would be going back to Ohio and not available.

(Monday, 4/29 – Thursday, 5/4) Denise had to again be in Ohio all week for a client; again Mark worked from the boat. However, he did move the boat to Bristol Marina – but not on Monday as originally planned.  Storms and high winds had everyone staying in their marinas, so it was postponed until Tuesday.

Georgetown, SC (Friday, 5/5 & Saturday, 5/6)
It was a very late (early morning) arrival for Denise as her flight was significantly delayed through Atlanta and she wanted to sleep in. Therefore we did not get under way until after 9:00, but that still gave us plenty of time to get to Georgetown – 60 miles north.  Last time we were here, we had so little time that we did not really get to see the town. So this time we planned to stay 2 days and do a little more exploring.

We arrived at 1:30 pm and were put in almost the exact same spot as when we were here doing the Loop; right along the wall.  The marina here is very well run and the facilities are spotless.  They have taken over the abandoned property to the North and are in the process of putting in more boat slips, and relocating the fuel dock. This will be a nice addition and allow them to host more cruisers who have come to love this town.

IO at Harborwalk

Harborwalk Construction

Georgetown Fuel Dock

Shortly after arriving we learned that they were having a concerts on both Friday and Saturday nights in the town square. The main street was blocked off and they had places to put chairs or sit in the erected bleachers.  The talent was mostly regional from the Carolinas with Friday night being sort of country and Saturday’s theme was more beach oriented “buffet” music.  Of course we did not know who the artists were, but it added an element of fun to the weekend.

Concert stage

Concert Festivities

We had been told of a very good Italian restaurant (Diangelo’s) and we were in the mood for such food, so we headed there for a dinner.  The place is fairly new and the owner was very nice. He came out and talked to us during our meal and told us about all the cruisers that come in. He mentioned how he really appreciates the support and that he is going to put up a wall of all the boat cards he has received from them.  Naturally we gave him one of ours and wished him luck.  Unfortunately, our meal was not that great and we were disappointed as all the restaurants in this town are known for being good.

Dinner at DiAngelos

After dinner we walked back to the boat, stopping for a while to listen to the concert. Since country music is not our forte, we did not stay around too long, but we enjoyed watching the whole community come together anyway.

On Saturday morning Denise got up and ran firsts out to a large park that runs west of the Intracoastal Waterway, and then up and down the city streets.  She ran south to the steel plant that you can smell in the marina when the wind blows from that direction, and then eventually back through the downtown area.  Here are some of the pictures from the run:

Georgetown Home

Canopy Street in Georgetown

Georgetown Home

ArcelorMittal Steel Plant

Later in the day we walked downtown and through all the shops; some of them kind of unique.  Mostly, however, the shops looked like many other ones along coastal communities; filled with beachy-themed trinkets, t-shirts and other things.  It didn’t take us long to go through it all, so we headed back to the boat for some boat chores.  Here we had a chance to talk to a couple who had docked behind us on the marina wall the day before.  They were from Long Island (East Hampton) and told us to look them up when we are up there and they will show us around.

In the evening we went to St. Mary’s Catholic Church for 5:30 mass, then on to The Townhouse restaurant for a quick bite to eat and some good food.  Then afterwards we walked to the concert which was just getting underway, but only stayed for a little while.

St Mary Our Lady of Ransom

The Townhouse

When we returned to the marina, we ran into the only other Loopers in the marina that night. It was actually a two-couple owned boat who hailed from Northern California on a Hatteras 52 named “One Eye Dog”.  We had met Ellen & Kimbob Sterrett earlier in the day, but now Larry & April Smith were also around, so we started to discuss the Loop with them.  Before long we were invited aboard, and had drinks to discuss our East- Coast and Canadian Loop experiences with them. Although they had been on the Loop for 9 months, they were still about to experience some of the best parts and were excited to learn from us.  Before long it was getting late and we had to return to our boat and make plans to leave in the morning.

Myrtle Beach, SC (Sunday, 5/7)
We left Georgetown at 8:00 in the morning and cruised along the ICW, leaving the low-country of South Carolina to more forested scenery. You can tell we were getting close to the North Carolina border. Just outside of Myrtle Beach we stopped for fuel at Osprey Marina – a much protected marina with a great reputation, but is a bit removed from anything. Since Denise would be staying on the boat while Mark traveled to a client-site, we wanted a place that had more to offer. Our only purpose for stopping was the great price for diesel fuel ($1.96) – and when you say “fill ‘er up” – cents matter!

Entrance to Osprey Marina

Entrance sign Osprey Marina

After topping off the tank we continued north along the canal-like confines of the ICW.  Here were found even more developed homes that lined the bank of the western shore.  There were homes along the eastern shore as well, but much of this area is commercially developed.  We were on the lookout for the cable car that carries golfers from the eastern side of the ICW to the western side, but we were sadly disappointed to see it was not operating. We later learned that the course is closed and the whole area is being re-developed.

Homes Along SC ICW

Home along SC ICW

Eastern Shore Statue

Eventually, we pulled into Barefoot Marina on the western side of the ICW.  Since we were staying a full week, “Jimmy” the dockmaster put us on an inside slip. This was a welcome relief as this marina sits right on the ICW and the outside docks can be very rocky.  So he located us right next to his own boat, which coincidentally is named “Satellite Office”.

IO at Barefoot Marina

Shortly after tying up we met Tony & Shelley Lovette (“Luv-It II”), the couple in the slip on the other side of us.  Tony recently retired and only 3 weeks ago they moved aboard their boat full-time after selling their dirt home.  Immediately, they offered to take us anywhere we needed, or to let us use their golf cart.  Southern hospitality at its finest!

Tony & Shelley (“Luv-It II”)

After getting settled in we asked Tony if he knew of a good pizza delivery place. He told us that the best place to get a pizza was at “Putter’s Pub” no more than 1 mile from the marina.  It is a part of the golf club that makes up the community for which the marina is a part of.  It consists of single family homes, 4 golf courses, a restaurant/club house and the four condominium towers that face out on the ICW and are the backdrop for the marina. The condos have a pool that marina guests are entitled to use as well.   Also on the marina property is a restaurant that had closed, but was scheduled to reopen the week we would be here.

Condos at marina

Feeling adventurous we broke out the bicycles and rode to “Putter’s Pub” for a terrific wood-fired pizza. This was a great find and we were so happy to learn of it.  It was delicious, affordable and the place was the “fun spot” to be. It is the community sports bar that overlooks one of the fairways, and has TV screens everywhere.  Plus it has week-night specials including Taco Tuesday ($.75 each), Hamburgers on Wed ($6 each), and wings on Thursday ($.75 each).  When we left the place was packed with golfers, families, etc. and we couldn’t help but wonder why all these people were still out on a “school night”.

Putter’s Pub

Weeknight specials

We rode back to the boat and prepared for the next day.  Mark had an early flight out to see a client in Canada and Denise had a long list of boat chores, as well as work to do.

(Monday, 5/8 – Thursday, 5/9)
After Mark left, Denise started in on the boat chores which included doing laundry, and waxing all of the interior fiberglass of the boat.  This was a huge task and took nearly all day to do, but the boat looked so much better after it was done. This also offers it a layer of protection from the inevitable spills and salt air exposure.

Denise had also been in touch with Looper friends Dave & Betsy Frye (“Fryedaze”) who were just a few days behind, heading north to their home in Solomons, MD.  They had wintered in Florida and were headed home.  However, this morning they were passing by along the ICW and Denise was able to take their picture as they passed.  We are hoping to be able to connect with them again in Morehead City, but certainly when we are in Solomons at the end of the month.

Fryedaze

 

On Tuesday morning she went for a run in the golf course community. Although only wanting to complete 4 miles, but after taking a wrong turn at one of the roundabouts it was actually 5.5 miles by the time she got back to the boat.  After a shower, Shelley took her to pick up a rental car so she could do some much needed provisioning, and to get a long list of chores completed.  Throughout the day she hit Costco, Publix, a cleaners for drop off and pickup, and a much needed pedicure.  She also managed to get in a trip to the Tanger Outlets and do a little shopping, and get dinner at a Bonefish Grill not too far from the marina.

On Wednesday after returning the rental car, it was work, work, work, and boat chores.  Then on Thursday, Denise rode her bike all around the shops that line the eastern shore of the ICW – and where the Barefoot LANDING Marina is.  We were so glad that we had chosen to stay on the western side; even though there are more restaurants on the eastern shore.  It really is like a tourist shopping mecca with more t-shirt shops, souvenir shops, a House of Blues, and a performance theater.

Barefoot Landing

Barefoot Landing

Barefoot Landing store

During the week it was learned that upcoming events included “Bike” week, and the preparations had already begun.  Vendor tents and tractor trailers were lining the streets and the shopping area on the eastern shore.  By Thursday night the sound of bikes were all around and it was reminiscent of the day s we lived on High Flight (sailboat) in Daytona Beach.

Also on Wednesday, the “Bistro” restaurant at the marina had their soft opening, so Denise decided to give it a try on Thursday evening.  She went with two other women visiting in a boat tied up on the outside dock.  They were joined by Jimmy (Dockmaster) who, come to find out was a trained chef and had lived in Palm Beach and other parts of FL for many years. The food was very good, but the service was slow – to be expected when a new restaurant opens.

Eventually, Mark made it back from Canada despite a long layover in Atlanta, and he returned safely back to the boat around 11:30 pm.

Here are some other pictures from the Myrtle Beach area:

Barefoot Marina from Bridge

Across the ICW

Across the ICW

Our Latest Adventure!

Tuesday, April 18th

It was 2 years and 5 days ago that we set out on the Great Loop adventure then completed it on April 20th of last year.  So it is only fitting that we head out on our next adventure during this same time period.

As with all boating adventures, you must remain flexible and be ready to change plans, and this trip is no exception.  We had started out on April 3rd cruising with friends Tim & Karen Nicholson aboard their boat (TiKa2), but our work schedules and their travel plans had us sitting in marinas longer than desired, or bypassing intended locations in order to keep moving north. As a result we made an early decision to adjust our mutual itineraries and abandon the trip together.  They have decided to head to South Florida and on to the Bahamas, and we decided to relaunch Island Office (put up on the hard for the FL summer) and take her to her birth place; Maine!  We wish Tim & Karen all the luck on their trip, and yes, we are still good friends.

So at 6:50 am we untied the dock lines at Harbortown Marina and headed north up the ICW. It was a spectacular morning and we enjoyed all that nature threw at us.

On our way

Leaving Harbortown – Barge Canal

There were tons of birds, dolphins, and manatee all greeting us along the way.  We love seeing the fisherman along the banks of the Haulover Canal near Titusville, and even the bridge repair guys.

Canal Bridge Workers

Canal Bridge Workers

The beauty of Mosquito Lagoon and the Canaveral National Seashore in the morning is something everyone should see either by boat, kayak or paddleboard – if you are so daring.  It is also one of the best places to watch a rocket launch from KSC (Kennedy Space Center) – and there was one this morning…but we were too far north to see it by the time it went off. We saw more manatee today then I think we have ever seen in all our trips combined!  Literally hundreds along this part of the ICW.  We also were grateful that it was not yet May 1st when the entire ICW all the way to St. Augustine becomes a no-wake zone to protect these creatures.

Manatee in ICW

Our travels took us past familiar spots in New Smyrna Beach, Daytona, Ormond by the Sea, and eventually Palm Coast, where we pulled in for just enough fuel to get us to Brunswick, Georgia. Here are some sights from along the way:

Indian Mound Fish Camp

ICW Sandbar near NSB

Ft Matanzas

Eventually we entered the St. Augustine area where we encountered several Custom Border Protection boats preparing for a training exercise. They were headed out to sea with a boat in tow that was full of “dummy” passengers that had obviously been used for target practice. If was kind of funny to watch them go through the Bridge of Lions with the dummy boat in tow, and immediately zipped out into the inlet and off they went. Unfortunately, we were not able to get a good photo of this as we didn’t want to invite them to come visit us!

Custom Border Protection Boats

We negotiated our way through the inlet, passed the dredging equipment and barges that were working to eliminate the shoals created by last October’s Hurricane Matthew.  At the same time, the sand was being pumped up onto the north shore beach which saw so much erosion from the same storm.  All along the ICW today we saw remnants of boats and destroyed docks that were impacted by Matthew.

Matthew Wreckage in ICW

Finally we arrived in the Guana River Wildlife Management Area and our favorite anchorage just north of St. Augustine.  It is near a place called Pine Island (not as big as the Pine Island on the West Coast), and it is so beautiful.  We chose a location right near where we had anchored two years ago and had the place almost to ourselves. There were a few small fishing boats in the marshland, but they left after a while.

Pine Island Anchorage

Fishing Boat in Anchorage

Only one other boat came in to anchor for the night; an old boat named “Lady Catherine” whom we had passed twice earlier in the day.  They stayed close to the ICW and all we could see was their light once it got dark.

Lady Catherine

Here we saw a spectacular sunset and saw so many incredible birds. It was a long day and we arrive so late that we immediately prepared dinner (hamburgers on the grill) and called it a day!

Sunset at Pine Island

Wednesday, April 19th

Denise was up early and admired the quiet beauty of nature, but eventually cranked the generator to get some coffee going and to charge all the electronics (phones, iPads, Computers, etc.). At 7:30 we pulled up anchor and headed north through Palm Valley, Ponte Vedra and Jacksonville where we swear there are triple the number of homes with docks on the ICW then there were 2 years ago.  And here we saw lots of evidence of damage by Matthew as well with many docks being repaired or waiting on repair.

We crossed the St. Johns River and cruised north, grateful for the Active Captain posts that warned of storm-caused shoaling along the way. We must admit however, that many of these have now been corrected due to the hard work of the Army Corps of Engineers (COE).  Your tax dollars at work!

Normally we would have stopped in Fernandina Beach as it is one of our favorite towns to visit.  However, they were severely impacted by Matthew and they have limited space. They do have their mooring field back up and running, but they are still not really operational.  It was obvious as we approached that much work is still required, so we continued on to our planned destination Cumberland Island National Seashore.

Matthew Damage in Fernandina

City Marina Docks

It was only 50 miles from the Pine Island anchorage so we arrived early and in time for lunch.  We stopped in a great spot in the northern part of the anchorage – far from the other boats and right across the dock for the Greyfield Inn – which is an historic inn on the island.  We had dinner reservations for the evening at the Inn, and so after 6 pm we were allowed to tie up to their dock (sans electricity).

Cumberland Island Anchorage

Our plans were to take the dingy to the Park entrance and spend the afternoon exploring the beach and park.  This island is known for the horses that run wild – and they are all over the place – so we were hoping to see some. However, after launching the dinghy and starting to head out, the dinghy engine control handle broke.  We had already untied from our boat and the current immediately began separating us from the boat.  We rushed to quickly break out the oars and eventually row back to the boat.  After a bit of trouble-shooting, Mark determined a repair part was needed and it was not something that could be fixed today. Therefore, we abandoned our plans to visit the park, and grateful that we would be moving our boat to the dock in order to go to dinner.  The thought of having to row with Mark in a suit jacket and Denise in a dress was like something that really only happens in movies.

About this time we were visited by a Looper we met in Apalachicola in the fall of 2015.  Their names are Jonathan Arthur and Rosa Cross (“Salty”) and they came by in their 26 ft C-Dory. We were delighted to see them and reconnect.  We had read on the AGLCA forum that they started the Loop again (Jon’s 3rd Loop and Rosa’s 2nd) and they were proudly flying their Platinum burgee (2+ times a Looper).   We chatted for a while, discussed the dinghy engine issue, and then they were off.  They were headed to another part of the island they can get into as their boat draft is less than a foot. It was fun to see this little boat zip away.  By the way, Jonathan owns a fish camp/marina (“Honest John’s Fish Camp”) in Melbourne Beach. It is located on the eastern side of the ICW, just North of Sebastian Inlet. If you are ever in the neighborhood stop by and say hi!

Soon it was time to get showers and prep for dinner.  We moved the boat over to the Inn’s dock, finished getting ready, and then had a drink on board before heading up to the Inn.  Although it is a short walk from the dock, the staff at the inn drove us there as the path is very sandy and in some places loaded with horse droppings. Yes, the horses are everywhere – so they claim – but we never saw any the whole time we were here.

IO at Greyfield Inn Dock

Dinner at the Greyfield Inn

The significance of the Greyfield Inn is that it was built in 1900 by Tom & Lucy Carnegie for their daughter – as a wedding gift.  The Inn is still owned by the Carnegie family and was made more famous 1996 when John F. Kennedy Jr. married Carolyn Bessette inside the island’s First African Baptist Church. It is an all-inclusive get-away with very limited cell service and no internet (on purpose). You can learn more about it here.

Cumberland Island walk to house

Greyfield Inn

We received a brief tour of the house and were oriented on the procedures for drinks at the bar, and dinner, which is not served until 7:30 pm.  In the meantime we were welcome to enjoy the living room where hors d’oeuvres were served, as well as the library and beautiful front porch.  We chose to get a bottle of wine, took the first pours to the porch and conversed with a nice couple from Bermuda who were visiting in advance of a meeting on Amelia Island later in the week. We also met a young couple from Los Angeles and briefly chatted with them. The inn and surrounding cottages were sold-old for the evening and they were expecting 30 guests for dinner.

When it was time, they ring the chimes in old school fashion and everyone makes their way to the dining room – really two rooms adjacent to each other. Both rooms are set up with large dining tables that accommodate multiple guests. However, we were seated at the only table that was not part of the big group. Denise felt like she had been banished to the kids table.  The main waiter introduced the menu to all in the dining room and they began to serve.  It was an evenly paced meal with a salad, entrée and dessert.  The food was delicious and we were served sheepshead fish that was very fresh, while most of the salad ingredients came from the on-site garden.  We finished our bottle of wine in the process and got a ride back to the boat at nearly 10 pm.  While we enjoyed our dinner and glad we got to experience this, we both agreed that it was not worth doing it a second time.  We will come back to Cumberland Island, but very doubtful we will come back to Greyfield.

St. Mary’s from Cumberland Island

Thursday, April 20th

We had to be off the dock by 9:00 am and had already decided that we would make an early start of the day even though we didn’t have far to go. We were headed to Jekyll Island and figured it would take us about 90 minutes to get there.  The situation was that Denise had a web conference call she had to be on, and Cumberland has no Wi-Fi internet access.  While we could have used our hot-spot, we didn’t want to burn the data for this call as we had no idea how long it would last.  So we cruised out of the anchorage, passing St. Mary’s submariner base and a few other interesting sights along the way.  We headed across St. Andrews Sound – which was very calm and mostly flat, and into Jekyll Harbor Marina.  We have been here before and we know one of the owners (Dave Blue) who also owns the marina in Jacksonville (Ortega) where we used to keep our sailboat when we lived there.

IO at Jekyll Harbor Marina

As glamorous as our life sounds, sometimes we do have to pay the bills, so today was a work day. We had to hunker down and do work for our clients. Denise did find time to catalog some pictures and write a bit of the blog post, and Mark got some tech support and eventually a repair part ordered for the dinghy engine handle.  He also made reservations for marina’s in the coming days and weeks. Together we also decided to investigate a place for dinner in the Beach Village – a short ½ mile walk from the marina.

The marina here is really nice and we planned to stay two nights.  The amenities include a pool, big bar-b-que grill & picnic tables, and an on-site restaurant. The staff here is really great and they have a bicycles and a golf cart you can use (for free) for up to 1.5 hr at a time.

Marina Office

Marina Pool

Marina Bar-B-Que grill

The restaurant used to have a terrible reputation, but when the lease ran out new tenants were installed, and now it is supposed to be great. However, we had also read about a bar-b-que place in the Jekyll Market and Deli located in the Beach Village, so we decided to walk there for dinner. (Obviously Mark won the coin toss for the day).

Jeykll Market & Deli

The Bar-b-que place is called the “Love Shack” and it was well worth the half mile walk from the marina. They have fried shrimp, & oysters, Brunswick stew, chicken & wings, pulled pork, cole slaw, fries, sweet potato fries and green beans on the menu. That is it!  It is a no-frills place. You place your order, pick it up and go sit at one of the handful of tables in the Market.  The food was delicious and very affordable.  We both got the pulled-pork and loved it.  Also, because we ordered water only – we got some pretty cool to-go cups too!

Waiting for the BarBQue

Love Shack Souvenir

After dinner we walked around the Village and out to see the beach for some great pictures.  Then we rushed back to the boat in time for the killer sunset!

At the beach at Jekyll Island

Sunset from Jekyll Harbor Marina

Because they have cable tv here, we were finally able to get caught up on news and weather; learning that tropic storm Arlene had formed in the Atlantic, but would not impact us. Whew!

Friday, April 21st

With the best of intentions, Denise was going to get up and go for a much-wanted run. However, she forgot to get all the stuff out the night before and she realized too late that some of it was underneath the bed that Mark was sleeping in. So instead she made a pot of coffee and utilized the great Wi-Fi to get some emails done.

We spent the morning working and confirming future marina reservations in Brunswick, and in getting more work done.  Before we knew it, it was lunch time.  We grabbed a quick sandwich and wrapped up a few things on the boat, and headed out for an adventure.

As luck would have it, the marina golf cart was available and we decided to take advantage of it.  Off we were to see the sites around the Island. We drove first to the historic district of Jekyll Island where the Jekyll Island Club Resort is located.  There are numerous cottages, a sea turtle center, the main resort, and even a croquet court.

Jekyll Island Club Resort

Then we rode all around the northern and eastern part of the island, stopping long enough to take a few pictures of the Atlantic Ocean. The wind was really blowing out of the south, and the whitecaps on the waves showed how confused the seas were.  It would not have been a good day to be offshore. Afterwards, we drove to the southern part of the Island and eventually back to the marina, getting back right at the 1.5 hour mark. It was a great way to see the island and all it has to offer, and we are glad we did this.

Golf Cart Ride

Around the marina, there is always a boater who you stop and chat with, and here is no exception. Denise was curious about the house boat (“Maria”) across the dock from us and eventually struck up a conversation with its owner, Annette. Her boat is very cute with a nice size galley and sleeping room for 6.  Of course this vessel never leaves its slip (nor could it because the steering station has been removed), but has been her home for many years. Her cat “little bit” is a friendly guy and has tried to get on our boat several times. Fortunately, it is well behaved and all you have to do is say NO and it turns around and leaves.

Houseboat “MARIA”

Based on reviews by some of the other boaters we talked to today, we decided to try out the marina restaurant (Zachry’s River House) for dinner.  We were not disappointed, but did have a little trouble finding a seat. The place was really crowded when we arrived at 6:30.  Fortunately, we found a spot outside on the porch and we were glad we ended up there instead of inside. We got to see the spectacular view of the marina with the ICW as a backdrop.  There was also a local musician playing on the porch and he was really quite talented. He played the acoustical guitar and the saxophone and had a terrific voice.  It was the perfect ending to a great day!

Zachry’s River House Restaurant

View from restaurant

Back at the boat, there was this blog to get done and posted, and tomorrow we will move on to Brunswick, Georgia and pick up the next post from there.

Crossing our wake!

Yesterday at 10:10 am we entered the Barge Canal off the ICW and crossed our wake; completing the journey we started 373 days before.

Here is an update of our last two days on the Great Loop:

Tuesday (4/19) – Serenity Island – ICW, FL – When we bailed on going to the Bahamas and decided to take the slow road home, we had no real itinerary; we knew we would just keep heading north.  We thought we would want to spend more time in Vero Beach as we really like this area.  But something was calling us home so we made the decision to leave today and spend one more night on this great adventure, even though we could easily make it all the way home in 6 hours.

So we said goodbye to the VBYC and the staff at this wonderful club. They were super nice and the club has a comfortable ambiance, along with some pretty good food. We will likely stay here again sometime in the future, like next January when we plan to take the boat to Ft. Myers.

VBYC

VBYC

VBYC dining room

VBYC dining room

Before we got underway, Denise got in a quick run up the bridge and back, and snapped some pictures of the marina and surrounding park area. Here are some pictures to share:

VB Mooring field from bridge

VB Mooring field from bridge

Sunrise from the bridge

Sunrise from the bridge

ICW from bridge

ICW from bridge

MacWillilam park

MacWillilam park

Lagoon at MacWilliam park

Lagoon at MacWilliam park

We also had an opportunity to meet a Looper couple who came into the south docks of the City Marina on Monday night. Tom & Connie Rogers were on a Motorcat 30’ catamaran (“rPad”) that can be trailered and which they have taken through many parts of the eastern US, but have not done the entire loop. They are going to trailer the boat to the headwaters of the Mississippi River in Minnesota later this summer and cruise the rivers which will enable them to complete their Loop adventure.  We exchanged boat cards and wished each other luck – then returned to the boat.

Loopers "rPad"

Loopers “rPad”

We watched others leave the City Marina and VBYC, and then we too untied the lines and headed north.

Here are some other pictures we took during our stay in Vero Beach:

VBYC "Guest"

VBYC “Guest”

Morning in the Vero Bch mooring field

Morning in the Vero Beach mooring field

"Divemaster" near us

“Divemaster” near us

South docks VB City Marina

South docks VB City Marina

City Marina fuel dock

City Marina fuel dock

It was a nice day to be on the water and we had a good time enjoying all the sights along the way. We had picked out two potential anchorages to stay at for our last night on the Loop. The first one was near the Sebastian Inlet and looked to be a good spot.  When we got up to it we found the holding good and liked its close proximity to the Atlantic Ocean.  But with the wind blowing out of the east, we did not see ourselves spending any time on the beach.  We also didn’t like how close it was to a public park and boat ramp, so we decided not to stay and headed north past Sebastian Inlet and past Grant Farm Island.

Sebastian Inlet State Rec Park

Sebastian Inlet State Rec Park – 1st anchorage

Grant Farm Island

Grant Farm Island

The second anchorage (Serenity Island) proved to be a terrific little spot and one we will most likely come back to if weather conditions are favorable. Just south of Melbourne City marina (where we have stayed in the past), there are a series of “spoil” mangrove islands that make for great anchorages.  One in particular got a great review on Active Captain so we headed to it.  We found one (sail) boat already in the anchorage, but was able to secure a spot a little closer to the shore and in front of them.  Shortly thereafter another sailboat came in and anchored north of us.  Serenity Island has a small sandbar to its south and offered great protection for winds out of the east, so we felt very comfortable here.

IO at Serenity Island

IO at Serenity Island

We launched the dinghy and went to explore the island, unexpectedly finding a ton of small shells including oyster and scallop shells. We collected a few to bring home and walked through some of the mangrove paths until it got too think for us to continue.  We then returned to the dinghy and took it all around the island.  We saw so many nests for osprey and herons it was amazing; this place was like a bird sanctuary.  We took some pictures but they just cannot convey the beauty and how very connected to nature we felt. It was awesome!

IO and dinghy at Serenity Island Anchorage

IO and dinghy at Serenity Island Anchorage

Fish cleaning table

Fish cleaning table

Southeast shore - Serenity Island

Southeast shore – Serenity Island

Exploring Serenity Island

Exploring Serenity Island

Making our way thru mangroves

Making our way thru mangroves

Birds near Serenity Island

Birds near Serenity Island

Osprey Nest on Serenity Island

Osprey nest on Serenity Island

Drying his wings

Drying his wings

We then cruised in the dinghy to the small sailboat that came in after us. Here we met “Noel” who was very friendly and talked us about the island. He was a local and had been coming here for 20+ years. He told us the island’s sandbar used to be much greater, but it has slowly eroded over time due to storms and large wakes from boaters.  He told us about his home-made dinghy and how his old sailboat was new to him and he was trying to get it in shape.

Noel's boat

Noel’s boat

We enjoyed our chats then moved on to the first sailboat in the anchorage, only they were not in their cockpit or appeared available for socializing. So we respected their privacy and returned to our boat in time for happy hour and to see a fourth boat pull into the anchorage. Then all of us (3 sailboats plus us) settled in for the night.  Mark fired up the bar-b-que and grilled some great steaks while Denise made rice and a salad. We then watched a terrific sunset. It was a perfect ending to a perfect day, and the last night for us on the Loop.

Mark serving up the steak

Mark serving up the steak

Sunset at Serenity Is anchorage

Sunset at Serenity Island anchorage

Denise - Serenity Island sunset

Denise – Serenity Island sunset

Moon rising over Serenity Island

Moon rising over Serenity Island

Wednesday (4/20) – Harbortown Marina – Merritt Island, FL – At an anchorage we have a tendency to go to bed early and last night was pretty much on par.  The downside is we wake up really early.  For Denise it was with the birds (literally) who started the cacophony in the wee hours and continued to get louder until the sun came up. The cool thing was when they all came down out of the casuarina (aka Australian pine) trees and went down to the water to feed.

Wading bird at sunrise

Wading bird at sunrise

Although the boat swung a little during the night, it was mostly due to the current as there was little wind. The water was very calm in the morning and if not for the birds we would have said peaceful.  Not wanting to disturb nature, Denise resisted turning on the generator so she could make coffee.  However, once Mark was up, the first sailboat pulled out, and the others were visible in their cockpit, she turned it on.  Enjoying that first cup was made even more enjoyable by watching the dolphins frolicking in the water nearby. It just doesn’t get any better than this!

Once we had finished breakfast we pulled up the anchor and headed north for our final day on the Loop. We passed by Melbourne City Marina and the Melbourne bridge – one that Denise has run over in a half marathon.

Passing Melbourne

Passing Melbourne

Melbourne Bridge

Melbourne Bridge

Dophins near Melbourne Bridge

Dolphins near Melbourne Bridge

We then cruised north in the ICW encountering several boaters along the way. Some were boats we had passed the day before, including a few sailboats. Eventually we came upon some Loopers on a Nordic Tug called “Lee Loo”.  We had seen and heard of this boat, but had never met them. We chatted for a bit on the VHF and wished them well on their journey; they are from Illinois and have a long way to go before they cross their wake.

"LeeLoo" - Loopers

“Lee Loo” – Loopers

Eventually we went passed the Eau Galle and Pineda Causeway bridges, and approached Cocoa Village. This is very familiar cruising grounds to us and we have had lots of great times in this area. As we headed under the SR 520 Bridge and past Cocoa Village Marina we took it all in as if it was the first time.

Workers on the SR520 bridge

Workers on the SR520 bridge

Birds can't read!

Birds can’t read!

Cocoa Village Marina

Cocoa Village Marina

As we approached the SR 528 (Beachline) Causeway we saw that our Looper friends on “Ocean Dancer” were just ahead of us. What a coincidence that we were in Michigan City, IN when they started their Loop adventure, and here they are when we are about to complete ours.  We talked for a moment on the VHF and as we passed them and offered our best wishes for their continued Loop experience.  We promised to keep in touch and look forward to seeing them next winter in FL.

"Ocean Dancer"

“Ocean Dancer”

And then we went under the bridge and made the familiar right turn into the barge canal and we crossed our wake!

Crossing our wake!

The chart plotter doesn’t lie – Crossing our wake!

But we still had an uneventful 30 minutes of no-wake cruising to get to Harbortown Marina (our home port). We passed a few other boaters, some people picnicking on the shore, and a sailboat.  Finally we turned into the marina, got some fuel, a pump-out, and headed into our slip.

Picnicers along barge canal

Picnickers along barge canal

Returning to the Barge Canal

Returning to the Barge Canal

Entering Harbortown

Entering Harbortown Marina

After we tied up, settled the boat, ate some lunch, and checked into the marina office, Denise published the last blog update while Mark cleaned the outside of the boat. Soon afterwards we met some of our new marina neighbors and then began the celebrations which included pictures, a champagne toast and now flying our Gold Looper burgee!

Flying the Gold Burgee

Flying the Gold Burgee

Crossing our wake celebration

Crossing our wake celebration

And so ends our 5000 mile adventure on America’s Great Loop!

Stretching out the last little bit!

After so much planning and all the travels of the last year, it is hard to believe we are headed into the last leg of our Great Loop adventure. We cannot wrap our head around the fact that a year has gone by already…..time really does fly when you are having fun.

Here is the latest update of our activities:

Wednesday (4/13) – Stuart, FL – We left Mariner’s Cay Marina in Stuart as late as possible as we were working feverishly to get the last blog update published before we left.  It was a nice day to be on the water and we didn’t mind the 20-mile cruise north to Ft. Pierce.  There were lots of fishing boats out and although it was breezy, the wind was out of the South making the cruise north very comfortable.

Here are some pictures of our morning on the water:

City of Fredericksburg Paddle Wheel boat - 772-678-1176

“City of Fredericksburg” paddle wheel boat – comes to Stuart, FL every winter for dinner cruises – spends summer in Richmond, VA.

Island near St. Lucie Inlet

Island near St. Lucie Inlet

Homes north of Stuart

Homes north of Stuart

Since Palm Beach, Mark had been trying to coordinate delivery with a fuel truck at one of our last few stops, and we just weren’t able to pull it off. Eventually, the difference in price was not worth the hassle to get fuel this way. We pulled into the city marina in Fort Pierce and went right to the fuel dock.  With the boat US discount we actually were only a few cents off the price from the fuel truck, so it made sense to get the diesel here.  Plus, they gave us a free holding tank pump-out since we bought over 100 gallons of fuel!  This will be our last fill up until we get to our home port.

After we got the boat tied up and settled we checked into the marina office, and walked around the facilities a bit. It had been a long time since we last visited this marina and it has grown a lot. They have new docks to the east of the older section (where we were located), and they have put in a few small breakwaters off the ICW to minimize wake and currents in the marina.  To us these looked like the wingdams we saw along the Mississippi, but we were grateful as they did the job.

Breakwater/wingdams near Ft. Pierce City Marina

Breakwater – “wing dams” near Ft. Pierce City Marina

IO at Ft. Pierce City marina

IO at Ft. Pierce City marina

There is a park just south of the marina where they have a farmer’s market on Wednesday afternoons and Saturday mornings; we were told Wednesdays was considerably smaller. We went to check it out and found it was kind of small; it only took us about 15 minutes to walk through the whole thing.  We didn’t really need anything or see anything to buy so we just went back to the boat.

Wed farmer's market

Wed farmer’s market

We had heard about the good food at a restaurant called “12A Buoy” located north of the marina, and started to walk to it for dinner. The path took us past the House of Seven Gables Tourist Information center and by a park along the Riverwalk where they were having a big festival. We decided to go investigate and we discovered there was “A Taste of St. Lucie” event being held.  For a $40 per person fee, you got unlimited food & drink provided by some of the local area restaurants, bakeries and bars. All was to benefit the Big Brothers and Big Sisters of St. Lucie (county).

Mark was a little reluctant, but Denise convinced him it would be fun and for a good cause, so we paid our money and went in. For the next 1.5 – 2 hours we went through each vendor and sampled their food.  Some were really good and some were just ok, but it was great fun.  There was Italian, Bar-B-Que, and even some fried chicken, which Mark loved. The beer truck was our stopping point for beverage and we split a Stella Artois (Denise’s favorite) to quench our thirst from all the spicy stuff.  The Lexus dealer had bottled water and we ended up with 4 or 5 of their minis to help out with that too.  The best part was the DJ they had hired, and once they started playing music Denise wanted to dance. Of course no one else was dancing, but once we started it, many others chimed in.  When it switched to rap music we knew it was time for us non-hip old folks to go back to the boat, so we waddled home fully stuffed.

Seven Gable House

Seven Gables House Welcome Center

Taste of St. Lucie sign

Taste of St. Lucie sign

At "Taste of St. Lucie"

At “Taste of St. Lucie”

Once back at the marina we met the people in the boat next to us, who were Loopers too. John & Paula Dennis (“Chapter III”) are from Prince Edward Island, Canada and were so interesting to talk with. They have traveled many miles and shared some information about the Maine coast and coming down the Northeastern part of the US.  Come to find out they know some of the Loopers we also knew, and we were surprised that our paths have not crossed before now.

When we finally got back to the boat, we noticed a text message from our Looper friends KelliRae and Bill (“Ocean Dancer”) who we met back in Michigan City, Indiana in August, and whom we shared a dock with in Stock Island (Key West) in January. They had pulled in and saw we were in the marina and wanted to let us know they were there too.  We agreed to make contact in the morning and then we went to bed.  It was late and we had a full day of adventure.

Thursday (4/14) – Ft. Pierce, FL – Today was a very fun day on our adventure.  Denise started the day with a run around the up-and-coming downtown area and took lots of pictures of some cool sculptures and art around town. She also ran by the Sunrise Theater – which we were told by a local has a great history and should be toured even if you don’t go there for any live performances.  I guess we will have to make it there on our next trip through Ft. Pierce.

Sunrise Theatre

Sunrise Theatre

Although there are many small businesses that have closed out of the downtown area, there are lots of other projects going on to attract visitors to this town, including an expansion of the Riverwalk area at least one new marina going in on the island side. Here are some of the pictures she took during her run:

Park bench in Ft. Pierce

Park bench in Ft. Pierce

Fort Pierce City Hall

Fort Pierce City Hall

Sculptures near City Hall

Sculptures near City Hall

Tree Sculpture near City Hall

Tree Sculpture near City Hall

Painting Manatee sculpture

Painting Manatee sculpture

Manatee sculpture

Manatee sculpture

Sculpture near city boat ramp

Sculpture near city boat ramp

After the breakfast we made contact with KelliRae and Bill, and invited them to spend the day with us on our plans (see below), but they had chores to do as they had just come back to the US from the Bahamas and needed to tend to that. We agreed to touch base for possible dinner together.

Then we took an Uber cab to the National Navy UDT-Seal Museum on the northern part of Hutchinson Island.

Entrance to museum

Entrance to museum

This is terrific museum that pays tribute to the Navy Seals who started out as underwater demolition teams (UDT) and were originally trained in Ft. Pierce during WWII.  Yes, there really was a Fort Pierce located on the North end of Hutchinson Island.  Anyway, the museum was really fascinating and had a lot of interactive displays. Not only was it informative, but it also did a great job of paying tribute to those who lost their lives in the defense of our country.

Medal of Honor Statue

Medal of Honor Statue

There are many artifacts and a large area outside that includes old boats and equipment they used to train on.  In addition, there is an obstacle course that you can try your luck at, and a memorial for those fallen in the line of duty, similar to the Vietnam War Memorial in Washington DC. It is a really terrific place and worth a couple hours drive from the Orlando area to see it. You can learn more about it here.  Here are some of our other pictures from here:

Navy Seal Ethos

Navy Seal Ethos

Seals who died - Painting

Seals who died – Painting

Explaination of painting

Explanation of painting

Capt Phillips actual lifeboat

Capt Phillips actual lifeboat

Denise in SEAL gear

Denise in SEAL gear

Beach obstacles used to train for DDAY

Beach obstacles used to train for DDAY

Seal Memorial

Seal Memorial

Original part of museum

Original part of museum

We returned back to the boat very late and still had not had lunch, so we ate a quick bite and then went on our next adventure. We had been talking boats with our new friends Joy & Steve Poole (“Meandering Joy”) when in Stuart, and they suggested we look at a “Krogen Express”. We confessed we didn’t know anything about them, and they shared that the owners of the company are located in Vero Beach.  We had heard of “Cady Krogen”, but always thought they were the same company.  But, it is not.  They suggested we take a look at that boat as it has some features that we might like in a future boat.

So Mark made contact with the company and we were advised that there is a new one in the marina near where we were. A few phone calls later and we had the broker come and pick us up at the marina, and we went to see the boat.  It is a beautiful and terrific boat that is in the same size range we would like should we choose a mostly full-time cruising lifestyle.  We liked a lot of its features, its design, and feel like it is a sturdy well-made boat.  However, it is way more money than we have to spend, and so we were just interested in learning about it at this time.  But if we were to win the lottery….well, then that might change our minds. In the meantime, we are very happy with Island Office and know we can afford to keep it running so we can go on more adventures.

After we returned from seeing the Krogen Express, we tried to coordinate dinner with KelliRae and Bill, but they were in the middle of a boat maintenance project. So we went off to eat at “12A Buoy” (the restaurant we were headed to last night before getting distracted) with plans to connect with them later in the evening. We had to walk down the Riverwalk and under the bridge that goes to Hutchinson Island to get to the restaurant; about a half mile away.  The place is known to get packed and has most of its eating outside. It was threatening to rain and we were hesitant to choose an outdoor table, but because we could get seated right away we opted for outside and had a terrific meal. The seafood was fresh and the options allowed for an affordable meal that was very satisfying and delicious.

"12A Buoy"

“12A Buoy”

"12A Buoy"

“12A Buoy”

Dinner at "12A Buoy"

Dinner at “12A Buoy”

Shortly after we returned to the boat, Bill & KelliRae came over and we talked for a long time; sharing their adventures in the Bahamas, and our future travel plans. After hearing their stories (and others who attempted travel in the Bahamas this year) we were feeling like we had made the right decision not to go there this trip.  It was just after 9:00 when they left our boat, just as the sky opened up and a heck of an electrical storm ensued. Fortunately they made it back to their boat safely and we tucked in for the night.

Here are some other pictures from the Ft. Pierce area:

City marina sign

City marina sign for our dock

North docks - Ft. Pierce

North docks – Ft. Pierce City Marina

AE Backus Museum

AE Backus Museum

Marina office & Facilities

Marina office & Facilities

Tiki Bar at Marina

Tiki Bar at Marina

FPYC

FPYC

Sailfish monument near marina

Sailfish monument near marina

PP Cobb Training Center

PP Cobb Training Center

Cobb's Landing

Cobb’s Landing

Painted electric box

Painted electric box

Friday (4/15) – Vero Beach, FL – Fearing the forecasted bad weather, we wanted to leave early and get under way while the sky was still blue and the sun shining.  We left Ft. Pierce before 9:00 a.m., and traveled the short 13 miles to Vero Beach.  It was so nice to be on the water when the weather was good, but we could see the clouds forming and by the time we tied up to the Vero Beach Yacht Club (VBYC) docks they were getting bigger and filling the sky.

After checking in and we did a quick walk through of the Vero Beach marina located right next door, to see if there were any other Loopers there. We saw some flags on boats, but did not know of them and they were not on their boats, so we returned back to the VBYC. Then, we decided to hit the grocery store before it rained.  The good thing about Vero Beach and is they have a bus system and you can pick one up at the city marina and be at a Publix in 10 minutes.

So we walked back to the city marina parking lot to wait for the bus. While waiting we ran into Mike & Fran Brown (“October Moon”) whom we met at Old Port Cove Marina in Palm Beach – but we didn’t have a boat card and couldn’t remember their names.  We ended up talking to them while waiting for the bus, on the bus, and into Publix.  After shopping we got to the bus stop and had a bit of wait for the next bus, but ended up talking with them and some other boaters, all who were at the city marina or on a mooring in the city marina.  We all got back safely to our boats when the thunder and lightning started and gave us quite a show.  Fortunately, most of the worst weather was south of us and we were spared the high winds.

We spent the rest of the evening reading and doing emails, until it was time for dinner. Denise made fajitas and we enjoyed having a good home cooked meal aboard our Island Office.

Here are some pictures from today:

Leaving Ft. Pierce City Marina

Leaving Ft. Pierce City Marina

Morning on ICW north of Ft. Pierce

Morning on ICW north of Ft. Pierce

Power Plant near Vero Beach

Power Plant near Vero Beach

Homes near Vero Beach

Homes near Vero Beach

Approaching Vero Beach marinas

Approaching Vero Beach marinas

VBYC

VBYC

VBYC - marina side

VBYC – marina side

It has been nearly 18 months since we were here in Vero Beach so yes, we technically crossed our wake in this boat today. But we are not going to officially celebrate until we return home to Harbortown marina in Merritt Island in a week or so.  We haven’t decided if we will go straight there from here, or if we will stop at anchorages along the way, or maybe make a quick trip up to New Smyrna Beach first.  Weather will be the key factor in our decision, along with tempering the desire to be home.

Saturday (4/16) – Vero Beach, FL – We woke up to a thunderstorm and rain that would subside for 15 minutes, only to be pouring again.  This prevented Denise from getting in a run and she ended up staying in her PJs for most of the morning – something she NEVER does.  Mark, slept in until 9:00 and loved it!

Fearing our activities for the day would be limited and that Sunday was also not looking great, we decided to get a rental car for the weekend. This way we could go adventuring a little further around Orchid Island (the ocean-side part of Vero Beach), and do some things we wanted to do that were not accessible via the bus system or walking.

After picking up the rental car we drove to the beach side to check out Quail Valley River Yacht Club, just south of where the VBYC and city marina are located. It was purchased by the Riomar Country Club (also on Orchid Island), and from what we could see from the guard gate it looked to be a beautiful place.  They are a members-only club but they do have a couple of slips for reciprocity transients if you are lucky enough to get in.  We had heard about this place from another Looper, but did not pursue it as we had reservations at VBYC. Although we were happy with our accommodations, we were still curious. The area surrounding the club is gated and we could not get close enough to see it,  Without an appointment we were not getting in, so we moved on; our curiosity had been satisfied.

Next we went to the beach downtown and stopped into a kitchen supply store that used to have cooking classes we thought we might take one while we are here. However, last week we learned that they no longer offer them, and in fact the store was closing and were having a huge clearance sale. We stopped in only to find the ridiculously overpriced items were still ridiculously overpriced even with a 60% discount. Probably why they closed – and the fact that the Williams-Sonoma outlet store was less than 15 minutes away.

Finding nothing to spend our money on, we left for more sightseeing. We drove around a few neighborhoods and some of the other sights along the beach area, including Costa d’Este Beach Resort & Spa – owned by singer Gloria Estefan (aka Miami Sound Machine) and her husband.

Costa d'Este

Costa d’Este

We then drove back to the mainland to go to the movies at the Indian River Mall – AMC Movie Theater. We saw “Miracles from Heaven” as we were surprised it was still in theaters.  We wanted to see this when it first came out but we were in Marathon and the lone movie theater didn’t show it. What a wonderful movie that all who question belief in a higher power need to see.

After the movie we went back to the beach side and had a delicious dinner at “Pomodoro Grill/ Trattoria Italiana”. The food was really good and our waitress was friendly enough. However, they were a bit disorganized and Mark’s dinner came out 10 minutes after Denise’s.  The good news is they had delicious garlic knots (better than Giovanni’s) but only give you one each when you sit down.  With a simple request, our waitress got us 2 more and Mark was in 7th heaven.

Pomodoro Grill - Trattoria

Pomodoro Grill – Trattoria

Chicken Picatta at Pomodoro Grill - Trattoria

Chicken Picatta at Pomodoro Grill – Trattoria

Sunday (4/17) – Vero Beach, FL – The benefit of a rental car was that we could get to church as the bus system does not run on Sunday.  We contemplated going on Saturday evening, but the movie got out too late for us to make the last mass.  So we ended up going to the 9:00 am mass, which afforded Denise the opportunity to run down and around the beach before we went to Church.  Here are a few pictures from her run:

Famous Ocean Grill

Famous Ocean Grill

Mulligan's

Mulligan’s

Sunrise - Orchid Island

Sunrise – Orchid Island

Humiston Park

Humiston Park

We attended Holy Cross Catholic, which is a good size parish and a beautiful church with balcony seating and a lively congregation.  Here are some pictures from it:

Holy Cross Catholic Church

Holy Cross Catholic Church

Holy Cross

Holy Cross

Holy Cross Church

Holy Cross Church

After church we went back to VBYC as they have a brunch that came highly recommended by a few other boaters we have met on the docks. We were not disappointed as they make omelets (or eggs benedict) to order and had fresh fruit, salad, and the usual bacon, sausage, potatoes, grits and pastries.  The food was good and the price ($12.95 per person) was very reasonable.  We were full and felt good about patronizing the club.

After brunch we used the rental car to drive to the Vero Beach outlet mall. We like this mall as it has a Williams-Sonoma Outlet store and we can sometimes find some great bargains.  Although this outlet mall has many of the same stores like the ones in the Orlando outlets, we like it better because the salespeople here are friendlier, much more customer service oriented, and we don’t feel like we are in a foreign country.  It is delightful shopping here, even though we hardly purchased anything.

After our adventures at the outlet mall, we drove back towards Orchid Island and went through more neighborhoods looking at houses. We drove north up towards Indian River Shores and an area known as John’s Island – a large development area that has a beach club, country club, home sites, townhomes and condominiums that span both the Atlantic Ocean and Intercostal waterway.  This gated community looks beautiful, but we both agreed we would not want to ever live in such a place. It is way too “sterile” and we don’t want the monthly maintenance and association fees.

We drove back to the VBYC in time for cocktails, dinner of leftovers from the freezer, and to see the sun set over Fritz Island to our west.

VBYC marina

VBYC marina

Sunset over Fritz Island

Sunset over Fritz Island

Monday (4/18) – Vero Beach, FL – The day started out calm with a little breezy, but very comfortable. It was nice that it wasn’t raining and that the wind had settled down a bit.  We spent most of the morning doing emails and writing for the next blog post.

After lunch we returned the rental car to Avis and had them bring us back to the marina; a short 5 minute ride.

Then we went on a dinghy adventure. We rode around the city mooring field and anchorage, around Bethel Creek, and to the Indian River waterway that runs along Live Oak Rd.  Here we saw nicely maintained older Florida homes mixed in with newer mansions. Another part of Florida that is being overdeveloped and homogenized.  We like the old homes that have been maintained or updated as they lend an air of authenticity to the area.  Here are some of the pictures we took:

Home along Bethel Creek

Home along Bethel Creek

Home off Live Oak Rd

Home off Live Oak Rd

Home off Live Oak Rd

Home off Live Oak Rd

Home off Live Oak Rd

Home off Live Oak Rd

Home off Live Oak Rd

Home off Live Oak Rd

During our dinghy ride we went over to see John & Paula (“Chapter III”) – whom we met in Ft. Pierce. They had come into the VB city marina and were on a mooring right near our boat.  We spoke with them for a while and made plans to have happy hour together on Island Office.

After we got back to the boat and did a few chores, we got cleaned up just in time for John & Paula to show up with a bottle of wine in hand. We spent a long time talking with them and getting to know them better. They have so many travel stories as they have boated all over the world and it was all so interesting to us. They did not leave until it was way late and we had missed the last bus for any dinner on the beach, but we didn’t care as we now have new Looper friends.  Fortunately we have plenty of food on the boat and so we ate the last of the leftover pizza for dinner and called it a (very fun) day!

John & Paula ("Chapter III")

John & Paula (“Chapter III”)

Stay tuned for more adventures!

Heading Home!

Well we have left the FL Keys and we are (finally) headed North on our final stretch of this Great Loop adventure. Very soon we will be home and some days it seems like we just left yesterday.

Here is the latest update of our activities:

Friday (4/1) – Card Sound, FL – We left Key Largo in the morning with a revised itinerary and a schedule which will have us spending the next few weeks making our way north.  It was bittersweet to leave Key Largo as we had a lot of fun and liked the neighborhood; plus the people we met here were so friendly.  However, we will not miss the blaring noise from Sharkey’s every night.

Leaving Key Largo

Leaving Key Largo

Our partner

Our partner

Leaving Port Largo entrance

Leaving Port Largo entrance

Key Largo homeowner

Key Largo homeowner

Houses at Ocean Reef Atlantic Side

Houses at Ocean Reef Atlantic Side

Angel Fish Creek Channel

Angel Fish Creek Channel

We had a nice day on the water, but our cruise was not long and in no time we were anchored in Card Sound, just off the northern shore of North Key Largo, east of Pumpkin Cay. As the wind was to blow out of the Southeast during the night we felt well protected. Our only concerns were passing boats which may wake us, or that the nuclear power plant (Turkey point) across the sound would melt-down while we were there. Obviously our chances were greatest with the passing boaters.

Power plant on Card Sound

Power plant on Card Sound

IO at anchor

IO at anchor

We made some lunch and then launched the dinghy and went for a ride. Our adventure took us through the canals and homes on North Key Largo which is part of Ocean Reef, a gated community that is very exclusive. The yacht club here requires you to have a member sponsor you in order to visit; reciprocity is allowed, but only with the sponsorship.  At $9 per foot per night and a 50’ boat minimum, it was not a place for us.  We did however enjoy riding around and looking at all the huge homes around the place. Here are a few shots from there:

Ocean Reef Houses

Ocean Reef Houses

Ocean Reef home

Ocean Reef home

Ocean Reef home

Ocean Reef home

Ocean Reef home

Ocean Reef home

Ocean Reef home - Vineyard Vines

Ocean Reef home – Vineyard Vines boat

Jets leaving Ocean Reef

Jets leaving Ocean Reef

We left the canals and ventured out into the sound to the northern shore of Pumpkin Key where there was another boat at anchor. The waves and chop were a lot worse out here, and we spoke with the people on the boat and told them it was calmer where we were anchored.  Shortly after we returned to the boat, they decided to move near us where they stayed the rest of the night.  Shortly thereafter we were joined by two other boats who anchored near us as well.  Fortunately, there was lots of room and we never felt crowded.

Mark driving the dinghy

Mark driving the dinghy

Enjoying the dinghy ride

Enjoying the dinghy ride

Enjoying Card Sound

Enjoying Card Sound

That night we had great protection from the wind and we were treated to a spectacular sunset. We also found all boat traffic ceased as soon as it got dark so all was quiet and calm.  This ended up being one of our favorite nights at anchor on the Loop.

Locals come out for sunset

Locals come out for sunset

sunset over Card Sound

sunset over Card Sound

Sunset over Card Sound

Sunset over Card Sound

Saturday (4/2) – Miami, FL – The sunrises here are just as beautiful as the sunsets, but we were only here for one night.

Sunrise over anchorage

Sunrise over anchorage

We had been in communication with our friends on “Sassified” and “Endoxi”, who left Islamorada earlier in the morning.  Once they cleared the Card Sound Bridge they called us and we pulled up our anchor in time to rendezvous on the ICW with them.  Together the three of us cruised through Biscayne Bay and into Miami. We were barely able to see the “Stiltsville” houses off the coast of Key Biscayne as it was quite hazy with salt in the air, and the wind was really blowing strong now.

Rondezvous with Endoxi & Sassified

Rendezvous with Endoxi & Sassified

Stiltsville house

“Stiltsville” houses

As we entered the Dinner Key channel to make our way to the Coral Reef Yacht club in Coconut Grove, we found ourselves in the middle of lots of Optimist Prams whose young sailors were enjoying the blustery wind. There was nowhere for us to go as it is too shallow outside the channel and their tack forced them across us.  It was a harrowing few minutes, but Mark handled our boat well and we made it through without incident.  Likewise, he docked Island Office on the end of the dock with the help of the dockhands at the yacht club.  Meanwhile our friends continued on to Grove Isle where they had reservations in slips there.

Dinner Key Channel

Dinner Key Channel

Dinner Key Channel

Dinner Key Channel

Miami Skyline from Biscayne Bay

Miami Skyline from Biscayne Bay

 

That night for dinner we met Pam, Pete, and Sharri & Rodney at Monty’s (formerly known as Monty Trainer’s) in Coconut Grove. It was a short walk from all our boats and the closest restaurant.

Dinner at Monty's with Sassified & Endoxi

Dinner at Monty’s with Sassified & Endoxi

This is old stomping ground for Denise from when she lived and worked in Miami. Oh how it has changed. The place now has outdoor dining and a large bar in what was the old place, and indoor dining in a new building that now is where the old parking lot was.  It is no longer just a neighborhood handout that Jimmy Buffet used to spontaneously show up at, but rather a tourist mecca that (naturally) sells t-shirts, etc.  We still had a good dinner and enjoyed each other’s company, for what will probably be our last time together; they are moving north to continue their Loop adventure and we are taking a slow route until we get Island Office back home.

Old part of Monty's

Old part of Monty’s

New part of Monty's

New part of Monty’s

Sunday (4/3) – Miami, FL – We started off the day by going to another new church St. Hugh’s in Coconut Grove. As we expected rain and didn’t want to get wet along the way, we got an Uber taxi to take us there. But the weather cleared up while we were in church, so we walked the 1.2 miles back to the yacht club, passing shops, parks and restaurants “the Grove” is known for.   Here are some pictures of St. Hugh’s:

Church of St. Hugh

Church of St. Hugh

Church of St. Hugh

Church of St. Hugh

Courtyard at St. Hugh

Courtyard at St. Hugh

Also along the way we stopped by the Fresh Market that is right near the yacht club. We needed milk for breakfast, but not much else as we expect to do very little cooking on the boat going forward – there are just too many great places to stop and eat at along the way.

Fresh Market in the Grove

Fresh Market in the Grove

The rest of the day we enjoyed just hanging around the boat and the yacht club. We watched the sailing instructor go out with his young students in the Optimist Pram boats.

Kids in the marina

Kids in the marina

Leaving for their lesson in Biscayne BAy

Leaving for their lesson in Biscayne BAy

We also enjoyed the atmosphere and hanging out around the CRYC.For dinner that night we patronized their snack bar and had a fish sandwich (Denise) & hamburger (Mark).  It was beautiful weather and we enjoyed sitting out by the pool taking in all the sights.

CRYC Dinner

CRYC Dinner

Here are some pictures we took of the yacht club over the last few days:

Sign on dock

Sign on dock

CRYC Entrance from Bayshore

CRYC Entrance from Bayshore

CRYC entrance at night

CRYC entrance at night

CRYC at night

CRYC at night

Coral Reef Yacht Club

Coral Reef Yacht Club

CRYC pool

CRYC pool

CRYC pool bar

CRYC pool bar

CRYC Dining hall & porch

CRYC Dining hall & porch

CRYC entrance looking to gate

CRYC entrance looking to gate

Victory in Sails

Victory in Sails

Monday (4/4) – Miami Beach, FL – Denise was motivated this morning to run around the Grove where she had run so many years before. She headed south on Bayshore Drive past the high rises and down to Main Highway for an out-and-back run.  This two-lane road runs along several of the parks and has 4 schools all within a one-mile stretch.  Needless to say at 7:30 it was full of cars trying to drop off kids for school and was very congested; there were 4 separate police cars directing traffic.

Grove traffic for schools

Grove traffic for schools

Here are some pictures from our time in Coconut Grove:

Condo building in the Grove

Condo building in the Grove

Coconut Grove peacock statue

Coconut Grove peacock statue

Peacock statue in Coconut Grove

Peacock statue in Coconut Grove

Park Bench in Coconut Grove

Park Bench in Coconut Grove

Sculptures in Myers Park - Coconut Grove

Sculptures in Myers Park – Coconut Grove

Historic State Park in Coconut Grove

Historic State Park in Coconut Grove

Coconut Grove sign

Coconut Grove sign

Coconut Grove Playhouse

Coconut Grove Playhouse

Coconut Grove

Coconut Grove

Post Office

Post Office

Commercial shoot The Grove

Commercial shoot The Grove

CG Sailing School

CG Sailing School

After the run and breakfast, we moved the boat to Miami Beach as we wanted to see the place when it was not crazy with the Boat Show crowds like we usually see. Along the way we passed by Vizcaya and some great views of downtown Miami.  We chose to cruise the eastern side of the bay nearing Fisher Island and the Port of Miami.

Vizcaya from Biscayne Bay

Vizcaya from Biscayne Bay

Downtown Miami from Biscayne Bay

Downtown Miami from Biscayne Bay

Fisher Island fuel tanks

Fisher Island fuel tanks

Miami Beach Skyline at port entrance

Miami Beach Skyline at port entrance

We rounded the corner through Government Cut and into the Meloy Channel, and went under the MacArthur Causeway.  We passed between Miami Beach and Star Island, location of mansions and homes for some known celebrities (Gloria Estefan) and CEOs (Lennar Homes). We also passed the Flagler Memorial Island (what Mark and his dad would call Monument Island when they would fish the Biscayne Bay together.

Boat looking like it should be in a Bond film

Boat looking like it should be in a Bond film

Star Island home

Star Island home

Flagler Memorial Island

Flagler Memorial Island

This path was fun and worked great until we got to the East Venetian Causeway Bridge that was locked down for maintenance. As a result we had to head west towards downtown Miami taking us south of the Venetian Islands and north of Watson Island. Along the way we got to see some beautiful homes, the Miami Yacht club, and many boats at anchorages.

Jungle Island and Miami Yacht Club

Jungle Island and Miami Yacht Club

We then had to wait 20 minutes for the next opening of the Venetian West Bridge.  All of this added about an hour to our journey, but we didn’t care as we were on the water and enjoying a beautiful day with spectacular sights.

We arrived at Sunset Harbor Yacht Club and had two very good dockhands assisting us for the tied up. We were one of the smallest boats in this mecca of large private yachts, many with registry in the Cayman Islands or BVI’s.

Sunset Harbor Yacht Club

Sunset Harbor Yacht Club

Although named a yacht club, this marina is open to the public, but they are actively seeking equity club members. On the east side are two large condominium towers and on the west side is the Biscayne Bay.  The place is absolutely pristine and the staff is awesome. After getting the boat secured we went to the marina office to check in.  “Daniel” the dockmaster immediately recognized us by our names; Mark had spoken with him on the phone and everyone in the office was most helpful.

Daniel - Dockmaster at Sunset Harbor Yacht Club

Daniel – Dockmaster at Sunset Harbor Yacht Club

Right after checking in we were looking at the pool and realized we knew the man sitting in the chair watching his young son play in the water. “John” was the former NY Firefighter Mark had met at Great Kills Yacht Club in Staten Island, NY, where he is a member. He and his family left shortly after us to start their Great Loop adventure, and we were surprised we had not run into them before.  We stayed talking to him for quite a while about places we had been and experiences along the way.

John & JJ in pool at Sunset Harbor

John & JJ in pool at Sunset Harbor

The good thing about this marina is it is walking distance to Publix, Fresh Market and just blocks from Lincoln Road where we went for dinner. John had recommended a place to us (“SPRIES”) that has a pizza “happy hour” and is supposed to be great NY-style pizza. So we went there to check it out. We found it to be good and with a shared salad, made for an affordable night in an otherwise very expensive dining area.

Lincoln Road

Lincoln Road

Dinner at SPRIES

Dinner at SPRIES

Elaine's old workplace on Lincoln Rd

Elaine’s old workplace on Lincoln Rd

Sunset Harbor Yacht Club Marina is a high-rent marina with lots of big yachts, including “A2” which was on the dock behind and perpendicular to our boat.

A3 - Private yacht near us at SHYC

A3 – Private yacht near us at SHYC

It is also the most expensive place we have stayed on the Loop at $4 per foot + $15/day for electric, + tax. Needless to say we only stayed one night, although we can see how people would like to stay for months on end.  It is convenient, well-staffed and immaculate. It has a beautiful pool and patio area, and a first class workout facility that we (unfortunately) were not here long enough to take advantage of.

Here are some other pictures from our short Miami Beach stay:

Sunset from SHYC

Sunset from SHYC

Washing the boat - SHYC

Washing the boat – SHYC

IO at SHYC

IO at SHYC

Tuesday (4/5) – Coral Ridge Yacht Club – Ft. Lauderdale – Not wanting to leave, but realizing we had to (or it would be like another mortgage payment) we untied the dock lines and headed North.  It had been a very long time since we have taken this part of the ICW; usually we go outside in the ocean as the going is very slow.  There are numerous no-wake zones and lots of boat traffic.  But the wind was blowing hard out of the north today, so we knew going outside was not an option.  Plus, we really wanted to see the sights.

Leaving Miami Beach

Leaving Miami Beach & SHYC marina

All along the water on the beach side are several communities with large homes and boats. As you approach North Miami it turns into condominium city, with numerous large towers, and many more under construction. And yet there still is some of the older one and two-story complexes which are now in the shadows of the steel monoliths.  It is quite a sight to see.

Miami Beach Home

Miami Beach Home

Sculpture at Miami Beach home

Sculpture at Miami Beach home

Miami Beach houses

Miami Beach houses

MB house

MB house

MB house

MB house

We continued north through Hallandale, Dania, Hollywood, and eventually into the Ft. Lauderdale inlet known as Port Everglades. Here are some pictures from this part of the trip:

Haulover Inlet sandbar

Haulover Inlet sandbar

Haulover Inlet

Haulover Inlet

Condos on Sunny Isles

Condos on Sunny Isles

Cool art on Hollywood Beach

Cool art on Hollywood Beach

5 O'clock Somewhere Bar - Hollywood Bch

5 O’clock Somewhere Bar – Hollywood Bch

Archaelogy Vessel

Archaeology Vessel

Nova SE University Oceaographic Center

Nova SE University Oceaographic Center

Signage at Port Everglades entrance

Signage at Port Everglades entrance

Coming into Port Everglades we saw that the Princess Cruise ship the “Coral Princess” was in port.  In 2007 we had taken this very ship out of this very terminal on a 10-day cruise to the Panama Canal with Claire (Denise’s sister) and her family.

Coral Princess

Coral Princess

Of course one of the first landmarks in the area is the famous Pier 66 with its famous rotating restaurant and 360˚ view; now operating as a Hyatt hotel.

Pier 66

Pier 66

The other landmark to know you are in Ft. Lauderdale is the numerous HUGE yachts that are everywhere. It is amazing that so many exist in one place.  If that is not enough, there are the numerous homes that line the ICW, as well as the canal that feed into the ICW.  So much wealth in one spot on this large planet.

Private Yachts

Private Yachts

Private Yachts

Private Yachts

Private Yachts

Private Yachts

Ft. Lauderdale canals

Ft. Lauderdale canals

Ft Lauderdale home

Ft Lauderdale home

Ft. Lauderdale Mansion

Ft. Lauderdale Mansion

Here are some other pictures from the trip today:

Ft. Lauderdale Water Taxi

Ft. Lauderdale Water Taxi

Port Everglades Entrance

Port Everglades Entrance

BahiaMar

Bahia Mar marina

Sandbar to west of channel

Sandbar to west of channel

iguna on bridge fender

iguana on bridge fender

Old and new condos - Ft. Lauderdale beach

Old and new condos – Ft. Lauderdale beach

We docked successfully at the Coral Ridge Yacht club which is directly off the ICW just north of Sunrise Blvd in Ft. Lauderdale. If you know this town, you know that it is a pretty great location as the Galleria Mall is in walking distance, as is numerous high end dining spots. Additionally, it is a short walk to the famous Ft. Lauderdale beach where the boys (and girls) really are.

We were met at the dock by the dockmaster, Sharon who helped us tie up and then instructed us where to go for check in.

Dockmaster Sharon

Dockmaster Sharon

Dockmaster's office at CRYC

Dockmaster’s office at CRYC

After we got the boat securely tied for the forecasted wind, we were visited her office and checked in.  She then preceded to give us a tour of the yacht club and introduced us to the staff along the way.  All were very friendly and helpful and down to earth. We also got to meet the club cat, “Coral” who was equally hospitable and managed to get some affection from Denise.

"Coral" the CRYC cat

“Coral” the CRYC cat

As we had missed the opportunity for fine dining to celebrate Denise’s birthday in March, we splurged for dinner and went to the Capital Grill near the Galleria mall. It took us about 15 minutes to walk there and had a delicious steak and accompanying sides.  We were thankful for the walk back as it gave us some chance to exercise off our dinner.

Capital Grill

Capital Grill

Here are some pictures we took of the yacht club:

Front doors to CRYC

Front doors to CRYC

Pool at CRYC

Pool at CRYC

CRYC entrance at evening

CRYC entrance at evening

Inside CRYC

Inside CRYC

CRYC Pool bar

CRYC Pool bar

Wednesday (4/6) – Coral Ridge Yacht Club – Ft. Lauderdale – Denise spent nearly the whole day cataloging pictures taken in the last two weeks.  There was a lot to do as we have been so busy and we got behind a bit. In the meantime, Mark secured our marina accommodations for Palm Beach, Ft. Pierce and Vero Beach, and he identified anchoring locations in Hobe Sound and Stuart area.  He was also able to secure a home-port slip back into our old marina at Harbortown in Merritt Island, although not the same one. Before long we will have Island Office there and we can’t believe how fast a year has gone by.

That evening we decided to have dinner at the CRYC in their less formal dining area, the Wheelhouse. They had a reputation for good food and we always want to patronize the clubs when they are kind enough to let us stay on reciprocity.  Our food was really good and the service was superb.  We really liked the friendliness of this club, the amenities, and we wouldn’t mind staying here for a month or so next winter if they have space.

Boats across the marina at CRYC

Boats across the marina at CRYC

Thursday (4/7) – Delray Beach City Marina – Delray Beach – Today we were headed north, but not before Denise was able to get a run in along the Ft. Lauderdale beach area.  She ran along the esplanade and enjoyed seeing this beautiful beach and surrounding area.

Ft Lauderdale Beach

Ft Lauderdale Beach

State park near CRYC

State park near CRYC

Not wanting to leave, we procrastinated as late as possible, but finally got the boat underway and headed north, passing more beautiful homes through Ft. Lauderdale, Lighthouse Point, Hillsboro Beach and Boca Raton. When the homes were not big, the boats in front of them were, or in some cases both were huge. Here are some of the small shacks we saw along the way:

Ft. Lauderdale Home

Ft. Lauderdale Home

Ft Lauderdale Home

Ft Lauderdale Home

Ft Lauderdale Home

Ft Lauderdale Home

Ft Lauderdale Home

Ft Lauderdale Home

Ft Lauderdale Home - Denise's favorite

Ft Lauderdale Home – Denise’s favorite

Ft. Lauderdale home with funny statues

Ft. Lauderdale home with funny statues

Hillsboro Beach Home

Hillsboro Beach Home

Lighthouse Point homes & boats

Lighthouse Point homes & boats

Hillsboro Beach Home

Hillsboro Beach Home

Hillsboro Beach home

Hillsboro Beach home

Hillsboro Beach house

Hillsboro Beach house

Hillsboro Beach Home

Hillsboro Beach Home

Boca Raton House and boat

Boca Raton House and boat

Boca Raton house

Boca Raton house

Boca Raton condos on the beach

Boca Raton condos on the beach

Boca Raton home

Boca Raton home

Thinking of sister "Claire" in Boca Raton

Thinking of sister “Claire” in Boca Raton

We arrived at the Delray Beach City marina and were pleasantly surprised. Although there were no dockhands or city employees to greet you, one of the seasonal live-aboard boaters came out to assist us with tying up and told us the info packet and restroom key were in the dock box. He also told us about the restrooms and laundry facilities at the south end of the marina, which had a free ice machine.  Everything was in great condition and the rate was really reasonable, plus it was in walking distance to Atlantic Blvd where all the restaurants were.

Welcom banners

Welcome banners

IO at Delray City marina

IO at Delray City marina

Marina Sign

Marina Sign

Marina restrooms, ice & laundry

Marina restrooms, ice & laundry

We had Mark’s new AMEX credit card waiting for us across the ICW at the Delray Beach Yacht Club, where we originally were going to stay. However, the marina facilities were under construction and there were no restrooms, laundry, office, etc. and the rate was double the city marina. So, when we got into the city marina we cancelled the yacht club reservation, but still had to retrieve the already delivered credit card.  While Mark washed the salt off the boat, Denise walked across the bridge to the yacht club and in no time was back to the boat.

Shortly thereafter Jason from Ocean Air showed up to fix our salon hatch shade. We had been trying to get him scheduled to meet us since the Miami Boat show in Feb., but his schedule and ours never seemed to coordinate until today.  He came in an in 90 minutes fixed the shade, replaced a handle on another shade and showed Mark a few things to help us maintain these going forward.

Just has he was leaving, we had more company. Denise has an old high school friend who is a captain on a privately-owned yacht that is kept in West Palm Beach. “Barry” and Denise had reconnected on Facebook a few years ago and they have communicated occasionally, mostly as they are politically aligned, but they also share a love of the water.  Barry and his wife Staci live in Delray Beach, so he came by the boat and they had a chance to talk about his job and to get caught up.  Our conversations lasted way longer than we expected and it was too late to go out for a bit to eat, so we opted for leftovers on the boat for dinner.

Friday (4/8) – Delray Beach City Marina – Delray Beach – We discovered early in the day that this was the weekend of “Delray Affair”, an annual arts festival located on Atlantic Blvd for which they shut down this main street through the town.

Delray Affair sign

Delray Affair sign

We decided to go check it out with the intention of spending a short time there.  However, we were so impressed and it was so much bigger than we expected. Additionally, half way through our exploring of the artists, Mark got a call from a client in Australia who had a critical systems issue so he had to stop and deal with it. He was on the phone for nearly an hour coordinating resources and trying to assist with the issue, all the while Denise found a few things to purchase.  Finally, the call was ended and we realized it was well past noon, we were hungry and we still had a third of the festival to see. Plus we had an errand we needed to do that would require us to walk another mile. So we opted for a quick bite to eat at “Doc’s All-American“, and pressed on through the rest of the festival. It was well after 2:00 before we got back to the boat.

Delray affair

Delray affair

Inflatable at Delray Affair

Inflatable at Delray Affair

Doc's All American

Doc’s All American

Grill cheese at Doc's

Grill cheese at Doc’s

Hamburger and fries at Doc's

Hamburger and fries at Doc’s

Mark got a little power-nap in and Denise did some emails before our old friends Irv & Marsha showed up to catch up. We met this couple in 1999 when we had our sailboat in the Bahamas and have stayed in touch ever since.

Irv & Marsh

Irv & Marsh

After some drinks aboard our boat and getting caught up on our lives, we went to dinner at Lemongrass, on Atlantic Avenue.  Our Asian dinner was good and afterwards Irv turned us on to ”Popbar”; an Italian gelato-on-a-stick place, It was good, but we both agreed a good bowl of ice cream would have been better for the same portion and calories.

Lemongrass restaurant

Lemongrass restaurant

Popbar

Popbar

After a walk around a bit we headed back to the boat when Irv suggested we come out to see their home. So we got in their car and drove about 15 minutes to their house.  They are pet-sitting Marsha’s daughter’s dog so Denise & Marsha took the dog on a much needed walk while Mark and Irv discussed boat things. Shortly thereafter they returned us back to our boat said our good-bye’s.  It had a very long day and it was late so we crashed right away.

Here are some other pictures from our stay in Delray Beach:

Marina Historic District marker

Marina Historic District marker

Christian Scientist church near marina

Christian Scientist church near marina – from Boca originally

 

Washing the lights

Washing the lights

Statue in Delray Beach

Statue in Delray Beach

House near marina

House near marina

House near marina

House near marina

Inn near the marina

Inn near the marina

Saturday (4/9) – Old Port Cove Marina, North Palm Beach – Wanting to see the sunrise on the beach, Denise was up and out the door early for a run.  She captured a few sights along the way:

Sunrise on the Atlantic - Delray Beach

Sunrise on the Atlantic – Delray Beach

Running path on Delray Beach

Running path on Delray Beach

The Delray Wreck historical marker

The Delray Wreck historical marker

Homes on Atlantic

Homes on Atlantic

Hibiscus and Ocean

Hibiscus and Ocean

Welcome Sign

Welcome Sign

Anchor Park

Anchor Park

Park sign

Park sign

Sand Bar restaurant

Sand Bar restaurant

We left Delray Beach marina at 9:05 to time the Atlantic Avenue bridge opening at 9:15, and wanting to get an early start.  The winds were forecasted to be strong and we knew we had to cross Lake Worth later in our travels, and didn’t want to face rough water when doing so.  We also had to consider the restricted bridge openings for two other bridges, one of which we discovered had a 15’ clearance and we didn’t need to wait for its opening.  We barely squeaked by, requiring 14.5 feet; it was close but prevented us from having to wait over 20 minutes and unnecessarily burn fuel.  We were grateful for our low clearance as we did not require any further openings.

We had originally made reservations at a different marina in the Lake Worth inlet area, but based on input from Barry & Irv, it was suggested we look at Old Port Cove marina in North Palm Beach. It is also where the boat that Barry captains is located. So, after their inputs and reading the reviews on Active Captain, we decided to switch if they could accommodate us. Mark made a phone call before we left the dock and we were in and made travel plans accordingly.

The cruise up the ICW once again took us past the lovely homes of Delray Beach, Palm Beach, and the downtown of West Palm Beach, including the “public docks”. Here are just a few pictures of what we saw:

Delray Beach home

Delray Beach home

Delray Beach Home

Delray Beach Home

Palm Beach Home

Palm Beach Home

Palm Beach Home

Palm Beach Home

Palm Beach Homes

Palm Beach Homes

Yachts at Palm Beach Docks

Yachts at Palm Beach Docks

Trump Tower - WPB

Trump Tower – WPB

Downtown WPB

Downtown WPB

Megayachts at WPB public docks

Megayachts at WPB public docks

"Limitless" - owned by Limited

“Limitless” – owned by Limited

Coming into the Lake Worth area, the boat traffic had picked up considerably, as had the wind which contributed to the choppy waters. We were glad we did not stay at the original marina as it was right off the ICW and we would have been very exposed to the chop. It would have been another “Grand Haven” experience and we were glad we had chosen differently.  We did however see a group of young sailors in an Optimist Pram regatta:

Optimist Pram regatta

Optimist Pram regatta

FP&L Eco Discovery Center

FP&L Eco Discovery Center

Fuel Tanks at FPL Discovery Center

Painted fuel tanks at FPL Discovery Center

To our east was Peanut Island, a county park which is in the middle of the inlet and attracts lots of weekend campers, boaters, kayakers, and paddle boarders (although not today as it was too windy). It also has hiking paths throughout and you can pick up water taxi to take you there from either Riviera Beach or West Palm Beach. You can learn more about the island here.

Peanut Island

Peanut Island

Peanut Island

Peanut Island

We continued North through Lake Worth until we came to the marina, located just to the right of where the ICW makes a left turn. It was tucked back into a cove and was well protected.  Around the place are several condominium towers, and the marina is home to some very large yachts.  The staff was at the dock ready to help us tie up, and they were incredibly friendly and courteous; it didn’t matter that we were probably the smallest boat in the place.

Condo near boat

Condo near boat

IO at Old Port Marina, N Palm Beach, FL

IO at Old Port Marina, N Palm Beach, FL

We checked in at the marina office, located just inside the entryway of the Sandpiper’s Cove Restaurant and bar, which also houses a small café and gift shop. Here we learned of their shuttle service and met “Ed” the driver.  We immediately arranged for a pickup in the morning to take us to the closes Catholic Church for 9:00 am mass.  All this was coordinated by terrific marina staff who also presented us with a bottle of wine; one of the many perks to staying at this first-class marina.

Mark immediately got to work at washing the boat as it was covered with salt while Denise opted for doing a few loads of laundry. In the process she checked out the adjoining fitness center and met “Greg”, a guy from Memphis who keeps his Hatteras sport fishing boat* in this marina and has for 17 years.  They chatted for a while before she headed back to the boat with the clothes all folded.

Copper Leader - Greg's boat

Copper Leader – Greg’s boat

In the afternoon Denise went for a walk along the docks and ran into Barry where they chatted for a bit until Barry had to go back to work as the owner’s family was onboard the yacht for the weekend. We made plans to try and get together either later that day or the next. We hung around our boat and met some of the other boaters on our pier, including Karen & Fred Sage from Newport News, VA on their Catalina 47 sailboat named “Southerly II”.  They were very friendly and really enjoyed talking with them. There were several other boats that came into slips near us, but we really did not have a chance to get to talk with anyone else, except the couple on “October Moon” – a sailboat in the slip next to ours, but whom we did not share boat cards with, and therefore cannot remember their names.

The marina is in a gated community that includes several high-rise condominium buildings, as well as the restaurant and several offices for yacht brokers. Nearby, but not close is PGA Blvd and A1A that has everything from a Publix, CVS, West Marine and other similar stores.  There is also a Duffy’s Sports Bar, Carrabbas, Bonefish Grill and other eateries, but we didn’t want to go to a chain for dinner.  Without a car we were limited so we chose to visit the Sandpiper restaurant at the marina; it was convenient and came with a good review.  Mark got a Cesar Salad with Salmon and Denise got a roasted beet and goat cheese with grilled shrimp.  The food was good and the service excellent so we too would recommend the restaurant.

Sunday (4/10) – Old Port Cove Marina, North Palm Beach – We got up in time to make our 8:30 am appointment with Ed, who shuttled us to “St. Paul of the Cross” for the 9:00 am mass. This is a lovely church and is one of the “Doors of Mercy” churches we have been to since the start of the “Year of Mercy” announced by Pope Francis.  The church was less than 3 miles from the marina, so we arrived quite early and had a chance to take a few pictures:

St Paul of The Cross

St Paul of The Cross

St Paul of The Cross

St Paul of The Cross

Doors of Mercy

Doors of Mercy

Font at St. Paul of the Cross

Font at St. Paul of the Cross

Alter - St. Paul of The Cross

Altar – St. Paul of The Cross

Stained Glass Stations of the Cross

Stained Glass Stations of the Cross

After mass we walked around the western area of the marina, including a section where there were several 100+ foot yachts and a bunch of other boats that were being offered by yacht brokers.

Mega Yachts in west docks

Mega Yachts in west docks

Condo buildings at Old Port Marina

Condo buildings at Old Port Marina

We had also been in communication with Barry who said we could come look at his owner’s yacht*.  It is an 85-foot Berger that is old (circa 1980’s) and in need of interior updating. But, it is a classic and he loves driving it.  We chatted with him and met Stan, the CIA-trained chef that is also full-time crew for this boat.  They talked of their jobs and the owners and we gained some amazing insight into how the “other half” lives.

Denise & Capt. Barry on the Berger

Denise & Capt. Barry on the Berger

The Berger boat

The Berger boat

Barry also told us about one of the mega-yachts* in the marina we had seen; that it was owned by the DeVos family (co-founder of Amway, and current owners of Orlando Magic, Amway Arena, and the RDV Center). It was an amazing morning and we thoroughly enjoyed it.

*Note: We are intentionally not sharing the names of these boats in order to protect the privacy of the owners.

In the afternoon we hung out at the boat and watched The Master’s Golf tournament, while working on this blog post and talking with friends and family. We had decided we were not up for a walk to go out for dinner, but had not taken anything out of the freezer for dinner. So we opted for a pizza and calzone from the marina restaurant’s “express” café. After a 40 minute wait, Mark went up to pick up our order and we ate a very late dinner. Unfortunately, Denise’s calzone was mostly pure dough and only a quarter of it contained any of the filling.  It was not very good and we would NOT recommend the café for dinner.

Here are some other pictures of the area:

Old Port Cove Marina facitilites

Old Port Cove Marina facilities

Old Port Cove Marina Capts Lounge

Old Port Cove Marina Capts Lounge

Laundry facitilty

Laundry facitilty

Monday (4/11) – Peck Lake, Hobe Sound – South of Stuart, FL – Knowing the Captain wanted to get an early start so we could meet a fuel truck at a private marina a few miles up the ICW, Denise got out for a run as the sky was just getting light.  She ran out of the gated complex and down US1 and back, taking in all the shopping center sights we had missed.  Shortly after returning, Barry came aboard for a pre-arranged tour of our boat and we enjoyed chatting again until it was time for us to go.

We hated to leave this very nice marina and the terrific staff. It is first-class all the way, with floating docks, moveable cleats, great facilities, and close to many amenities.  Since it is close to Lake Worth inlet, there is a high probability we will come back here.

We left the dock with the intention of stopping to meet the fuel truck and take on 100+ gallons of diesel. However, when we approached the area, the small dock was totally occupied by the sport fishing boat that was the primary buyer of the fuel, and there was no real place for us to tie up to.  Additionally, the fuel truck had broken down and was just arriving.  We would have to wait for the other boat to get their fuel, and as they were taking on a lot more than us, it was going to be at least a 45 minute wait. Oh if only we would have known…..we would not have left Old Port Marina so soon.

However, we decided the wait for fuel to save a few dollars was not worth it, and continued north on the ICW through the rest of Palm Beach county. Again we passed a few homes not quite as large as the ones further South, but these were still quite nice.

At one point we saw a Grand Banks coming towards us that had lowered the canopy on their fly bridge so they could get under more bridges without requiring an opening.  We had commented that they were smart to do this when they passed and we noticed the boat name: “Patriot” from Mobile, AL.  It was about then that we realized it was our Looper friends Chuck & Vicki Stapleton whom we met in Norfolk and whom we last saw in Mobile where they crossed their wake.  We chatted on the VHF for a bit and learned they are headed to the Bahamas if the weather holds for a good Gulf-Stream crossing in a day or so. Otherwise, we may see them up the east coast.  What a small world!

We cruised past more beautiful homes and into Jupiter, passing a Wyndham resort along the way – causing Denise to think of her running friend Susan M. who works for Wyndham.

Jupiter area home

Jupiter area home

Jupiter area home

Jupiter area home

Jupiter Home

Jupiter Home

Jupiter area homes

Jupiter area homes

Jupiter homes

Jupiter homes

Admiral's cove near Jupiter

Admiral’s cove near Jupiter

Jupiter Home

Jupiter Home

Osprey's home near Jupiter

Osprey’s home near Jupiter

Wyndham Harbourside

Wyndham Harbourside

Wyndham Harbourside

Wyndham Harbourside

Just beyond this point is Jupiter Island Park and then the ICW takes a turn east on the Loxahatchee River, and then turns north around the inlet. It was really windy, but clear and we had a chance to get some pictures of the Jupiter Lighthouse as we went by.

Jupiter Lighthouse

Jupiter Lighthouse

Jupiter Inlet

Jupiter Inlet

After the turn north we entered the Indian River and cruised past Jonathan Dickenson State Park to our west, and some very nice old-Florida homes to our East. Eventually we came to Peck Lake, which is part of the Hobe Sound National Wildlife Refuge, and our intended anchoring spot for the night. As we arrived early in the day, we had an opportunity to find a great spot that would buffer us from the East wind, and set anchor without issue.  There were already a few boats in the anchorage, but it is large and there was plenty of space for even more.

IO at Peck Lake

IO at Peck Lake

All morning long we had heard the calls by the Coast Guard who were in search of passengers from a vessel offshore from St. Lucie inlet that had ended up in the water. All mariners were requested to keep a sharp lookout and assist if possible. As there had also been numerous small craft weather alerts, we were concerned even though we were in the ICW and not offshore. Around mid-morning the “pan-pan” had been cancelled and shortly thereafter we heard on the news that the Coast Guard had rescued a mariner.

The eastern shore of the anchorage is a mangrove island that has a sandy path that leads directly to a beautiful beach on the Atlantic. In the afternoon when the winds died down, we launched the dinghy and cruised over to the island to explore.

Path to the beach

Path to the beach

Park welcome sign

Park welcome sign

First we met “Dan” who runs a local paddleboard business, mainly for guests at Loblolly– a marina/condo complex on the western shore of Peck Lake.  He gave us a brief history lesson of the area including the naming of Peck Lake, and then told us about the rescue earlier in the day.  The surviving mariner was rescued not but a few hundred yards from where we were standing, and he had witnessed the helicopter land on the beach.

Paddleboard rentals

Paddleboard rentals

Paddleboard "Dan"

Paddleboard “Dan”

We left Dan for a walk to the beach and found that it was mostly deserted. There were a few other people in the water, but for the most part it was like having our own private island.  We walked along the shore for about half a mile, picking up seashells when the still thunderous surf allowed.

Atlantic Ocean - towards St. Lucie Inlet

Atlantic Ocean – towards St. Lucie Inlet

DSCN1946c

Soon we came upon a dead Portuguese Man-O-War, took pictures of it, and decided to turn around and head back.

Portuguese Man-O-War

Portuguese Man-O-War

We spotted some small jelly fish in the sand, and combined with the rough surf and cool water temperatures made us not want to venture into the water.  So we headed back to Peck Lake and the dinghy.

From there we cruised over to the Loblolly marina and see what else was there. Here we discovered several two-story condo buildings surrounding the marina that was full of high end boats.  Although not the mega yachts of Old Port, there was still plenty of wealth in this area and it was apparent by the types of boats, and their hailing ports.

By this time we were ready for our requisite happy hour, so we headed back to the boat for showers and a cool refreshment. While relaxing before dinner we saw a tug go by that reminded us of many we had seen along our Loop adventure. For some reason this just looked so out-of-place here in Peck Lake, but seeing it brought back a flood of happy memories. It was also about this time that we heard the whistle of a passing train; the first of several we would hear throughout the night.  It too brought back thoughts of the Hudson River and Erie Canal towns where the sound was a constant for so many days.

Passing tug at Peck Lake

Passing tug at Peck Lake

We watched a beautiful sunset and then prepared for dinner. We had taken leftovers out of the freezer, so all we had to do was crank up the generator and presto, we had a 15 minute microwaveable feast!

Peck Lake Anchorage

Peck Lake Anchorage

Peck Lake anchorage

Peck Lake anchorage

Sunset at Peck Lake

Sunset at Peck Lake

Tuesday (4/12) – Mariners Cay Marina – Stuart, FL – Today marks our 366th day on the Loop (one official Leap year), and it started like many before it; Denise was up early waiting on Mark to wake.  Just like many mornings at anchor, she wished he would hurry and wake up so she could turn on the generator and make a pot of coffee!  Finally he woke up and she disturbed what would otherwise have been a very peaceful anchorage.  During the night the wind had picked up and Mark had to let out more anchor chain, but this morning things were incredibly calm and we saw a terrific sunrise.

Sunrise on Peck Lake

Sunrise on Peck Lake

While enjoying the cup of coffee, Denise got caught up on the morning news and learned of the boating catastrophe that had played out the day before. Apparently the boat had been reported missing on Sunday as they had not reported in to family.  The boat was offshore and began taking on water; 4 people were aboard and all but one had perished, including a 9-year old boy and his father.  The only survivor was in a state of shock when rescued and taken to a nearby hospital.  There are a lot of details of the story that have mariners scratching their head, but mainly everyone wants to know why you would take a small boat offshore when such weather conditions exist.

We left the anchorage and headed the short distance to Stuart, passing several park areas along the way including the St. Lucie Inlet State Preserve, and the Twin Rivers Park.

We originally intended to anchor in an area known as Manatee Pocket. This is just off the ICW and the St. Lucie River where many mariners queue up to go through the Okeechobee waterway, and there are several marinas, homes with private docks, and a hotel resort (Pirate’s Cove).  It is quite congested and we found that both anchorage areas were pretty full. Having anchored out the night before, we decided to try and get into a marina.  As luck would have it Mariner’s Cay Marina had an available slip, so we pulled in and tied up before anyone knew we had arrived.

We immediately met Joy, the woman in the boat two slips down from us who claimed she did not even hear us come in. She and her husband Steve are on their Fleming 55’ (“Meandering Joy”) and are from Athens, GA.  We spoke with her briefly and learned that our Looper friends on “Patriot” had been in the slip between us the night before.  Again – small world.

After we got the boat settled and checked into the marina office, we ate lunch and Denise went to work on finishing this blog post while Mark washed the boat; it does get salty even when cruising in the ICW.

In the afternoon, a PDQ (motor catamaran) came into the slip next to ours and we recognized them from the Peck Lake anchorage. Bill and Fran on “Easy Riders” are from Ocean City, Maryland and are preparing their boat to be put up in storage for the summer at the Hinckley Yacht Services right here in Manatee Pocket. This seems so strange to most boaters that they would put their boats in the water during the summer, but it is not unusual for those wishing to not be on the water during hurricane season.

"Easy Riders"

“Easy Riders”

In the evening we were invited aboard Joy and Steve’s boat (“Meandering Joy”) for cocktails as they wanted to pick our brains about doing the Loop as they too would like to do it. We talked for a long time as they knew several people we have met on the Loop, including Kathy & Kenny on “No Zip Code”.  It was way past dinner when we got back to the boat, but Joy had put out some appetizers and we didn’t feel the need to eat more. Tomorrow we will leave and head to Ft. Pierce for two nights.

Meandering Joy

“Meandering Joy”

Here are a few pictures from our short stay at this marina:

IO at Mariners Cay Marina

IO at Mariners Cay Marina

Mariners Cay marina pool

Mariners Cay marina pool

Mariner's Cay marina

Mariner’s Cay marina

Stay tuned for more adventures!

Some comments about South Florida – from South Miami, Miami Beach, Ft. Lauderdale and north to Palm Beach, the amount of people who live in this very densely populated area scares us and is a real travesty to us natives. Overdevelopment has ruined a spectacular area and continues on without any resistance.  If there is ever a direct hit by an Andrew or Katrina-sized hurricane, no insurance company will be able to survive the loss.  Florida residents will be hit with huge homeowners’ insurance bills to bail them all out as there would be record losses.

And then there is the traffic, water, and infrastructure issues; too much and not enough now (respectively) and will only get worse. Don’t get us wrong, we are not against development per se. But it is the destruction of a single or two-story building and replacing it with a 20-story, 500 unit high rise that has us so baffled. And there are hundreds of these in this area, with more being built every day. The sad part is that there is no cry for people to stop building and it just continues on and on. Thank goodness for our state and local parks along the way, or we would not see anything but cement in this state that we call home.

Company in Key Largo!

It is easy to see how people can come to the FL Keys and find they are still here months later. We have been enjoying the relaxing and laid back atmosphere here, even while trying to do some work. It is so different than the rest of the Loop where we were moving every two or three days.  As with all of this trip, the weather has dictated what we can and can’t do.  These last few weeks we have been preparing for and/or entertaining guests, and made a quick trip home to take care of some client engagements.

Here is the latest activities of our Great Loop Adventure:

Friday (3/18) – Key Largo, FL – We slept in very late as we both were very restless all night. There was a lot of noise all night long coming from Sharkey’s, and in the early morning hours there were guys talking just outside our boat. Evidence of their presence was found in the morning as they left a strewn of cups and bottles along the wall next to the boat, which we picked up and put in the trash can 20 feet away.

Mark worked almost all day while Denise wrote and published the latest blog update. Later she found a local nail salon and got a pedicure.

For dinner we ventured to the Key Largo Fishery; sister restaurant to the Key’s Fisheries in Marathon. We got very lucky and timed it well as right after we ordered a bus load of young people showed up and all 40 of them overwhelmed the kitchen.  We were lucky our fish salad and sandwich came out just before they placed their order.  The food was good and it was nice to sit outside under the canopied deck and watch the boats in the harbor.

The Fisheries

The Fisheries

Dusk at The Fisheries

Dusk at The Fisheries

Dinner at The Fisheries

Dinner at The Fisheries

The Fisheries

Having fun at The Fisheries

In the evening, Mark began a project for a client that can only be done on the weekend; deleting old records from their database. He stayed up very late to do this so that he could as much done as possible.

Saturday (3/19) – Key Largo, FL – Denise managed to get in a 6-mile run through the neighborhood of Port Largo, despite the heat; it was 76˚ when she started at 7:00 am.  Summer has arrived!  Not only did she miss the cooler weather, she also misses her running buddies, especially with these longer runs.

Although we originally were going to blow up the paddleboard and take it out, we began first doing boat chores, and then one thing led to another and we had spent the whole day working on the boat. Denise de-rusted and polished all the stainless steel on the stern part of the boat including the dinghy davits and the hardware.  Mark cleaned lots of other areas, including all the grime that had accumulated on the power cords. However, after 2 pm he had to begin deleting records again, but he did not stay up as late as the night before.

Needless to say we were tired from lack of sleep and all the work on the boat.  So we opted for dinner on the boat and watching the movie “I’ll See You in My Dreams”, then crashed at a reasonable hour. Amazing the music and crowds from Sharkey’s didn’t seem to bother us.

Sunday (3/20) – Key Largo, FL – We started the day visiting one more new catholic church; St. Justin Martyr on the north part of Key Largo.

Justin the Martyr

St. Justin Martyr

Justin the Martyr fountain

St. Justin Martyr fountain

It was a simple church made with local materials and many of the stain-glass features are designed with the sea in mind.  We returned to the boat and hunkered down with reading and office type tasks. The wind had picked up and it was really blowing, making it difficult to do anything, and not good conditions for taking the paddleboard or dinghy out on the water.  Plus, Mark had to finish the deleting records project for the weekend.

In the afternoon, Pam and Elaine (Mark’s sister and mother) arrived. Pam is on spring break this week and Elaine wanted to go to Miami, so Pam agreed to drive her there and then down to visit with us for a few days. Along the way they stopped in their old neighborhood of Miami Shores and also to visit Ray’s gravesite (Mark’s dad).

Pam & Mark

Pam & Mark

Elaine

Elaine

We had a chance to visit with them for a while before we headed out to dinner at Skipper’s Dockside Grill.  We had to wait a little for a table this time, but once seated we enjoyed our meal.  The women all got some version of their fish tacos and Mark got a salad with a grilled fish topper. Of course it was way more food then we all could handle and we were stuffed from eating so much.

We attempted to watch the Live Fox TV Show “The Passion”, but were unable to stream it and ended up introducing Pam to the first few episodes of the NetFlix “House of Cards”. We have already watched the entire series and now have her hooked.

Monday (3/21) – Key Largo, FL – Again this morning we woke up to very high winds and overcast skies, and a little rain.  None of the dive boats were moving this morning, and we saw few fishing boats leave as it was just not great conditions.  Eventually, we did venture a dinghy ride with Pam, taking her through the canals around the Port Largo area and to see all the houses.  We also spotted numerous iguanas who had climbed out onto rocks or cement ledges to get warmed by the now partly sunny day.  The winds were still blowing and with it came a cool air that filled in and temperatures dropped for what will most likely be the last cool snap we will see.

In the afternoon we decided to venture to some of the local places in the car. We went to the Diver’s Direct store and a few other spots in Key Largo so Pam could find a few “souvenirs” for her adult children. We drove up to Islamorada and were going to venture further South, but just over the Snake Creek Bridge we got stuck in a major traffic jam and decided to head back to the boat for showers.

We had enjoyed our dinner with Pete & Pam so much at the Fish House Encore, we made reservations to take Pam and Elaine there for dinner. We wanted to go to the Bayside Grille for a glorious sunset, but the weather was not cooperating and because it turned cool we opted for indoor dining at Fish House Encore. We were not disappointed and had another terrific meal at this fine place.  However, tonight we were smart and chose ‘to-go’ boxes so we could have a second meal later in the week.

Tuesday (3/22) – Key Largo, FL – We woke up to news of another terrorist bombing; this one in Brussels where we spent some time in 2003 with some of Mark’s Co-workers at MAPICS.  Our hearts were heavy for the families who lost loved ones and for those who were injured by these evil people.

Denise managed to coax Pam into a 4-mile run just as the sun was coming up. It was cool and quite a difference from Saturdays swelter. Pam needed to start thinking about her summer training as she is running the Marine Corp Marathon in October and Denise enjoyed the companionship (naturally).

Denise & Pam - post run selfie

Denise & Pam – post run selfie

We ran through the Port Largo neighborhood and came across two women who were driving their “classic” golf cart. It was a funny sight and nothing like we had seen, including the high end (Cadillac) ones on Boca Grande.

Golf Cart - front

Golf Cart – front

Golf Cart - back

Golf Cart – back

Shortly after getting back the boat and getting breakfast, Pam and Elaine left to head back home. It was great to have them aboard and to see them.

After they left, Mark did some work for a client and Denise addressed scheduling and logistics information with the Deland client for work there 3/28 week. We also did a quick bit of laundry and did some reading as well.  The wind was still blowing and it was a bit cool still so we did not venture past he marina for the whole day.

Wednesday (3/23) – Key Largo, FL – It has been really nice having our own car with us as we can come and go as we please without much logistical planning like we had to do along the rest of our Loop adventure.  Today was one of those days we really appreciated this as we had a few errands to run, some of them were spontaneous.

For example we had been wanting to go to the West Marine store here, so we did. It is quite a large store and had has a lot of clothing, including a lot for women which we have only seen in one other WM store and that was in Pensacola. We also ran by Publix to pick up only 2 or 3 things; something we would have lived without had we not had our own car.

When we were back at the marina, Mark helped Tom (“Gambrinus“) with his Wi-Fi connections as he had been having trouble getting his internet going. As usual, Mark had him up and running in no time and he was grateful. He later reported that he also cleaned the corroded connections and got much better service as well.

For dinner we made delicious hamburgers and cooked them on the grill. Then, after watching the news we started to watch the movie “Trip”, a British film that was sometime funny, but also boring in parts. Mark gave up after about 30 minutes and went to bed, but Denise stayed up to see the end.  What a waste as it ended anti-climatically and then she couldn’t sleep.

It didn’t help that the outside temperature was too cool for the AC to be put on, and too hot for having the boat all closed up. Therefore we had the boat hatches open. Add to this that Sharkey’s musician du jour was louder than usual and it made for a tough night of sleeping.

Thursday (3/24) – Key Largo, FL – Again this morning the wind was blowing, but it had calmed down a bit. Unfortunately, during the night it rained and was threatening to rain again.  Mark had closed all the hatches, but now it was hot again so he turned on the AC.

We spent almost all day working on emails, planning on the Bahamas trip, and readying for our next round of company; Denise’s brother, cousin & family were headed south.

In the late afternoon our company showed up. Elizabeth (cousin) and her family were staying in the nearby Holiday Inn (part of the overall resort property) and Robert (brother) was staying on our boat.  After a short visit on our boat, we took everyone to Bayside Grill so they could witness a spectacular sunset as we had when our friends introduced us to this place.  We ate dinner upstairs while waiting for the sunset, then went out to the beach area and pier.  Unfortunately, it was too cloudy to see a green-flash-making sunset, but it was beautiful nonetheless and we enjoyed the time.

Daniel and Cousin Robert at Bayside Grille

Daniel and Cousin Robert at Bayside Grille

Friday (3/25) – Key Largo, FL – Our goal today was to have fun and try to secure a fishing boat for Robert to go out fishing with Daniel on one of the nearby reefs.  Most of the places nearby are fishing charters and were booked up, but we did some research and identified a few places to call in the upper Keys. Unfortunately, they were sold out as well, or the boats were too big/small for what was wanted.

In the morning Ken, Elizabeth and Daniel went on the Key Largo Princess II Glass bottom boat ride. The boat took them to a nearby reef to see the coral and fish. Although they reported it was a fun time, the lower level of the boat (where the glass bottom was) ended up being a bit warm and stuffy and they were glad for the upper deck and fresh air.

Key Largo Princess II passes by our Boat - Yaniglos family aboard

Key Largo Princess II passes by our Boat – Cousin and family aboard on the top deck on the way out to reef

Elizabeth, Daniel and Ken on Key Largo Princess II

Elizabeth, Daniel and Ken on Key Largo Princess II

In the afternoon, Denise went with Robert to Islamorada and secured a boat for tomorrow, while Ken & Daniel went swimming in the Holiday Inn pool. Elizabeth and Mark got their quiet time.

Later on we got the dinghy out and took Daniel for a ride in the canals around Port Largo. He was so excited when Mark showed him how to drive it and then allowed him to be the Captain and drive. He did a great job and was so proud. We have now hooked another relative on the joys of boating!

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Because of our different schedules throughout the day, we all were not hungry at the same time. Our company had a late lunch and were not up for dinner, so Mark and I went over to Sharkey’s for a quick bite to eat, and Ken & Elizabeth joined us a bit later.

Elizabeth & Ken at Sharkey's

Elizabeth & Ken at Sharkey’s

While we were dining, Robert & Daniel went fishing near the marina. Denise showed them a spot on the last street in Port Largo that has a small shoreline on the Atlantic and is adjacent to the mangroves.  They actually caught a few small fish; one of which they brought back for bragging rights and to be used for bait. It was a great way to end a busy and fun-filled day!

Daniel and bait fish

Daniel and bait fish

Saturday (3/26) – Key Largo, FL – Denise started the day with a run (probably the last) around the Port Largo area – and it was a HOT 78˚! She now will not complain too much about the warm and humid 72˚ mornings in Central FL.

Ken, Daniel and Robert had left early for their fishing trip out to one of the reefs while Mark slept in. Denise & Elizabeth got together for breakfast and spent most of the morning chatting and drinking coffee on the back of the boat.

It wasn’t long before we heard from the guys who had headed back in because it was so rough and seasickness had set in with some of the crew. By lunch time they all had returned to Island Office and we made sandwiches to stave off the nausea.

Robert was in need of a nap, so we left him aboard while the rest of us headed to the pool. It was a hot day and the frozen drinks at the Tiki bar were refreshing, not to mention the cool pool water. We spent most of the afternoon talking out by the pool and enjoying the day.  Mark was deep into his Tom Clancy book which weighed about as much as our new Ultra anchor….there is not getting it away from him now. Eventually Robert joined us to cool off and play in the pool with Daniel.

Daniel's shark squirting bathing suit

Daniel’s shark squirting bathing suit

Daniel flipping into the pool

Daniel flipping into the pool

Cousins Denise & Elizabeth

Cousins Denise & Elizabeth

Robert & Daniel

Robert & Daniel

We had decided to go to Snapper’s for dinner; Elizabeth had eaten there her first time in Key Largo many years ago, and wanted to return. We managed to secure a table for 6 on the outside deck; no small feat on a Saturday night during the busy time.  It was a good meal and we had fun, and of course had to purchase t-shirts from this Key Largo landmark.

Snapper's for dinner

Snapper’s for dinner

Robert, Ken & Elizabeth at Snapper's

Robert, Ken & Elizabeth at Snapper’s

We all agreed it had been a long and fun-filled day, but we needed to get some rest and so we retired early to our respective quarters.

Easter Sunday (3/27) – Key Largo, FL – Although not sunrise service, we all were up early and we returned to St. Justin Martyr Catholic Church for the 8:00 am service.

Easter - Robert, Mark, Denise, Elizabeth, Ken & Daniel

Easter Sunday at St. Justin Martyr Catholic Church Robert, Mark, Denise, Elizabeth, Ken & Daniel

Although it was crowded, we were early enough to secure seats together for the mass.  The priest was familiar; we had seen him at the church in Marathon and he rotates between the FL Keys churches as needs arise during the peak (winter) season. Not a bad gig for a guy who otherwise lives in Chicago!

After church we went back to the boat and packed our car for the trip to drive home. Robert, Elizabeth, Ken & Daniel were also headed back to Winter Park, but would take the scenic route home, eventually arriving 3 hours after us. Mark had an early flight out to Ohio the next morning and we were anxious to get home.

Interlude: Monday through Wednesday (3/28 – 3/30)Home to Winter Park, FL – Denise & Mark went to client visits (Deland & Akron, OH, respectively).

Thursday (3/31) – Key Largo, FL – We left Winter Park to make the drive back to Key Largo in a rental car, leaving our own car at home. We will miss the convenience of having a car at our beckon call, but will adjust as we did for the rest of the Loop adventure.

Driving down to Key Largo we made the decision to not go to the Bahamas, but to take our time going home and enjoy the beautiful cruising grounds of Florida. There were many factors contributing to this decision, including a not great weather window over the next 7 -10 days, and we did not want to get stuck in Bimini or the Berry Islands for weeks. We also had a lot of work coming in from clients and were concerned about our telecom/internet access while enjoying the Bahamas. Also on the drive down we spoke with our friends on Endoxi & Sassified – whom we were going to travel with to Bimini.  We had learned that they had decided not to venture across the Gulf Stream, and that became the catalyst which reinforced our decision.

Interestingly, once we made this decision, we seemed to begin enjoying the adventure again. Without realizing it, we had both been stressing a little bit about this part of the adventure. We really wanted to go back to the Bahamas, and we were looking forward to cruising in this boat. However, we were receiving lots of little obstacles (“signs”) that we needed to rethink this plan.

Now that we changed our minds, we began planning for the last leg of our great loop adventure. While we were home we had ordered and received our Gold Looper flag, which we will proudly display when we arrive in Merritt Island sometime in early May.

Once we unloaded the car and returned the rental car back to Avis, we caught back up with Pam & Pete (”Endoxi”) and Sharri & Rodney (“Sassified”) for one last dinner in Key Largo. We made plans to head to Miami together on Saturday and shared respective marina locations.

Skipper's dinner with Sassified & Endoxi

Skipper’s dinner with Sassified & Endoxi

Sometime while attempting to pay for our meal, Mark’s AMEX credit card went missing.  We all recollected his placing it in the receipt binder for the waitress, but she returned without it.  As this part of the restaurant sits out over the docks and water, it is highly possible it fell through the separation of the floorboards and into the water.  In any case, it now means we (once again) will have to replace a credit card at a time when we will be moving every one or two days.

Tomorrow we will leave Key Largo and head to Miami, staying one night at an anchorage on Card Sound. Until then, the adventure continues!

Here are some other pictures from Marina Del Mar and surrounding area:

Mailbox post - Port Largo Home

Mailbox post – Port Largo Home

Ocean Divers next to Sharkey's

Ocean Divers next to Sharkey’s

Marina Del Mar

Marina Del Mar

Kicking it up in Key Largo!

We moved the boat to Key Largo on March 1st to give us time in another part of the Keys.  This was our second choice location as we wanted to stay in Tavernier, but found the accommodations not as desirable as originally expected.

So, here is the latest of our adventures:

Tuesday (3/1) – Key Largo, FL – We left Marathon and headed north on the Gulf of Mexico into the FL Bay.  Here it is very shallow outside the channel, and there were several parts of it that were quite narrow. However, it is truly a spectacular place and a beautiful gift from our Creator.

Narrow Channel on FL Bay

Narrow Channel on FL Bay

Negotiating the FL Bay

Negotiating the FL Bay

Birds hanging out in FL Bay

Birds hanging out in FL Bay

We continued along this route until we reached Snake Creek.  Here we entered a rather narrow (read shoaling) channel and passed some beautiful homes and the Coast Guard Station.

Entrance to Snake Creek

Entrance to Snake Creek

Snake Creek Home

Snake Creek Home

Snake Creek Home

Snake Creek Home

Snake Creek Home

Snake Creek Home

Snake Creek Home

Snake Creek Home

USCG Station Snake Creek

USCG Station Snake Creek

We also saw some other amusing sights here:

Dink towing jet ski

Dink towing jet ski

Caboose in backyard on Snake Creek

Caboose in backyard on Snake Creek

Home on Snake Creek

Home on Snake Creek

We crossed under the (US1) bridge to the Atlantic Ocean side of the Keys and entered into Hawk’s Channel for the rest of the journey north.  It was a beautiful day to be on the water with sunny clear skies and calm seas.

US1 Bridge over Snake Creek

US1 Bridge over Snake Creek

Parasailing in Hawk's Channel

Parasailing in Hawk’s Channel

Cruising along the Atlantic side, we passed Plantation Key, Tavernier, and eventually Rodriquez Key – hoping to spot our friend Rodney’s house. Unfortunately, we were too far from shore to distinguish his place from the others.

Eventually we came to the markers for our turn out of Hawk’s Channel and make our way through the Port Largo Canal where the Marina Del Mar Resort (our marina) was located.

Entering Port Largo Canal

Entering Port Largo Canal

There was a long canal heading north with a blind left turn to the west that is known as “Crash Corner”.  This is mainly due to the large amount of commercial traffic (dive, sport fishing and sightseeing boats) that goes through here a bit fast, and they hog the narrow channel causing smaller craft to move out of the way. Unfortunately, there are boats tied up on both sides of the canal and there is nowhere to go.

Shortly after entering this canal, we ran into Pam & Pete (“Endoxi”) and Shari & Rodney (“Sassified”) who were out in their “Tavernier-resident” boat; a 25’ center console they use when they are down here every winter. (“Sassified” is currently sitting in a marina in Tavernier until they resume their Loop in April).

Rodney's boat - Port Largo Canal

Rodney’s boat – Port Largo Canal

It was fun to have them be our Key Largo “welcoming committee”.  Once we docked in the slip they came up beside us and we talked for a bit, making plans to have drinks and dinner together that night.

We had put the boat in the previously assigned slip, which is a side-tie along the wall with the canal on our other (Port) side.

IO at Marina Del Mar

IO at Marina Del Mar

This is literally the eastern-most slip and is the furthest from any of the resort facilities. Once we got the boat settled, we checked into the marina and attempted to get our “infrastructure” connected to the marina services.  Here we discovered the cable connection (for TV) for our slip did not work.  We also were unable to connect to the resort Wi-Fi, because we are so far from the office, and they do not have a repeater that would take the signal to this end of their marina.  This was a major issue for us on our Island Office, especially considering we are planning on being here for a whole month.  This place is way too expensive for this to not be available.  Dockmaster Brian said he would see what he can do to get us what we need, but it would probably be in the morning before we had resolution.

We took showers and then met up with Pam, Pete, Shari & Rodney at Bayside Grill; a bar/restaurant on the Florida Bay side about 2 miles from our marina.

Bayside Grille

Bayside Grille

Bayside Grille

Bayside Grille

Bayside Grill

Bayside Grill

Here we had a few beers with them and witnessed a gorgeous sunset at a very fun and popular place, for which they are regulars.

Sunset at Bayside Grill

Sunset at Bayside Grill

Afterwards, we all drove to Skipper’s Dockside restaurant which is located in our resort complex.  We had a great dinner and enjoyed their great company.  We also made plans to get together to go over charts of the Bahamas when we get back from our short trip home next week.

When we returned back from dinner, we were greeted to live entertainment courtesy of “Sharkey’s”; a restaurant and bar located less than 500 feet from the bow of our boat. It is a lively place and the music is an every night occurrence, which has us even less comfortable with this place for a long stay.  Fortunately, tonight, the music ended around 10 pm and we were able to get to sleep without issue. It kind of helped that we kept the hatches closed as the night air was still cool.

Sharkey's

Sharkey’s

Wednesday (3/2) – Key Largo, FL – Denise started the day with a run in around the neighborhood surrounding the resort.  It is mostly residential unless you head out towards US1, then it becomes very commercial.  She opted to stay around the houses, even though it meant running up and down several streets just to get in the mileage.  There is a park nearby the marina, but she was uncertain as to how to enter as there is fence all around it, so it will have to be another adventure on another day.

In the morning, Mark met with the assistant dockmaster (Captain Joe) to see if we could get better service on the internet and the cable. We also asked if there was another possible slip in the marina, and he agreed to check into it all for us. Dockmaster Brian was off for the day.

After a short period of time he returned with bad news. There was no getting the cable tv hooked up and there is nothing he can do about the Wi-Fi signal.  He had also investigated the possibility of another slip, but reported that they were all reserved for by other incoming boaters.  While waiting on this news, Denise had walked the entire marina to investigate the potentially open slips on the other side of the water near the Marriott Courtyard. However the Wi-Fi signal was not any better there, so it was just as well that we didn’t have the option to move the boat.

In the afternoon we met Tom who is on the boat (“Gambrinus”) right behind us along the dock wall.

Tom - "Gambrinus"

Tom – “Gambrinus”

He is from Chicago but has been coming down here for the last 10 years, leaving his 36 foot sailboat in Charleston during the summer months. He gave us the low down on this resort and their lack of caring attitude about fixing things.  Although the grounds are pretty and the old buildings and pool are well maintained, the docks are another story.  However, he says it is still the best place in the area, especially considering the fees include access to the three pools, fitness center, free breakfasts, and has a good restaurant onsite.

Once again we started to seek out other marinas in the area, but none of which had as good a review on Active Captain as this one. One we considered was the Pilot House Marina, located just south of us.  We had run into a Looper who was walking the docks in our marina, and he had his boat there.  He said it was a great place, with plenty of protection and a good restaurant onsite as well, and we should consider it.

So after dinner because it was dark, we drove to check out that marina. It didn’t take us long to realize that if we moved, we would not be gaining anything except Wi-Fi and cable TV access. Like Marina Del Mar, the restaurant has nightly entertainment and it too blares through the marina. However, we thought it was much louder than what we currently experience.  Additionally, the marina facilities and the neighborhood was not near as nice as where we currently are, and Denise didn’t feel it was as comfortable an area for early morning runs.

One of the other things we had to consider was what else is there to do in the area. We have family coming to join us later in the month and we wanted to make sure they had things to do in the area. The Marina Del Mar has a lot to offer with three pools, closeness to local attractions and other activities (dive boats, fishing boats, glass bottom boat charters, and the original “African Queen”), not to mention all within walking distance of our boat.

So we returned to our boat with the Sharkey’s “entertainer of the night” serenading the patrons and keeping us up to nearly 11:00 pm. We decided we liked this place better and would live with the music.  We also decided that we would up the Hotspot plan for the month and use it for our internet access.  We would live with the no cable issue, using the Hotspot for those must-see shows.  Since we were going home on Sunday for the week, it wasn’t that bad after all, and better than all the other choices we had checked out.

Thursday (3/3) – Key Largo, FL – We had set aside today for us to both get some work done. Denise had a lot to do to prep for a workshop she would be delivering in Jacksonville on Tuesday (the main reason for going home on Sunday), and Mark needed to work directly on the database for a client. However, shortly after breakfast Mark suggested that he wash the boat to get the salt off of it, put on the new anchor, and then we should just head home a few days earlier than planned.  We know we have good internet at home and we both had a lot of work to do and needed to stay focused – there were just too many distractions here (go figure).

So Mark washed the boat, then we installed the new anchor.

Installing new anchor

Installing new anchor

We then packed up the car with things to take home, (like all our cool weather clothes), readied the boat for our absence, and solicited Tom to keep an eye on it until we returned. We made the 4.5 hour drive back to Winter Park, missing all the traffic in Miami and hitting plenty of it in Orlando – the one thing we don’t miss when on the boat.

Interlude: Friday (3/4) – Monday (3/14) – Home in Winter Park, FL to work with clients, celebrate Denise’s birthday, and to visit with family and friends.

Monday (3/14) – Key Largo – We left Winter Park much later than planned, causing us to arrive in Key Largo just in time for dinner. One of the reasons for the delay was that Mark had sold our old anchor and the buyer was in Pompano Beach. In order to save money on shipping and because we were headed right by the buyer’s office, we agreed to deliver the anchor directly to him.  It worked ok, but caused us to hit a lot more traffic in South Miami but we were happy to have sold and delivered the old anchor.

Once we unpacked the car and stowed our gear on the boat, we walked the 500 feet to check out the food at “Sharkey’s”. We found the food to be good and reasonably priced, not to mention terribly convenient. It was our waiter who suggested and provided the internet passwords to a few Wi-Fi connections we were getting in the restaurant; some were from neighboring locations. We had previously picked them up on the boat, but had been unable to connect as we didn’t know their passwords.

Once back on the boat we were able to successfully log into the Key West Inn Wi-Fi and got a very strong signal. Bingo! We were in business and now able to work, as well as stream the (mostly news) shows we wanted to watch. A lack of cable TV was not so important now.

The Key West Inn is located just to our North, across the canal from us. The rooms overlook a Jet Ski Rental business, as well as several side-tie slips with boats in them.

Key West Inn and Jet Ski Rental

Key West Inn and Jet Ski Rental

Further up the canal towards the main part of the resort is one of several dive boat charters in the area, as well as all the other tourist boats for hire. All day long we get to watch them come and go with their paying customers, usually starting around 6:00 am. The dive and fishing boats usually go out on ½ day adventures, which means we get to see them come and go several times.

Fishing boat leaving marina and heading past our boat

Fishing boat leaving marina – heading past our boat

There is also a big two-level glass-bottom boat that ferries people out to see the reefs without them having to get into the water.  This is clearly the biggest boat and takes up the majority of the canal when it comes through; kicking up a good wake in the process.

Glass Bottom Boat leaving

Glass Bottom Boat leaving

Lastly is the “African Queen” – yes the original used in the movie “Key Largo” with Humphrey Bogart and Katherine Hepburn.  Although smaller than our boat, it comes so close to us we could reach out and touch it if we wanted to.

African Queen near our boat

African Queen near our boat

All of this is truly a circus and gives us something to watch and laugh about.

Tuesday (3/15) – Key Largo – This was a work day on our Island Office.  Denise spent the whole day getting the last blog updated and posted, while Mark worked with clients. All this while listening to iHeart radio and eventually watching election results.  It was nice to have a good Wi-Fi connection, finally.

Because we wanted to stay focused on our work and get it all done so we could play tomorrow, we opted for a quick dinner on board. We ate the last of the leftover Dion’s fried chicken we had in the freezer, and paired it up with some steamed broccoli and rice. When all our work was done, we went for a walk around the neighborhood and through the MDM complex.  Here are some pictures from our walk around the establishments near our boat:

Sign at Sharkey's

Sign at Sharkey’s

African Queen rental

African Queen rental

NOAA "dockmaster"

NOAA “dockmaster”

Sign outside of Sharkey's

Sign outside of Sharkey’s

Finally, we went back to the boat and retired while listening to a rocker banging on his guitar at Sharkey’s until almost midnight!

Wednesday (3/16) – Key Largo – Today was a very fun day in Key Largo.   After sleeping in until almost 7:00 am (very late for her), Denise went for a run around YMCA Park and the neighborhood near the marina known as Port Largo. She was already missing companionship of her running buddies from Winter Park and can’t wait to be able to run with them again soon.

After breakfast we did a few tasks aboard the boat, got caught up on emails, and then readied the dinghy for our morning adventure. We took off in it going up and down all the canals near Port Largo, taking in all the big and beautiful homes as well as some of the older (not-to-beautiful) homes.  It took us well over an hour just to do this area alone.

Homes in Port Largo canal

Homes in Port Largo canal

Home on Atl side - Port Largo Canal

Home on Atlantic Ocean side – Port Largo Canal

House on point at Port Largo entrance

House on point at Port Largo entrance

Then we left our area and went out into Hawk’s Channel to a series of canals south of us. There was only a slight wind so it wasn’t too choppy for the dinghy ride. We only had to slow down when a big boat passed us. There we cruised around other homes which were not as nice as Port Largo, but had some unusual architecture nonetheless.

House shaped like a boat

House shaped like a boat

Glass Bottom boat small

Small glass bottom boat

We also cruised to Pilot House Marina, now getting a chance to see it from the water and in daylight. As was true the night we drove there, we were not impressed and finally felt like we did make the better choice for our Key Largo stay. We also went by the Key Largo Fisheries – sister fish processing and restaurant to Keys Fisheries in Marathon.  We have been told they have a great lobster BLT here and we may just have to check it out before leaving the area.

Pilot House Marina fuel dock

Pilot House Marina fuel dock

Key Largo Fisheries

Key Largo Fisheries

We returned back to the boat in time for a late lunch and connected with Pete & Pam (“Endoxi”). We made plans to get together with them for dinner and for a review of our Bahamas plans.

After lunch we spent some time talking with Tom (“Gambrinus”) and meeting Canadians Tom & Julie Gates (“Outreach”) who spend all winter aboard their McGreggor 26’ sailboat here in Key Largo. Like in Marathon, there is a contingency of folks who come here every year to flee the cold weather of the north. Sounds like a great retirement plan!

We also did a little work; Mark helping a client with their system and Denise scheduling a series of (on-going) workshops for delivery in Deland, FL right after Easter. So, we will be going back home on 3/27 for Mark to fly to Ohio for a client, and Denise to go to Deland.  Hey, it is paying for our marina fees and we feel very lucky we have been able to juggle the client needs with our Great Loop adventure.

In the evening, Pam & Pete came and picked us up and took us to dinner at Fish House Encore.

Fish House Encore

Fish House Encore

Mark & Pete - Fish House

Mark & Pete – Fish House

Wall at Fish House Encore

Wall at Fish House Encore

The food was very good and patio dining outside under trees and lights made for a nice atmosphere. We were sorry that Shari & Rodney (“Sassified”) were unavailable to join us, but they had company in town and were already committed. After dinner we came back to the boat and went over charts and information we had on the Bahamas. We discussed our plans and we are hopeful we will be able to all make the Gulf Stream crossing together.

Of course we had background music courtesy of Sharkey’s, but for the first time it didn’t bother us. Either we are getting immune to it or it was quieter than usual as we both fell fast asleep by 10 pm!

Thursday (3/17) – Key Largo – Happy St. Patrick’s Day! – Another beautiful weather day in Key Largo and we stayed around the marina for most of the day working on this blog post and handling a few scheduling issues for work.  We also took care of a few travel items for the home-office that required attention by the end of the month, and we addressed a few client issues.

At one point Denise walked up to the resort office, and upon returning to the boat discovered a 3 foot iguana had decided to hitch a ride. There he sat on the front of the boat, and Mark (who was sitting in the boat facing forward) did not even see him.

Visiting Iguana

Visiting Iguana

So, together we managed to chase him off the boat. He jumped into the water and swam across the canal and climbed up on the shore near the Jet Ski rental place.  We watched as he made his way across the concrete pier and climbed up the stairs to the rental office.

Iguana on stairs

Iguana on stairs

There were 3 women who were trying on life vests for a Jet Ski rental and he climbed up right near them.

Gals renting Jet Skis

Gals renting Jet Skis – see iguana tail on top of stairs – they still hadn’t seen it yet.

Denise yelled to them that they “had company” and they finally saw the iguana. Their reaction was priceless! We were only sorry that we could not have caught a picture of it to share as it provided us with entertainment and laughter for about 15 minutes.  We never saw them get on the Jet Skis and think they got scared off.  Meanwhile, the iguana kept going towards a shed where he climbed up the chain link fence and disappeared on the roof.

Iguan climbs fence to roof

Iguana climbs fence to roof

Later in the afternoon we went to Publix to stock our boat for the Bahamas, taking advantage of the sale items. Mark was happy to see the “Family Size” of the Frito Scoops he loves on a BOGO, so he grabbed a bunch and pledged to get more before the week was out.  We have had difficulty finding this size in the Keys, even at the Wal-Marts in south Florida.  We also picked up a rotisserie chicken for dinner and headed back to the boat.

In the evening we had Tom (“Gambrinus”) aboard our boat for drinks, and to get to know him a little better. He has some great information about places up and down the east coast where he has personally anchored and shared some of it with us.

Cocktails aboard IO

Cocktails aboard IO

After he left, Denise cooked some asparagus and made a salad and we enjoyed the lemon rotisserie chicken.  It was a delicious meal!

That is all for now. Stay tuned for more adventures!

Marathon and more!

We started the month of February with a very quick trip home. During our visit we enjoyed spending time with Denise’s Aunt Judy who was visiting from New Hampshire, and celebrating the Catholic confirmation with Zachary Medei and his family. Additionally, Denise really enjoyed getting 3 days of running with her buddies in Winter Park.

We returned to the boat on Friday, 2/5 and have spent the entire month in Marathon. This has been very different than the rest of our Loop adventure as most of the time we have moved the boat every day or two – with a few exceptions for a week stay. In fact, we found more of our normal routine schedule took over and before you know it, a month had flown by.

So, here is the latest of our adventures from Marathon:

Saturday (1/30) – Marathon, FL – As usual, Denise woke up way before dawn, but today it was because of the noise coming from outside.  Eventually, she got up and ventured out to see where the blaring boom-box noise was coming from.  Come to find out it is from the fishing boats who were in line at the boat ramp near the yacht club.  They were all in queue which extended down the street and out onto US1, all in attempt to get their boats in the water, then grab one of the very limited parking spots for their vehicle and trailer.  By 5:00 am the lot was full and they were on their way to fish, but everyone on boats in MYC marina were awake.

Queuing up at city boat ramp

Queuing up at city boat ramp

Boat ramp queue

Boat ramp queue

Mark got Bob (Port Captain) to take him to the airport to get our rental car, and we got it packed and hit the road for a quick trip home.

(Interlude – trip home to Winter Park)

Friday (2/5) – Marathon, FL– We left Winter Park in the morning and drove down the keys before the traffic got too bad. We stopped in Islamorada to check out the marina where we planned to stay in March. Our friends Pam & Pete (“Endoxi”) were already there, and Shari & Rodney had “Sassified” docked but they had moved to their house.  We visited with Pete & Pam for a while, then we all went over to see Sharri & Rod’s beautiful home which overlooks the Atlantic.  We visited with them for a little bit longer, then had to leave as we did not want to get to Marathon when it was dark. The weekend traffic was building on US1 and we still had 40 miles to go.

Sharri & Rodney's Tavernier House

Shari & Rodney’s Tavernier House

Sharri & Rodney's Tavernier backyard

Shari & Rodney’s Tavernier backyard

Since we will be staying in Marathon for a month, then moving to Islamorada for another 4 weeks, we decided to drive our own car (SUV) to the keys. One of the benefits of this is that we can leave things in the back of the SUV until we need it, like a cooler and a whole flat of bottled water. Of course when we go to the Bahamas we will not have this luxury, but for now we are happy to not have to worry about where to store these things on our boat.

When we arrived back at the Marathon Yacht Club (MYC) we were advised by neighbors on the sailboat next to ours that they had to adjust some of our lines while we were gone as the wind started to blow the day before. It is like we are a magnet for the wind as it kicked back up when we got back to Marathon and of course it was out of the North where (once again) the marina has its greatest exposure.

After we got the car unpacked, we went over to the Key’s Fisheries located just a few blocks from the marina. Here we got some dinner and then checked out their stone crab claw prices in their market. Denise had gotten some at Whole Foods while home and discovered that Key Fisheries was their source.  The prices, remarkably were the same price, but Whole Foods is not fresh off the boat.

Entrance at Keys Fisheries

Entrance at Keys Fisheries

MYC was having their usual Friday night Bar-b-que and we ran into Bill Mellman at the grill. He and Jann (“Ivory Lady) were dining at the club that night, so we stopped and chatted with him while he cooked their dinner.  We agreed to get together later this week or sometime soon.

The wind was really blowing and the chop in the marina was unbelievable. As the water slapped the hull of the boat it made a lot of noise and made it difficult to sleep. Plus, since the bow faces north and we sleep in the bow, it is louder and more uncomfortable in these conditions. We both were up and down all night long, trying to get comfortable despite the noise.  Either that or we just missed the comforts of our dirt home bed.

Saturday (2/6) – Marathon, FL –Unfortunate for the fishing guys this week, it rained most of the day and was really windy so we didn’t have the early morning music issues from the previous weekend.  Eventually, the rain cleared up, but it still remained a bit windy. We spent most of the day just hanging around the boat and MYC. Mark rested a bit as he was still under the weather with either a cold or allergies.  Denise spent the afternoon working on the information to submit her maintenance points for her Supply Chain Certification and got that task completed.

In the afternoon we watched Dori, Bob’s dog go after an iguana that had been sitting on the dock trying to warm up with the now very sunny day.

MYC neighbor iguana

MYC neighbor iguana

Dori the iguana attacker

Dori the iguana attacker

Bob with Dori

Bob with Dori

Later we went to Publix to get some food for the week, and then on the way home we went to the Keys Fisheries Market and got some fresh grouper for dinner; Denise had a new recipe she wanted to try out.

But now we had a dilemma. The recipe called to broil the fish and our oven doesn’t really have a broiler; it is a convection microwave. However, it does have grilling capabilities. So we improvised and made it using the grill feature. It took about 10 minutes longer to cook, but it was good and fresh so it tasted great.  We now know that if we want fish cooked this way, we should either grill it on the outside grill, or wait until we get back home to put it under the broiler.

Sunday (2/7), Marathon, FL – It is Super Bowl Sunday and we felt like they had played the game on our boat.  The whole night the wind continued to howl and it continued to rain off and on.  When we woke in the morning it was cloudy and overcast, but not as cool as was expected.  However, it did start to rain just as we headed out to attend mass at San Pablo Catholic Church, located about 4 miles from the marina. We were grateful we had our car and did not have to worry about getting transportation to go to church in these conditions.

San Pablo Catholic Church

San Pablo Catholic Church

Sign for rosary garden at San Pablo

Sign for rosary garden at San Pablo

After church we went out to breakfast (something we rarely do) at “The Stuffed Pig”. This is a small restaurant around the corner from the marina that only serves breakfast and lunch. It has an outdoor eating area as well as the small dining room, but the inclement weather had it closed so everyone had to wait on indoor seating.  Fortunately, we only had a 15 minute wait.  The food was good and the place was lively with a lot of fun treasures all over the walls.  We had an opportunity to talk with the hostess who come to find out was a former Eastern airline flight attendant. Mark’s mom worked for Eastern before she retired so we had something to discuss with this woman.

Breakfast at The Stuffed Pig

Breakfast at The Stuffed Pig

The Stuff Pig

The Stuff Pig

After breakfast we attempted to get a newspaper; specifically the Sunday edition of the Miami Herald. Who would have thought it would be such an adventure. We went to no less than 10 places only to be told they were sold out. Publix, Walgreens, Tom Thumb (7-11 like store), gas stations, and every newspaper box in front of every store. The combination of the upcoming Miami Boat Show, Coconut Grove Art Festival, and Super Bowl Sunday must have made it a hot commodity. Either that or they have really terrible supply chain forecasting and need to hire us to improve their business. It was unbelievable that they would have sold out by 10:30 in the morning.

Afterwards we came back to the boat and hung out for a while, talking with Bob (MYC Port Captain) who owns the Island Packet Catamaran across the dock from us, as well as other boaters around us.

Later in the afternoon, the clouds finally dissipated but the wind was still blowing out of the north and bouncing our boat around the slip. So to get off the boat we went to the Pigeon Key Art Festival which was held in the Marathon City Park located 1/2 mile up the road from MYC. We walked to the event and through the 70 or so artists who displayed varying mediums, mostly all with a beach or Keys theme to their products.  Even the jewelry had nautical or sea life motifs.

Pigeon Key Art Festival Sign

Pigeon Key Art Festival Sign

Pigeon Key Art Festival

Pigeon Key Art Festival

When we got back from the festival, Mark wanted to rest for a while still trying to get rid of the running nose and congestion. Denise read. We ate a dinner of bar-b-que chicken that Denise had prepared in the crock pot, then watched the Super Bowl and all its entertaining commercials.

Monday (2/8), Marathon, FL – We spent the day working around the boat and getting to know some of our boat neighbors in the marina. It is a small group as there are less than 25 slips and many are filled with boats from the clubs members. In the evening, the live-aboard and transients in the marina held a Pot luck dinner; something they do every Monday during the season as the yacht club is closed on Mondays.  It gave us a good time to meet people who we would be spending a lot of time with in the next month.  We brought some smoked salmon and capers, as Mark’s request, and it was well liked by all.  Afterwards we watched Downton Abbey on demand as we had missed Sunday’s episode due to the Super Bowl.

IO at MYC

IO at MYC

Tuesday (2/9), Marathon, FL – Today was a day of adventures.  We had to go to Key West for a 10:30 appointment with ICE (Immigration and Customs enforcement) to get our Small Vessel Reporting System cards. This will enable us to re-enter the US after the Bahamas with (hopefully) no issues.  The cost is free, but they must see us in person.  So we drove the 45 miles to the address they told us to report at (Federal Courthouse in downtown Key West), only to learn that they only show up there periodically. We were redirected to the ICE office at the KW airport. Fortunately, they were laid back (it is the Keys) and even though we were slightly late they were very accommodating. They also let us park in the spot for official cars right near their door, which was a nice bonus. Our business was conducted in no time and we were in an out of there in 30 minutes.  We then ventured to a few stores to pick up a couple items and headed back North (or is it East) on US1 towards Marathon.

We had made arrangements to see a long-time friend of Denise’s (Mary) from her days in Miami. She now lives in Big Pine Key which is about half-way between Key West and Marathon.  However, it was too early to drive straight there as she had a lunch appointment.

So we decided to stop for lunch at a place we had heard about on Cudjoe Key called the “Square Grouper”. We found this spot to be a lot of fun as the whole theme of the restaurant is based on the marijuana bales that wash ashore in the keys – known affectionately as square groupers.  There is a large aquarium in the middle of the restaurant containing a fake example, and there are sayings all throughout the restaurant and menu that reinforce this play on words (e.g. “this is my favorite joint”).  But the best part of this restaurant is the food. It is really fresh and tasty and they have an excellent wine selection.  It also helps that the service is fast and friendly and we really enjoyed ourselves.

Square Grouper Entrance

Square Grouper Entrance

Lunch at Square Grouper

Lunch at Square Grouper

Square Grouper inside

Square Grouper inside

After lunch we drove to visit Mary on Big Pine Key. Mary is a widow and a retired Miami firefighter.  She and Denise used to run and swim together when both were single.  Although we correspond periodically, we had last seen her (and her husband Mike) when we had our sailboat “High Flight” in Miami Beach in 1999.  It was great to visit and get caught up. Plus, Mary gave us some suggestions on things to do and see while we are in Marathon, and we made tentative plans to get together sometime again before we leave.

After that we made the drive back to the MYC, arriving in time for to finish up the days business and have a quiet night watching TV on the boat.

Wednesday (2/10), Marathon, FL – Today was an office work day on the boat.  Both of us had work to do and conference calls that were tricky to pull off without one of us having to leave the boat.  We also had a few boat chores to do and spent time talking to our dock mates in the marina.

Thursday (2/11), Miami, FL – Today was the day we were reminded why we no longer live in South Florida.  Denise got up early and got a run in the morning before we made the drive to Miami Beach to attend the International Boat Show.  The traffic was terrible and it took over 3 hours for us to get there.

We went directly to Yachts Miami Beach (show) located on Collins Ave near the Fontainebleau hotel, and ended up spending the entire day here. While not the biggest boats, most of these are 45’ and up and many are previously owned – being offered by brokers – as well as new boat manufacturers.  We spent the morning and most of the early afternoon looking at all the boats we wanted to see including Flemings, Grand Banks, Hatteras, and of course Sabre. Yes, Mark has one-foot-itis!  We also found the vendor for the anchor we wanted to buy before going to the Bahamas, and completed that purchase. BOAT – Bring On Another Thousand!

As this was the area commonly known as the “brokerage” show, there were a lot of “previously owned” yachts on display.  One was a boat we had seen before…in Key West at anchor.  Yes, “Shalimar” had been on its way to this very show when we saw it in KW.  Small world.

Shalimar at MB Boat Show

Shalimar at MB Boat Show

Eventually, we connected with Tim and Karen (“TiKa”) who were there to look for a new boat. We enjoyed sharing a drink with them and getting caught up, then went and saw a boat they were looking at buying; a 70’ Ocean Yacht. It was beautiful and although it was a model year 2011, it was in beautiful shape and looked new.

Later went to dinner with them at Don Shula’s Steakhouse, not far from their hotel. We had eaten here before, and while the steak was delicious, their service was really bad and we were very disappointed. It is clear this place is not as good as it used to be.  As we were leaving the restaurant we ran into Looper friends Mary and Brad (“Dollinger”), whom we last saw in Green Turtle Bay, but met one of our first weeks on the Loop in North Carolina.  What a small world!

After dinner, Tim and Karen took us back to our parked car and we made our way out of Miami Beach and to our hotel near the airport – fighting traffic nearly the entire way.

Friday (2/12), Miami, FL – In the morning we left the hotel and drove to the parking garage at Bayside in downtown Miami. We wanted the option of taking a water taxi or a bus to Virginia Key – the primary venue for the International Boat Show that used to be at the Miami Beach Convention Center. Due to traffic and limited parking access on Virginia Key we thought this would make it easier to get out of Miami at the end of the day.

Once at the show, we went immediately to Marlow Yachts as we had a previously scheduled appointment. They were showing their new 53-footer, but it was the 49’ that really intrigued Denise. Unfortunately, this model has only been available for a year and there are no used ones in the marketplace yet – and a brand new one does not fit our budget.  We also went by and saw the Sabre 48’ and couldn’t believe how the 1’ difference between the two boats was so different – the Marlow won hands down!

Marlow 49 - Miami Boat Show

Marlow 49 – Miami Boat Show

We also visited with several vendors to get answers about equipment we have on our boat. The refrigeration people were incredibly helpful as were the Ocean Air people who volunteered to come to the Keys and install the replacement parts on our hatch shade. However, we must first take the whole ensemble apart to get at that information.

We were done with the show by about 4:00, but had to wait almost an hour to get a water taxi to take us back to Bayside and the car. As it was a spectacular day, and with the traffic as bad as it is we did not even consider taking the shuttle bus. It was worth the wait as we had an enjoyable 20 minutes on the Biscayne Bay of Miami – taking in the ever-changing skyline along the way.

Biscayne Bay - Miami Boat Sho

Biscayne Bay – Miami Boat Sho

Water Taxi - Miami Boat show

Water Taxi – Miami Boat show

We arrived back at Bayside shortly after 5:00 pm and decided to eat an early dinner before leaving the area. Our intention was to let traffic die down before heading south to the Keys. So we grabbed some food at Chili’s Restaurant and then headed back to Marathon. Of course we fought bumper-to-bumper traffic just about the whole way, finally breaking just west of Key Largo. We arrived at the boat exhausted and went right to bed.

Saturday (2/13), Marathon, FL – Because of the boat show, our list of “action items” was long, and Mark got right to work on some of them in the morning.  We were tired from our whirlwind trip to Miami, but managed to get a few of the easier chores done in the morning.

After lunch Mark started a project to replace the locking mechanism on our freezer, while Denise did all the prep work for our dinner. This “simple” project took over 3 hours because to get to the freezer mechanism we had to remove a piece of starboard that is above the unit.  To further complicate this, the freezer is located in the small storage area underneath the helm seats, and is not easy for Mark to maneuver.  So working with Denise who could crawl up into the smaller space, and handing her the tools (while providing the usual spousal instruction) we removed everything, swapped out the broken lock, and then put it all back together.

After all that, we were ready for happy hour and the enchilada dinner Denise had prepared.

Sunday (2/14), Marathon, FL – Today was a day of adventuring and entertainment. Denise started the day with a run through Marathon.  After breakfast and showers we drove south to Big Pine Key and attended a new church (St. Peter’s) for their 11:00 mass.

7- Mile Bridge

7- Mile Bridge

St Peter's Catholic Church - Big Pine Key

St Peter’s Catholic Church – Big Pine Key

We chose to go to this church as we were headed back to Key West to see a movie playing at the Regal Movie Theatre there.  But also because we wanted to go see about the Key Deer located on Big Pine Key (more about that later).

However, after mass we were hungry and wanted something to eat. Many of the restaurants in this area are closed on Sunday, so we went having any luck finding a place to eat as we drove west. Eventually, we turned around and headed back to the Square Grouper. Normally they are also closed on Sunday, but because of Valentine’s Day they were open, and they were packed. Instead of wasting time waiting on a table, we opted for the bar and had another delicious meal. Mark had a fish sandwich and Denise had their grilled fish tacos which were excellent! The people next to us got the homemade tater tots – really just fried mashed potatoes – that also looked really good.

From there we headed back to Big Pine Key to see the Key Deer. These deer are unique in that they are very small in stature and live only in the FL Keys; mostly on this key where there is a National Park Refuge for them. We drove out to the refuge, and stopped at a place called Blue Hole; a lookout over a body of water that was originally a limestone quarry.  Here we were greeted by an alligator, a turtle and lots of birds.  But, we didn’t see any Key Deer.

Blue Hole observation - Big Pine Key

Blue Hole observation – Big Pine Key

Natl Key Deer Refuge Facts

Natl Key Deer Refuge Facts

Turtle in Blue Hole - BPK

Turtle in Blue Hole – BPK

We then went to the Visitor Center (which we had passed by mistake) and got some information about the area and the Wildlife Refuge. Here they reinforced what everyone had told us; the deer are all over the place and we should see them all about – which of course we had not. And then as we left the parking lot to go explore more of the wildlife area, there stood a deer in the middle of the road. The speed limit is 25 mph in this area, so we immediately stopped and he walked behind us and down the intersecting road before we could get a picture.

From here we drove to Key West in time to hit the 4:00 showing of “Deadpool”. Truly this was one of the funniest movies we have seen in a long time.  It is definitely a hard R-Rated adult movie and is NOT for those easily offended by foul language and nudity.  It does have a “super hero” theme and is probably why the idiots next to us brought their not-yet-middle-school-aged son thinking it would be ok.  Obviously, they didn’t heed all the press in advance as the mother would not have had to cover her son’s eyes through several parts of the movie. On the other hand, we laughed a lot and want to see it again as there were missed parts from the fast action and constant one-liners.

After the movie we headed back to Marathon up the two-lane Overseas Highway. There was lots of traffic in both directions, which makes for scary driving in some places. At one point we even called the (Monroe County) Sherriff on a car we were following that was weaving across the center line and then back into the bike lane.  Eventually, they turned off on Little Torch Key as if they were going home. We never did see the Sheriff catch up to them, even when we saw him turn in several cars behind us at one point.  They must have known where they were headed and opted to watch them get home safely.

We arrived back to the boat in Marathon in time to watch this week’s episode of Downton Abbey and call it a very fun day!

Monday (2/15), Marathon, FL – In the morning we made a trip to Publix to get the food for the evening pot luck, which Denise later prepared and put in the crock pot. After lunch Mark worked on addressing some client needs while Denise went on a mini shopping spree to the Dollar Store.  She was on a mission to get some decorative toothpicks for the meatballs that we made for the MYC Monday night Pot Luck dinner. The transients and live-a-boards really use this time to take over the grill and patio area of the club since it is closed on Mondays, and we enjoy the socialization and getting to know our dock neighbors.

One of the boats near us is called “Stowaway” and is owned by Greg & Lisa. We met them the first week we came to MYC, but they left after a few days.  They have some guests who are boat-sitting for them while away, so we had a chance to get to know Jeff & Carol. Jeff plays the guitar (acoustical 6-string) and brings it to the pot luck dinners for entertainment.  Last week they had company aboard and we were introduced to Tim & (another) Carol, which totally confused us.  It is difficult to remember everyone’s names when you meet a bunch of people at once, as we did when we first showed up at MYC.  To make it more complicated, we had gone home, come back, then went to Miami for the boat show.  So today when we saw Jeff & Carol by themselves, we were really confused.  Fortunately, they clarified things for us and we just laughed about how mixed up we had been.  What is even funnier is that there is another boat on our dock (“Maxine”) where the wife’s name is also Carol – his name is Dan.

Of course all of this would be easier to understand if everyone had boat cards. However, not everyone does, and those that do forget to bring them.

Tuesday (2/16), Marathon, FL – In the morning it was cloudy and very breezy.  We watched a storm blow in off the Gulf of Mexico towards the yacht club and really kick up some wind.

Storm incoming over MYC

Storm incoming over MYC

But in within 90 minutes it had passed and it turned out to be a beautiful day.  Even the resident iguana liked it:

Iguana in mangrove

Iguana in mangrove

Once the weather cleared, we went for a bike ride to the Marathon Municipal Marina (also known as Boot Key Harbor).  It is ½ mile from our marina, but on the Atlantic Ocean side of the Key.  We wanted to visit there as they offer a goody bag for all cruisers who stay in Marathon, consisting of coupon books, boating supplier books and ads, and a really nice cooler bag.  We had tried to get into this place but were unable as they were very full for the season.

Boot Key Harbor has 237 mooring balls and all were full, with another 50 people on the waiting list – all at local anchorages. This is drastically different then when we had High Flight here in 1995 and there were maybe 50 mooring balls then.  But, it is a nice facility with a huge cruiser’s pavilion that includes picnic tables with internet Wi-Fi, TV cubicles, and a large book exchange a very friendly welcome by the receptionist.  The area also includes many shower facilities, a huge dinghy-dock area, washer/dryer facilities and an entire pavilion where you can work on your boat/dinghy equipped with lockers for your tools or work-in-progress items. Since it is a harbor with almost 360˚ protection it offers mariners great protection and is a well-known in sailing/cruising circles.

City Marina sign

City Marina sign

Boot Key Harbor

Boot Key Harbor

Boot Key Harbor

Boot Key Harbor

City Marina

City Marina

City Marina Cruisers lounge

City Marina Cruisers lounge

City Marina Cruisers lounge

City Marina Cruisers lounge

City Marina Dinghy Dock

City Marina Dinghy Dock

From there we rode to and throughout the Marathon Community Park which is right up the road, and where the art festival was. Here are some photos of the place:

Marathon Community Park

Marathon Community Park

Marathon Community Park Ballfields

Marathon Community Park Ballfields

Marathon Community Park Excercise Course

Marathon Community Park Excercise Course

In the afternoon we took the boat out on a cruise, and it felt great to be moving again.  We had been asked to help Jeff & Carol (resident guests on “Stowaway”) to assist Carol with the scattering of her sister Diane’s ashes.  Diane was in her 20’s when she was in a car accident that left her with debilitating injuries.  Although she lived a full life for 50 more years, she was diagnosed with ovarian cancer last spring.  She succumbed to the cancer in October and Carol had promised to honor her wish to be buried at sea like their parents. Unfortunately, a third sister was not able to be present, but Carol had her blessing to proceed.

It was a perfect day to go out and be on the water as the winds had died down and the waves were mostly flat. It was sunny and warm, but not hot. So we left MYC and cruised under the 7-mile bridge to the Atlantic side and headed 3 miles out.  Once we found the appropriate spot Jeff emptied the bag of ashes overboard while Carol read a poem and dropped a rose bouquet into the ocean.  It was really a unique event and we felt honored to be able to help them with this task.

Carol "Stowaway"

Carol “Stowaway” with Lilly

Jeff releasing the ashes and Carol flower Petals

Jeff releasing the ashes and Carol flower Petals

A tribute to Diane

A tribute to Diane

In the evening the four of us went to dinner at Sunset Grille – a restaurant that overlooks the 7-mile bridge and gave us a spectacular sunset. This place had been suggested to us as a “must see” place to go to and we understand why. It is the quintessential Tiki Bar & Restaurant. There is dining on an indoor verandah, or outside near the swimming pool under umbrella tables.  There are docks where small boats can boat-in, tie up, and get a bite to eat.  It is a fun place with nightly entertainment; we had a solo- guitarist.  The food was pretty good and we had a lot of fun getting to know Jeff & Carol better.

Sunset Grille Pool and Tiki Dining

Sunset Grille Pool and Tiki Dining

Jeff & Carol ("Stowaway" guests)

Jeff & Carol (“Stowaway” guests)

Sunset over 7 mile bridge

Sunset over 7 mile bridge

Dinner at Sunset Grille

Dinner at Sunset Grille

Wednesday (2/17), Marathon, FL – Time has been flying and we have can’t believe our stay at MYC is half over.  After Denise went for a run in the morning we spent part of the day putting together a rough plan for the Bahamas portion of our adventure.  We wanted to do this in order to decide which guide books we would need and get them on order.  We picked up a discount coupon at the boat show and we wanted to take advantage of it.  Our plan is to leave Key Largo in April and cross to either Cat Cay or Bimini to clear customs.  We intend to spend all of April and part of May there, then return to the USA either at Ft. Lauderdale or Lake Worth (Palm Beach) before heading up the east coast and, eventually home.

After lunch we went on an adventure to explore a few areas. First we drove to Sombrero Beach, just a few miles from MYC. Denise has been running down towards this area, but never went past the Marathon High School which is along the way.  So we drove down to the beach area and around all the homes that are built near this area.

Afterwards, we headed to Islamorada where Denise wanted to pick up a birthday gift for her brother at Bud N Mary’s marina. This is a well-known place that people come to go out fishing from one of their many charters. While there, some of the boats were coming in with coolers full of fish.  You could tell they had a good day by the number of pelicans that hung out behind their boats.  You could also see the resident tarpon in the water also hoping to get a bit of the leftovers after cleaning.

Bud N'& Mary's

Bud N’& Mary’s

Pelican awaiting scraps - Bud N' Mary

Pelican awaiting scraps – Bud N’ Mary’s

Tarpon at Bud N' Mary's

Tarpon at Bud N’ Mary’s

Another reason for our trip today was to explore Hawk’s Cay where we may stop and get fuel on our way to Key Largo. The entrance to the marina and fuel dock there looks tricky so we want to be sure we can get in. So after the errand, we drove back to Duck Key and the resort known as Hawk’s Cay. It is really nice and they are rebuilding the on-site restaurant at the marina, which burned last year.

Hawk's Cay Marina

Hawk’s Cay Marina

While we were there walking the docks, we saw an incoming boat; a Fleming 55. Come to find out it was “Otter”; a Looper boat we had met on the Western Rivers this fall and had seen several other places as well.  They are now Gold Loopers; completing their loop in Key West in January.  We spoke to them briefly as they were having issues docking and we needed to let them be.  It really is a small group of people who do this “Looping” thing!

Hawk's Cay - Otter coming in

Hawk’s Cay – Otter coming in

After exploring the resort and homes around Hawk’s Cay, we headed back to MYC and arrived in time for dinner. Not wanting to cook and having a plethora of places we wanted to try, we decided to venture to the local bar-b-que place called “Porky’s”. It is right on US1 and not far from our marina, but we decided to drive there anyway.  They have nightly entertainment and the guitarist was playing when we arrived. He was ok, and the food was good, but not great.  We were glad we went, but won’t make a huge effort to go back.  We both agreed that this is probably a great place to go when you are with a large group of people (like Loopers).

Porky's sign

Porky’s sign

Dinner at Porky's

Dinner at Porky’s

Thursday (2/18), Marathon, FL – in the morning we attempted to go to the Turtle Hospital. But delayed our departure from the marina so much that when we got there they were booked up for the morning tours. As Mark had a conference call scheduled for the afternoon, we were unable to make it today. So we reserved from tomorrow morning and left.

Not wanting to end our very short bike ride, we rode down to Faro Blanco marina again to see if any of our Looper friends were back on their boats. This time we did find Tom and Julie Van Hale (“Sum Escape”) on their boat; we missed them on our last trip there.  We spent some time visiting them and getting caught up and disusing future travel plans in the Bahamas.  We also got to see a pair of manatee in the water by their boat, and meet a few other non-looper transients in the marina.

Julie & Tom ("Sum Escape")

Julie & Tom (“Sum Escape”)

Manatee at Faro Blanco

Manatee at Faro Blanco

And it was here that we learned about one of the funniest coincidences of our Loop: we learned that the previous owner of “Sum Escape” was the same people who own “Otter” – the Fleming 55 we had seen at Hawk’s Cay marina. Small world!

In the afternoon while Mark was on his conference call, Denise used the car to go do a few errands and came back to make one of Mark’s favorite dinners; Fajitas. Yes, we have been on a Mexican food kick lately.

Friday (2/19), Marathon, FL – We started the day with our adventure at the Turtle Hospital.  What a great experience this was.  The hospital rescues, rehabs and releases (when it can) sea turtles from the FL waters.  It was formerly an old hotel that initially used the salt water swimming pool for their rescue tank. Now the rooms are used to house the volunteers and scientists who work to study and rehab these creatures, and they have added a surgery area, recovery room, and several pools for the turtles to rehab in.

Sea Turtle Hospital

Sea Turtle Hospital

Turtle Hospital Ambulance

Turtle Hospital Ambulance

During our one-hour tour we attended a movie where we learned about the 5 popular sea turtles they deal with including; the green turtle, the leatherback, the loggerhead the Hawksbill and the Kemp Ridley.  Then we got to see all the turtles in their various states of rehab, as well as the large tank (original swimming pool) that now houses their permanent residents; turtles that for whatever reason are unable to be returned back to the wild. You can learn more about this place here.

Here are some pictures from our adventure:

Turtle Hospital Tour

Turtle Hospital Tour

Turtle Hospital Pool

Turtle Hospital Pool

Rehab turtle

Rehab turtle

Turtle getting shot

Turtle getting shot

Original pool at Turtle Hospital

Original pool at Turtle Hospital

After our tour we rode back to MYC, but not before taking a side adventure around the grounds of Tranquility Bay; a beautiful resort we had passed several times. Denise loves the architecture and grounds and it is close to many things in Marathon. It looks like it would be it would be a great place to stay in this part off the Keys if you don’t have a boat. You can learn more about it here.

Tranquility Bay Resort

Tranquility Bay Resort

Tranquility Bay Resort

Tranquility Bay Resort

Tranquility Bay Beach

Tranquility Bay Beach

In the afternoon, Denise spent a lot of time writing this blog while Mark did some work for a client, but not before going to get a haircut and getting in a little afternoon siesta. It was a cool and very windy day, so we were rocking a bit in the boat, once again.

For dinner we walked over to Key Fisheries for a second dinner there, mainly because it was so convenient and because we wanted to try out their famous lobster Rueben sandwich. Although it was tasty, Denise didn’t feel the price was worth it, given the small amount of lobster in the sandwich.  They also were offering Stone Crab claws at $1.50 each in the 2nd story bar, but it was so crowded and we could not get a seat. There was a standing bar near the door, but the cold wind made this too uncomfortable so we opted to just eat downstairs in the restaurant.

Saturday (2/20), Marathon, FL – Denise was up early and managed to get in a run before the day got underway. It was very windy again today and we spent most of the day doing boat chores.

In the afternoon we went back to San Pablo Catholic in Marathon for the 4:00 mass. Here we ran into Peggy & Tom Perrotto, MYC members who are from Rhode Island. Their boat (“Tom Follery”) is not in the marina this year, but usually they stay aboard in the marina. Therefore they have been participating in the Monday evening potluck dinner so we have gotten to know them a little better.  Seeing a familiar face in church made us feel like we actually belonged to the community. It was the first time in our Loop adventure that we actually went to the same church more than once.

On the way back home we stopped off at a Pizza Hut and picked up pizza for dinner and took it back to the boat. We had not had any in a few weeks and we looked forward to having this meal.

Sunday (2/21), Marathon, FL – This was a mostly uneventful morning for us.  We ventured to Publix in the morning to pick up some groceries, and then we hung around the boat talking with some of the people in the marina and around the yacht club.

One of the people we met in our marina was a young (26 year old) guy who was 4th generation native from Pensacola, and was doing the Loop.  “Forrest” was single-handling his own boat (“Pura Vida”), a 1987 Hatteras which he purchased in the fall in Nashville, then had friends help him with the trip through parts of the Cumberland, Tennessee and Tenn-Tom waterway.  Mark helped him dock when he came into the Yacht Club under very windy conditions.

In the afternoon, we attended the Sunset Celebration – a gathering of Loopers at Banana Bay Resort & Marina about 1 mile north of MYC. The event was well coordinated by Pat & George Hospodar (“Reflection”), and was assisted by other Loopers staying at that marina. Although not an AGLCA planned event, there were two sponsors who provided beer, wine and soda and sponsored the music; a local band (“Four Sheets to the Wind”) that is well known throughout the keys and who were pretty good. Everyone brought a dish to share – so it was like one big pot luck dinner – Looper style.

AGLCA Sunset Festivities

AGLCA Sunset Festivities

AGLCA Sunset Festivities

AGLCA Sunset Festivities

"Four Sheets to the Wind" - Band on AGLCA

“Four Sheets to the Wind” – Band on AGLCA

There were over 130 Loopers, many we knew and had not seen since our days along the western rivers. We sat with Shari & Rodney (“Sassified”) and Pam & Pete (“Endoxi”) who drove down from Tavernier for the event. Also present were Ev & Clark (“SeaMoss”) who took some great pictures for us.  It was a lot of fun and we enjoyed talking with others about their Loop adventures.  We left shortly after capturing these great sunset pictures.

AGLCA Festivities

AGLCA Festivities

Ev & Clark at "Sea Moss"

Ev & Clark at “Sea Moss”

Sunset over Bay - AGLCA party

Sunset over Bay – AGLCA party

AGLCA party - sky looking east

AGLCA party – sky looking east

Moon rising in the east

Moon rising in the east

Monday (2/22), Marathon, FL Wednesday, (2/24) – Mark had to go visit a client in Ohio this week, so in the morning Denise drove him to Key West airport and drove all the way back.  Two almost-non-stop hours in the car. If it wasn’t for the beautiful scenery of the FL Keys along the way, she would have probably gone bonkers!

In the afternoon Denise worked on the blog, and made a chicken dish for the usual Monday night marina stay-aboard pot luck. Jeff and Carol (“Stowaway”) had gone out of town for the weekend, but returned in the nick of time, so we again were serenaded by his wonderful guitar talents after dinner.

Jeff ("Stowaway") entertains

Jeff (“Stowaway”) entertains

MYC Monday Potluck

MYC Monday Potluck

MYC Pot Luck

MYC Pot Luck

Joan & Don ("Mezamariah")

Joan & Don (“Mezamariah”)

Dan & Carol

Dan & Carol

Jim ("Time Out")

Jim (“Time Out”)

On Tuesday afternoon (2/23) another Back Cove showed up in the marina. “Jolie” was is a 34’ older model, but their owners Lou & Tina are young at heart.  They came by and visited Denise for while right before dinner and they had a chance to talk about their respective boats and compare notes. They liked a lot of the things we had done for storage on Island Office, and we liked the canvas shade they have for their cockpit.  We are still trying to find the perfect solution for our boat.

"Jolie" at MYC

“Jolie” at MYC

Lou & Tina - "Jolie"

Lou & Tina – “Jolie”

The rest of the time while Mark was gone Denise spent time putting together the presentation slides for a workshop she will be delivering in Jacksonville on March 8th – one of the main reasons we are headed home to Winter Park the week of 3/6.  It is a big job and material from 2009 required updating, not to mention getting her mind on work instead of Loop activities.  She stayed close to the boat, socializing with those in the marina, and managing to get in a run as well.

She did spend some time getting to know Forrest (“Pura Vida”) a little bit better, as well as Port Captain Bob, boater Steve, and some of the others at the club. You know Denise, she will talk to anybody!

Thursday, (2/25) – Finally today, our new anchor showed up.  Denise was concerned that the 35 lb. package might be too heavy for her to lift, and had lined up a few guys on the dock to assist with getting it to the boat in Mark’s absence.  Fortunately, it arrived with minimal packaging and was so lightweight that the MYC office staff was able to bring it down to the boat when it arrived.

New anchor arrives

New anchor arrives

Inside the boat was a mess and Denise was set on making it sparkle for Mark’s return in the evening. All day long she scrubbed, dusted and vacuumed, polished and cleaned everything possible. It never ceases to amaze us how such a small space gets so dirty and can take nearly a whole day to clean, but that is life on a floating home.  Still not getting everything done that she wanted, she left to make the hour drive back to Key West airport to pick up Mark.

On the way home the decided to stop for dinner once again at The Square Grouper on Cudjoe Key. The 45 minute wait (they don’t take reservations) was very worth the wait as once again we had a terrific meal.  We will surely miss this place, and highly recommend it to everyone.

Square Grouper dinner

Square Grouper dinner

Friday (2/26), Marathon, FL –We had an errand to run at the Home Depot, so we used that as the impetus to get us off the boat and go explore parts of Marathon we had not yet seen, by way of car.  We took Sombrero Blvd out towards the Sombrero Marina and the Boot Key anchorage. We parked the car and walked the docks that parallel the road and went looking for any Loopers who might be there.  We also walked down to “Docksides”, a pub/restaurant at the marina that we had visited in 1995 when we were on High Flight. Although we don’t remember the restaurant, we certainly remember the bar area.  We had sat there one day awaiting weather and trying to decide if we would leave the next day to head north, or stay another day. Fast forward 20 years and we are having the very same discussions now with this boat.  Too funny!

Sombrero Marina & Dockside Bar

Sombrero Marina & Dockside Bar

Today we said goodbye to our new friends Jeff & Carol (guests on “Stowaway”) and their Maltese dog Lilly – as they were headed north to Disney, then on to their home in Annapolis. We really enjoyed getting to know them and being entertained by Jeff’s great guitar playing.  We hope to be able to connect with them one day if we get back to Annapolis.

Since it is Lent and we are trying to be good Catholics, we needed to find a place to have fish for dinner. MYC was having a special Pirate-themed Mystery Dinner at the club, but the food they were serving was going to be a pulled-pork entrée. Even though they offered to make us a complementary fish dish, we opted not to spend $29++ per person for that, and decided to try a restaurant we had not yet experienced. “Barracuda” was located not but a half mile from the marina and had glowing reviews on YELP and by other friends.  They only serve dinner, open their doors at 5:50 and do not take reservations.  But this place has now become our new favorite restaurant in the Keys – with Square Grouper a close second. It has a limited menu, but all of the ingredients are very fresh and delicious.  While the entrees are somewhat pricey, Denise brought most of the pasta from her “Scallop with Pesto Pasta” dinner home for lunch the next day.  Mark had ordered “Escargot with Marsala Mushrooms” and “Mussels” from their appetizer menu and these were large enough portions to make a meal – thus making it affordable.  It really was a delicious meal and we were glad we chose this place.

Barracuda Grill

Barracuda Grill

Barracuda Grill

Barracuda Grill

Saturday (2/27), Marathon, FL – From the drive down Sombrero Blvd yesterday, Denise found a new place to run and one she could use to get in a little longer distance.  The scenery was better and she didn’t have to deal with cars like she did when running the whole way on the Overseas Highway. Although she didn’t run as far as she liked, she welcomed the change in course.

This morning we also welcomed back to MYC Greg & Lisa, the owners of “Stowaway”, who were returning from Ohio where they had to conduct some workshops for their business. We look forward to hopefully getting to know them a little bit before we leave MYC on Monday.

Later in the morning we walked to the Marathon community park to check out the Nautical Flea Market. It was sunny with a slight wind, making for a beautiful day to be outside. MYC had a big booth with items donated by members, then they sell as a fundraiser for one of their educational programs. There were other organizations there as well and we walked around to each one. Fortunately for our cruising fund, there was nothing we needed.  We did take a few minutes to briefly visit with Bill & Jann Mellman (“Ivory Lady”) and George & Pat Hospodar (“Reflection”) who were manning the MYC tent.

Nautical Flea Market

Nautical Flea Market

Nautical Flea Market

Nautical Flea Market

Four Sheets to the Wind" perform at Bandshell

Four Sheets to the Wind” perform at Bandshell

As we were leaving the park we ran into Ev & Clark (“Sea Moss”) and started talking about going to the Bahamas. They were curious as to our boat and our Bahamas plans so we invited them back to MYC and spent another 45 minutes talking with them and reviewing our charts for places to go.  It was fun to share this with someone who has never been and we hope to be able to meet up with them while there; it would be fun to anchor out together.

In the afternoon we went to church for the 4:00 mass at San Pablo’s for our last time. And as a special treat for Mark, on the way back to the boat we went to “Dions” and got their fried chicken for dinner.  “Dion’s Quick Mart” is the WaWa of the FL Keys.  We learned about this chain of gas station-serving fried chicken dinners from an article in the “Free Press” – the local Keys weekly newspaper.  The owner is the daughter of the founder who started the business 65+ years ago.  She took over the business when her father died and has been running it ever since.  During that time it grew to multiple locations throughout the Keys, all serving their famous chicken. Recently she sold the family business to another company who promises to keep the 150 employees and the locations.  You can learn more about Dion’s here.  We liked our chicken and now felt like we had experienced life like a true Keys local.

Sunday (2/28), Marathon, FL – Again it looked like it was going to be a beautiful day; sunny and a slight breeze with warm temperatures (finally).  A perfect day for a bike ride.  So we headed out to the old 7-mile bridge and to Pigeon Key. We have been wanting to go there, but the weather or schedules had not allowed for it, and today was the last day we could.  It is 2 miles to get there, 2 miles out on the bridge to Pigeon Key, which you cannot get to from the bridge now as the ramp is in need of repairs and is closed.  If you want to visit there you have to take the water ferry from the Visitors Center on the mainland.

Bike Ride to Pigeon Key

Bike Ride to Pigeon Key

Pigeon Key from Old Bridge

Pigeon Key from Old Bridge

North side of Pigeon Key

North side of Pigeon Key

Pigeon Key overlooking FL Bay

Pigeon Key overlooking FL Bay

After a short rest and an opportunity to take some awesome pictures, we rode the 2 miles back to the base of the bridge. Only now we were facing a hard east head wind the whole way; it was exhausting on our small (20 inch) wheeled bikes.

We stopped in at the Pigeon Key Visitors Center and Gift Shop at the base of the bridge to inquire about the water ferry and tours of the island. Here we learned that the ferry only leaves 3 times at day (10am, 12pm, and 2pm) and we were between departures and didn’t want to wait over an hour for the next one. The cost is $12+ per person round trip. You can learn more about Pigeon Key here.

But we were not done with our biking adventure. We rode near the PK Visitors Center, Sunset Grill restaurant, and then up the street to Burdines Marina and the area around it. We then still had to ride the 2 miles back to MYC, again facing the wind.  When we got back to the boat we were exhausted, but happy from our fun adventure.

In the late afternoon we decided to patronize the MYC for their Sunday dining event. The idea is you bring a side dish to share (we brought a bean salad) and the club provides hot dogs, with cocktails at half price. We sat at a table with some veteran club members and learned that the food at Friday night’s Pirate Mystery dinner was not that great and that we had not missed much. We were grateful for not spending the money there, but enjoying a better meal at Barracuda’s.

Monday (2/29), Marathon, FL – This will be our last full day in Marathon, so Denise started it with a run down the Overseas Highway one last time.

Then we went on quite an adventure. We had to move our car to the marina in Key Largo where we will be keeping the boat in March.  So we headed north on the Overseas Highway (US1), but along the way made an impromptu stop in Islamorada at the World Wide Sportsman (Bass Outdoor). We wanted to see what it had to offer.  Other than Hemingway’s boat (“Pilar”), and the fish stripes in the parking lot, this place looked no different than the one in Orlando.  In fact, it was considerably smaller than the Pyramid in Memphis, TN that had us awestruck.  After a stop at the restroom, we got back in the car and finished the trip to Marina Del Mar in Key Largo.

Wide World of Sportsman at Islamorada

Wide World of Sportsman at Islamorada

Hemingway's boat at WW SPortsman - Islamorada

Hemingway’s boat at WW Sportsman – Islamorada

Parking lot stipes at Wide World of Sportsman - Islamorada

Parking lot stipes at Wide World of Sportsman – Islamorada

Once at the marina, we checked in with the dockmaster to get a pass to leave the car in the parking lot. Then, to get back to Marathon, we caught the Metro Dade express bus.  What an adventure this was.  We rode along with the locals who use it to commute to go to work in the Keys. Some of the people will commute up to 2 hours each way as the housing in the Keys is so outrageous they cannot afford to live where they work. It was very interesting to talk with the people, including the woman in front of us who commutes to work at the K-Mart in Marathon – which is also the end of this bus line and where we got off.

Bus back to Marathon

Bus back to Marathon

We still had to walk the 1+ mile back to MYC. However, it was way past lunch so we stopped along the way to get delicious sandwiches and a cold drink at the Marathon Deli. We had discovered this place early in our stay and we were happy to have stopped and patronize this local deli/wine-liquor store.

In the evening we had our last pot luck at MYC, and it was a big crowd. There were a few new transients, and all the others from past weeks. This included Forrest (“Pura Vida”), who had taken his boat to Hawk’s Cay (20 minutes away), but Steve went and got him so he could participate in the dinner. The food was really good as many different dishes were brought. Denise made shredded bar-b-que chicken in the slow cooker and it must have been well-liked as there were few leftovers for us. Everyone was complementary and there was only a little bit left to take back and put in our freezer for a “leftover” night.  We also said our “Good-Byes” to everyone as tomorrow we leave for Key Largo for the month of March.

Here are some other pictures of things in Marathon:

The Yacht Club:

MYC from parking lot

MYC from parking lot

Marathon Boat Ramp near MYC

Marathon Boat Ramp near MYC

MYC from marina

MYC from marina

Wildlife around the place:

Turtle in marina

Iguana in marina

Ducks at MYC

Ducks at MYC

The school across the street from MYC:

Stanley Switlik School

Stanley Switlik School

Stanley Switlik School

Stanley Switlik School

A local coffee shop:

Keys News & Coffee Shop

Keys News & Coffee Shop

Coffee shop sign

Coffee shop sign

And all the buildings with murals that are everywhere:

Murals on building

Murals on building

Mural on buildings

Mural on buildings

Mural on building

Mural on building

Mural at K-Mart

Mural at K-Mart

FL Keys Steak & Lobster House

FL Keys Steak & Lobster House

Stay tuned for more!