Category Archives: Down East Loop

Zimmerman Marine (ZM) – Mobjack Bay, VA (Wednesday, 5/15):
It is amazing how bright the sky is at 5:45 am here, and with it how loud all the birds are.  Denise was trying to sleep in a little bit longer, but gave up and put on her running shoes for the first time in a week. Despite fighting a cold and not knowing the area, she ventured past the entrance to Zimmerman Marine and onto the 2 lane road. It is very rural in these parts and houses are usually far apart, some are even horse farms.  Heading towards the water, it didn’t take long to run out of road and there was nowhere else to go. Turning around and heading in the opposite direction, she ran out to the two-lane highway and was forced to turn around and head back to the marina. It is too dangerous to run on the highway with speeds of 55 or more and no shoulder, sidewalk, etc. Finally, at nearly 3 miles she ended the run and went back to the boat. But some run is better than no run.  Here are some pictures from this running adventure:

Horse farm behind ZM

Road Denise Ran on = looking back

East River through the pines

House on Hick’s Warf Rd

Baptist Church on highway

In the morning and early afternoon it was work, cataloging pictures, and reading.  We anxiously awaiting word of the arrival of the package containing the sensor, but soon learned that it did not shop as planned. We would have to wait another day for its arrival and installation.

Seeking refuge from 3 days on the boat, we signed up for use of the loaner car to drive into the nearby town of Mathews for dinner.  It is 9 miles to drive there from ZM, but if we would have used the dinghy from our anchorage at Put in Creek earlier in the week, it was less than 2 miles. Of course we would have had to go at near high tide and returned before low tide as the creek dries up.  So now we had to drive away from the water, to the big highway (still 2 lane) and then back towards the water to get to Mathews.

First stop in Mathews was dinner. There were only two restaurants open on Wednesdays and we chose to eat at “Southwinds Cafe” – a place known for their fresh ingredients in pizza and their seafood.  It is a country diner in an old renovated house with tables on the front porch and tables inside.  There is also a bar area and they have several local microbrewery beers on tap.  It is eclectically decorated with all things “waterman” and antique-like.  We each got individual pizzas and a Mediterranean salad to split, and had leftovers to bring back to the boat.

ZM loaner car

Southwind Cafe

Mark at Southwind Cafe

Southwind Pizza

Denise at Southwind Cafe

After dinner we walked around looking at the historical markers, the old buildings and all that make up the character of this quaint little town.  Here are some pictures from this outing:

HIstoric marker in Mathews

Confederate War marker

Community Arts Center – Mathews

Farmers & FIshermans Building

Farmers & FIshermans Walk in Mathews

When we returned back to the boat, we parked the car in the lot and left the keys right where we found them: in the cup holder.  Life in these little towns reminds us of what it used to be like when everyone was trusting and when you always felt safe.

Zimmerman Marine (ZM) – Mobjack Bay, VA (Thursday, 5/16):
We woke up with anticipation of receiving the part, getting it installed and being able to leave for an evening somewhere else.  The weather was beautiful and sitting at a dock for two days when we could be enjoying beautiful cruising weather was frustrating.  But if the boat isn’t right, we can’t move it as we need dependability.

So we waited, but we didn’t sit still.  Mark gave the boat a good washing while Denise cleaned the inside windows. When he was done, we cleaned and applied “Rain-ex” to the outside windows and hatch covers. This helps the water to bead up and allows for much better visibility when trying to drive the boat in the rain or when sea spray hits the windshield.

Cleaning the sun roof on IO

We were not alone in our chores; we watched Albert on the sailboat (“Magus”) next to us work feverishly over the last few days to get his engine repaired, and his boat ready to take back up to Maine where he is from. We also watched the crew in the yard splash 2 other boats and put them in slips, as well as haul out another boat that was going into the yard for short-term storage.

“Sisyphus” at work hauling out

Here they use a tractor and some wheeled supports to haul boats in and out of the water, instead of a travel lift like we are used to.  It is really a sight to see, and the guys who do this are extremely thorough and talented.

In the morning we had received notice that the package was in transit, but not certain as to what time UPS would deliver. As the day wore on we resigned ourselves to the fact that we would most likely have to stay another night.  Once the package was received, it still had to be installed and it was probably going to be too late to leave and get up the Rappahannock as originally planned.  So we once again went into “re-plan” mode and decided that if we could leave in the morning, we would go all the way to the Potomac River and Olverson’s marina. We were going there to pick up some large fenders that would be of use to us in the locks on the St. Lawrence. Our MTOA (Marine Trawlers Owners Association) friends Jonathan and Lynn (“Zendo”) were giving them to us as they did not need them.  We already have a set, but it will be helpful to have a second set.  John and Lynn are not at Olverson’s, but their boat is and they made arrangements for us to get them off their boat.

Another reason to going to Olverson’s is that it is the headquarters for MTOA and we get a free night’s dockage if we stay there.  Although we could make it from ZM to the Potomac, and then back out and further up the Chesapeake so Solomons, it would make for a very long day. With long days comes the risk of getting caught in rough seas if the wind unexpectedly picks up, which the Chesapeake is known for. So we try to plan for shorter trips if possible.

Finally, in mid-afternoon Bob told us that our part had arrived and he would be down to install the sensor as soon as possible. Shortly thereafter he came to the boat, did the installation and check out, and all appeared to be fine.  Mark went up and settled the bill with the office before they closed so we could leave at any time in the morning that was convenient for us.

Meanwhile, Rose (from the boat “Catherine”) came by to invite us over for watermelon with her and her wife Janni.  Even though Mark does not eat the stuff, we still went over to be sociable.  As we arrived, so did Albert (“Magus”) and we all had a chance to get to know each other a little bit.  What was remarkable was learning the Rose had attended Carson Newman College in Tennessee, and graduated with a degree in Physical Education in 1970; a year before Denise’s sister (Jeanne). Even though it was a small program in those days, Rose did not remember Jeanne. However, it is possible they knew each other but the years have clouded such a recollection. When Denise told Jeanne about this, she said she was going to go to her yearbooks and look her up.  It is such a small world after all!

Janni and Rose (“Catherine”)

The conversations could have gone on for a long time, but it was getting late. We thanked our hosts for their hospitality and returned to our boat for dinner and to prepare for tomorrow’s journey to Olverson’s.

Olverson’s Lodge Creek Marina near Callao, VA (Friday, 5/17):
Not knowing when she would get a chance over the next few days, Denise went for a run in the morning. This time she headed toward the main highway, and in doing so discovered another road to run on.  On the way back from the main road she took this other road for the ½ mile of pavement and came upon a small farm with a horse in the paddock.  After taking a few pictures, she returned to the run and finished up as she entered into the marina parking lot. Not a long run, but a rejuvenating one.

Horse Farm near ZM

We left ZM shortly before 9:00 a.m., bidding farewell to our few marina neighbors and the wonderful crew we had come to know in a few short days.

We made our way past the Williams Wharf Landing and down the East River into Mobjack Bay. We wanted to run the engine hard and fast to discover and issues, but everything ran great and in no time we were back on the Chesapeake heading north.  The water had been a bit bumpy when we were on Mobjack Bay, but tolerable.

Williams Wharf Park

East River – Mobjack Bay

As we turned out onto the Chesapeake it got more comfortable as the wind was behind us and it made for a smoother ride.

Wolf Trap Lighthouse on the Chesapeake Bay

Eventually we turned west and entered the Potomac River, dodging crab pots the whole way. Here we technically entered the state of Maryland, as the state border here with Virginia is on the southern shore of the river.  The land helped to block the southern wind so it was not a bad ride at all, even though it had started to pick up a bit.It took us about an hour to cruise up the Potomac until we came to the Yeocomico River. We turned left and continued up the river bypassing a crab processor as well as some beautiful homes on the banks.

Crab Processor on Yeocomico River

House on western shore Yeocomico River

Houses near Olverson’s Marina

We made contact with the dockmaster and were assigned our slip.  When we pulled in we were helped by a couple we met at the MTO Rendezvous in Fort Pierce in April 2018; Liz and Steve Kemper (“Shingebiss”).  They were incredibly helpful and we were surprised they remembered us.  Plus, we were grateful for the extra set of arms as was Fred Olverson the owner, who was on the dock to meet us but didn’t have to get up from his chair the whole time.  Instead he handed us our packet containing wifi passcodes, and the usual marina information and trinkets.

We went for a walk to get to know the area, including the Lodge Creek Yacht Club and marina clubhouse as well as the area where the fishing boat captains hang out (called “Liars Corner”).  We also inquired about the loaner car (there are 3) and were not surprised to learn the key were in the vehicle and we could take it whenever and wherever we liked. There are no rules here.

Liar’s Corner

Wooden Shoes at Olverson’s

Hand carved turtle at MTOA headquarters

Marina/clubhouse picnic area

Kitchen at clubhouse

On the way back to the boat we stopped by “Zendo” and retrieved the large fender balls; the purpose of our Olverson’s visit. They were across the dock from our friends on “Shingebiss”.

“Zendo”

“Shingebiss”

We went back to the boat and looked at the weather forecast and our future plans.  Saturday was going to be a great day to be on the water, but Sunday things were going to get windy and Monday looked awful. Since we didn’t have any compelling reason to go to Solomons, we decided to bypass it altogether this time.  Instead, we decided to go to Annapolis, more specifically to Back Creek and the area known as Eastport.  We knew it was Commissioning week and we knew what that meant; crazy crowds everywhere, but a lot of fun nonetheless. Mark made marina reservations for a place we had learned about at the Watergate Marina, which is really the marina associated with the Watergate apartments. It is on the Eastport side of Back Creek, and everything we would want to do should be in walking distance.

Meanwhile, Denise cleaned the fenders and when Mark was done with the reservations, he washed the salt water off the boat.  We then took our showers and joined some of the local boaters who had congregated for docktails right near our slip. They were very friendly and made us feel very welcome. We socialized for a little while and asked for recommendations for diner, but didn’t stay too long. We knew it would mean getting in the car and driving to the nearest town and back and it was already getting late.

So off we went down the rural roads to the town of Callao (pronounced Cal-ee-o), and then continued on about 5 miles to “Backdraft”, a bar & restaurant that everyone on the docks recommended. The owner is a former firefighter and the place has a fireman’s theme to it.  However, the building and furnishings are old and need some updating.  But the food was good and the place was pretty quiet for a Friday night so we had great service.

Rural road to Callao

Marina loaner car

Inside Backdraft restaurant

ET firefighter

About Olverson’s Lodge Creek Marina:  The marina is a large and is in the middle of nowhere except for rural houses and some farmland. But it is in a great location to jump off into the Potomac and eventually the Chesapeake Bay. It is directly across the Potomac from St. Mary’s, where we anchored and visited St. Mary’s college in 2017. In addition to the marina/yacht club clubhouse and picnic area, it has a heated swimming pool and is also an RV park. It has some covered and uncovered slips, but all of the walkways are covered so you can stay out of inclement weather or keep the sun off of you.  The facilities are old and showing their wear, but they are clean and the hospitality of everyone is very welcoming.  The only thing we didn’t like was the bugs (wood bees and spiders) but we have learned over our travels that it is normal for covered slips to have such creatures. We prefer open slips for that reason.

It is also a great hurricane hole and many people from Virginia and Maryland (primarily) keep their boats here, then come and spend weekends on them.  People all know each other and have for over 20 years, and now their kids are having families and joining them on weekends as well. We even got invited to a few parties for Saturday night should we decide to stay here longer.  Truly, the people make this place what it is and we really appreciated their warm hospitality and friendliness. We didn’t have the heart to tell them we had already made up our mind to leave the next day for Annapolis.

You can learn more about Olverson’s here.

Here are some more pictures of the place:

Olverson’s marina from the road

Doggie bar at Olverson’s

IO at Olverson’s

Stay tuned for more adventures on Island Office.

Poquoson, VA (Wednesday, 5/8 through Sunday, 5/12)
We spent the last few days of our time in Poquoson enjoying the home of Denise’s brother John, and his wife Cathy.  We also got to see the families of their twin daughters Shannon and Christen.  Here are some of the highlights of the week:

 Wednesday (5/8):
We took John and Cathy out on the boat for a few hours on Poquoson River and a little into the Chesapeake Bay. John recently got a center console fishing boat and they have explored some of this waterway, but it is always fun to be on the water regardless of whose boat it is. There are some very lovely homes in this area and it is always nice to see them from the boating perspective.

John & Cathy on IO

House on Poquoson River

House on Poquoson River

That evening we went back to their house where we had a pizza and salad dinner with Christen and her two boys Colton and Cooper.

Mark, Christen & Denise

Thursday (5/9):
We went to an afternoon baseball game of the Norfolk Tides vs. the Pawtucket Red Sox.

Harbor Park Field in Norfolk

This is AAA ball and both teams feed respective franchises of the Major League; the Pawtucket team feeds into the Boston Red Sox. Today’s opening pitcher Mark Shawaryn, is a relative of a kid John used to coach when son Justin played ball. Through Facebook, Cathy made the connection to his relatives in the audience and we all had a chance to meet when the hot sun forced up from our great seats to the concession level.

Baseball game – Pawtucket Sox

Mark Shawaryn Pitching

It was a lot of fun experiencing great baseball, knowing that some of these young guys could be playing in the Majors at a moment’s notice. Unfortunately, the Sox lost in the 10^th inning, but we had already left to get a jump on the awful traffic in this area.

At Harbor Park Field

Norfolk Tides Mermaid at Harbor Park

At Harbor Park Field

Once back on the other side of the Chesapeake, we began the start of our boat restocking with trips to Walmart and CVS. John & Cathy went to watch their grandsons’ baseball game and we relaxed in the comfort of their beautiful home.  There is nothing like real showers and a bathroom when you have spent 5 weeks on a boat!

Chateau DuChemin

Friday (5/10):
This was a day of errands including trips to Costco, Kroger (for groceries) and a hardware store. We even managed to get in a Chick-Fil-A lunch, and John & Mark got haircuts.  After all this hard work, we hung out around the house, just enjoying each other’s company and getting in some rest and relaxation.  Denise had come down with a head cold and was a bit under the weather, so this allowed some recuperation time.

During the evening, Mark had to work. He had contracted to do some database file maintenance for a client but it had to be done after hours (and on the weekend). It was a big project, but it pays the cruising bills and we wanted to accommodate. We also wanted to take advantage of the better Wifi than available at the marina (non-existent).  So Mark worked while the rest of us talked and watched the movie “Bottle Shock” to finish out the evening.

Saturday (5/11):
Bad weather was threatening to move in, but it looked like it was going to hold off until the afternoon.  In the morning there were softball/baseball games for the kids. Acting Coach John had to leave early for the girl’s game, so Denise went with Cathy first to watch the girls play. Coach Shannon was back from her cruise with Harper & Macie, and it was great to see them play.

Harper & Macie in play

Cathy & Shannon

Then on to catch Christen and the boys; Colton and Cooper, whose game was already under way. It ended victoriously for the boys and they were so proud of their play.

Colton

Cooper

Meanwhile Mark was back at home continuing to work on the database project for our client.  Truthfully, we think he enjoyed the peace and quiet!

Later in the afternoon we returned to St. Joan of Arc church for evening mass. The priest here is blind and with the assistance of the deacons, altar servers and a braille book, he flawlessly celebrates the mass. In the meantime, it started to rain and of course was pouring when we tried to leave.

After church we returned for a family night of having Mexican food and drink. John made specialty cocktails and Cathy had gone to down on Enchiladas (two different kinds), tacos, rice and Mexican slaw.  Of course there was chips, several kinds of salsa, and guacamole.  No restaurant could compete with this!

But the company was the best with nieces Christen and the boys (Colton & Cooper); Shannon with the girls (Harper & Macie), and Cathy’s mom, Joan.  We had lots of delicious food and fun times with family, telling stories and laughing a lot.  It was a great way to end a week and we were so glad we decided to stay as long as we did.

Cathy & John

John & Denise

Shannon, Christen, Joan, John & Denise

Sunday (5/12):
Happy Mother’s Day! Cathy, the twins, and her mom all went to a brunch to celebrate their 3-generations of motherhood together. Meanwhile, John drove us back to the marina and we prepped the boat for leaving. We were headed to Mobjack Bay for a few days of anchoring out, exploration, and on Wednesday go to Zimmerman Marine to have some Preventative Maintenance done on our the engine.  The weather was not great as there was rain around and the wind was going to intensify as the day wore on. But, it was a short run to this part of the western shore of the Chesapeake that have never explored, so we knew we could make it before it got too bad.

We left shortly after 9:30 a.m., but started to get erratic and high engine temperature as we left the channel out to the Poquoson River. Not wanting to risk issues when in rougher water, we returned back to Whitehouse Cove Marina to troubleshoot.  Mark worked with Jeff (“YOLO”) who was very supportive, and then he did some assessments and testing.  He checked on the engine impeller, but did not go through the long task of removing or replacing it as it did not appear to be the problem. We ate a quick lunch and then turned the engine on for more troubleshooting, and it immediately sounded better.  So, we left the marina with the idea that we could come back if it heats up again. But we didn’t have to, and we cruised the nearly 20 miles into Mobjack Bay. It was a bit bouncy crossing the York River, but once well inside the Bay it was calmer.

On way to Mobjack Bay

Then we moved into the protective waters of the East River, going as far north into “Put In Creek” as we dared before it got really shallow. Here we anchored for the night among trees and houses on both shores, and just in time as the rain started.  There was no one around except the birds and a few crab pots, and it continued to rain off and on all night long.

Fish Haven Steaks on East River

East River Western Shore

Entering East River – Eastern shore

Once the rain started, the temperature cooled down and we closed the back door, just about the time the bugs were coming out. We turned on the generator to charge all our devices and run the microwave and cooktop to prepare dinner.  We called family and finished out the evening with Mark watching Game of Thrones and Denise cataloging pictures and working on this blog.

We really like the Whitehouse Cove Marina and the houses around it, including the mobile homes. We will most likely stay here again when we return on the way home in the fall. Here are some pictures of the area:

Stay tuned for more of our adventures on Island Office.

Poquoson, VA (Saturday, 5/4)
We awoke to a very wet boat deck as it had rained during the night, but grateful that it washed away a lot of the dirt.  We departed the Waterside marina at 8:30 and headed up the Elizabeth River, passing the Nauticus and USS Wisconsin to our right.  Denise was driving as we continued on at slow speed through the no-wake zone, passing navy ships under rehab in the Norfolk Naval Shipyard, as well as container ships in the commercial port.  Meanwhile, Mark was tending to the deck cleanup and putting up our homeport banner that enables other boats to see our boat name that is otherwise covered by our dinghy.

Leaving Norfolk

Putting up the IO Sign

There was a slight wind and a ripple or two on the water, with partly cloudy skies.  Soon made our way to the Chesapeake Bay, passing the Old Comfort Light house and Fort Monroe to our west, and Fort Wool to our east. It was a nice day to be on the Bay.

Passing Fort Monroe

Passing Fort Wool

We cruised uneventfully the 30+ miles up the western shore of the Chesapeake until we came to the Poquoson River, where we turned left towards the inland tributaries that feed this waterway. This is on the western shore of the Bay and just north of Hampton.

Crab pots everywhere

Entering Poquoson River

We made our way around the point to the entrance to the Whitehouse Cove where we would be staying for the next week.  Denise has family in this area: Brother John and wife Cathy, as well as two of their kids and their families.  We are excited to see them all and spend some quality time doing nothing!

Houses on Whitehouse Cove

As we neared the Whitehouse Cove marina we immediately saw “YOLO” – the boat of our Looper friends Gail & Jeff Dunham. They are from this area and were a tremendous help to us in 2017 when we had issues with our dinghy. We originally met them on the Loop in 2015 when we shared an anchorage in Baie Finn, Canada.  They came out of their boat when they saw us pulling in and offered to help with our planned pump out. Unfortunately, we were not able to get the adapters to work for the pump-out and would have to come up with a plan B.  We were not in urgent need, so it was ok to wait for later in the week when we could get the right size fitting for our boat.  We moved the boat to the area in which we were preassigned, which ended up being right next to YOLO.

IO and YOLO at Whitehouse Cove Marina

We chatted with Gail and Jeff for a while, getting caught up. We learned they spent the winter in New Smyrna Beach (if only we had known), and that they are planning to do the Loop again. However, they have a few things to fix on their boat before they can go, so they are working diligently to get them resolved. They offered us the use of their car or to take us anywhere, but with Denise’s family we are not sure that is necessary. Not long afterward, Russell (“Overdraft”) came by and said hello and gave us an adapter for the pump-out. Jeff and Gail had called him with a request on our behalf.  We had also met Russell in 2017 when we were here, and it was great to reconnect with him.

We had been in touch with Denise’s brother John, and we made arrangements for him to come to the marina, pick us up, and then we would spend the night with him and his wife at their home in Seaford; 20 minutes north of Poquoson. But first we had to go with him to a girls’ softball game.  John is assisting his daughter Shannon, who is the head coach for this team which her daughters play on.  She is away this week and he is taking on some duties to help out.  So we went to the ball field and tried to stay out of the hot sun. It was fun for us to watch the girls in action, and John coaching the girls to victory.

Dugout coaching

Coach John doing his job

Victory wrap-up

Trying to stay in the shade

After the game we headed to their home in Seaford, but not before getting a sneak peek at the nearly completed renovations of Shannon’s house.  We also stopped at the grocery store to pick up steaks to grill out for dinner.  We arrived to their beautifully decorated home where Cathy awaited with snacks and drinks. We got a tour of the place which we had not seen, and then got our showers in a real bathroom.  We also had the opportunity to do our laundry and spent most of the night washing and drying the handful of loads we brought with us.  During that time we had fun preparing dinner and getting a chance to talk with just the four of us. After dinner we chatted forever until late, and finally turned in well past double-digits.

Poquoson, VA (Sunday, 5/5)
In the morning we borrowed John’s truck and drove to the nearby Catholic Church (St. Joan of Arc) for the 8:30 mass.

St. Joan of Arc alter

While we were in mass it had started to rain, and let up just in time for us to get in the truck and make it back home. Originally we had plans to go into Yorktown, but the weather was not going to be conducive to good sightseeing along the York River. So we opted for a Sunday Brunch at a local dining spot “Food Craft”, and eventually a movie.

We got lucky at Food Craft as there was not a long wait and the sun had come out long enough for us to stand outside. Once seated we got to enjoy a bloody Mary and a great breakfast and each other’s company.

Brunch at Food Craft with Cathy & John

Then we had to decide on a movie and chose “Captain Marvel”. None of us had seen it yet and it was not as crowded as the other blockbuster superhero movie everyone else was seeing over the weekend. There were only a handful of people in the theater and we had choice seating in the very back row.

“Captain Marvel” theater

Once the movie was over we went back home for a little rest and reprieve until it was time to eat again. Denise and Cathy were able to talk Mark into sushi for dinner, so we went to a local place “Asahi” where they know the owner.  It worked to our advantage as after we ordered we received a complimentary appetizer that was terrific. The food was delicious and Mark even managed to find something on the menu he liked.

Asahi sushi dinner with Cathy & John

Dragon and Party roll sushi

After dinner we decided to spend another night so that no one had to make the drive back and forth to Poquoson.  Besides, it was nice to spend time with family.

Poquoson, VA (Monday, 5/6)
John took us back to the marina as he and Cathy had things to do, and so did we.  Mark had work to do for clients and then spent time trying to contact a recommended Cummins Diesel mechanic to do a quick diagnostic test on our boat engine. We had received a warning light while heading up the ICW, but it was one that suggested “check at next maintenance”. We did not want to wait too long to do this and he was trying to make contact with the person in Solomons, MD where we hope to be later this month.  Meanwhile Denise began researching and reading of places along the Chesapeake we might want to explore.

In the afternoon a plan was devised for a future itinerary, including stops on the Rappahannock River and to the MTOA clubhouse at the Olverson’s Marina about 20 miles up the Potomac River.  Here we will retrieve a set of additional ball fenders from our cruising friends Jon & Lynn (“Zendo”) who are graciously loaning them to us for the locks to get us to the St. Lawrence.  Other planned stops on the Chesapeake include Solomon’s, St. Michaels, Eastport (near Annapolis) and an anchorage somewhere up the Sassafras River.

We had a quiet night with dinner on board and getting caught up on a missed episode of Blue Bloods.

Poquoson, VA (Tuesday, 5/7)
Denise started the day with a run around the marina and the surrounding neighborhood.  As she has run this area before, she was anxious to see the beautiful houses that align the water and the creeks that feed off of Whitehouse Cove.

In the morning, Mark had the task of changing the oil in the boat. Although not a difficult task, it takes time and he has to sit in the small engine room space to do it.

Changing the oil on IO

While this was going on, Denise defrosted and cleaned both drawers of the refrigerator. We both had points where we needed each other’s help, requiring us to interrupt our respective tasks.  So it literally took us all morning to do these two things.

After a quick lunch, we worked on other minor things. Mark continued working with clients and Denise began working on this blog post. Gail (“YOLO”) offered to take Mark to the Post office and to a local auto parts store to discard the old oil, so he seized the opportunity.  Before we knew it the sun was getting lower in the sky and soon it would be time for dinner. But we continued working until after 6 pm when we walked up to Surf Rider’s, the restaurant at the marina. They have pretty good food and knew it would not be too crowded on a Tuesday. We got seated right away, but were glad we had not waited any longer as they got busy. By the time we left there were people waiting in line.

Surf Rider restaurant

After dinner we went for a walk around the marina and in the neighborhood where Denise ran earlier in the day.  We first checked out the boats in the covered slips and saw a Sabre ’38 and the boat “Red Eagle” whom we saw in 2017, neither of which had anyone on board. Then we walked up the street to the homes which run along the backside of Whitehouse cove, seeing the front of the one visible when you approach the entrance to Whitehouse Cove from the water.  It was a great way to end the evening.

Front of house on point at Whitehouse Cove

Tomorrow we plan to take John and Cathy out on the boat for a few hours, weather permitting (which looks really good).

Here is another picture of  IO and the Whitehouse Cove Marina:

Whitehouse Cove Marina in the morning

Stay tuned for more of our adventures on Island Office.

Norfolk, VA (Friday, 5/3)
Today was a play day in Norfolk.  We have been wanting to go to “Nauticus” (maritime museum) and to tour the USS Wisconsin; a retired battleship that is permanently stationed and is part of the museum. So after some morning work activity we walked over to the museum and signed up for the 11:00 tour of the Wisconsin.  It was very informative and we learned a lot about this ship which served from post WWII to the Gulf War.

“Wisconsin” gun turrets

Mark on bow of USS WIsconsin

The Wisconsin is also used by the military to host special events, and today there were a few on the agenda that we got to watch.  One was a reenlistment ceremony for about 20 Navy and Marine personnel that took place on the bow of the ship. Another took place on the stern of the boat after our tour, and it was for a promotion of a Lt Commander to the rank of Commander. This event was a pretty big deal. The very impressive, newly-promoted Commander thanked many in the audience, including his former classmates at the Naval Academy.  Two of these classmates were themselves already were Commanders of ships in the US Navy.  But what captured Denise’s attention was his family. In addition to his wife, his 7 children (2 girls and 5 boys) were there, and all were dressed in matching outfits. The kids ranged in age from about 12 to 3, and all got to assist in putting his new pins on his uniform. It was a heart-warming moment and it was great to see. We are always grateful to the men and women who give up so much for us, and we enjoyed interacting with them on this day.

Promotion Ceremony

On the USS WIsconsin

We walked back to the boat for a late lunch and to relax a bit. A local boater on a SeaRay came into the slip beside us and we briefly talked with him and his wife for a while. They were only here for the weekend wine festival and the concert that would play at Waterside this evening, then they were going back home.

In the evening we went over to have happy hour with our new friends Barbara & Joe (“Balahula”), whom we had met in Beaufort, NC.  They are from Kentucky and are doing the Great Loop in their Fleming 55.  We got to talk about their Loop adventure so far, including the damage to a prop when coming through the Dismal Swamp.  They were one of 3 boats in Norfolk all of whom had damage as a result of taking this route; the alternative to the one we took (Coinjock-North Landing Bridge- Great Bridge Lock). For this reason we will not take our boat through there, no matter how “beautiful” the scenery is.  We also spent time getting to know them better and enjoyed sharing foods we love, recipes and life experiences.  They are a very fun couple and we hope we see them on the water on the way up the Chesapeake Bay.

“Balahula”

After we left “Balahula” we walked to dinner at Waterside. Originally we thought we might try the pizza place, but the limited menu and lack of a crowd on a Friday night gave us pause.  So we opted instead for the Guy Fieri’s (of Food Network’s “Diners, Drive-in’s and Dives”) Smokehouse. It is mostly barbeque with other bar-type food items. Mark was in hog heaven, but Denise thought it was mediocre.  We were not that impressed, but since it was a last-minute decision we were happy to get a table and eat before 8:00 pm. The Waterside was pretty crowded as it was Friday evening and the wine festival was starting tomorrow.  Additionally, more boats were coming into the marina as the AGLCA Looper rendezvous was starting on Sunday; an event we chose to bypass this year.

At Guy Fieri Smokehouse

At Guy Fieri Smokehouse

After dinner we walked back to the boat for a little TV watching and then bed. We will be leaving in the morning, but not before the tides change so we won’t have to fight it all the way to Poquoson.

Norfolk, VA (Thursday, 5/2)
One of the benefits of staying at Waterside Marina is that we are in downtown Norfolk and there is a known area for Denise to run.  So in keeping with her schedule, she went for a morning run around the Waterside marina and through Town Point Park where they were setting up tents for the weekend wine festival.  She also ran along the Elizabeth River Trail, taking in all the familiar sights including the mermaid statues all around town. Here are some pictures:

Setting up for wine festival

Poster for wine festival

Entrance to Japanese Garden – Friendship Park

Entrance to Japanese Garden – Friendship Park

Japanese Garden – Friendship Park

Pagoda at Japanese Garden – Friendship Park

Waterfalls at Japanese Garden – Friendship Park

Old Public Library

Mermaid statue at Freemason Green

Mermaid Statue on corner of Tazewell & Boush

While she was gone, Mark did some preventative maintenance on the boat. He cleaned the strainers on both the generator and the engine, as well as washed off the back deck that was full of bugs. With the warm weather we continue to be inundated with bugs and we have not yet finished our project of a screen for the back door. So we are forced to use the AC all the time, even when it cools down in the evenings.

After breakfast we saw our friends on “New Horizons” off as they were leaving, trying to get home in Rock Hall, MD as soon as possible.  We hope to reconnect with them in a few weeks when we make our way to the northern part of the Chesapeake.

We then sat down and looked at our plans for the next week, and where we wanted to go from here.  We have been wanting to explore Cape Charles on the eastern shore for the last two trips and thought we would do it this time. But we need a good weather window to be able to cross the bay, and return and Sunday is not looking great.  So we shelved that plan and decided we would attempt one more time on our way home in the fall.

We also want to spend time in Poquoson-Newport News-Seaford areas to visit Denise’s brother John, wife Cathy, and their kids.  But first we had to see if we could stay in Poquoson at Whitehouse Cove Marina where we stayed in the past.  Once we had that confirmed, we laid an itinerary to stay in Norfolk through Saturday, then make our way north on the western shore of the bay to Whitehouse Cove.  We plan to then stay there through the following Saturday, allowing us time with family, some time to work, and some time to relax without having to move the boat.

After lunch, we spent time working and then getting the many pictures cataloged and the last blog posting done.  Mark had a late afternoon conference call that limited our time to go exploring today, so we focused our efforts on getting work done so we can go play in downtown Norfolk on Friday. We want to visit the Naval Museum and the battleship USS Wisconsin that is on permanent display here.

Nauticus & Hampton Roads Naval Museum

For dinner we went on an adventure up Grandby Street in downtown Norfolk.  This area has been undergoing a revitalization and is now strewn with restaurants. We chose to eat at Luce, an Italian restaurant about a half-mile from the marina. The place is really small with maybe 10 tables and 12 or so bar-seats. We sat at the two bar seats directly in front of the chefs and got to watch them prepare all the meals. The menu is untraditional Italian fare, with a more contemporary twist. Denise got the Chicken Limon, and Mark got another chicken dish that had sausage in it – only because chicken parmesan was not on the menu. The food was very flavorful and absolutely delicious – we highly recommend it.

Luce Restaurant

At Luce

Chicken Limon at Luce

When we returned back to the boat, we noticed an interesting boat had come into a slip near us.  “Lucy” is tug-type boat that has been in South Florida for the winter, but is headed up to Brooklyn, NY, where it hails.  We stopped and talked to its captain (Jacob) and his first mate (Carlos) to learn about the vessel and its owners. It was built by Lord Nelson in 1984, with only 8 others built in this length. This is the only model that was actually hulled originally to be a working tug, but was made instead into a pleasure craft. It has 3 staterooms, 3 heads (2 with showers) and is very spacious for its 49’.  However, it still only cruises at 8 knots.

“Lucy”

They also told us about a new marina in Brooklyn (1 Fifteen Brooklyn), just off the East River.  We checked out the reviews on it and they were not great. Plus, it is quite expensive so I am sure we will not stay there in the fall.

After that we went back to our boat and watched a little TV, did some reading and then called it a day.

Here are some other pictures from the area around us:

Waterside

US Customs building

Sunset over Elizabeth River

Stay tuned for more of our adventures on Island Office.

Coinjock, NC (Tuesday, 4/30)
Way before the sunrise, Denise ran the marina/gas station parking lot and the gravel road leading up to white house on the point.  After 8 or so laps, she had only logged 2.5 miles and said “enough”. Talk about boring!

While the morning sunrise over the Alligator River started out spectacular, fog rolled in for a short while. However, by 7:00 a.m. it had lifted and most all the boats in the Alligator River Marina left.  We were among the earlier ones to leave because we knew the wind would pick up and we did not want to get caught in the chop on the Albemarle Sound.  It was 13 miles from the end of the Alligator River across the Albemarle to the North River; it should have only taken us between 30 – 45 minutes to cross.

Foggy sunrise over the Alligator River

Calm Albemarle Sound

But on a boat, things often do not happen as planned. We were out on the Albemarle making good progress and under acceptable conditions, cruising along at 20 knots when our “hot engine” alarm went off.  We slowed the boat and Mark did some investigation in the engine room, which requires us to lift the salon floor to obtain access. Denise was driving with the assistance of autopilot, but there were crab pots to dodge everywhere.  Eventually Mark deduced that the engine was being starved of fresh water which is used to cool it.  The usual culprit was the raw water strainer, but it was clean.  One quick test and we proved that insufficient water was getting to the strainer, meaning we had a partial blockage from the thru-hull to the strainer.  We were able to continue our path north, but we could only cruise around 5 knots; a turtle’s pace compared to the jack rabbit speed we were used to.

It took us an hour to get the rest of the way across the Albemarle Sound and the wind had already started to build.  Once in more protective waters, we decided it might be worth stopping and Mark could dive on the boat to get rid of whatever was causing the clog.  We chose to stop at Buck Island, the best anchorage around in this low-lying area of the ICW. Even though it was the best spot around to pull off, it was still a little bouncy with waves from the wind.

Buck Island Anchorage area

We had also devised another plan (now plan A) with Mark going in the water moved to plan B. The water here is colder than we are used to and it wouldn’t be fun. So we chose plan A, which involved getting into the dinghy and using our pole and a scrub brush to try and free whatever was causing the clog.  Mark had little success with this and we thought it was not too safe for him to go in the water now, so nix plan B.  Plan C involved getting to Coinjock and hiring a diver to check it out in better conditions.

While Mark was doing this, Denise called Coinjock Marina and made a reservation for the night.  This is the last place we wanted to stop again, but close enough for us to get to if we could only go 8 knots. She also requested the name of a diver that could meet us at Coinjock, and like all good marina’s they provided. And while all this was happening, the trawlers that left with us out of Alligator River Marina passed by us on their way north.

We put away the dinghy, pulled up the anchor and cruised without issue at 8 knots into Coinjock Marina. And just like last time, they put us at the southernmost end of the 1200 foot long dock, with our bow hanging off and a stump in the water 3 feet from the boat.  And just like before it was because they had a full dock scheduled for the night – which they did. Yachts, sailboats, sport fishing boats, and trawlers all sandwiched in like sardines in a can.

Coinjock dock

It was also a challenging work day for us.  As it was the end of a month, Mark had two clients calling with accounting-related software issues that needed immediate attention, and Denise had a client trying to close a software selection deal by midnight (which they did).  So both were on the phone several times for conference calls or web meetings. Thank goodness for our hotspot!  And once docked, we were attempting all of this while Mark washed the boat and Denise was trying to catalog pictures and write this blog.

At 3:00 p.m. Jeremy the diver showed up as promised.  Initially when he dove on the underside of the boat he found nothing.  So Mark requested he remove the screen on the thru-hull, and try to free up anything that could be clogged, but nothing really was found.  On a 3^rd try and putting a pressure washer up into the thru-hull, he was able to wash out some type of muddy debris. However, there was low confidence that this was the culprit.  He did all he could do and once we paid him, he was on his way.

Diver Jeremy

Given this, we devised a plan for the next day: if the pressure-washing worked we would continue on to Norfolk; if it didn’t work we would slowly cruise (at 7 kts) 30 miles north and stop at Atlantic Yacht Basin. There we could have a service person try to solve the issue, and as they are a working yard they could haul the boat if required.  Not a cheap option, but one that would work to keep us moving.

Meanwhile, Mark talked to Bob (“New Horizons”) – who was also at Coinjock – and they devised a possible test for us to do to see if it did indeed work. But the test would have to wait until morning as we were tired and hungry.  After we wrapped up the work day, got showers, and talked with family, we headed up to the Coinjock restaurant for a quick dinner.

A note about the cruising community:  We are so grateful for all the cruisers who helped us today.  We had several of them call us when they saw us slow on the Albemarle, at anchor, and even when we pulled into Coinjock.  We even had one who was willing to pull into the anchorage and help us out.  Bob (“New Horizons”) was especially helpful, willing to call his Cummins-engine friend and offering suggestions based on his years of boating experience. The kindness and sharing that takes place is really heart-warming and reinstalls our faith humankind.

Norfolk, VA (Tuesday, 5/1)
We started the day doing a few things recommended to deal with the engine water intake, including moving the valve back and forth while running the engine at different speeds.  When all looked good, we paid the marina bill and pushed away from Coinjock.  We were one of the last boats leaving today, so that meant we would have to pass all the slow trawlers and sailboats, if we could cruise at our normal 20 kt speed.

Our first few miles through the no-wake area allowed the engine to warm up.  Then we came to the Currituck Sound and we could finally increase our speed to 20 knots, which we did with no issues.  We watched the temperature like a hawk, but the issue appeared to be resolved.  Now on to regular cruising and slowing only to pass the trawlers and sailboats that left ahead of us.  As we left the Currituck Sound, we crossed into Virginia and left North Carolina in our wake.

Currituck Sound

We headed up the North Landing River and eventually came to the North Landing Bridge. This is the first of 3 road bridges and a lock that we had to negotiate today. There are also 3 train bridges that could potentially hold us up but they are only closed when a train is coming. Two of the road bridges only open on the half hour and the last one (Great Bridge Bridge) coordinates the opening with the lock and only opens on the hour.  The distance between these is not always favorable to hit the “next” opening, and it is not uncommon to have to wait.  We had less than 50 miles to go to Norfolk, but we knew from past experience that this still could be a very long day.

And the whole chain reaction is paced by the North Landing Bridge which we approached as the #2 boat in line, and with 5 minutes to go until the scheduled opening.  When it did not go up as scheduled, the bridge tender announced over the VHF that the bridge had broken.  Behind us the boats started to stack up like a major traffic jam on an interstate and all we could do was wait.  Soon the bridge tender announced that it was going to be a long wait and that we were free to anchor (not usually allowed in the ICW) until further status was known.

We set an anchor even though we could see the repair crews working on the bridge, but we also knew that this could be an all-day wait.  When we were on our way to Maine in 2017 we had to stay in Coinjock an extra day because of this very bridge breaking.  It is known for this and since there is no place to anchor or marinas to go to, boaters have to turn around and go back to Coinjock if it can’t be fixed that day. It is not permissible to anchor overnight in the ICW, and outside the channel it is either too shallow or full of tree stumps.

Waiting on the North Landing Bridg

Boats behind us waiting on North Landing Bridge

So we waited. And it got hot and buggy as morning turned to afternoon.  After lunch Mark suggested we put the generator on and crank up the AC.  Which is exactly what we attempted to do, but the generator would not stay on.  We have been here before; when we don’t run the generator often enough the impeller gets brittle and breaks.  Fortunately, Mark knows how to fix this, we had a spare onboard, and we had the time to do it.  Within 45 minutes he had it all successfully repaired, and we were cooling off with air conditioning.

Finally, at 2:00 the bridge tender said they would be opening only partially and that we were free to go through.  We got through this bridge and made the 2:30 opening for the next bridge, but missed the opening for the Great Bridge Bridge.  We ended up waiting 45 minutes for this and the Great Bridge Lock, motoring in place in front of Atlantic Yacht Basin. We were grateful that we did not have to pull in here for a repair, and while we waited all the other boats caught up to us and filled the lock.

Atlantic Yacht Basin

2nd in line at Great Bridge Bridge

Entering the Great Bridge Lock

At the Great Bridge Lock

Boats leaving Great Bridge Lock

Once through the lock, we were able to finally make some good time moving up the river on our way north.  Eventually we came up to Top Rack Marina where we stopped to fill up on diesel.  We always stop here as they have the best prices around for fuel.  They have a restaurant on site that is supposed to be really good, and they offer a free night’s stay at the marina if you eat here. We have never taken advantage of this because it is right on the ICW and many boaters do not honor the No Wake Zone; we don’t feel like getting slammed by the wakes. But, we know cruisers who have stayed and like it.  As we fueled we watched a few of the boaters cruise by and figured we would see them in Norfolk as many were staying at Waterside, like us.

Once again, we were on our way for the last 8 miles of our journey, only to get stopped again.  On the way into Norfolk there are several high road bridges which we can clear, and three train bridges. As luck would have it, we got stuck as one of the train bridges was down and a queue of boats was ahead of us waiting on the opening.  Thankfully, it was only a 15-minute wait and then we were off again, heading up the Elizabeth River to Norfolk where the ICW ends.

Last railway bridge

We were the fourth in a line of boats pulling into Waterside marina at the same time, so we hung out in the river until they were ready for us.

Approaching Waterside Marina

Mark backed the boat into its slip without incident and we were tied up in no time.  It was 5:20 pm and it took us over 9 hours to travel 50 miles!

IO at Waterside Marina

After checking in with the dockmaster and taking with a few other cruisers, we went back to the boat for dinner onboard.  We are staying in Norfolk until Friday morning, but have an option to stay until Saturday morning if we chose.  After dinner we intended to plan our upcoming days, but we were just too tired; it would have to wait for morning.

Sometimes we see the funniest things while underway. Here are a few pictures from the last two days:

Ironing while underway on Sun Punch

Runner on bridge – 90′ up

Stay tuned for more of our adventures on Island Office.

Alligator River, NC (Sunday 4/28)
We left New Bern at 6:00 am with the hope that we could take the Neuse River east where it dumps to the Pamlico River, then the Pamlico Sound and eventually up to the Albemarle River. After that we would be in protective waters and would go to an anchorage just south of Coinjock for the evening.  We also knew we had two bailout options and could take either one of those fairly early in the journey, but once we passed the second one we were committed to the plan.

Once out on the Neuse River it was fairly calm and we made great time.  We passed Oriental, NC to our north and continued heading east as planned.  We crossed over where the ICW intersects the Neuse River (first bail-out point) and although the wind had picked up, we opted to continue on.  As we made our way further east, the waves started to build. The more we continued, the more it became apparent that the wind and waves would just get progressively worse, and we did not want to get beat up once we got to Albemarle Sound.

So once we crossed the Brant Island Shoal we took the second bailout, and headed up the Pamlico River. By the time we turned north up the protected Pungo River, the wind was really blowing and the waves had developed a chop with some white caps. We definitely made the right call. Here is a picture of the chart and the route:

Chart of path

Now the question became where to stay the night. If the weather was going to be great, there were plenty of anchorages, including in South Lake where we stayed in 2015.  But it was forecasted to be very windy for the next two days, there would be no crossing the Albemarle River, and we knew we had to stay put somewhere.  We also had to have internet and cell access as we had work to do for clients.

Looking ahead, we made reservations for 2 nights at the Alligator River Marina; a place just north of the Alligator River Swing Bridge which shuts down if winds exceed 25 mph.  This allows us to stage for the crossing when the weather improved. The downside to this marina is that there is nothing there. It literally is a gas station with about 30 slips, but the reviews were great as they had clean restrooms, laundry, a cruisers lounge and great customer service. More importantly, they had great WIFI.  But it is in the middle of nowhere.

Heading north up the Pungo River we had to pass the town of Belhaven and the Dowry Creek Marina.  As we approached we reconsidered our plans to go to Alligator River Marina and decided to turn in here. We had stayed here in 2017 and really liked the place. Although not downtown Belhaven, they have a loaner car that would enable us to spend two days near a town with amenities, and they had free laundry.  We called them to determine availability, and once confirmed we turned off the river and up the channel to their marina. Even though it still was before noon we had already traveled 67 miles.

After we docked and settled the boat, we discovered not only did they not have good cell service (like NONE), they had lost their large antennae in the storm on Friday night and had no internet out in the marina.  They did have a hotspot set up in the cruisers lounge and we were able to use that 24-7 if we wanted to.  As we checked in, we expressed our concerns.  The owner of the marina was very understanding and really put forth the effort for finding a solution, including checking out the library in town for their hours.  She let us reconsider our stay and told us we could pay later.  We checked out the speed of the WIFI in the cruisers lounge and discovered it painfully slow.  Then we went back the boat and attempted several other options – none of them worked. If we would have had just cell coverage or just internet, we could have made it work. However, without either one of these for 2 days, it was not doable. So we informed the marina we would be leaving, and they were very understandable. We untied the dock lines and continued on our way up the ICW.  Fortunately, (and mainly because we had no way to call) we had not cancelled the reservation at the Alligator River Marina.

Dowry Creek Marina

Busted antennae at Dowry Creek

Then next 30 or so miles was quite boring, traveling on the Pungo River, and then the Alligator-Pungo Canal.  We passed only a handful of boats along the way and for 20 of the miles, there was no cell coverage; the only part of the ICW we have ever not had it.

Pungo River Homes western shore

Pungo River

Eventually we came to the Alligator River which is a wide-open body of water, with only part of it deep enough to cruise across.  In a lot of ways it reminds us of the Indian River back home.  We no longer had the protection of the trees or the narrowness of the canal, and it was a bit bumpy but tolerable. We passed a crabber who was out working the crab pots, but other than that there were no other boats.

Crabber on Alligator River

Finally we came to the Alligator River Swing bridge, requested it to be opened, and the bridge tender did so promptly.  Once on the other side we made the left turn into the channel that would take us to the Alligator River Marina.  There are rock jetties on both sides of the entrance and when combined with the wind and waves made for a squirrely passage into the small harbor.  The dockhand was waiting for us to grab a line, and his help was appreciated as docking was a huge challenge. Mark did a great job despite the wind and current wanting to slam our boat into the docks.  It took a while to settle the boat with additional lines and fenders, but finally we did. Even though it was only 1:30 in the afternoon we had cruised 101 miles.

Since it had been over week, Mark decided the boat needed a wash and proceeded to scrub the salt off of everything. Denise got caught up on some photo cataloging, blog writing, and checking in with family.  We also met some of the other boaters who were at the marina, including San and Lisa (“Panacea”) who are Loopers and were from Southern California, and Bob and Laurie (“New Horizon”) from Rock Hall, MD.

The Alligator Marina office is really a gas station, and also offers a small “to go” restaurant. But it stops serving at 5:30 pm and offers a very limited menu.  It attracts mostly a lunch crowd of people on their way back to the mainland from the Outer Banks. Given this, we chose to eat a pre-home cooked chicken dish in from our freezer for dinner. The wind had died down and the marina was quiet so we were able to relax a bit. Because we had a decent internet connection we were able to watch the news and stream TV before retiring for the night.

Alligator River Marina & Gas Station

Sunset over the Alligator River Marina

Alligator River, NC (Monday 4/29)
Although we went to bed when all was quiet, we were awaken around 11 pm by fierce winds. The boat was really rocking and the water was loudly slapping the hull.  The wind had shifted from the South to the North and the water funneled into the marina causing a rolling motion. It reminded Denise of the 4 miserable days in Grand Haven, Michigan in 2015.  It was hard to get back to sleep and when we did, it was hard to stay asleep; it was that way all night long.  In the morning when we got up we noticed the north wind brought in cool weather again. It was 52 degrees and back to long pants and jackets.

Denise spent the morning doing a few loads of laundry while Mark did some work, repaired the binoculars (broken yesterday) and took a nap.  Between loads of laundry, Denise made a contribution to the 1000 piece puzzle that was in the cruisers lounge and got caught up on some emails.

After lunch we spent the rest of the day working for our clients. Between client calls Denise finished the last blog post and we watched other boats showing up in the marina. Everyone was now staging to cross the Albemarle River on Tuesday when the wind is (finally) supposed to die down.  By the time 5:00 rolled around, there were around 15 boats and we all gathered in the cruiser’s lounge for “docktails”.  We met many new cruisers, some were Loopers and a few were not.  We all were comparing notes with most everyone planning to depart in the early morning before the wind had a chance to build again.

Cruisers Docktails

Mark & Bob (“New Horizon”)

We went back to the boat for another meal on board and for planning out our next few days.  We walked around the marina for some exercise and then back to the boat for the evening before the mosquitos could carry us off.

New Bern, NC (Monday 4/22)
Wanting to go for a run and get back before Mark left for his client, Denise set the alarm for 5:30 am.  When it went off she rolled over, turned it off, and fell back to sleep. When the backup alarm went off (for Mark to get up) she woke up but by then it was way too late to go for the run. Apparently the body needed sleep over exercise.

Once Mark left for his 45 minute drive to the client in Washington, NC, Denise took some time to do work for her clients and doing administrative office tasks.  After that, she ran some errands in downtown New Bern.  First she mailed her old running shoes home so as not to take up valuable space on the boat.  Then she had a task to take a magnet door screen to a canvas place and have it cut and sized so it will fit on the back door of the boat. This is our latest project.  Then she checked in at the temporary marina office and picked up a package Mark had delivered there.  In the afternoon she went back to the canvas place to pick up the screen and then back to the boat for more work.

In the evening, when Mark came back from the client site we went on a mission. This time we were looking for a solution for attaching the screen to the back door of the boat.  Seeking the Scotch® “Restickable” tabs for mounting, we first checked at WalMart, but ended up finding them at Staples across the street. All of this was in the same vicinity of all the box stores for New Bern. There was also a Panera Bread which is where we ended up having a light dinner.

Once back on the boat, we discussed how best to attach the screen with the tabs and agreed to give it a try one day this week when we need it.

New Bern, NC (Tuesday, 4/23)
This morning Denise did get up early enough to go for a run along the Neuse River and through the downtown neighborhood with older historic homes. Most of these either line the water or are across the street, and were impacted by hurricane Florence.  Although some have already been repaired, many are still a work in progress. Here are some pictures from sights on her run:

Gazebo near Convention Center

Path on the Neuse River

Geese hanging out in park

Rains Brothers Home – Inventor of Explosives

Rebuilding stil after Florence

Sunrise over Neuse River

Mark left for the client site and Denise then spent the whole day doing a boat preventative maintenance project that we wanted to do before we left home, but ran out of time. She polished all of the inside of the galley, helm station and main salon. This included polishing all the wood, waxing all the fiberglass, and cleaning the floors.  Even though it is less than 100 square feet of living space, it is tedious work and exhausting.  But once done, the boat looked great.

Not long thereafter, Mark called to say he was on his way back to the boat, giving Denise time to get a shower.  We then went to Dinner at “The Chelsea”; a pretty good restaurant in downtown New Bern. We ate here the last time and really liked it, so we wanted to go back, and we were not disappointed.

The Chelsea

New Bern, NC (Wednesday, 4/24)
Once again the morning, Mark went to work at the client site and Denise did some work from the boat.  Around noon her cousin Elizabeth, husband Ken and son Daniel (now 13) came for a visit.  Although from Ohio they were on Easter break visiting Elizabeth’s dad in NC, and made the drive to visit us.  This is the same cousin that came to visit us in Key Largo in March 2016 when we were finishing our Great Loop adventure.

Shortly after they arrived we went to lunch at Morgan’s Tavern & Grill, then to the Pepsi Museum more of a touristy souvenir shop than museum. Since New Bern is the home of where Pepsi was formulated, it’s a must-see place when visiting.

Pepsi flags throughout town

We then walked to Tryon Palace; the first permanent capitol of North Carolina and home to the Tryon family.  Completed in 1770, it was the site of the first sessions of the general assembly for the State of North Carolina following the revolution, and housed the state governors until 1794.  We walked around the gardens, but did not take the tour inside the actual home. Here are pictures from here:

Daniel Elizabeth and Ken @ Tryon Palace

Gardens at Tryon Palace

flowers at Tryon Palace

Vegetable Gardens at Tryon Palace

We then went to Cow Café for a much deserved ice cream as it was hot and needed a refreshment.  Afterwards, Elizabeth & Ken went to visit an old friend and Daniel hung out on the boat with Denise.  This was a fun time for Denise to talk with Daniel as a young man and hear of his hobbies (many) and future interests (Eye doctor?).  He also got some time to text with his buddies from home, whom he was missing.

Ken & Elizabeth returned at the same time that Mark got home from client so it could not have been timed more perfectly. After some socializing time on board Island Office, we made our way over to Persimmons Waterfront Restaurant on the Neuse River.  Our dinner here was delicious, and the atmosphere was really great, overlooking the river and the nearby Galley Marina. However, the service was very slow which was really irritating as the cousins had to drive back to Fayetteville and we didn’t want to keep them too long. We were grateful for their visit as we always enjoy their company – it was the BEST surprise of our trip so far.

Persimmons Waterfront Restaurant

Dinner at Persimmons

New Bern, NC (Thursday, 4/25)
In keeping with her 3-day a week schedule, Denise got up early in the morning and went for another run. This time she headed around the NC Historical Center, more historic homes, and around the New Bern Historical Society Gardens. She also ran through some of the downtown streets, including one that shared the same name of her running friend Jim Reed.  Here are some of the photos:

Path along Trent River

New Bern Historical Society Garden

James Reed Lane

Old St. Paul’s Catholic Church – no weekend masses here anymore

Down East Porta Pottie – Long way from Maine!

Denise got back in time to see Mark off to the client site. The rest of the day she spent time either working from the boat, or making up a salad for future lunches. In the afternoon, the marina pump-out boat came by and emptied our tank.  This is a free service offered by the marina, especially since their restroom facilities were not available. But a backlog of boats required upfront notice which Denise had done on Tuesday. Usually Mark would handle this particular task, but since he wasn’t available, Denise took care of it all.  If only they would have come later in the day, he would have been able to do it; a neighborhood-wide power outage at the client site closed the plant and Mark came home early.

In the evening we were able to meet up with our associate Bob Griswold and his wife Mary. Although retired, Bob does work for us on occasion when specific projects come up that can utilize his talents.  We first drove to their home, and then went to dinner at Crabby Patti’s – a local seafood restaurant owned by a former fisherwoman from Long Island Sound.  We were hoping to meet her, but she was not in the restaurant that night.   After dinner we went back to the Griswold house for continued conversation about their cats and politics.  Eventually, it was time to leave and we headed back to the boat for the night, happy that the wind had finally subsided.

Crabby Patty’s

New Bern, NC (Friday, 4/26)
Today was the last work day for Mark at the client site, and he headed off to their plant like the other days this week. Denise spent most of the day on conference calls with a client and with software reps; she also got some much needed reading done.

During the day, we had intermittent rain showers; a bit in the morning and then again in the early afternoon.  But in late afternoon the wind picked up a great deal and Denise had to take the canvas awning off the back of the boat; it was acting like a sail and bouncing the boat around. The evening forecast looked awful, with a big storm coming.  So, when Mark came in from the client site, we opted for a “to-go” dinner from Outback since it was located right over the bridge. Mark ventured out and for the pickup and arrived back just in the nick of time. The storm came up and had us under a brief tornado warning, but it passed quickly. Afterwards there was a noticeable drop in temperature and we no longer needed the AC on in the boat.  Time to once again break out the blankets to sleep tonight.

Friday night storm

New Bern, NC (Saturday, 4/27) Normally we would have left New Bern and headed back on our adventure north. However, we had to consider where would be the best place to go to church this weekend.  Given the limited offerings until we get to Norfolk, we decided to stay in New Bern one more day and attend Saturday evening mass here. This would also afford us the opportunity to go to the grocery store and provision the boat for the week ahead.

To start off the day, Denise went for a run in nice cool 52 degree weather.  It was a great day for running and she was energized by the beauty along the Neuse River.

When she returned she talked Mark into going to the Farmer’s Market held here on Saturday.  It is small by comparison to Winter Park’s, but a few local growers, wineries, and artists had some interesting things to sell.

Outside Farmers Market

Art work at Farmers Market

Once back on the boat we took care of a few boat chores (cleaning windows, etc.), took showers and then ate lunch.  After lunch we walked to the downtown hardware store for a tool Mark was looking for to assist with removing a plumbing fitting; just in case we need to do that again. They didn’t have it so we put Tractor Supply on our places to go to in the afternoon, and before the rental car had to be returned.  We also made a run to Publix for some weekly groceries.  Most likely this will be our last Publix shopping experience until October when we are back in the south. Even Publix here in New Bern has a bear in front of their store.

Publix Bear

In the evening we went to mass at St. Paul’s for 5 pm mass, then we returned the rental car back to the airport.

St Pauls Catholic Church

St Pauls Catholic Church

From thee we got an Uber to take us back to downtown New Bern for dinner at Captain Ratty’s.  Although we were not originally planning to eat here, when Denise learned it was owned by the Aunt and Uncle of one of her Marathonfest running buddies, we knew we had to go.  We had a chance to meet Debra and eat a terrific meal with great service.  We then walked back the boat and got it ready for tomorrow’s departure, stowing all that was not necessary as we had an early departure and a long day planned.

Captain Ratty’s

With Debra at Captain Ratty’s

Captain Ratty’s Building

Sculpture appears to be a big thing here in New Bern. In addition to the decorative bears that are all throughout town, there are lots of other pieces of art. Here are some other photos:

Art sculptures in town

Spider Lily Sculpture near Convention Center

Art sculptures at Airport

Art sculpture at airport – paper airplane with pencils

New Bern, NC (Easter Sunday, 4/21)
Who would have guessed that with the wind blowing so hard last night, we would have woken up to a much calmer marina.  It was like someone turned off a switch and the wind died. Mother Nature really is truly remarkable.

Denise got up and published the last blog while Mark got to sleep in a little longer.  She saw our friends on “Seabird” off and wished them luck in the travels back to Connecticut. We hope to catch up with them on our way through the Long Island Sound area in the fall.

Before leaving Beaufort, Mark decided we should top off our fuel and the best price around was at our marina.  This should give us enough fuel to get all the way to Top Rack Marina near Norfolk; a known spot for buying good cheap fuel.  Because of the holiday the fuel dock would not open until 9:00, so we left our slip and tied up there until owner Tony was available.  While fueling, we had a chance to learn a little bit more about him. He used to have fishing boats here in Beaufort and in St. Augustine, but the industry had changed and he got out of that business.  We also got to meet Roy, his employee who was responsible for washing the bird poop off the docks every morning, as well as other chores. Not all marinas do this and we are so grateful that this marina does. We told Tony that we really liked this place, and would be coming back to stay again in the fall.

Tony Frost (owner)

Roy – works hard at marina

Mark went with Tony back to the marina office to pay the fuel bill. While waiting Denise got the boat ready to go, including turning on the engine to get it warmed up.  This must have been a signal for “Ms. Darlene” to exit her slip, thinking we were leaving immediately.  But, Mark was still not back and so “Ms. Darlene” had to wait in the narrow channel by the fuel dock.  The captain was really cool about it, but had to do some fancy maneuvering when another fishing boat came up behind him and needed to go through the narrow channel. He managed to pull into the slip next to the fuel dock while waiting for the other boat to go by.

Ms. Darlene – waiting on fuel dock

Meanwhile Mark showed up and in 5 minutes we were off the dock and underway. We headed out of the marina and up the ICW through Core Creek.  We passed along familiar sites of the True World Marine Boatworks, Beaufort Marine Center, and Jarrett Bay Boatworks; a fuel stop we usually use, but not so cheap anymore.  There were several derelict boats in the area and like FL, we cannot understand why these have not been salvaged or hauled out of the waterway yet.

Derelict Boat in Core Creek

Another derelict boat in Core Creek

Continuing north we went under the Core Creek Bridge and along what eventually becomes Adams Creek.  We both were amazed at how much development there had been in this area in the last two years.  It seems like where there is water, people build houses and docks; sometimes the toys are worth more than the structures on land.

Boat and home along Core Creek

Helicopter commuter on Adams Creek

Soon the houses gave way to more rustic surrounds, and the river opens up wide with little coves on either side. We anchored in one of these coves in 2017 while waiting on the wind to die down before crossing the Neuse River. There are some houses along the shore, but they are not near as close together as before.

The ICW turns rustic again

Adams Creek opens up

We turned left and headed up the Neuse River (the ICW actually goes right). Even with the little bit of wind on our nose, it was a cool but spectacular day to be on the water.  We definitely made the right decision to stay the extra day in Beaufort.

Intersection with the Neuse River

It is 20 miles off the ICW up the Neuse River to reach New Bern, NC, and so for us it was a nice hour of great cruising.  We cruised past the Pine Creek Recreation Area and MCAS Cherry Point, totally enjoying the beauty of being on the water.

Great Day on the Neuse River

Having stayed in the New Bern Grand Marina in 2017, we were looking forward to coming back. We were happy to be back in this town as it is quaint, but with a rental car it give us access to conveniences and places we often miss when cruising: Publix, Walmart, etc.  This area was almost destroyed when Hurricane Florence came through in September of 2017 and you can check out a video about it here. However, we had read an update on Active Captain from December of 2018 with rave reviews and heard it was operating again.  Denise was looking forward to the pool and gym access of the nearby Doubletree hotel.

Since we had received our slip assignment in advance, we went under the New Bern (US 17) and Alfred Cunningham (US 70) Bridges and easily navigated to our slip.

We tied up the boat with a little assistance as no one from the marina office replied to our VHF calls on the radio.  This did not concern us as the same thing happened when we were here before.

After tying up and settling the boat, we were met by a local woman who is a live-aboard. She advised us that the Doubletree was closed, the restroom and laundry facilities were not available, and the marina office was temporarily relocated to a small building about 2 blocks away.  We secured the gate access code and the WiFi password from another live-a-board boater and then walked up to check in at the relocated marina office.  We found a sign on the door that said that they were closed for Easter! Could they have not told us this in advance in the email when they confirmed our reservation and gave us the slip assignment?

Temporary Marina Office

Marina office closed on Easter

We were not happy about this and Denise tried to come up with alternative plans, including leaving and going to Oriental, NC.  But every alternative we considered left us with not being able to meet certain requirements, including access to a rental car for Mark and a place to go to church next Saturday evening.  We walked back to the boat by way of the Doubletree and could see evidence of the renovations, but also some of the destruction from the hurricane.

Damage to the Doubletree

Once back on the boat, we requested an Uber and took it to the New Bern airport to get Mark the rental car he would need to drive to and from his client all week.  It was like having freedom!  We stopped at Walmart to pick up some things that we were unable to get in Charleston, and went back to the boat.

When we stay at a marina more than one night, we really settle in as if we were staying forever, including connecting to cable tv (if available). We have become so used to streaming via WIFI that we almost forget to ask if it is available as few marinas are offering it as they beef up their WIFI. However, this benefit is one of the items that is still as advertised at this marina, so we hooked up our cable and watched real TV for first time in two weeks. Denise is excited about having the Hallmark Channel for the next 6 nights.

Our Easter dinner was uneventful; we ended up cooking chicken fajitas.  In the middle of dinner preparation, we were visited by a couple of Loopers. Paul and Caryn Frink (“Seeker”) saw our Gold Looper burgee and stopped to say hello.  They completed the Loop in 2017 and want to do the Down East Loop. They went to Maine in 2018, but only as far as Portland before it got too late in the season and they headed south.  They have been here in New Bern since November and will be leaving at the end of the week. They told us about “Taco Tuesdays” – an event for anyone in the marina at a local restaurant, as well as a breakfast on Thursday mornings.  We may attend the Tuesday evening event, but only if Mark gets done at the client site in time.

After they left, we ate our dinner, did some measuring for an upcoming boat project, (Denise) worked on the blog and (Mark) watched an episode of Game of Thrones before calling it a day.

Tomorrow Mark will drive to the client site and Denise will work from the boat; starting off with a 9:00 am conference call. When time permits there is the “honey-do” list, which will include retrieving a package from the marina office that was (hopefully) delivered in advance of our arrival.

We hope this Easter (or Passover) holiday was good for you, and that the coming year brings you joy and peace.

Other pictures from today:

IO at New Bern Grand Marina

Doubletree closed for renovation

House on south shore of Neuse River

Stay tuned for more adventures on Island Office.